BEOON the Leitz Copy Stand
Old 05-11-2015   #1
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
BEOON the Leitz Copy Stand

I just got this in the mail.



BEOON full kit including the box and original user manual. It looks pretty much mint/never used.

The idea was to use this with my Monochrom v1. Since the kit comes with a magnifier with focusing screen, you can grain check with non-live-view digital M. Of course if you have a camera with live view, you could do the grain check on LCD/EVF.

I also received a USB powered super thin light box for a little over $40 from Amazon.

I just followed the instruction, popped MM on, clicked, moved the neg, and clicked again. Once grain check is done, you can just tighten everything down and just click away.

Here is the quick result with a quick adjustments in LR. I used Summilux 50 ASPH as the copying lens because that's the only 50mm M-mount lens I currently have. I see mentions and pictures of people using 50/3.5 Elmar.


On the Platform by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr

I'm sure I can do better job with PP as I get a hang of it and I didn't optimize any room lighting situation (probably didn't do a good job as sun was just setting), but I'm quite happy with this $300 Leitz kit. A lot cleaner setup than cardboard mount and iPad lightbox I was running, and I just don't like conventional film scanning process with flatbed or dedicated film scanners. And I can keep the whole process monochrome with the Monochrom.

Anyone regularly using BEOON? Any tips you can share?
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-11-2015   #2
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Here is the basic setup.

__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-11-2015   #3
Emile de Leon
Registered User
 
Emile de Leon is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 601
I got a BEOON about 9 mos ago for the same purpose..to make digital copies of my negs from 35mm to 6x9..
But all I had was a GH1 and it only did 35mm on the BEOON..being micro 4/3..
So last week..I noticed Sony A7 prices came down to under 1K brand spankin new...so I bought one..to hook up with the BEOON w/adapter..
I haven't tried it yet..but I have a Leica 60mm R macro lens that should work just fine..
I'm pretty enthused about all of this..
Good luck with yours!
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-11-2015   #4
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Nice. Yeah, I'd probably get the A7 if I didn't have the MM.

Here is another snap from the same test batch.
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-11-2015   #5
Godfrey
somewhat colored
 
Godfrey's Avatar
 
Godfrey is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,881
It's a lovely piece, so nicely designed and refined. I tested mine on an old 645 color neg that I found fallen out of a box, using the Sony A7.


Don't remember who's dog it was, definitely someone related to the folks who owned the house I was living in back then.

I have plans for doing a lot more with it. :-)

G
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #6
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Godfrey,

Lovely photo. Your comment prompted me to scan some old negatives in the stash.

Here is one from France some years ago. The negative was developed with exhausted developer and very thin, but the combination of durable Tri-X (pushed to 1600 if I remember correctly) and MM at base ISO can rescue bad negatives quite well.

__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #7
gbealnz
Registered User
 
gbealnz is offline
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
Posts: 136
Me too, got one a while back. Wonderful olde worlde feel.
I use mine for scanning too, with an Apo Rodenstock 50mm enlarging lens.
Camera in my case is an old but dependable X-E1. Works well.
Gary.
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #8
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbealnz View Post
Me too, got one a while back. Wonderful olde worlde feel.
I use mine for scanning too, with an Apo Rodenstock 50mm enlarging lens.
Camera in my case is an old but dependable X-E1. Works well.
Gary.
I agree. Really great quality and feel. It still works smooth as silk after over 50 years. I do want to eventually mate it with a good taking lens. Probably better to have a modern, not so fast ones like Elmar-M 50 as modern digital camera sensors are quite demanding, but I kinda like the idea of something period correct lens like the screw mount Elmar 50/3.5.


My wife drawing a character from her book on the door.
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #9
Emile de Leon
Registered User
 
Emile de Leon is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 601
Just did some tests w/BEOON..
Most/all regular Leica taking lenses didn't cut it..
Macro R 60/DR f2 Summicron/Focotar-1...were not too good..sloppy in the corners..
Only the Focotar-2 was sharp and detailed corner to corner...even wide open...
Other enlarging lenses should work well here as they are flat field designs..
I think I heard that the Focotar-2 was a process lens...and is totally sharp even wide open..this bears out to be true..
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #10
gbealnz
Registered User
 
gbealnz is offline
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
Posts: 136
And that is the reason I used the Apo Rodenstock, it is designed specifically for this style of use.
Gary
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #11
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Nice. I wasn't even aware of Focotar line. I now gotta look into it. Would be nice to have this copying station ready with a dedicated lens attached.
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-12-2015   #12
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Apo Rodenstock, noted as well.

I guess I should look into all available enlarger lens that can be used with LTM/M mount.
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-15-2015   #13
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃıɹq looɟɹəʇƃıɹq
 
philipus's Avatar
 
philipus is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: '(,,,,)l
Posts: 1,019
Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post
I also received a USB powered super thin light box for a little over $40 from Amazon.
Nice BEOON

Btw, which lightbox is that? Looks really nice.

Br
Philip
__________________
philipus.com

Camera position: In general as shown in Fig. H and J, but according to requirements other positions are also possible or more practical.
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-15-2015   #14
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Quote:
Originally Posted by philipus View Post
Nice BEOON

Btw, which lightbox is that? Looks really nice.

Br
Philip
This is the one I got.
http://www.amazon.com/Huion-Ultra-th...words=lightbox

Super thin, working fine so far. Very combpenient as it just powers from Micro USB cable. Wish there were smaller one (this one is 17" diagonal), but I guess I can use this for other work.
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 05-16-2015   #15
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃıɹq looɟɹəʇƃıɹq
 
philipus's Avatar
 
philipus is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: '(,,,,)l
Posts: 1,019
Looks fantastic, Sug. Thank you for posting back.

The larger model isn't shipped to where I live (Netherlands) but there are a few A4 models it seems. Very cool design.

Best
Philip

Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post
This is the one I got.
http://www.amazon.com/Huion-Ultra-th...words=lightbox

Super thin, working fine so far. Very combpenient as it just powers from Micro USB cable. Wish there were smaller one (this one is 17" diagonal), but I guess I can use this for other work.
__________________
philipus.com

Camera position: In general as shown in Fig. H and J, but according to requirements other positions are also possible or more practical.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-03-2015   #16
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
A few examples with X-E1 as the scanner, 50 Lux ASPH as the taking lens (only M mount 50mm I have right now).

It is tempting to get a heavily discounted A7 and Focotar-2 to be used with BEOON as I've gone back to all film Ms.


Road Trip x Coffee by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


B-Day Girl Approaching by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


Joe is about to fly. by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


A little bird told him... by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


Desert Boots in Mt. Sutro by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


Little Wonder by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


One Sunday Morning by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 06-17-2015   #17
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
For "serious" prints I'd wet print, but for casual 4"x6" to give away, X-E1/BEOON combination is working pretty darn good. I just printed a bunch from a camping trip using my R3000 and I'm very happy with the result.

__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 06-18-2015   #18
lrochfort
Registered User
 
lrochfort is offline
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 229
May I ask how true to the negative people feel the image is when using a digital camera as the capture device?

Does it look like an image from a negative with the wide dynamic range and good shadow detail you'd expect, or does it look like a digitally captured image?

Does it capture and represent medium format well?

How does it compare to a high end flatbed like the v700?

Would using a full frame digital make a difference?

thanks!
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-18-2015   #19
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃıɹq looɟɹəʇƃıɹq
 
philipus's Avatar
 
philipus is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: '(,,,,)l
Posts: 1,019
Quote:
Originally Posted by lrochfort View Post
May I ask how true to the negative people feel the image is when using a digital camera as the capture device?

Does it look like an image from a negative with the wide dynamic range and good shadow detail you'd expect, or does it look like a digitally captured image?

Does it capture and represent medium format well?

How does it compare to a high end flatbed like the v700?

Would using a full frame digital make a difference?

thanks!
I tried digitizing 135 film with a EOS 5D2 and the 100L macro. I found that the resulting files were similar to what my Coolscans give, but not the same. There are just more things one can do with a dedicated film scanner and its software. That being said, it all depends on one's needs and preferences. But it won't look "digital" in that (imo) awful, "plastic" and unreal sense that digital does (to me, I hasten to add).

I wouldn't think using a small-sensor (even "full frame") would be recommendable for medium format film unless it's only for web use or small prints. One would have to accept considerable loss in quality and would not get near what medium format film delivers.

As soon as a negative/transparency is captured digitally, whether by a scanner or a camera, it will be subject to the limitations of that capture device. I am certainly no expert, but I imagine that most digital cameras today, except possibly at the highest end, are not able to capture the amount of information that is held in a wet-printed image. There were recently some fairly heated discussions in the Scan Hi-End Yahoo group concerning a new high-end digitizing scanner - http://dtdch.com/page/film-scanning-kit (message thread). I saw some RFF members in the discussion plus some from over at Large Format Forum, all very competent photographers and scanner operators. Many questioned the statements on the DT site. But, again, it comes down to one's needs and preferences.

Btw, an Epson V700 (if that's the one you refer to) is far, far from a high-end flatbed, like the iQSmarts or such.

Philip
__________________
philipus.com

Camera position: In general as shown in Fig. H and J, but according to requirements other positions are also possible or more practical.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-18-2015   #20
Rob-F
It's Only a Hobby
 
Rob-F's Avatar
 
Rob-F is offline
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: The Show Me state
Posts: 4,986
I always wanted one of those things.
__________________
May the light be with you.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-18-2015   #21
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
Quote:
Originally Posted by lrochfort View Post
May I ask how true to the negative people feel the image is when using a digital camera as the capture device?

Does it look like an image from a negative with the wide dynamic range and good shadow detail you'd expect, or does it look like a digitally captured image?

Does it capture and represent medium format well?

How does it compare to a high end flatbed like the v700?

Would using a full frame digital make a difference?

thanks!
I'm not techie enough to really talk about dynamic range and whatnot, but I feel it's very easy to achieve very good details in highlights and shadows. Of course it will be depending on the camera body you use, but because it is a very controlled environment you are scanning these rather than quick shooting with unmetered camera on the street. I can check the histogram to make sure everything is within the range, and you are not trying to capture that is beyond what film has captured (super strong light light source etc).

Also keep in mind you are scanning negatives. Camera body's capability towards highlights becomes the shadow details, shadows become highlights in reversed image.

I am a lot happier scanning this way than using V700 I had once.


Blacksmith at the Station by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 04-07-2016   #22
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
Just trying to bring this thread to life: has anyone more information on the quality that can be achieved through this type of negative copying using digital cameras?
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-07-2016   #23
Peter Jennings
Registered User
 
Peter Jennings's Avatar
 
Peter Jennings is offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seoul
Posts: 322
Thanks for reviving the thread, Nowhereman. I had been considering getting a BEOON for this purpose as well. It's nice to see some people are already using it! Does anyone know if a Micro-Nikkor in F mount adapted to M mount would be a workable lens alternative?
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-07-2016   #24
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
Here is an article, whose link I posted in another thread, on digitalizing negatives using a camera versus scanning. It's undated but seems to have been written in 2014 or later:

https://luminous-landscape.com/artic...raScanning.pdf

One of the authors (Mark Segal) wrote Epson V850 that you posted. Looks like there are a good number of issues that need to be dealt with in digitalizing negatives with a camera, including how to invert B&W negatives to positives, how to deal with color negative film and how to deal with vibration. Another issue that I saw in an article on the BEOON is dust landing on the negative. Looks like digitalizing with a camera has a lot of issues that need to be dealt with that I had not realized, and therefore looks more complicated than I thought.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-07-2016   #25
Richard G
Registered User
 
Richard G's Avatar
 
Richard G is offline
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: 37,47 S
Posts: 4,501
It's a wonderful device. I got mine from Pacific Rim Cameras. I emailed to ask if it was complete. Yeah it is. Well, it had the original box and the insert showed no wear: probably never used. I mount the 2000 Elmar M 50 2.8 on it. That is flat. I am still struggling to find the best method of copying my medium format Rolleiflex negatives.
__________________
Richard
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-26-2016   #26
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
I've just spent the greater part of two days trying to make good "scans" with a BEOON that I bought from someone in Oz. It looks good: spotless with no scratches.

However, using an M-Monohrom, and trying two 50mm lenses (Summilux-50 pre-ASPH and the DR Summicron) and, following the Leitz instructions in setting the lens at f/11 and the focus at infinity, I've found it extremely difficult to hit focus as well as negatives that were scanned for me on an Epson V800 at a small lab in Chiang Mai. My feeling is that the BEOON would work much better for someone using a camera with live view.

As I can't spend more time on this, tomorrow I'll probably decide to sell the BEOON, at the same low price at which I bought it. I'm not about to buy a a variety of the Sony A7 just to use with the BEOON.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-27-2016   #27
a.noctilux
Registered User
 
a.noctilux is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Montpellier, Occitanie
Posts: 156
Nowhereman, the faulty link is the lenses you use.
Those good lenses that I use at normal distant also are optimised for more than 1 meter distance (even the DR).
So using them at 1:1 is not the same thing with your Monochrom or another body with liveview.

Lenses optimised for macro work have "macro" or "micro" (Nikkor) in their names.
And these lenses are not speed shampions, f:2.8 or less.
I use Macro-Elmarit-R 2.8/60mm or Micro-Nikkor 3.5/55mm, sometimes others also.

Or just use some enlarging lenses like Focotar 4.5/50mm, EL-Nikkor.

Arnaud
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-27-2016   #28
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
Thanks, but I figured out the problem: I was stupidly setting the lens TO f/11, which is the aperture the BEOON manual states should be used for copying; but, of course, the lens should be set to it's maximum aperture (f/2 for the DR Summicron) for focusing, and then stopped down — that gives perfect focus every time.

Incidentally, I find that the BEOON/MM/DR-Summicron gives substantially more dynamic range than the scan I have that was done with the Epson V800.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-28-2016   #29
Peter Jennings
Registered User
 
Peter Jennings's Avatar
 
Peter Jennings is offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seoul
Posts: 322
I received a BEOON in the mail the other day and am already liking the results. Using a Micro-Nikkor and Sony A7 - both of which I already had - is giving me sharp scans in a short amount of time. Look forward to scanning some MF negatives in the next few days.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-28-2016   #30
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
As I wrote above, I've now figured out how to focus correctly with the Leitz BEOON copy stand. Here is a photo digitalized with the M9/DR Summicron — I'll now have to figure in detil out detail whether, for Tri-X, it makes any visible difference to digitalize with the MM vs M9; so far, I doubt it.

Still nor perfect, however: I found that, in the lower-left corner, there is an long, narrow, empty triangle, which I have to crop out. Someone suggested that it could be the film not being completely flat, but I simply don't see that when I set up the scan...Anyone have any thoughts on this?


M6 | Summilux-35 FLE | Tri-X @ ISO 400 | Stand development for 1 hour in Rodinal 1:100, gentle inversion after 30 minutes.

Chiang Mai

_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-28-2016   #31
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhereman View Post
...Still nor perfect, however: I found that, in the lower-left corner, there is an long, narrow, empty triangle, which I have to crop out. Someone suggested that it could be the film not being completely flat, but I simply don't see that when I set up the scan...Anyone have any thoughts on this?...
On LUF, where I posted the same question, someone responded that he could clearly see that it's due to the camera being not quite well aligned with the mask that frames the slide being copied.

That is likely to be the reason: I found that, while the BEOON I bought looks prefect, there is slight play when the camera is mounted — the tiniest amount of movement (minuscule rotation) is possible clockwise and counter-clockwise. However, when I took two pictures at the extremes of this play, the cutoff triangle got larger in one direction of rotation, but it still remained, smaller, at the other direction of rotation.

I wonder whether there is any solution to this?

If not, then this would confirm that the BOON is really much better for a camera with live view. I'm beginning to like the BEOON, but am not likely to keep on using it if I always have to crop because of this cutoff.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-28-2016   #32
Godfrey
somewhat colored
 
Godfrey's Avatar
 
Godfrey is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Jennings View Post
Thanks for reviving the thread, Nowhereman. I had been considering getting a BEOON for this purpose as well. It's nice to see some people are already using it! Does anyone know if a Micro-Nikkor in F mount adapted to M mount would be a workable lens alternative?
I tried ... It's a bit too bulky for easy use, but it did work.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-28-2016   #33
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,451
I've been using BEOON for all of my scans ever since I got it. My favorite setup so far is with OM-D E-M5 Mk II in high resolution mode. I've been just using my old Elmar 50 as taking lens. Love to try others but I just don't have anything better for this purpose at the moment.


Taking Five by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


My favorite pupster by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


Path by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | Instagram

  Reply With Quote

Old 04-28-2016   #34
Peter Jennings
Registered User
 
Peter Jennings's Avatar
 
Peter Jennings is offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seoul
Posts: 322
Quote:
Originally Posted by Godfrey View Post
I tried ... It's a bit too bulky for easy use, but it did work.
Thanks, Godfrey. I've been using it now a couple days. The Mircro-Nikkor works fine. My biggest concern was whether it would fit as it is a somewhat bulky lens, but it was not a problem.
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-30-2016   #35
Richard G
Registered User
 
Richard G's Avatar
 
Richard G is offline
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: 37,47 S
Posts: 4,501
Did yours come with an M adapter for mounting the camera to the stand? Mine didn't, but I already had one. For months now I have gained the conviction that I must have lost mine in a mad scramble for something or in a big cleanout. Only with this revived thread did I realise that it's been on the BEOON all these months. Maybe that's where your lost 50 adapter is too.
__________________
Richard
  Reply With Quote

Where to find a good Focotar 2 ?
Old 05-06-2016   #36
zerobuttons
Registered User
 
zerobuttons is offline
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Denmark
Posts: 342
Where to find a good Focotar 2 ?

This thread was extremely enlightening to me. I now have a complete BEOON kit on its way from UK to me.

I will need to acquire a lens as well. My purpose is digitalizing negatives. They are mostly 35mm, but I also have a few 4x5" from my pinhole camera. Reading this thread, these are the two lenses I am most tempted to go with:
# Rodenstock APO 50mm
# Focotar 2

And from those two I would probably rather go with the Focotar 2. Unfortunately, the only specimens I find for sale within EU look crappy. Any suggestions for where to look for a good one?
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-08-2016   #37
Jhausler
Registered User
 
Jhausler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 117
I've been looking for a Beoon. I saw one on ebay recently, but missed the auction. If anyone is looking to sell their, hit me up.

What benefits do an enlargement lens have over other taking lenses?

I have a few M mount 50s, but a summilux ASPH is my best. I also have an older Elmar 3.5 and a Jupiter8.

Would the Elmar be any better or worse than the Lux for this purpose?
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-08-2016   #38
Emile de Leon
Registered User
 
Emile de Leon is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 601
Best to use an A7 or similar full frame live view cam and a good flat field enlarging lens if you need good corners...I don't believe any regular camera lens is going to do the job as well as an enlarging lens designed for this purpose..as in..its all about the corners..
..even my 60 leica macro R lens..doesn't cut it in the corners..or the DR Summi for that matter..
Its like anything else..do it right..and you get the results you want..cheapen out..and well..
The good thing about the enlarging lenses is..esp the apo ones..that they are good wide open or close..very good indeed..
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-09-2016   #39
Nowhereman
-
 
Nowhereman is offline
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 238
The BEOON is designed for the use of a 50mm lens and the manual states that the aperture should be stopped down to f/11. Using a DR-Summicron, I found no corner problems — and am not certain that an enlarging lens will improve "scans" done with the BEOON.
  Reply With Quote

Old 05-09-2016   #40
Jhausler
Registered User
 
Jhausler is offline
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 117
Interesting conversation for sure. I'd be curious to see the differences between doing this with a $200 Fotocar vs a $3000 Lux.

I still need a BEOON so it'll have to wait

I also read somewhere about doing this HDR style with exposure bracketing and Nik software. Has anyone tried that?

I have a PrimeFilm XA, which I do like... Although i've been too lazy to buy the better Silverfast with Multi Exposure.
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 00:42.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.