Your thoughts on Nikkor 50/1.8 AI-S Japanese pancake version

Thank you for the kind words, @hellojamin, and welcome to the forum!

All my B&W photos are home developed and digitized using an old Sony NEX-5T digital camera. I use a Voigtlander VM-E close focus adapter on a Leica BEOON copy stand, with an EL-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 enlarging lens, and a Huion L4S light pad from Amazon. For 120 film, I take two (or three for 6x7) overlapping frames, and merge them in Lightroom using the "Panorama Merge" function. I hope that helps!
Thank you for the warm welcome and the detailed technical info!
 
Thank you for the kind words, @hellojamin, and welcome to the forum!

All my B&W photos are home developed and digitized using an old Sony NEX-5T digital camera. I use a Voigtlander VM-E close focus adapter on a Leica BEOON copy stand, with an EL-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 enlarging lens, and a Huion L4S light pad from Amazon. For 120 film, I take two (or three for 6x7) overlapping frames, and merge them in Lightroom using the "Panorama Merge" function. I hope that helps!
How do you assure that your sensor is parallel to the image? Is there some sort of register, or do you like things up by eye?
 
How do you assure that your sensor is parallel to the image? Is there some sort of register, or do you like things up by eye?
The BEOON is designed for copying film and is a fixed copy stand with a height adjustment for focus and subject size. The camera and lens mounts are held parallel to the lens plane unless it is bent.


IMG_5621.jpeg
 
How do you assure that your sensor is parallel to the image? Is there some sort of register, or do you like things up by eye?
I use a similar method with a copy stand modified with an adjustable tripod head. You can use a level at various points on the camera (hot shoe, back of body), but the best way to ensure square-ness is to use a mirror in the focal plane and center the lens within the mirror (by eye). There are a few YouTube videos that describe it better than I just did...but it really works.
 
Make sure spacer has flat and parallel faces;)
Also, why the mirror method is better, in my opinion. It doesn’t matter how flat the back of your camera (or spacers) might be. Additionally, by putting the mirror in the focal plane on on your negative holder you square the camera to the negative rather than just making the camera level and forgetting to consider the level-ness of your copy stand base and negative holder.

I say this based on my personal experience. I used a bubble level on the back of camera for years and struggled to get consistently flat/level scans.
 
Make sure spacer has flat and parallel faces;)

I honestly didn't think I needed to say that, but your experience of the forum members is greater than mine.

As regards the levelness of the copy stand you can of course use a bubble level on that, it is not exclusive to the back of the camera. Indeed it doesn't even need to be the back of the camera, it could be the lens mount if you take the lens off, or up against the filter ring. Unless you are using F/1.4 as your aperture for copying you don't need lasers to align the camera.
 
I honestly didn't think I needed to say that, but your experience of the forum members is greater than mine.

As regards the levelness of the copy stand you can of course use a bubble level on that, it is not exclusive to the back of the camera. Indeed it doesn't even need to be the back of the camera, it could be the lens mount if you take the lens off, or up against the filter ring. Unless you are using F/1.4 as your aperture for copying you don't need lasers to align the camera.
Sorry, it was light humour rather than a comment on our members! We have a fabulously able peer group here.

One observation though is that the sensor may not be parallel to the back of the camera or screen. I use the mirror method for that reason and usually use g5.6 or 8 for digitising.
 
How do you assure that your sensor is parallel to the image? Is there some sort of register, or do you like things up by eye?
@Benjamin Marks, as @Freakscene mentioned the Leica BEOON is an adjustable stand designed for copying. For some reason, the photo Marty posted has two "B" extension tubes. The center column is a threaded helicoid and very easy to adjust. I learned about the BEOON from this thread here on the forum:

In any case, back to the topic of this thread! ;) I think the photo below shows the lens' strengths and weaknesses. On the positive side, the 0.45m minimum focus distance allows for close up tabletop photos. On the negative side, the lens is a bit soft wide open at f/1.8.

Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.


2023.11.24 Roll #344-08406-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
 
@Benjamin Marks, as @Freakscene mentioned the Leica BEOON is an adjustable stand designed for copying. For some reason, the photo Marty posted has two "B" extension tubes. The center column is a threaded helicoid and very easy to adjust. I learned about the BEOON from this thread here on the forum:

Hmmm, yes, indeed. Two B tubes. I have a box of BEOONs and accessories. When I set these up I guess I grabbed two Bs instead of an A and a B. I think it was from when I put one up for sale a while ago.

Marty
 
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