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Old 1 Week Ago   #881
nbagno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philbard View Post
Ned,

Try trashing the preferences files for both CQ Scan and CQ
Hey Phil,

I've already wiped out the OS and installed everything fresh, the same issue. Was wondering if it's a known problem. I can't click on anything in that dialog box without crashing CQ
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Old 1 Week Ago   #882
nbagno
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Just tried in OSX 10.5.8 and it does not crash when clicking in the unsharp mask dialog box. My goal is to get this thing scanning reliably in 10.5.8. As of now, 10.2.8 connects at first try 80% of the time, if it fails a quick restart and it will connect. 10.3, 10.4, 10.5 are way pickier. I have multiple SCSI cards and multiple G4 computers and have been testing various combos for the past week. Still waiting on a cable for my ATTO SCSI card. Anyway, there's some issue with OS 10.2.8 and my setup :-\ It's always something.
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Scanmate 11000 bulb assembly replacement
Old 6 Days Ago   #883
nbagno
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Scanmate 11000 bulb assembly replacement

In case you need to re-do your bulb sockets and wires, here is a parts list that will work for the SM11000, at least mine. I've seen pictures of another scanner, I think a 5000 that used two connectors, mine has one, four circut connector.

1) MOLEX 19-09-1046 2.36mm Diameter Standard .093" Pin and Socket Receptacle Housing with Positive Latch, UL 94V-0, 4 Circuits (you donít need this if you only want to replace the bulb sockets).
2) Molex 02-09-1104 2.36mm Diameter, Standard .093" Pin and Socket Crimp Terminal, Series 1189, Female, with Tin (Sn) Plated Brass Contact
3) Westinghouse 11108 socket (or similar)
a) Optional - Molex crimp tool. I prefer to manually crimp the connector over the wire insulation and then solder the wire to the connector (after tinning the wire)
b) Optional - .093: pin extraction tool, in case you screw up.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #884
nbagno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbagno View Post
I couldn't read the manufacturer, but the person I bought it from who has posted in this thread in the past took his apart and helped me out. Looks like this may be it. But yes, it looks to be a standard belt, 4mm wide. Thanks for your response.

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detai...D&Tab=codeList
Update on the belt. The one in the link above is a perfect fit. In case you need to do this it's pretty straight forward. The service manual does not go over this, I believe it suggests an entire assembly replacement.

- Remove the front cover as shown in the service manual, don't forget to disconnect the ribbon cable.

- Remove the metal end covers

- This is where it's a little tricky if you don't know "the trick". The motor/door assembly is held in place with Allen screws on the side (black). That's it. However, the assembly is a tight fit so it will feel like there is something else holding it in there. There isn't. What you will notice is that one of the metal crossbars is tucked under the lip in the housing so you need to wiggle the assembly past that. It's a little difficult to remove the assembly because there are rubber grommets on the sides pressing against the housing cover. The Allen screws actually go through the grommets. Make sure and disconnect the two cables connecting the front switch panel and careful of the door cover switch rod.

- Once out, you can see belts on the side and how the door attaches to the belts using a clamp. In order to remove the belts, you unscrew the two clamp screws where it attaches to the flat bar that the door plexiglass attaches, and on each side, pop off the metal washers on the side that keeps the belts in the guide.

- On reassembly, I suggest using some lube on the side grommets that you popped off, and on the other grommets to help the assembly slide back in like butter.

Here's a shot of the assembly removed from the housing. Note I removed the noise padding around the motor because I was sure there was something else holding in the assemble as noted above.


Here's my jacked up belt. You can see the grommets that make it difficult to remove the assembly from the housing. Put some lube on them to make it easy to slide back in.




Like new (link to google drive short door opening/closing video) https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Qf...ueOsTnAF7Hrf6z
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Old 20 Hours Ago   #885
monkeyfist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbagno View Post
Just tried in OSX 10.5.8 and it does not crash when clicking in the unsharp mask dialog box. My goal is to get this thing scanning reliably in 10.5.8. As of now, 10.2.8 connects at first try 80% of the time, if it fails a quick restart and it will connect. 10.3, 10.4, 10.5 are way pickier. I have multiple SCSI cards and multiple G4 computers and have been testing various combos for the past week. Still waiting on a cable for my ATTO SCSI card. Anyway, there's some issue with OS 10.2.8 and my setup :-\ It's always something.
It runs perfectly on 64bit win10, there is no need to use old machines for this.
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Old 18 Hours Ago   #886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyfist View Post
It runs perfectly on 64bit win10, there is no need to use old machines for this.
I have a mac dongle, but when I try to run in windows using run as date I still get a crosshatch pattern on the scan. Maybe not doing in right.

I do notice that 16-bit raw seems to output 8-bit files as shown in photoshop. On the windows side, 16 bit raw shows up as 16 bit in photoshop
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