Old 04-04-2019   #441
Ronald M
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Camera-scan friends -

What are you doing when your camera-scan produces too much detail, when the grain shows too much? Comparing some of my camera-scans to lab scans (from mid 2000's), I like their smoothness better than what I'm getting today, especially for skies and faces.



Do you smooth, and how? ... in Lightroom? ... in PS?

Example: 1:1 from 6MPx lab-scan in 2002, 1:2 of 24MPx camera-scan today. From a 2002 slide.

Photoshop noise reduction should reduce grain. NR is opposite of sharpening. Also try gaussian blur. Use a mask to isolate to the areas you want. Grey rather than black will let some NR thru, but not all.

There used to be a program called grain surgery. Still available?
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Old 04-04-2019   #442
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Originally Posted by ptpdprinter
I found it difficult to focus the negative accurately, and now use a dedicated scanner.
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Originally Posted by Ronald M View Post
Live view in magnified view. Use tripod mode.

Exactly. I use Live View and an AF macro lens and it nails focus on the film grain in an instant.
When I first started out, I tried to focus in regular mode through the VF, as if I was taking a standard photo, and it was impossible to get it sharp. Live View is key.
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Old 04-04-2019   #443
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Indeed. I focus manually but use the magnified Live View.

I also find having a tilting or articulating screen on the camera adds a lot to the ergonomic factor, vs. hunched over all the time.
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Old 04-04-2019   #444
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Just getting to grips with the A7. So far really impressed with the handling and features.
Yes..a good choice..and lightweight too..
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I’ve mounted an old LTM lens using a M39 adapter and all’s good. What’s not so good is I can’t figure out the best way to get my enlarger lenses working as macro lenses.
You will need some spacers..if you have a bunch of 39mm filters you can take the glass out of them or get a DOORX or 2 to fit your needs..
Or a BEOON which has the spacers in a lot of different sizes..
You will need a focusing type adapter..not the one that doesn't focus..these are available for cheep on Ebay..
I used the M to screwmount adapter..and mount the lens to that..and mount that to the focusing M to E mount adapter..for the camera..you will focus from the adapter.
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Old 04-04-2019   #445
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Originally Posted by Emile de Leon View Post
Yes..a good choice..and lightweight too..

You will need some spacers..if you have a bunch of 39mm filters you can take the glass out of them or get a DOORX or 2 to fit your needs..
Or a BEOON which has the spacers in a lot of different sizes..
You will need a focusing type adapter..not the one that doesn't focus..these are available for cheep on Ebay..
I used the M to screwmount adapter..and mount the lens to that..and mount that to the focusing M to E mount adapter..for the camera..you will focus from the adapter.

Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?
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Old 04-04-2019   #446
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Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?
As Emile mentioned, the Leica BEOON comes with a set of extension tubes that you can mix and match. I can measure them when I get home later tonight.

Alternatively, if you use a copy stand in place of the BEOON, I think you could probably source a set of m39 extension tubes.

p.s. I also use the Voigtlander V-ME close focus adapter, which has a small close focus helical (4mm of extension). Useful for smaller adjustments, and with my APS-C digicam, gets me a little closer to filling the frame.
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Old 04-04-2019   #447
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Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?
This is a good one..this will allow you to account for the variables in negative bend...and focusing using an enlarging lens..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enlarging lenses have different nodal points..but for the Focotar-2 I use..I use about 60mm of extension..not including the focusing adapter.
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Old 04-04-2019   #448
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The BEOON comes with 4 different tube/rings, labelled A-B-C-D. I don't have digital calipers, so eyeballing with a ruler:
A = ~9mm
B = ~9mm
C = ~17mm
D= ~34mm

According to the instructions, a different combination of rings will get you different reproduction ratios:
1:3 = A
1:2 = A+B
1:1.5 = A+C
1:1 = A+D

More BEOON info here:
https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic...r-to-purchase/
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Old 04-05-2019   #449
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^^^ thanks guys, that's all really helpful. I'm off to source some tubes and adapters!
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Old 04-07-2019   #450
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Originally Posted by css9450 View Post
Indeed. I focus manually but use the magnified Live View.

I also find having a tilting or articulating screen on the camera adds a lot to the ergonomic factor, vs. hunched over all the time.
I second these points.

Manual focus, stiff, solid rig so nothing is moving.
Focus peaking. Magnified live view, still see just a bit of f-peaking.
Then even more magnified live view, final check

Tilting screen a huge advantage.

I prefer the camera LCD. Tried tethered, but that doesn't show the focus peaking, so not as effective for me.

(Sony gear. A7, A6000, etc.)
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Old 04-07-2019   #451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald M View Post
Photoshop noise reduction should reduce grain. NR is opposite of sharpening. Also try gaussian blur. Use a mask to isolate to the areas you want. Grey rather than black will let some NR thru, but not all.

There used to be a program called grain surgery. Still available?
Thanks. Grain Surgery was acquired by Adobe and seems to have disappeared. Perhaps it's built-into Despeckle.

Here's a 100% screen shot of a very grainy late 60's Kodachrome slide, camera-scan at 24MPx with very good copy lens. What to do with this grain to make a modern cleaner image?
- Capture at 6MPx or with a lesser lens?
- PS Noise... Reduce Noise doesn't do much at all
- PS Noise... Despeckle filter helps a little bit
- Nik Dfine is a little better
- Gaussian Blur, then sharpen?

Any suggestions? Seriously, some of these slides looked better with lesser scans.

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Old 04-09-2019   #452
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Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
Camera-scan friends -

What are you doing when your camera-scan produces too much detail, when the grain shows too much? Comparing some of my camera-scans to lab scans (from mid 2000's), I like their smoothness better than what I'm getting today, especially for skies and faces.

Do you smooth, and how? ... in Lightroom? ... in PS?

Example: 1:1 from 6MPx lab-scan in 2002, 1:2 of 24MPx camera-scan today. From a 2002 slide.

Something else is up because the camera scan's colours are off. Look at the hat.
It's almost like it's trying to show too much dynamic range.
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Old 04-09-2019   #453
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Brooks Plaubel Veriwide 100, Kodak E100G, super ultra crappy scan using my iphone 8 and dropping the film onto a light table, with nothing holding it flat!
I just wanted to see how it looks before I whip out the Z7 and copy stand.

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Old 04-09-2019   #454
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1:1 ish crop from the iphone 8 scan. Looks kinda ok considering this was zero effort...

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Old 04-18-2019   #455
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Hasselblad H1, 50mm 3.5, Fuji Velvia 50, Z7 scan

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #456
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Hasselblad H1, 50mm lens, Fuji NPS160, Nikon Z7 scan

Shoot being paused while Pepe gives the model a kiss.

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #457
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Mockba5 , Kodak TMY 400, Z7 scan

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #458
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Ha Huss, seems you really got that camera scan thing down, excellent!

I gave up myself and for the little amount of 135 film I still do, returned to and older Polaroid Sprintscan 35...

The Canon Auto Bellows setup with macr lens included I put up in the classifieds hasn't stirred any attention so far so I might just shelve it and try camera scanning again this winter or so...
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #459
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Mockba5 , Kodak TMY 400, Z7 scan

Nice shot, regardless of how it was digitized.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #460
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Sony A7ii scan, concave Ultron 50/1.8, Panatomic X Aero


Icarex 35-S, Ultron 50/1.8, Panatomic X by Mike Novak, on Flickr
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #461
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A7ii scan

Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Auto Takumar 35/3.5, Derev Pan 200 by Mike Novak, on Flickr
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #462
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A7ii scan


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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #463
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A7ii scan


Tele Rolleiflex, Sonnar 135/4, Portra [email protected] (expired 2009) by Mike Novak, on Flickr
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #464
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D7000 scan, a pic from my Komaflex-S.


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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #465
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Sony A7ii scan, concave Ultron 50/1.8, Panatomic X Aero


Icarex 35-S, Ultron 50/1.8, Panatomic X by Mike Novak, on Flickr
Mike that looks great!
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #466
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D7000 scan, a pic from my Komaflex-S.


Very nice!
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #467
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Ha Huss, seems you really got that camera scan thing down, excellent!

I gave up myself and for the little amount of 135 film I still do, returned to and older Polaroid Sprintscan 35...

The Canon Auto Bellows setup with macr lens included I put up in the classifieds hasn't stirred any attention so far so I might just shelve it and try camera scanning again this winter or so...
Thanks!

The key really is to use negativelabpro.com to convert the images. Super easy w great results.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #468
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Yes. Tried them all, Negative Lab Pro is a break through for camera-scan of color-negative material.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #469
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I use a Sony a7r2 and M/LTM lenses in combination with a set of M mount Novoflex extension tubes I've had for a while.

It does the job for me - I like the flexibility over a scanner. Especially for rolls/frames that are awkward for whatever reason - overlapping frames or different sized formats - and for getting better output than my Pakon 35mm scanner especially from black and white film (not that I always want/need this.)

I use a little 35mm enlarger as a copy stand on top of light table and neg carrier from Durst M70, plus a cardboard tube between lens/negative to eliminate any flare (this makes a big difference in my setup)

I prefer the 'top down' approach myself, since I'm always skipping between sizes/formats and the 42MP sensor means I don't have to worry about framing, it only takes a moment to adjust up/down for focus.


Scan from negative, IIIc, 50/3.5 Elmar, Ilford HP5+

One area I haven't got to is digitizing prints anyone have any particular tips for that? Ideally Id like to capture the print as a whole (ie; including border) to show that it is a print but flattening fiber prints, you know the drill. I get them nice and flat in my press after toning but then they go into portfolio books or paper boxes or get matted/framed once in a blue moon itd be nice to scan them as a routine part of the process.

Perhaps I'd be better off making a matboard carrier for the print and front mounted flash?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #470
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Fed 2, 50 2.5 lens, C200, Z7 scan, negativelabpro

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Old 1 Week Ago   #471
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One area I haven't got to is digitizing prints anyone have any particular tips for that? Ideally Id like to capture the print as a whole (ie; including border) to show that it is a print but flattening fiber prints, you know the drill. I get them nice and flat in my press after toning but then they go into portfolio books or paper boxes or get matted/framed once in a blue moon itd be nice to scan them as a routine part of the process.

Perhaps I'd be better off making a matboard carrier for the print and front mounted flash?
You can probably use mounting tape on the back of a frame that's slightly encroached on the print border, or sandwich between two magnetized frames. You can DIY a magnetic strip along each edge of the frame and have a metal backing with the print between
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Old 1 Week Ago   #472
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Huss, that's a great beach scene, and all the recent images are terrific.

Camera-scanning is here to stay!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #473
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Huss, that's a great beach scene, and all the recent images are terrific.

Camera-scanning is here to stay!
It's all thanks to negativelabpro.com

Wish I had this years ago!!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #474
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I use a little 35mm enlarger as a copy stand on top of light table and neg carrier from Durst M70, plus a cardboard tube between lens/negative to eliminate any flare (this makes a big difference in my setup)
One person I know is using a Pringles can where you have a cardboard tube. Inside is blackened, I believe. I've got a bellows lens shade for this purpose.

Yes, important to eliminate reflections and stray light.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #475
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Using the ES-1 or ES-2 copier for 35mm film there is obviously no need to shade anything, as it attaches directly to the lens.
Using my copy stand to scan 120/220 film, I do it on the evening and make sure all the lights are off when I scan. I also keep the deep lens hood on my 50 2.8G Nikon lens.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #476
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Old 1 Week Ago   #477
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Zeiss Ikon Nettar 517/2, Ilford Delta 400, Z7 scan

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Old 1 Week Ago   #478
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Yes. Tried them all, Negative Lab Pro is a break through for camera-scan of color-negative material.
Looks good! I haven't done much color neg work in years, perhaps it will give me an opportunity to shoot some with the Fuji GS645S. I have a couple of rolls of Portra to play with. $99 though ... a lot of money for a plug-in if I'm not using it much. Hm.

I did a batch of B&W negatives yesterday that I'd made with that camera. Took the time to use DNG Profile Editor to generate an inversion CPP for the Leica CL. That sped up my processing by a factor of three at least ... basically, one click and all of the exposures were converted to a passable positive rendering from the original DNGs. They did take some slight tone curve changes in three groups.

This was the most difficult one because of the huge contrast difference between the white blossoms and the dark green foliage:


Fuji GS645S Wide 60
Fuji HP5
HC-110 @ 74F @ 9 minutes in Kodacraft processing tank
Capture Leica CL + Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm f/2.8
ISO 100 @ f/8 @ 1/6
LR + Leica CL BW Invert profile

I had to jigger the curve a lot, and then do some spot editing on the blossoms to get the whole range in. (Click on it to see the full resolution JPEG.) I don't count it as 'finished' yet, but that's not bad for about 20 seconds work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
One person I know is using a Pringles can where you have a cardboard tube. Inside is blackened, I believe. I've got a bellows lens shade for this purpose.

Yes, important to eliminate reflections and stray light.
I darken the whole room and mask the negative image pretty tightly, frame by frame. I haven't found there to be much difficulty with flare or stray reflections using this setup (Leica CL, Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm on a Novoflex copy stand with an ancient flat panel light box as the illumination).

G
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Old 1 Week Ago   #479
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Godfrey, that's a great image, well done.

NLP is $99, but download for free and convert 12 images without obligation.
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