Developing To Control Contrast With B&W Film

Thanks Chris - yes, I think yours actually gets closer to the tones of the walls, which are weathered to a much darker tone than the original granite. It does go to show how controlling for details influences results, but I was concentrating on the 25 pounder guns and how the highlight control perfectly captured the reflectivity of the matt paint on them, so didn't want to take their tones down. This enthusiasm I entirely trace to a grandfather in the Royal Artillery!

Digression aside, I think this technique is absolutely ideal for numerous things I want to photograph here and all I know want for this one is some more interesting sky, and some summer sidelighting to pick out more details. Thanks for sharing!

Charles,

I'm glad you found it useful. What you would do in cases like yours where tonal adjustments needed to make the the overall photo look good end up making some part of the photo, like the artillery piece in your photo, is to dodge or burn the area that ends up too dark or too light.

The best way to do that is with curves adjustment layers. Here's a tutorial I wrote a couple yrs ago on how to do that.

https://crawfordphotoschool.com/digital/dodge-burn.php

I think the next thing I post will be a tutorial on what, exactly, I do to increase tonal separation in black and white scans. I'll try to have that done in a few days.
 
Exceptionally useful Chris - thank you!. Now is definitely the time to be learning about scanning, as the local darkroom I was using to print is now shut pro-tem.
 
Well, I guess we differ, I find your images a little too contrasty especially the one you redid of mine, but that is individual taste.

It is an interesting pair of images for sure. Your original has that California light that I remember but does look a bit bright where I don't expect it to be (like the bushes on the right). Then Chris's editing was heavy, like he plucked the building out of the California soil and dropped it in Fort Wayne. His bushes on the right are closer to what my eye expects, but the rest of the image isn't.

In this case perhaps another approach would be selective burning to balance the image without removing the light that identifies place? It's subjective and there are lots of ways to skin a cat. :)
 
Would monitor gamma differences be a factor? I don't know, just wondering.
 
It is an interesting pair of images for sure. Your original has that California light that I remember but does look a bit bright where I don't expect it to be (like the bushes on the right). Then Chris's editing was heavy, like he plucked the building out of the California soil and dropped it in Fort Wayne. His bushes on the right are closer to what my eye expects, but the rest of the image isn't.

In this case perhaps another approach would be selective burning to balance the image without removing the light that identifies place? It's subjective and there are lots of ways to skin a cat. :)

I actually put that one up to show what can happen in California. It was worse when I lived it Panama' which is 9 degrees North of the equator. It wasn't because it was a typical shot of mine: just over exposed.
 
I actually put that one up to show what can happen in California. It was worse when I lived it Panama' which is 9 degrees North of the equator. It wasn't because it was a typical shot of mine: just over exposed.

Yeah I can see on your Flickr that this type of shot is not your norm. Your negative of that church did seem to capture all the light though, which was a lot.

Anyway I recall reading Robert Adams talking about the bright, high altitude Colorado light and the challenges of depicting it the way he wanted to. The light is just different there, as it is in California. His series of white churches was probably a bear to print in the darkroom but many of them do seem to capture the particular light of Colorado "correctly" to my eye, whatever that means.
 
Yeah I can see on your Flickr that this type of shot is not your norm. Your negative of that church did seem to capture all the light though, which was a lot.

Anyway I recall reading Robert Adams talking about the bright, high altitude Colorado light and the challenges of depicting it the way he wanted to. The light is just different there, as it is in California. His series of white churches was probably a bear to print in the darkroom but many of them do seem to capture the particular light of Colorado "correctly" to my eye, whatever that means.

Try Panama' at noon any day with TriX. There is a Greek church in Santa Barbara the it completely white (like the one I put up). I was finally there on an overcast day so drove over and finally got a decent picture of it.
 
Try Panama' at noon any day with TriX. There is a Greek church in Santa Barbara the it completely white (like the one I put up). I was finally there on an overcast day so drove over and finally got a decent picture of it.

I understand this well - I tried to take a photo of Iglesia de Natá de los Caballeros in Nata in 2013. White on bright. Nightmare stuff.

Marty
 
.........<snip>
. One thing I did work out was that TMax or Delta films needed a LOT less change in development to get the same effect as cubic grain films like Tri-X or Neopan 400, which still was extant then. A 10-15% change in developing time with TMY (original) gave me similar results to a 30% change with Tri-X

....... searching for a one-camera solution I discovered that, particularly with medium speed cubic grain 35mm film, if you are exposing rolls of film under different kinds of light and scene contrast, there is a way to get better results, even if they are not perfect. I used my established normal development time, and varied the EI to compensate for the type of light. EI200 for normal, 100 for contrasty and 400 for flat. These negs did not print as well as the negs from the three camera system, but they were fairly good. So, yes, you can vary the EI and keep the development time and you'll get better negs than if you just shoot everything at one EI..........<snip>

Marty

Many thanks for this, Marty. Never occurred to me exactly like that; will give it a try, easier than carrying a 4x5 around everywhere and making notes.:)
 
Many thanks for this, Marty. Never occurred to me exactly like that; will give it a try, easier than carrying a 4x5 around everywhere and making notes.:)

It’s a not much of a system, but it works, and if you have a good film-developer combination, it works great. Understanding the quality of the light - contrasty, flat or inbetween, is important. In 2005 I used it in Russia: http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/freakscene/Russia/ with Neopan 400 in Xtol 1+3, all shot with a Leica M7 and f1 Noctilux.

Just try it, maybe you’ll like it, maybe not.

Marty
 
Marty, would you still vary the EI like that if you used a spot meter for the shadows or is this an incident and wide-area-metering technique? The latter would make a lot of sense to me, but I'd think that metering the shadows leads to more or less the same result anyway.
 
This is not a zone system

This is not a zone system

Marty, would you still vary the EI like that if you used a spot meter for the shadows or is this an incident and wide-area-metering technique? The latter would make a lot of sense to me, but I'd think that metering the shadows leads to more or less the same result anyway.

This not-a-system-system is not based on a zone type approach. Your reflected shadow readings work the same as a centre weighted or blob meter (I am very fond of the light meter in Leica M6, M7 and MP, but it is a blob, not a spot) in this approach. You change your EI based on the quality of the light rather than your meter reading - this is the part that it is hard to get zonies to accept. The actual reading isn't that important as long as you meter consistently. Once you can do that, you vary the EI based on the quality of the light - contrasty, normal or flat. So if you have a spot meter you can work out the difference between the shadows and highlights and figure out how many stops/zones/whatever you are dealing with until you get a handle on what contrasty, normal and flat look like, then you don't need to worry so much. What might vary depending on where you meter is what EIs you choose. You may end up with completely different EIs for your metering, camera, development etc. But the EI changes in response to the quality of the light, not one meter reading.

I mostly work on the principle that perfect is the enemy of adequate.

'Konstatin I' plus 'Pavel and Olga I' on the same roll; very nice. I liked the whole show.

Thank you, I'm glad you liked them. Those two do show what you can do. During this trip I tried, unsuccessfully, to meet Grigori Perelman https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grigori_Perelman - I later walked past him on the street while my camera was in its bag and didn't get a photo. The one that got away. I have hundreds more I should edit and post one day.

I really enjoy the memories of this afternoon.

Pavel_with_Bychowsky_portrait.jpg


Marty
 
Marty, what I mean is that if you meter for the shadows in a contrasty situation, you might easily end up exposing two stops more than "blob" metering anyway. A typical scene with lots of direct sun, blob meter gives LV 14 or 15, but if I meter some small, but important shadows, I often get LV 12 or 13 for my exposure (I.e. after placing it in the desired zone). In your "not a" system, you don't give two stops on top of that "because it's a contrasty scene", right? You just add the two stops to the blob meter reading to arrive at an exposure that metering the shadows would also give, right?
 
A problem is that often on one roll there are different shots: shots with a higher contrast and shots with a lower contrast. The point is that the photographer must use one developer, one temperature and one developing time for all these different types of pictures on a roll.

So the photographer can in fact only make a difference in the contrast of a picture when printing (or scanning), not when developing the film.

Erik.

Difficult lighting situation:

49827956362_2a2aab575f_b.jpg
 
Marty, what I mean is that if you meter for the shadows in a contrasty situation, you might easily end up exposing two stops more than "blob" metering anyway. A typical scene with lots of direct sun, blob meter gives LV 14 or 15, but if I meter some small, but important shadows, I often get LV 12 or 13 for my exposure (I.e. after placing it in the desired zone). In your "not a" system, you don't give two stops on top of that "because it's a contrasty scene", right? You just add the two stops to the blob meter reading to arrive at an exposure that metering the shadows would also give, right?

You are overthinking it. If the shadows are the shadows, they should give you a roughly equivalent reading between different types of light. So if you always meter the shadows, use trials to decide on an EI for shadow readings for contrasty, normal and flat light, probably using a ring-around, and go from there. What the EIs are is up to you, 100, 200 and 400 is just where I ended up with my meter, cameras, film and development. And you vary them based on contrast, not on your light meter, unless you spend time taking multiple light meter readings to figure out a contrast range. And if you have time to do that, the not a system system probably isn’t for you anyway.

Marty
 
A problem is that often on one roll there are different shots: shots with a higher contrast and shots with a lower contrast. The point is that the photographer must use one developer, one temperature and one developing time for all these different types of pictures on a roll.

So the photographer can in fact only make a difference in the contrast of a picture when printing (or scanning), not when developing the film.

Erik.

Difficult lighting situation:
49827956362_2a2aab575f_b.jpg

That’s nice Erik. You have a lot of choice about exposure, even if you can’t change the development.

Marty
 
I see a couple of ways to solve the issues shown in the photograph here.

For me, I try to figure this kind of stuff out before I make the photo.

At any rate, it’s just the way I see it. Maybe different than some.
 
This not-a-system-system is not based on a zone type approach. Your reflected shadow readings work the same as a centre weighted or blob meter (I am very fond of the light meter in Leica M6, M7 and MP, but it is a blob, not a spot) in this approach. You change your EI based on the quality of the light rather than your meter reading - this is the part that it is hard to get zonies to accept. The actual reading isn't that important as long as you meter consistently. Once you can do that, you vary the EI based on the quality of the light - contrasty, normal or flat. So if you have a spot meter you can work out the difference between the shadows and highlights and figure out how many stops/zones/whatever you are dealing with until you get a handle on what contrasty, normal and flat look like, then you don't need to worry so much. What might vary depending on where you meter is what EIs you choose. You may end up with completely different EIs for your metering, camera, development etc. But the EI changes in response to the quality of the light, not one meter reading.

I mostly work on the principle that perfect is the enemy of adequate.

Thank you, I'm glad you liked them. Those two do show what you can do. During this trip I tried, unsuccessfully, to meet Grigori Perelman https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grigori_Perelman - I later walked past him on the street while my camera was in its bag and didn't get a photo. The one that got away. I have hundreds more I should edit and post one day.

I really enjoy the memories of this afternoon.

Pavel_with_Bychowsky_portrait.jpg


Marty

You missed a modern 'soul conjecture' brain. I would have liked to take photo of him.
 
That’s nice Erik. You have a lot of choice about exposure, even if you can’t change the development.

Marty

Thank you, Marty, in cases like this I have no time to think about exposure or composition, I just shoot without thinking. Sometimes then the shot comes out better than expected.

Erik.
 
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