Praise for the Spotmatic

I only wish the Spotmatics used a more easily obtainable battery. I know about the Wein replacement, but hearing aid batteries aren't really that viable for me. (I may get one, just to figure out what watch battery can fit instead!) The 394 battery is a good option but you have to look around for it, but you need to use a proper spacer, which I have, fortunately.
The Spotmatic's original battery, marked V400PX was 1.35v Mercury same as the PX625, banned for environmental reasons. But the Spotmatic doesn't require an exact 1.35v as it has a "bridge" circuit and will work fine with the 1.55v Alkaline and 1.6v Silver cells. S625PX 1.55v
 
I only wish the Spotmatics used a more easily obtainable battery. I know about the Wein replacement, but hearing aid batteries aren't really that viable for me. (I may get one, just to figure out what watch battery can fit instead!) The 394 battery is a good option but you have to look around for it, but you need to use a proper spacer, which I have, fortunately.
That's why I like my SL. Also, if you're buying a meterless camera, no worries about potential corrosion in the battery compartment.
 
I only wish the Spotmatics used a more easily obtainable battery. I know about the Wein replacement, but hearing aid batteries aren't really that viable for me. (I may get one, just to figure out what watch battery can fit instead!) The 394 battery is a good option but you have to look around for it, but you need to use a proper spacer, which I have, fortunately.
While there is a lot of nitpicking about the spotmatic and the silver-ox batteries, a lot of experienced users (Spotmatic UserGroup) have shown beyond doubt that without adjustment 394s (AG-9) and 392/384 work fine. They last a long time (2-4yrs) so having a spare is not that hard.

I've got a few SPotties over the years and alwaysu the main prblem is opening the battery compartment.
Vinegar (overnight) works in most cases, sometimes PB-Blaster and heat treatments are needed. After that apply some vaseline or anti-seize to allow the next person to open it easily.
 
Yes, from Takumar - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

Asahi used Thorium oxide in the production of optical glass in several Super-Takumar, Super-Multi-Coated, and even in a few SMC-Takumars between 1964 and 1973. In these lenses usually only one element of this glass was used, either in front or in the back. The drawback is that thoriated glass tends to discolor over time, to a yellow-brown color which can be reversed by the action of photons (bright light) and UV light.[18] The discoloration also reduces the brightness of the lens, to the point that it might lose 1/2 to 3/2 stops. Many users have proven that exposing the yellowed lenses to sunlight for a few days, UV light or even a bright LED light will clear the lens element.

Notable lenses that have this kind of glass are: Super- and Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (7 element version), 20mm f/4.5, 35mm f/2, 55mm f/1.8, 55mm f/2 and 85mm f/1.8. Super Takumar 6x7 105mm f/2.4.

Fortunately most of the residual radiation is Alpha-type and is not dangerous and will not fog the film.[2] Studies carried out by the US Army show that glass attenuates alpha radiation and any residual will be absorbed in a surface layer of less than 100 micrometers. [19]
 
The Spotmatic's original battery, marked V400PX was 1.35v Mercury same as the PX625, banned for environmental reasons. But the Spotmatic doesn't require an exact 1.35v as it has a "bridge" circuit and will work fine with the 1.55v Alkaline and 1.6v Silver cells. S625PX 1.55v
The 625 (and for that matter 675/357) will not fit the battery compartment of the Spotmatic. The Spotmatic F, yes -- that will accept the 625s.
 
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Yes, from Takumar - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

Asahi used Thorium oxide in the production of optical glass in several Super-Takumar, Super-Multi-Coated, and even in a few SMC-Takumars between 1964 and 1973. In these lenses usually only one element of this glass was used, either in front or in the back. The drawback is that thoriated glass tends to discolor over time, to a yellow-brown color which can be reversed by the action of photons (bright light) and UV light.[18] The discoloration also reduces the brightness of the lens, to the point that it might lose 1/2 to 3/2 stops. Many users have proven that exposing the yellowed lenses to sunlight for a few days, UV light or even a bright LED light will clear the lens element.

Notable lenses that have this kind of glass are: Super- and Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (7 element version), 20mm f/4.5, 35mm f/2, 55mm f/1.8, 55mm f/2 and 85mm f/1.8. Super Takumar 6x7 105mm f/2.4.

Fortunately most of the residual radiation is Alpha-type and is not dangerous and will not fog the film.[2] Studies carried out by the US Army show that glass attenuates alpha radiation and any residual will be absorbed in a surface layer of less than 100 micrometers. [19]
Thank you!
 
While there is a lot of nitpicking about the spotmatic and the silver-ox batteries, a lot of experienced users (Spotmatic UserGroup) have shown beyond doubt that without adjustment 394s (AG-9) and 392/384 work fine. They last a long time (2-4yrs) so having a spare is not that hard.

I've got a few SPotties over the years and alwaysu the main prblem is opening the battery compartment.
Vinegar (overnight) works in most cases, sometimes PB-Blaster and heat treatments are needed. After that apply some vaseline or anti-seize to allow the next person to open it easily.
The battery compartment cover is definitely a shortcoming of these cameras -- shallow coin groove so that if there's some corrosion, you can really mangle the slot in trying to get it open. And so many of them have bubbling of the chrome finish, which indicates there has been some battery leakage.
 
In my experience, the solar UV rays take a loong time to work. I have a 50/1.4 ST "basking" at the moment, but I've found with Nikkors and Rokkors this takes months.
 
In my experience, the solar UV rays take a loong time to work. I have a 50/1.4 ST "basking" at the moment, but I've found with Nikkors and Rokkors this takes months.
Leaving a lens exposed to the sun can melt the helical lube and it migrates to the aperture leaves, causing sticky diaphragm blades in auto stop down lenses necessitating pro servicing the lens.
 
Leaving a lens exposed to the sun can melt the helical lube and it migrates to the aperture leaves, causing sticky diaphragm blades in auto stop down lenses necessitating pro servicing the lens.
Right -- I keep mine inside, in a sunny place (avoiding too much direct sun). So that may help explain why the process takes so long.
 
The main issues with the production of hot lenses revolved around health and safety issues with staff working in these facilities and safe disposal of old lenses.

Has anyone ever heard of thoriated eyepieces though? I am pretty sure I've read about it but I can't remember if they were put on cameras or microscopes.
 
In my experience, the solar UV rays take a loong time to work. I have a 50/1.4 ST "basking" at the moment, but I've found with Nikkors and Rokkors this takes months.
An IKEA LED lamp does the job as well... I was skeptical until I tried it.

PS the radiactivity is negligible, it was investigated in the 50s when the Aero-Ektars were first introduced.
 
The Pentax Spotmatic can use other battery. It only needs to fit. It has a 'bridge' circuit, so 1,35 0r 1,55 is OK. Not exact but sufficient.
The radio active was minimal! Not so with a certain 50mm f1.2! Placed in a box with a postcard paper, in dark. In a few weeks it had a black circle!
Sold it as scrap, telling buyer of my test! Finding working meter is a quest! My Leica meter cds from Metrawatt was toast in 2.5 years! The SP lasted much longer!
 
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