cboy
Well-known
Hi,
I acquired a Dp1s some time ago and noticed some banding on the top of my images. It happens north of iso 400. Is this normal? Any fix to this?. Its a shame as the raw images sooc is really beautiful and film like....😔
I acquired a Dp1s some time ago and noticed some banding on the top of my images. It happens north of iso 400. Is this normal? Any fix to this?. Its a shame as the raw images sooc is really beautiful and film like....😔
shawn
Mentor
Normal, the foveons are low ISO shooters. They get noisy and band really quickly as the ISO goes up. If you have to shoot high ISO you can do blue layer only monochrome and it will look much better than trying to make color work.
Shawn
Shawn
Larry H-L
Well-known
In my experience the early cameras work best at 50 or 100 ISO. The Merrills are a bit better and I'll venture to 400 with the Quattro if needed.
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
Also: shoot RAW. The more information you have, the less banding may occur, or at least you may be able to mitigate or offset it more in development.
I learned the hard way with the DP2M that shooting jpgs only (which I was persuaded to do by advocates here, and which made development in Lightroom easier) resulted in banding even at iso100 in certain conditions. One example, a coastal Pacific landscape late afternoon shot from a bluff 200 feet up, gave great detail for the beach and sea stacks, but the relatively clear sky banded though it was exposed well. The other that comes to mind was a high perspective of the Willamette River and East Portland blanketed in fog with buildings emerging, and Mount Hood faintly in the distance. I exposed for the fog and sky; the banding shows in the less exposed riverside buildings/cityscape. What I took from this, besides the mistaken relying on jpg resolution, is that the sensor didn’t like large areas with very different light values.
I rarely experience this when I let the Foveon sensor collect all the RAW. I no longer have a Dp1s, but I keep a DP3M, a DP2Q, and an SDQ with 3 lenses. Fabulous tools. I just wish I could have that first year or so with the DP2M back for RAW do-overs.
I learned the hard way with the DP2M that shooting jpgs only (which I was persuaded to do by advocates here, and which made development in Lightroom easier) resulted in banding even at iso100 in certain conditions. One example, a coastal Pacific landscape late afternoon shot from a bluff 200 feet up, gave great detail for the beach and sea stacks, but the relatively clear sky banded though it was exposed well. The other that comes to mind was a high perspective of the Willamette River and East Portland blanketed in fog with buildings emerging, and Mount Hood faintly in the distance. I exposed for the fog and sky; the banding shows in the less exposed riverside buildings/cityscape. What I took from this, besides the mistaken relying on jpg resolution, is that the sensor didn’t like large areas with very different light values.
I rarely experience this when I let the Foveon sensor collect all the RAW. I no longer have a Dp1s, but I keep a DP3M, a DP2Q, and an SDQ with 3 lenses. Fabulous tools. I just wish I could have that first year or so with the DP2M back for RAW do-overs.