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Tom Abrahamsson of RapidWinder.com It is almost never that an inventor improves on a Leica product so that it is better than the original Leica product. Tom holds that distinction with his RapidWinder for Leica M rangefinders -- a bottom mounting baseplate trigger advance. In addition Tom manufacturers other Leica accessories such as his very popular Soft Release and MiniSoftRelease shutter releases. Tom is well known as one of the true Leica rangefinder experts, even by Leica. IMPORTANT READ THIS: CWE Forum hosts have moderation powers within their forum. Please observe copyright laws by not copying and posting their material elsewhere without permission.

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Old 06-11-2011   #121
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I'm saved!! Well, except fpr two wrecked rolls. I found a gallon of Lauder's Formula 76 in a local store and I'm back in biz. We have a hot-rod circuit cruise downtown this afternoon/evening, so it's Leica time again!
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Old 06-11-2011   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob-F View Post
A quick note on the longevity of D-76: After much deliberation, I decided to chance doing a roll of Tri-X in some D-76 that I mixed last September. That was 9 months ago! I wanted to use the D-76 1:1, since that is my usual. To be on the safe side, I used 8oz D-76 to 8oz water, in a 16oz tank. The negatives look great! Not at all weak, pretty good shadows, highlights not blocked. Looking forward to printing some of these!

Oh, yeah: I had the D-76 stored in green bottles, and the bottle I used was only about 80% full!

I rarely take chances with old developers (unless it is for testing purposes) as a screw-up usually results in wasted film and unprintable negatives. Developer are fairly cheap - at least if you mix your own and it is bad enough to screw up prints in the darkroom - the negative remains intact.
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Old 06-11-2011   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom A View Post
I rarely take chances with old developers (unless it is for testing purposes) as a screw-up usually results in wasted film and unprintable negatives. Developer are fairly cheap - at least if you mix your own and it is bad enough to screw up prints in the darkroom - the negative remains intact.

Agreed. This was strictly in the spirit of scientific curiosity!
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What about Ilford's ID-11...
Old 06-23-2011   #124
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What about Ilford's ID-11...

Dear Tom-

I have hopes you are feeling better? on your topic, what is your opinion to ID-11? Most say it is the same as D76, but some have said it is the ORIGINAL formula of D76 and Kodaks current stock has been changed?

Your thoughts?


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Old 06-23-2011   #125
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If you guys want to develop your own opinions on film/developer combinations, grab a few different ones, 3 rolls of your favorite film, set your camera on a tripod with one landscape/object and snap and bracket away. Cut each roll into thirds, develop in those 3 developers and print a few shots. I'm not saying Tom isn't experienced or anything like that, but it's all opinions. If I had a dollar for everyone who took a film/developer combination from someone's opinion and then complained about it, I'd have like ten bucks. Everyone's style of exposing images/rating film, agitation, margin of error in mixing, and printing/scanning/editing styles are so different that you're not likely able to replicate someone else's mastery of the combination unless you copy everything they do, the equipment they use, etc.
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Old 06-23-2011   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaVirgin1 View Post
Dear Tom-

I have hopes you are feeling better? on your topic, what is your opinion to ID-11? Most say it is the same as D76, but some have said it is the ORIGINAL formula of D76 and Kodaks current stock has been changed?

Your thoughts?


Best,

LV1
The ID11 and the D76 are virtually the same. I use them as the same - same times and same agitation. As for being the original, could very well be - as the ID11 still comes in 2 packages, while Kodak's current D76 is a single envelope. Probably some kind of preservative in D76 to handle long term storage.
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Old 06-23-2011   #127
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D76, nvr fails to impress me..i used it for triX as well as Agfa APX 100. I did a comparison on Agfa on D76 n tmax developer..its very obvious that D76 develops the best tones.

But somehow d76 just don work as well on tmax films..oh well, thats where tmax developer comes in.
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Old 02-20-2012   #128
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Quote:
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What are you rating the film at? Try a couple of rolls and bracket the exposures from 250/320/400 and see which one works best.
As for developing, you might want to try different agitation too. 30-40 sec. initially and then 3 flips/taps every 60 sec.
It is worthwhile shooting yourself in with a film. Set aside 5-6 rolls and try different versions of film speed and agitation. Once you got it nailed - life gets much easier.
Tom-

What do you think of the 2002 KODAK DATA GUIDE FOR B&W FILM DEVELOPING?

I use it and find the only things that have changed over the years is the time for tri-x and D76. I use D76 as a STOCK solution. It calls for 4-5 inversions during the first 30 seconds and then 4-5 inversions every 30 secs. thereafter @ 20c/68f for 6.75 mins.

I have attached some images below: Leica M3, (single stroke), 50mm Leitz Summilux f1.4v.2, New 400TX/Tri-X @ 320 ISO, D76 (stock) at stated above times and agitation. Scanned on an Epson v750pro @ 4800dpi. NO PHOTOSHOP/APERTURE/IPHOTO/or any DIGITAL MANIPULATION other than Scanning Software.

Thoughts TOM?

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Old 02-20-2012   #129
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With TriX you establish your own speed and processing. It is flexible enough that it will do just about anything! Your stuff looks good - and if it works - just keep doing it the same way. Once you have established how you like the negs to look - this is one case where consistency pays off. There are enough surprises anyway in the process of taking pictures!
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Old 06-14-2012   #130
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Tom

I really have to thank you for starting the "Back to Basics" project. This thread and your Flickr photos motivated me to go all out in faith with just D-76 and 50 rolls of Tri-X for all my family shots (plus occasional street shots). I really like what I am getting so far.
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Old 06-14-2012   #131
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There is something so simple with the TRIX/D76. You eliminate one factor of "change' - and concentrate on the shooting instead.
Of course, consistently inconsistent - we just came back from 4 weeks in Europe. I shot with Arista Premium 400 - which I am now developing in Pyrocat HD. Reason being that I had enough mixed up to do the 50+ rolls I shot while there.
Once those rolls are done I will mix up some more D76 and go back to basics.
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Old 06-14-2012   #132
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I've dilligently stuck to Tri-X/Arista Premium and D76 1:1 (as the only developing I do at home), for over a year now and I can tell there is still much to learn. Thanks for the info and resulting motivation Tom!
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Old 10-28-2012   #133
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Hi everyone,

First post. Wanting to ask a few questions in regards to developing Trix in D76.

I'm shooting Arista Premium at 400 and developing in D76 1:1, 20deg for 9mins 45 (as suggested by Kodak). Agitating for 30 seconds and then 2 inversions every 30 seconds.

I'm finding that my negatives are very contrasty, almost white/black with very little midtones.

I believe I need to reduce the development time, but I'm unsure where to start? Would 9mins be a sufficient starting point?

Thanks
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Old 10-28-2012   #134
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I assuming you have a variety of scenes in one roll. You may want to try reducing the amount of agitation. Perhaps do 1 inversion every 1 minute for 10 minutes at 20 C.
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Old 10-28-2012   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent.G View Post
I assuming you have a variety of scenes in one roll. You may want to try reducing the amount of agitation. Perhaps do 1 inversion every 1 minute for 10 minutes at 20 C.
Correct, normally have a mix of everything. Thanks for the tip, will give that a go with my next roll.

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Old 10-28-2012   #136
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If you are using a small tank (1-2 reel) I would reduce agitation as suggested. 2 "flips" every 60 seconds. Usually D76 is fairly normal in contrast so the "chalk and soot" effect could be exposure too.
"Waste" a roll or two - shoot it at different speed (100/200/400 and maybe even 800) - develop as you did initially and look at the negatives - you might find that you are shooting at 250 iso but developing for 400/800. Once you determined what speed to use - shoot another roll at that and see if it works for you. The trick is to find out what your "film speed" and developing procedure is - and then stick to that.
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Old 10-28-2012   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom A View Post
If you are using a small tank (1-2 reel) I would reduce agitation as suggested. 2 "flips" every 60 seconds. Usually D76 is fairly normal in contrast so the "chalk and soot" effect could be exposure too.
"Waste" a roll or two - shoot it at different speed (100/200/400 and maybe even 800) - develop as you did initially and look at the negatives - you might find that you are shooting at 250 iso but developing for 400/800. Once you determined what speed to use - shoot another roll at that and see if it works for you. The trick is to find out what your "film speed" and developing procedure is - and then stick to that.
Fantastic, I am using a small 2 roll tank so will give the agitation reduction a try. I'll run a few test rolls this weekend and see how I go.

Much appreciated Tom
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Old 10-29-2012   #138
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Great thread.

My never fail combination is Tri-X @ 200 and D76 1+1 @20C for 8:00 minutes.

3 turns to start then one turn every 30 seconds.

And although I come from Perth, I've resisted the temptation to add vegemite. (See Tom's OP).
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Old 10-29-2012   #139
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Quote:
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Great thread.

My never fail combination is Tri-X @ 200 and D76 1+1 @20C for 8:00 minutes.

3 turns to start then one turn every 30 seconds.

And although I come from Perth, I've resisted the temptation to add vegemite. (See Tom's OP).
What's Vegemite??
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Old 10-29-2012   #140
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vegemite, if im not mistaken, is something you spread on toast and eat. its popular in australia i think.. not 100% sure. i got all this info from an episode of "Rocket Power" for all the 90s kids that may be lurking here.
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Old 10-29-2012   #141
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Quote:
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What's Vegemite??
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vegemite

it has the consistency of black axle grease.
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Old 10-29-2012   #142
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Vegemite is a byproduct of beer making! (Australia after all). It contains a lot of vitamin B12 - as well as a lot of salt! Aquired taste, but I like it. You put some on a slice of bread and top it with cheese - stick in the toaster oven until the cheese has melted and eat - of course it helps if you sing "Waltzing Mathilda" too.
It actually makes sense in a hot climate - you replenish salt lost through sweating (and in 40+C - you do sweat, and B12 is considered good for you).
Kind of tricky to find in Vancouver, particularly in the industrial sized 1kg jars that you can find in Oz.
The brits have Marmite - but that is not even close to Vegemite!
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Old 10-29-2012   #143
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It's a bit like Marmite that we have in England. I prefer Marmite but both are good. Great on buttered toast. Must buy some more but it is not for sale everywhere in Finland where I live now. I usually get some for Christmas.
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Old 10-30-2012   #144
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Tom: I guess you know i am working on my retrospective. Therefore I am scanning my old Leica M2/Tri-X negatives from 1968... The tri-X looks really different. Much smoother, less grain. I guess this is the result of the D-76 and how it was prepared then:
As an assistant, i had to mix a couple gallons of D-76 powder in a huge tank (dip and dunk, with metal kindermann reels) Then the mix had to be burned in, with ends from loaded bulk film, clipped ends, bad stock etc. After a few days it was OK to use for serious reportage work. It was replinshed with fresh STOCK D-76 not with the specified kodak replinsher. It kept the nice soft gradiation for months, then after several hundred developed rolls replaced with new one, but only when the new developer was "run in". The guys said they learned this practice in Stockholm, where the press guys with leicas
were much more "advanced" than us Finns. Do you recall anything of this?
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Old 11-04-2014   #145
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An inspirational thread. I began shooting and developing my own b&w film again this past summer and it got me back in touch with why I became interested in photography in the first place. Tri-X and D76 was what I shot then and this past summer I was reminded why. So, I bought a small fridge and 500 rolls of Arista Premium before Freestyle finally ran out. I guess if D76 is ever discontinued I can roll my own.
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Old 11-04-2014   #146
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...and you can still buy Tri-X.
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Old 11-04-2014   #147
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OT: folklore has it that Aussie Diggers in Vietnam used to tell curious GIs to spread Vegemite thickly... and then watch their faces as they took a bite...

(it's a very strong flavour - almost indigestible in large amounts)
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Old 11-04-2014   #148
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...and you can still buy Tri-X.
True, but it would have cost me $600.00 more for the same in Tri-X. Even when calculating the per frame cost difference between purchasing Arista 24 vs Tri-X 36 exposure canisters there is a $131.00 savings.
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Old 11-04-2014   #149
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Duplicate post.
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Old 11-05-2014   #150
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Old 11-05-2014   #151
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True, but it would have cost me $600.00 more for the same in Tri-X. Even when calculating the per frame cost difference between purchasing Arista 24 vs Tri-X 36 exposure canisters there is a $131.00 savings.
I just meant that going forward, you could still buy Tri-X.
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Old 11-05-2014   #152
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I'm not sure 100% but I think I remember that TX at 400 ISO in D 76 is more about 13 min?
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Old 11-05-2014   #153
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I just meant that going forward, you could still buy Tri-X.
Of course. Didn't mean to sound contentious. I'm still a bit giddy over my aquisition.
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Old 07-14-2015   #154
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Reviving this thread for those Tri-X / D-76 combo lovers.

M2 / 21SA / Tri-X rated at 400 / D-76 (1:1) 10min


20141203-M2-21SA-400TX-D76-22 copy by Days of My Ordinary Life (Vincent), on Flickr
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