Yashica 24 Anoraks only

mkvrnn

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WARNING. This thread is only of any interest to Yashica Anoraks. In fact it is probably only really of any interest to Arch Anorak paul52 in Australia.

So non-geeks and non-anoraks, please move along. Leave now, there's nothing for you here.

Hi Paul, good to see you again. Here's some Yashica 24 stuff to add to your database.

Don't ask why but I seem to have six of these, ranging in condition from horrible to perfect. The horrible one spent 20 years in a damp garden shed with only a Yashica E to keep it company. But don't worry, I'm looking after them both now. The perfect one is newly acquired, still boxed and looks like brand new.

One strange thing about the new one is that the serial number L6011154 dates it to the middle of the production run, probably 1966, but the original receipt / Photax guarantee is dated 23 April 1970, some years after production ceased. I suppose this reflects the fact that TLRs were firmly out of favour by the late 1960s.

Anyway Paul, here are the details which will interest you:-

Serial numbers L6010766, L6011154, L6011547, L7010057. L7091062, L7100381

All of them have the 120 film start marks as well as the 220 marks.

4 of them have the "Use 220 Film Only" label but the last one just says "Use 220 Film".

The other one has an exposure guide in place of the label, but it also is the only one with a silver pressure plate, so perhaps the camera back has been changed at some point?

They all have the 4 silver horizontal bars on the back face of the viewing hood, apart from L7100381 which has black bars.

The only other oddity is that L7091062 is badged as a Yasicamat 124, but it's definitely a Yashica 24. Rather strange!

And in case anybody besides Paul has got this far, thanks for reading. I just knew you would be fascinated!

Keep up the good work Paul.
 
The Yashica 24's accessory back for 120 film has a silver pressure plate, but it also has a sticker that says to use 120 film. The "ears" on the 120 pressure plate are also very slightly raised, about the thickness of backing paper.

Do the "ears" on your silver pressure plate look slightly different than on the black pressure plates? (Sorry for the word "ears" - there must be a better name for them, but what it is escapes me at the moment.)

And, yes, I admit to being a bit of an Anorak when it comes to these very fine cameras.
 
Hi Sid
Yes the sliver pressure plate does have slightly raised ears. I was wrong about the exposure guide though, it is a film speed conversion chart (ASA/DIN) in the space normally occupied by the film type label.
 
I used to own a Yashica 124 MAT G and loved it. I now own a Yashica EM that needs lots of help, but haven't been moved to tackle it.

But I don't ever remember hearing of a Yashica TLR referred to as Anorak. Can one of you enlighten me?
 
I had to look up the definition myself. It is British slang.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anorak_(slang)

There are not many Yashica 24 TLRs around, and paul52 in Australia has compiled quite a lot of information related to them. He has a thread in the TLR forum about the sticker for aligning the START marker with 120 film in the 24. It is just fun to know these obscure facts. Which makes him, and his cohorts, Anoraks (in a good way).
 
Mine: L 7060276; with start marks for both 220 and 120. Slow speeds are not good, but otherwise it's fully functioning. The case needs restitching, though.

I wonder how many of these were made -- Yashica's serial number system is a puzzlement, as I recall.
 
Mine: L 7060276; with start marks for both 220 and 120. Slow speeds are not good, but otherwise it's fully functioning. The case needs restitching, though.

I wonder how many of these were made -- Yashica's serial number system is a puzzlement, as I recall.

Four years ago (wow, time flies) I posted the picture below on Flickr. It has the most views of any picture in my photo stream, at 6,147 views. So, my guess is that there are several thousand Yashica 24 TLRs still in use.


Yashica24 Showing 120 Start arrow
by sreed2006, on Flickr
 
According to sources quoted on Paul's excellent website the total production of the Yashica 24 was 21,171 between November 1965 and November 1967. This compares with 573,362 for the 124G.

For those people who haven't come across Arch Anorak Paul's hugely impressive website, take a look at www.yashicatlr.com. The degree of detail is just astonishing.
 
on the subject of a serial number chaos:
I work at a company that produces multi-million machines (tools) for a certain very well defined industry.
Our machines have completely chaotic 4-digit numbers with a very well defined purpose: to not allow the customers (those few we have) know which machine they have and how many were there made before their machine is delivered :)
 
Four years ago (wow, time flies) I posted the picture below on Flickr. It has the most views of any picture in my photo stream, at 6,147 views. So, my guess is that there are several thousand Yashica 24 TLRs still in use.

i tnhink all the yuppies clicked on it to see why the heck you posted the pic - there must be a tiny nude girl on the pic, somewhere. Or a cat.
 
Okay, I hate reviving an old thread - but I just picked up a good-great condition Yashica 24 today. I have an ability to return it since I bought it at a camera store.

I can't figure out how to consistently release the shutter. It seems to only release sometimes (and only on 1/30th), but not to a specific number of CW cranks or. CCW winds. I've watched several Yashica 124 videos on how to operate but the 24 seems a little different. The 124s seem to release without film loaded, although I don't know where their spools are.

I do not yet have film loaded yet (just testing for shutter speed consistency) and only have the spool in the loaded film slot (and empty in receiving slot).

Hope someone can help with this random post on an obscure camera...
 
The shutter should fire regardless of whether there is film loaded, or whether there's an empty spool in the take-up (receiving) cavity. But in all cases you have to turn the crank clockwise a whole turn (even less should be OK) and then counterclockwise back to the stop at the 1:00 position. If it's not firing consistently that's a problem, and definitely it should fire at different speeds, depending on the speed setting.

Sadly, it sounds like you need to return it.
 
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