shawn
Mentor
In continuing the fun... one of the cool things about 3d printing is how easy it is to adapt or modify an existing project. For the Krakens I wanted an Arca plate on them, so I printed a small low profile plate and 'welded' it in place with a 3d Pen.
I prefer vertically hanging cameras, the Kraken's built in lugs are for a horizontal hang which is a little awkward given the width of the camera.
There is a small recess in the bottom of the camera on each side.
Quick time in Sketchup to model a wedge shaped strap lug to use that space...
All done!
Shawn
I prefer vertically hanging cameras, the Kraken's built in lugs are for a horizontal hang which is a little awkward given the width of the camera.
There is a small recess in the bottom of the camera on each side.
Quick time in Sketchup to model a wedge shaped strap lug to use that space...
All done!
Shawn
shawn
Mentor
Tried a Kodak Anastigmat Special 101mm f/4.5 of a dead Monitor 620 on another Kraken body. I have a couple of these so it is nice to get them back in use as they are good lenses. This makes an even more compact camera. Wasn't sure how well that lens would cover 6x12 but it actually works pretty well. Thought it would be fun to compare the 101mm vs the 105mm on a G617.
Both cameras with Fomapan 100 and scaled focused to roughly same place. (Feet vs meters). F8 on both and 1/60 on Fuji and 1/50 on Kraken. Differences in exposure are more likely from scanning/processing than the cameras themselves.
I changed position a little on this one...
These were only on the Kraken
Both cameras with Fomapan 100 and scaled focused to roughly same place. (Feet vs meters). F8 on both and 1/60 on Fuji and 1/50 on Kraken. Differences in exposure are more likely from scanning/processing than the cameras themselves.
I changed position a little on this one...
These were only on the Kraken
shawn
Mentor
I designed a few different pieces for the Kraken. A one piece back which fits a bit better and doesn't rattle, different film reminder, shutter boards, the third lug and the viewfinder adapter.
Based on how well those worked I took on a bit bigger project....
The Kraken 617
This is my first prototype. I've tweaked the design slightly more. Now it has 4 strap lugs for many different hanging points for straps. Haven't printed that version yet. The cone above is slightly too long so I'm in the middle of a shorter print. Should have that together tonight so that I can give it a try.
Shawn
Based on how well those worked I took on a bit bigger project....
The Kraken 617
This is my first prototype. I've tweaked the design slightly more. Now it has 4 strap lugs for many different hanging points for straps. Haven't printed that version yet. The cone above is slightly too long so I'm in the middle of a shorter print. Should have that together tonight so that I can give it a try.
Shawn
raid
Dad Photographer
Very nicely done, Shawn. A camera that is different.
shawn
Mentor
Thanks, I'm looking forward to shooting with it!
Shawn
Shawn
shawn
Mentor
Decided to change the design for 4 screws holding the lens cone on for a little extra security. This body also has 4 strap lug positions for a variety of strap positions. Lens is calibrated and can close focus to about 3'.
Shawn
Shawn
Vince Lupo
Untitled
Super job.
Larry H-L
Well-known
That looks great! Beautiful work.
shawn
Mentor
I have two rolls drying so scans soon.
I worked on the viewfinder a bit today. It is a Fuji VF-X21 which is a 21/28 viewfinder for the X70. Same basic viewfinder as the Ricoh GV-1 (different feet) and they are both probably from Voigtlander. Adorama has them on sale for $59 right now with free shipping.
Opened it up and it has a mask inside. With the mask removed it has pretty close to the same field of view as my 12mm Voigtlander viewfinder but need to move the eye around a little more to see everything. With the mask in place the view was actually fairly similar but more blurry.
Only problem is the front lens is curved and the mask is flat so the view gets a little narrower at the edges of the FOV.
I could widen the edges of the mask to compensate but not sure it is worth it.
Shawn
I worked on the viewfinder a bit today. It is a Fuji VF-X21 which is a 21/28 viewfinder for the X70. Same basic viewfinder as the Ricoh GV-1 (different feet) and they are both probably from Voigtlander. Adorama has them on sale for $59 right now with free shipping.
Opened it up and it has a mask inside. With the mask removed it has pretty close to the same field of view as my 12mm Voigtlander viewfinder but need to move the eye around a little more to see everything. With the mask in place the view was actually fairly similar but more blurry.
Only problem is the front lens is curved and the mask is flat so the view gets a little narrower at the edges of the FOV.
I could widen the edges of the mask to compensate but not sure it is worth it.
Shawn
lynnb
Mentor
Impressive, Sean. Well done, the results look excellent. Thanks for sharing this.
shawn
Mentor
First two rolls of Fomapan 100, HC-110 100:1 60minutes with 2 inversions at 30 minutes.
Shawn
shawn
Mentor
One more minor tweak after shooting this weekend. The finder doesn't have a lot of eye relief and its position on the body made viewing a little awkward. I modeled out a cold shoe adapter that raised the viewfinder and moved it back about 10mm. The finder is more comfortable to use now.
Shawn
Shawn
David Murphy
Mentor
I love this camera, but it's probably not all that fair to test it by shooting mostly into backlit scenarios. Most cameras and lenses are challenged in often unpredictable ways with that type of lighting. A hood may also be called for with your lens.
shawn
Mentor
I am loving the camera too.
The lens had a cheap UV filter on and no hood so kind of worse case on those shots with the sun either behind the scene or to the side. Was done somewhat on purpose as I wanted to see how it handled that situation. To cut down on internal reflections the inside of the lens cone is painted flat black along with the inside of the body leading to the film gate. Don't really see anything particularly weird for internal reflections so the paint looks like it worked.
I will try it with a hood but it will need to be a smallish hood considering the horizontal 86ish degree FOV.
Shawn
The lens had a cheap UV filter on and no hood so kind of worse case on those shots with the sun either behind the scene or to the side. Was done somewhat on purpose as I wanted to see how it handled that situation. To cut down on internal reflections the inside of the lens cone is painted flat black along with the inside of the body leading to the film gate. Don't really see anything particularly weird for internal reflections so the paint looks like it worked.
I will try it with a hood but it will need to be a smallish hood considering the horizontal 86ish degree FOV.
Shawn
shawn
Mentor
Modeled out a different viewfinder for the Kraken 617s. With no optics the eye position is important but after several iterations this turned out well. This is for a 90mm lens, I have a version for 135mm as well.
With my eye to the viewfinder the bubble is out of focus but I masked it down so that it is still pretty easy to tell when the camera is level by the bubble being visible or not.
Shawn
With my eye to the viewfinder the bubble is out of focus but I masked it down so that it is still pretty easy to tell when the camera is level by the bubble being visible or not.
Shawn
KenR
Well-known
Great job! Looks really nice. I’m jealous of your technical ability.
shawn
Mentor
Thanks, I have learned a lot working on these.
Just finished the camera the 135mm viewfinder was designed for...
This has a Calumet 135mm f/5.6 Caltar II-S lens which is a tiny lens. This camera weights 989 grams with the lens and viewfinder on it. Test roll is drying now but it looks like wide open it covers 617, which I wasn't expecting at all.
Shawn
Just finished the camera the 135mm viewfinder was designed for...
This has a Calumet 135mm f/5.6 Caltar II-S lens which is a tiny lens. This camera weights 989 grams with the lens and viewfinder on it. Test roll is drying now but it looks like wide open it covers 617, which I wasn't expecting at all.
Shawn
stephen mcateer
Newbie
shawn
Mentor
If you are new to 3d printing... first be ready to be frustrated. Kind of a steep learning curve to setting up/tweaking/fixing your machine and learning how it and the slicer all interact.
If you don't have a digital caliper get one. There are pretty decent ones on Amazon for around $25 and they are extremely helpful in setting up your first layer height. Print 25mmx25mmx0.28mm (first layer height) squares around your build plate and then use the caliper to measure each and adjust your build plate and/or Z axis offset (if you have auto bed leveling) until your squares are right about 0.28mm. This will save you an enormous amount of frustration later in first layer adhesion and such.
Spends lots of time on the mechanical setup of your machine. Get the gantry mechanically squared (not just forced in to position), adjust wheel tensions...etc...etc.
I wouldn't try printing the Kraken as one of your first pieces. Spend time with other objects as you get your machine setup and calibrated well. Do a couple of overhang tests to see what angle your machine print to before needing supports.
After all of that....
To print the Kraken as designed by Graham....
1) For all the small pieces print them with NO supports. It will make the grips and knobs much easier to deal with and will print fine without supports. Follow Grant's suggestions on what to print with 30% infill vs 100%. Use ESUN PLA+ in black.
2) If you can print to >45 degrees without support set your Slicer to what you can reliably do when you print the body and lens cone. I use 10% infill on supports.
3) It makes cleanup a bit more annoying but use an 8mm brim on all of the pieces. It helps everything stick and reduces warping on the big pieces.
4) I print at a 0.28 layer height for everything and that is a good trade off between print times and quality. Don't try and crank up print speed.. not worth it.
5) When you slice all of the pieces put the amount of material in the name of the gcode files and keep track of how much you use. When you put a new roll of PLA on subtract what you use and you will know how much is left... very handy when printing large pieces. If you use an Octoprint install Filament Manager and it will do this automatically for you.
6) For the film spacers scale them 98% in your slicer, will save you sanding time later. Ditto the rear door pegs and the inner piece of the rear viewfinder.
7) I print at 215 initial and 210 for the rest, build plate 65 iniital then 60. No cooling first layer and then slowly ramp up the cooling as the layers increase.
Hope this helps!
Shawn
If you don't have a digital caliper get one. There are pretty decent ones on Amazon for around $25 and they are extremely helpful in setting up your first layer height. Print 25mmx25mmx0.28mm (first layer height) squares around your build plate and then use the caliper to measure each and adjust your build plate and/or Z axis offset (if you have auto bed leveling) until your squares are right about 0.28mm. This will save you an enormous amount of frustration later in first layer adhesion and such.
Spends lots of time on the mechanical setup of your machine. Get the gantry mechanically squared (not just forced in to position), adjust wheel tensions...etc...etc.
I wouldn't try printing the Kraken as one of your first pieces. Spend time with other objects as you get your machine setup and calibrated well. Do a couple of overhang tests to see what angle your machine print to before needing supports.
After all of that....
To print the Kraken as designed by Graham....
1) For all the small pieces print them with NO supports. It will make the grips and knobs much easier to deal with and will print fine without supports. Follow Grant's suggestions on what to print with 30% infill vs 100%. Use ESUN PLA+ in black.
2) If you can print to >45 degrees without support set your Slicer to what you can reliably do when you print the body and lens cone. I use 10% infill on supports.
3) It makes cleanup a bit more annoying but use an 8mm brim on all of the pieces. It helps everything stick and reduces warping on the big pieces.
4) I print at a 0.28 layer height for everything and that is a good trade off between print times and quality. Don't try and crank up print speed.. not worth it.
5) When you slice all of the pieces put the amount of material in the name of the gcode files and keep track of how much you use. When you put a new roll of PLA on subtract what you use and you will know how much is left... very handy when printing large pieces. If you use an Octoprint install Filament Manager and it will do this automatically for you.
6) For the film spacers scale them 98% in your slicer, will save you sanding time later. Ditto the rear door pegs and the inner piece of the rear viewfinder.
7) I print at 215 initial and 210 for the rest, build plate 65 iniital then 60. No cooling first layer and then slowly ramp up the cooling as the layers increase.
Hope this helps!
Shawn
Ambro51
Collector/Photographer
It’s funny, I see all this 3D printer stuff and imagine how I’d build it from mahogany and brass! Great work, I’m surprised the focal plane is not curved.