Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I bought ACDSee Pro 6 for about ninety dollars from memory and it's all I use aside from SPP. It's realtively easy to learn (LR does my head in) and the interface is extremely good IMO. There's none of this import export bullsh!t it just opens whatever files/folders you want to work on.
I've been using their software for about ten years now and can't praise it enough for what it can do and how much it costs. I recently downloaded a trial version of capture one pro which I messed around with for about a day then went straight back to my favourite.
GaryLH
Mentor
One thing u could do is to download some raw files from the web.. Even if they are the small ones, at least u can play w/ them and c how the to create a work flow that would make sense to u before u buy a camera.
Here is a google search w/ some hits to same raw file downloads.
https://www.google.com/search?q=sigma+raw+file+download&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari
I think the hard part really is figuring out a work flow...once u decide that the foveon sensor is for u.
Gary
Here is a google search w/ some hits to same raw file downloads.
https://www.google.com/search?q=sigma+raw+file+download&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari
I think the hard part really is figuring out a work flow...once u decide that the foveon sensor is for u.
Gary
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
One of the things that drove me mad was the time SPP takes to open a raw image then move to the next when reviewing what you've shot ... and I didn't want to set the camera to shoot raw and jpeg. I seldom come home with more than forty images and once they're open in SPP I set it to batch create me a set of jpegs while I go off and make a coffee.
Foveon workflow is unusual!
GaryLH
Mentor
One of the things that drove me mad was the time SPP takes to open a raw image then move to the next when reviewing what you've shot ... and I didn't want to set the camera to shoot raw and jpeg. I seldom come home with more than forty images and once they're open in SPP I set it to batch create me a set of jpegs while I go off and make a coffee.
Foveon workflow is unusual!
Couldn't agree more. But I think people need to figure out some basics first before they start doing batch operations.
I find a lot of stuff can be run thru the batch processing engine, but there are some that need some tender care thru spp.
Gary
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Definitely ... once I've flitted through the jpegs to decide which are keepers I go back and deal with the selected raw files on an individual basis before converting them to 16 bit TIFFS.
Do we love our Sigmas or what!
(everybody cheer)
dfatty
Well-known
spp noise reduction and sharpness
spp noise reduction and sharpness
in processing some high iso (1600+) black and white using the blue channel method, i was surprised to find in converting some raws to tiffs, the tiffs were much less sharp than i was seeing in SPP.
after playing around a bit, it all came down to the noise reduction. by default the luminance and banding settings are in the middle, which was enough to greatly reduce the sharpness when converting to tiff. i'm aware that NR can reduce sharpness, but it was much more than i expected at the middle setting. setting NR to the lowest level brought back the sharpness. at the expense of noise of course.
i haven't figured out if this is specific to the blue channel files or if i'm doing something else wrong, but i haven't noticed this much loss of sharpness with color files. just thought i'd post in case someone else encounters this while processing and freaks out. it certainly freaked me out that the dp2m output suddenty looked ordinary, lol.
spp noise reduction and sharpness
in processing some high iso (1600+) black and white using the blue channel method, i was surprised to find in converting some raws to tiffs, the tiffs were much less sharp than i was seeing in SPP.
after playing around a bit, it all came down to the noise reduction. by default the luminance and banding settings are in the middle, which was enough to greatly reduce the sharpness when converting to tiff. i'm aware that NR can reduce sharpness, but it was much more than i expected at the middle setting. setting NR to the lowest level brought back the sharpness. at the expense of noise of course.
i haven't figured out if this is specific to the blue channel files or if i'm doing something else wrong, but i haven't noticed this much loss of sharpness with color files. just thought i'd post in case someone else encounters this while processing and freaks out. it certainly freaked me out that the dp2m output suddenty looked ordinary, lol.
Eric T
Well-known
Gary,
In my experience, the DP3m is the sharpest of the three DPxm cameras. But all of them are incredibly sharp. I try to always use a tripod with these cameras. Not so necessary with the SDIm and an image stabilized lens (as expected).
clear2000
Established
This link(google doc) may be helpful to anyone who is interested in the DP series.
A great overview and many useful tips. I have the DP2S and the DP2M, and I’m very pleased with these cameras.
https://docs.google.com/document/preview?id=12lKFwB3IVL0PSQlEkTul35D6rQ310urvjECTScdgyhw
A great overview and many useful tips. I have the DP2S and the DP2M, and I’m very pleased with these cameras.
https://docs.google.com/document/preview?id=12lKFwB3IVL0PSQlEkTul35D6rQ310urvjECTScdgyhw
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I export from SPP with noise reduction and banding at the minimum setting when using this method based on blue channel priority. The default setting is quite destructive to a file that doesn't need it IMO.
I noticed that 'saved settings' seem to ignore this area and automatically defaults back to the middle setting. (annoying)
GaryLH
Mentor
From 1600 on down I use minus 2 for both noise settings.. I also start using the blue channel starting at 1600 though. By 3200, I will starting using the noise settings at their default value.. It seems the longer the exposure time, the more u need to depend on the blue channel game once u get into 1600 and above.
Gary
Gary
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
When you use the loop you realise that the sensor actually produces quite a lot of noise at ISO 400. The difference when you use the blue channel even at this ISO is quite marked!
GaryLH
Mentor
I actually have not noticed significant noise at 400 when shooting b&w... color is a different issue.. i tend to use the default noise setting by 400 if i am shooting color. Guess I am not looking hard enough.
back on topic, b&w... But starting at 800 I do notice it. So far I have been ok w/ what I have seen when shooting b&w. I rather have more tonal quality.. And good sharpness and live w/ the noise. But by 1600, the noise is getting to me..
Gary
darya151
Established
Keith and Gary, thanks so much for your help and guidance! I am still wrestling with a purchase of a DP; your advice is sound, I am going to try the suggestions! For all the frustration some have voiced about the Sigma cameras, this forum has initiated experimentation, creativity, engagement with artistry and process, sharing resources.
Thanks for welcoming others in.
Darya
Thanks for welcoming others in.
Darya
mingkookoo
Well-known
Great thread, just watched the SPP video Thx guys for all the info, still need to go through them little by little.
Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.
Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?
http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camera/sun_g/sun6952512500643
It's around $95 USD, too much?
On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.
While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .
Thx
Thx guys for all the info, still need to go through them little by little.Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.
Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?
http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camera/sun_g/sun6952512500643
It's around $95 USD, too much?
On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.
While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .
Thx
GaryLH
Mentor
It looks like a variation on the real right stuff L bracket and grip that I use w/ my dp Merrill cameras. The main difference is the bottom plate on the rrs goes all the way across vs the half plate that is showing on the web page.
http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=BodySigmaDP&key=cat
I guess I would wonder about any imbalance related issues when u lay down the camera on a flat surface.
I find that for me these cameras are tooo light and I don't really want to completely change my shutter release technique. So I went w/ more mass to dampen the shutter release cycle. I also found that the rrs grip placed my finger at a better location for a bit softer release stroke. I would think the longer the lens the more this can become an issue.
Gary
http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=BodySigmaDP&key=cat
I guess I would wonder about any imbalance related issues when u lay down the camera on a flat surface.
I find that for me these cameras are tooo light and I don't really want to completely change my shutter release technique. So I went w/ more mass to dampen the shutter release cycle. I also found that the rrs grip placed my finger at a better location for a bit softer release stroke. I would think the longer the lens the more this can become an issue.
Gary
GaryLH
Mentor
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Great thread, just watched the SPP video
Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.
Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?
http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camera/sun_g/sun6952512500643
It's around $95 USD, too much?
On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.
While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .
Thx
It looks pretty good for the price IMO and probably worth a try ... if it doesn't work out I'll give you fifty dollars for it!
Composing with an LCD on a camera with this focal length is a recipe for disaster in poor light IMO and I use an accessory viewfinder so I can brace the camera against my head in situations where hand held is the only option. The finder I use is one of the old variable Leitz type that has parralax adjustment so I can get the framing extremely accurate with practise.
I have the overpowering desire to get out and use the DP3M today and it's raining cats and dogs!
mingkookoo
Well-known
@ Gary: Thx for your info. You are so right, the sigma is pretty light . If it is more hefty I'm sure it would make it more steady with the longer focal length.
The product looks very similar to the RRS's. By the way do you have a Pic of your merrills with the RRS setup?
thx
The product looks very similar to the RRS's. By the way do you have a Pic of your merrills with the RRS setup?
thx
GaryLH
Mentor
Sigma SD1m w/ 50f1.4 alongside my DP1m and DP2m
Gary
Gary
mingkookoo
Well-known
They look quite nice on the DpMerrills. At the moment I can't afford to get the RRS setup though
If someone decided to try the less expensive similar grip from Japan I would love to hear about their experience with it.
By the way Gary, lovely Foveon trio you have and thanks for the pic
If someone decided to try the less expensive similar grip from Japan I would love to hear about their experience with it.
By the way Gary, lovely Foveon trio you have and thanks for the pic