Help with new street photography setup

gzisis69

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Hello to the members, after a longer time with film photography i decided to add a digital camera to my collection. I like 50mm lens in ff and a viewfinder is not important. Size of the setup and weight is important. I dont have enough funds to get a full frame sigma fp with a 45mm so i compromise on sensor size. The ricoh 40mm would also be a good compromise but i dont particulary like 40mm and its crazy expensive to me. I want something to enjoy my photography with around 400-500 euros. The fujis are nice but also out of the range. That leaves me with the m43 format i quess. I checked there is a nice 25mm 1.8 olympus lens and i read it focuses quick. For a camera i thing i am between the epl-7 and the ep5. Which one would you choose ? Do you have any other interesting suggestions on that price range ? The feel of the camera on the hand, the autofocus are things i really find important to enjoy the process.
 
Hello to the members, after a longer time with film photography i decided to add a digital camera to my collection. I like 50mm lens in ff and a viewfinder is not important. Size of the setup and weight is important. I dont have enough funds to get a full frame sigma fp with a 45mm so i compromise on sensor size. The ricoh 40mm would also be a good compromise but i dont particulary like 40mm and its crazy expensive to me. I want something to enjoy my photography with around 400-500 euros. The fujis are nice but also out of the range. That leaves me with the m43 format i quess. I checked there is a nice 25mm 1.8 olympus lens and i read it focuses quick. For a camera i thing i am between the epl-7 and the ep5. Which one would you choose ? Do you have any other interesting suggestions on that price range ? The feel of the camera on the hand, the autofocus are things i really find important to enjoy the process.
The Olympus 25mm f1.8 is a super little lens, it lived on my Panasonic GM1 and was my primary street setup for a while. It also pairs well with other m43 bodies, like the Panasonic GH3, GH4, G9, GX85. Currently, I use it most often on the GX85, along with the Panasonic 9mm f1.7 and Olympus 17mm f1.8.

I don't think you'd go wrong either way with the EP5 or EPL7. The EPL7 is a touch lighter, has a slightly longer battery life, and EP5 has better stabilization. Both can use an EVF if you can find one. Both use Olympus' excellent face detection, which I find a bit better than Panasonic's.

The grip/feel of the GX85 is weirdly shaped and tires out my hand quickly, so I bought an aftermarket aluminium grip by JJC. This adds some weight and bulk to the camera, but it is worth it for handling. YMMV on how small/light you want the camera to be, but the GX85 with grip is my go-to for a walkaround street camera.

The Panasonic GM1 is annoyingly hard to find and expensive now. I'd recommend it if it didn't cost so much; it's the smallest and lightest m43 camera ever, and I've taken so many good and fun images with it. You barely even notice it's there. The only thing is the lack of IBIS, and maybe being a bit too small for some hands.



 
I did street photography on film for ten years. Started with 50mm, just because I didn't knew anything better.
Unfortunately, digital, AF are not the same...

AF of 50mm FOV by the screen of E-PL series...

If size and weight are important, skip M43 and get straight to the best ever digital cameras made for street photography:
You could try to get Ricoh GR for 400-500 Euros.
But I've got GRD original and III for under 400 Euros in total for both.
They are just right, plus CCD sensors which have filmish quirks.
And, yes, I had M43 prior to it.

GRD original has same BW status as Leica M8 for bw.
Yet, those are full size ergonomics cameras with size and weight less than typical mobile phone today.

If you need better quality with less weight, check Sony A7 original.
It opens direct use of film camera lenses you might have.
Non AF, I guess, but it is not a problem.
Just as with film.
 
Whatever camera you choose, it's important that it's lens matches the FL of your favorite lens so you can still reliably pre-visualize the frame. A manual exposure compensation dial - adjustable by feel - is also a good idea. You don't want to be distracted by having to look at your camera settings. I happen to like Fuji's because of their optical viewfinders but most digitals can mount auxiliary finders, they're faster than EVFs. No autofocus is faster that a pre-set, zone focused manual lens but be aware that if you are using legacy glass, 99% of the adapters out there are not precise enough to allow accurate scale focusing (Novoflex are, which is why they cost 10X more). With these conditions met, the only time you should ever need to raise the camera to your eye is the actual instant your make the exposure
 
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