In-Camera RAW Processing

Quash, your post is somewhat confusing to me.

I am also a Nikon DSLR user (I have a D300), but I cannot recall seeing a comparable RAW-to-JPG conversion function in that camera. Yes, I can set image parameters for JPG file creation, but all these parameters are executed directly when shooting the pictures.

However, I would be very surprised if Nikon were to offer an in-camera RAW-to-JPG conversion function that could be applied to RAW files after shooting to create customized JPG copies of the original RAW files.

If I wanted to create modified copies of my existing RAW files, I would always have to perform this task in a subsequent work session on my computer, but not on my D300.

Is there something I have missed or misunderstood?

I think the capability of processing RAW files after the fact on the Fuji X100 is rather unique, and I have never seen a comparable feature in any other camera.
 
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The only thing I can see this being useful for would be if we could have a bunch of presets for RAW processing - kind of like a user set/uploadable film simulation mode - kind of like the presets in LR.

...

First let me say that I agree with all who say that PP in LR or PS (etc) will probably be better than the in-camera RAW > JPG conversion.

That said, let me tell you about the in-camera RAW > JPG conversion in the Pentax K20D. You can save an image file as RAW, RAW + JPG, or just JPG (discards the RAW file). For JPG, the camera offers six basic presets: Bright, Natural, Portrait, Landscape, Vibrant, and Monochrome. Within each of the first five, you can then refine the setting for the Saturation, Hue, Contrast, Sharpness and Fine Sharpness on a nine-point scale. For Monochrome of course there is no setting for saturation, but this is replaced with preset "Filters" that imitate the classic B&W filters: Green, Yellow, Orange, Red, Magenta, Blue, Cyan and Infra-red. So you see that there is an very extensive range of fine-tuning available to make your JPG files look just like you want, in camera.

Of course, this means you could spend a lot of time fiddling with settings, chasing a look, when you should be chasing decisive moments! To help with the setting up, the camera allows you to make another in-camera conversion from RAW to JPG after you've taken the photo, so you see the the effect of each of the JPG presets (and the various fine adjustments) on the same original RAW image file. You can save the conversion as a new JPG file, and you can do this with as many different combinations of settings as you like. For each new JPG (from RAW) you can also change the white balance, image pixel dimensions and compression, ISO (within limits), colour space and degree of noise reduction.

So you see that you actually have a very powerful RAW > JPG conversion program built in to the camera, albeit one with a very tiny monitor!

Why bother? I'd prefer to use Lightroom, but I'll admit that the in-camera conversion actually does a pretty good job, and when I'm shooting for later B&W conversion, it's nice to have the camera show me a low-contrast mono version of the file for feedback. Sometimes the in-camera JPG file is good enough (and I save all JPGs at the highest-quality settings with no compression).

Here's one from last Saturday - a "found" still-life. The first is straight from the camera; the second has had a slight adjustment to the tones and brightness (in Lightroom).


_IMG3589 by Another Chris, on Flickr


_IMG3589-2 by Another Chris, on Flickr

For in-camera conversions to mono, I think these are pretty good, and my own conversion from RAW in LR is little if any better. Those with more PP skills will do much better of course. These aren't tools you have to have in camera, or have to use all the time, but sometimes, and in some situations, they help.
 
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Hi Arjay,
Yes, the D90 has in-camera RAW to JPEG conversion after you take shots. And it works very well. Its's called "NEF (RAW) Processing.". Options are:

-Image Quality (Fine, Norm, Basic)
-Image Size (L,M,S)
-White Balance (all standard WB settings plus Kelvin scale) *
-Exposure Comp (+3/i3) *
-Set Picture Control (select any standard or customized picture control, which means all your customized tweaks can be used) *

* = watch image channge as you cycle through options but before you save to jpeg

Then, you can take the saved jpeg and crop, straighten, distortion control, etc.

Then, I protect file and Eye-Fi sends it to my computer or to any number of sites I want.

I read somewhere that working pros (I assume mostly journalists amd other pros on deadlines AND who remotely transfer pics quickly) were interested in this ability. Nikon D3s has it.
 
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