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Rolleiflex 2.8C with aperture wheel sticky
Old 11-21-2015   #1
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Rolleiflex 2.8C with aperture wheel sticky

Q1: What could I do to make the apertute wheel moving smoother without having to open up the lens?
Q2: Who is a good person to take care of such a problem (only)? Paul Ebel? Essex Camera?

Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2015   #2
helvetica
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On my 3.5 that had a sticky whee, it was due to a gummed up gear mechanism under the whee & face plate. There was nothing wrong with the aperture of the shutter mechanism. My camera had impact damage which resulted in further excessive pressure on the aperture wheel, but once the face plate was replaced, the aperture worked like a charm.


All that to say - don't fret yet, it may not have anything to do with the lens-shutter-aperture assembly.
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Old 11-21-2015   #3
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I hope that the camera can be somehow adjusted for the sticky wheel.
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Old 11-21-2015   #4
Dan Daniel
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Yeah, it's almost always the len shroud mechanism and such, not the shutter block itself. But the chance of doing anything without opeing up the front is slim. You could try a drop of light oil at the back of the front dial and the lock slot, but I'd be surprised.

Contact Paul and see what he says. It's a tedious job to disassemble, clean, and re-align everythng, but it's doable.

Any obvious signs of bending or such on the shroud?
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Old 11-21-2015   #5
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I just bought the camera today online. I have not received it yet.
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Old 11-21-2015   #6
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Future camera problems are the best kind! How else are the mechanics in shape - or at least how well do you think they are before you can actually get a hold of it?
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Old 11-21-2015   #7
Sarcophilus Harrisii
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I suppose it is also possible the aperture blades are a bit gummed up due to the usual lubricant residue. But if this was the case the shutter speeds would almost certainly be off, too. So I think the previous explanations are more likely. But take a look, just in case.

I would probably remove the front cover to access the components and attend to it properly. If you're hoping for an easier fix, then, there will be no harm in feeding one small drop of lighter fluid into the underneath of the aperture wheel. This will get it to seep down the wheels shaft, and it may reach any areas of old lube and soften it. If the shutter wheel is behaving normally don't bother repeating this with that. Unlike other model Rolleis the aperture and shutter controls of the C are not cross-coupled at all. Whatever issue ails the setting wheel will be confined to the aperture system, not the speed control.

It is also worth making the point that the 2.8C model features the two chrome locking clips adjacent the setting wheels. Their slick surface makes it easy for the user to depress them slightly as their fingertips slide the setting wheels back and forth. But if the clips are not depressed then the wheel will be very stiff to turn as you need more force to overcome the ratchet. If someone is not aware of this, they might think the wheels are stiff, when, in fact, they're simply not operating it correctly.

I've heard the odd negative comment about the design of the 2.8C regarding the above. Personally it gives me no problems and I think it is infinitely preferable to the EV coupling other models have. And, once set, it's very hard to accidentally move the exposure settings. I like it a lot. If only the 2.8C had metal locking levers for the flash and shutter, it would be the perfect Rolleiflex, in my view. But peoples preferences vary.
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Old 11-22-2015   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helvetica View Post
Future camera problems are the best kind! How else are the mechanics in shape - or at least how well do you think they are before you can actually get a hold of it?
No, it is not about future problems here. The seller made it very clear in the ad that the aperture wheel "needs very strong thumbs" to move it.
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Old 11-22-2015   #9
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These are excellent points, Brett.

I was going to use lighter fluid the way you have described. It is good that in the 2.8C we have the control for the aperture and for the speed separate. The locking clips are a possibility too, as you have explained. I hope that such simple solutions will be sufficient.

Raid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarcophilus Harrisii View Post
I suppose it is also possible the aperture blades are a bit gummed up due to the usual lubricant residue. But if this was the case the shutter speeds would almost certainly be off, too. So I think the previous explanations are more likely. But take a look, just in case.

I would probably remove the front cover to access the components and attend to it properly. If you're hoping for an easier fix, then, there will be no harm in feeding one small drop of lighter fluid into the underneath of the aperture wheel. This will get it to seep down the wheels shaft, and it may reach any areas of old lube and soften it. If the shutter wheel is behaving normally don't bother repeating this with that. Unlike other model Rolleis the aperture and shutter controls of the C are not cross-coupled at all. Whatever issue ails the setting wheel will be confined to the aperture system, not the speed control.

It is also worth making the point that the 2.8C model features the two chrome locking clips adjacent the setting wheels. Their slick surface makes it easy for the user to depress them slightly as their fingertips slide the setting wheels back and forth. But if the clips are not depressed then the wheel will be very stiff to turn as you need more force to overcome the ratchet. If someone is not aware of this, they might think the wheels are stiff, when, in fact, they're simply not operating it correctly.

I've heard the odd negative comment about the design of the 2.8C regarding the above. Personally it gives me no problems and I think it is infinitely preferable to the EV coupling other models have. And, once set, it's very hard to accidentally move the exposure settings. I like it a lot. If only the 2.8C had metal locking levers for the flash and shutter, it would be the perfect Rolleiflex, in my view. But peoples preferences vary.
Cheers
Brett
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Old 11-23-2015   #10
Ron (Netherlands)
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Raid, first thing to get is the Rolleiflex TLR service and repair manual (it is available in pdf on the net). Your 2.8C is also covered and the manual can come out handy when disassembling the front cover. As with all Rolleflexes and -Cords you have to take off the leather coverings first. If they are very dry, they can tear up - to prevent that, I treat old leather first with some oil or grease, so the leather becomes softer and a little stronger. If you put the leather back on, never do that with super glue, but only with a glue that can be solved in water. Btw the old flexes are covered in real very thin leather.

Ron
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Old 11-23-2015   #11
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I second Brett's notice that the sliver clips (or "buttons") under the shutter and aperture wheels need to be pressed before the wheels turn freely. That has gotten me more than once - until I look and remember to press the buttons.
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Old 11-23-2015   #12
Sonny Sichtstein
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I bought my Rolleiflex MX-EVS Tessar off the big auction site. The seller had it advertised as "for parts or not working" because, he said, it would only focus to 8 ft and then it would stop.

It turned out he was looking at the small window above the viewing lens, and thought the f-stop "8" was the focusing distance. And because of the particular EV that was set, he couldn't get past "8."

There was nothing at all wrong with the camera operationally! He had, however, failed to mention a cosmetic issue that didn't clearly show in the pictures. I contacted the seller and explained the camera operated fine, but considering the cosmetic issue we called it even.

My hope for you is that the "problem" with your new 2.8C is really only operator error.

-mike
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Old 11-23-2015   #13
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Raid, Harry Fleenor made my ebay 2.8C Plannar sing.

http://www.rolleirepairs.com/cla.htm

He's one of if not the best.
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