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Nokton 50/1.5 Close focus modification - instructions and photos
Old 09-26-2010   #1
Krosya
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Nokton 50/1.5 Close focus modification - instructions and photos



As it is Nokton focuses down only to 0.9m. To some (me) its a serious drawback. Thanks to P.Lynn Miller, who was brave enough to try this first and gave me courage to try this myself. This is a difficult modification, so I would think hard before doing it. (however it would be VERY SIMPLE for a Cosina Factory, as you will see). At the end - it's all worth it for me.

Here is what lens looks like at the minumum focus BEFORE the modification:
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Old 09-26-2010   #2
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What you will need:
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Old 09-26-2010   #3
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I'm not sure if this can be done without taking the front section of the lens off - I think it may be possible, but it made it easier for me to handle things, so I did.
So:
1.Take off the front name ring - it just unscrews with some tension tool.
You will see 3 black phillips screws and one silver flat one. :


2. Unscrew all black ones and remove a black housing ring (part of barrel), there will be silver rings(shims) under it, with 6 holes on them, remove front optical group - it just lifts up and finally lift apperture ring - be careful - there will be a small ball inside - for apperture clicks. Dont lose it. There is a spot for it on the side of the apperture housing - when you re-assemble the lens.

3. Turn the lens over and unscrew the mount - 3 silver screws, make sure to mark the position of the screws, so when assembled lens orientation is correct on camera.

4. After mount is off - here is what you will see:


Note the marked areas - before any further steps, you want to mark/note all thes positions - VERY PRECISELY or your lens will not focus correct. Note 3 black screws that are circled. Also, there is an opening - marked with red bracket on photo - you want them to return to the EXACT position as your lens is now (before you take them apart). Position of this may be different than my lens, as each lens is calibrate individually, so MAKE SURE you mark things well!
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Last edited by Krosya : 10-12-2010 at 01:31.
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Old 09-26-2010   #4
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After you get this far, it's time to take a look inside the barrel of the lens. Look close inside that little window marked by the brackets. While doing so, turn focusing ring back and forth and at one point you will see this:


There is a little "T" shaped part that is attached wth 2 black screws. It moves with turning of the focusing ring. Basically - this is your focus limiter.

After you remove, you will be able to rotate focusing ring all the way around 360 degrees and more.

After you remove it, it's time to get the rear optical group from the barrel.

To do this, unscrew those 3 black screws at the rear of the lens - circled in a pic above. Once again - make sure you got everything well marked before doing so.

Optical group housing togethe with apperture housing will become lose inside the barrel. To remove it completely, unscrew the top part from the bottom. What you will end up with is this :

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Old 09-26-2010   #5
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On the left you see the rear optical group, with apperture housing, in the center - rear part of that housing, that was held to barrel with 3 black screws. and below you have barrel/focusing ring.:
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Old 09-26-2010   #6
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Now its time to take a look at focusing ring itself :


It's basically 3 rings. Outer, Inner, and a retaining ring that holds them together (black one)

With a spanner wrench remove black retaining ring and take inner and outer focusing rings apart:

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Old 09-26-2010   #7
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As you can see -there is a window there in the inner ring. This is the focus range window and this is the part that will need to be expanded to focus closer.
One end of the wndow is INF and the other is 0.9m. The 0.9m side will have to filed down to make it go to 0.7m.:


Now you ned to mark the area to be filed down:

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Old 09-26-2010   #8
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Now you want to attach that little "T" piece to the rear barrel assembly:


And stick it inside the inner barrel to see how this works when lens is being focused:
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Last edited by Krosya : 10-12-2010 at 01:35.
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Old 09-26-2010   #9
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Once you marked the part that needs to be filed down - do it very carefully:


When you finish, it should look similar to this:



As you can see - ALL Cosina had to do was make that window longer/wider and lens would focus to 0.7m to begin with.

You will have a lot of metal shavings after this, so make sure you clean all the parts well before re-assembly. It helps to put a bit of lubricatin between the inner and outer focusing rings.
Assemble in reverse.

When you are done your lens will do this:


Once again - this is NOT an easy modification, so do it at your own risk. This thread is just to give you some guidelines,but I make no promises as to if or how your lens will work if you chose to try this.

Hope this helps and Good luck!
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Last edited by Krosya : 09-26-2010 at 12:37.
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Old 09-26-2010   #10
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I didnt have to file down the mount of the lens - RF coupling seems to work as it as on RD1S. Will have to check with other cameras. So check with your particular bodies on this.
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Old 09-26-2010   #11
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very cool! awesome photos and instructions!
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Old 09-26-2010   #12
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Thankyou for posting these instructions. Very detailed, and great pictures.
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Old 09-26-2010   #13
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Update:
Having checked RF coupling on other cameras it looks like I will need to file down threads in the mount a bit to be able to have full coupling to 0.7m.
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Old 09-26-2010   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSU View Post
I know what I will be doing after dinner, tonight.
So, everybody's busy modifying their Noktons?
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Hi Krosya
Old 09-26-2010   #15
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Hi Krosya

Which ltm to m adapter are you using?

I've heard that between the cv type 1 and type 2, there is a slight thickness difference.

So if say you currently have the thicker model, perhaps the other model would be just right?

Again, very interesting stuff, even though I have a J3 right now, and not a Nokton.

Dr. Brian or Lynn will be sure to correct me here, but I believe individual adapter thickness variances may affect both the J3, and the Nokton ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krosya View Post
Update:
Having checked RF coupling on other cameras it looks like I will need to file down threads in the mount a bit to be able to have full coupling to 0.7m.
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Old 09-26-2010   #16
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I have several adapters - 3 Leica, 3 Voigtlanders anda couple of cheap ones from China. Best I can tell they all perform the same. I didnt try all of them on Nokton after the modification, but based on prior experience I wouldnt expect to see any difference.
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Old 09-26-2010   #17
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Thanks for all the photos and instructions. You took the long way around to make the same modification. Well done!

I will say that there is no need to remove the front of the lens, there is a short cut that I worked out so that this can all be done from the back of the lens. I did the same modification, enlarging the 'window'.

I made templates and tools to allow me to repeat the modification consistently. Cosina could have done this at no cost and with added machining time of about 2 seconds.

Thanks for all your hard work!
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Old 09-26-2010   #18
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I thought (after the fact) that there is a way to do it without removal of the front too, but to me it makes handling easier with front of the lens being removed. Plus I was not sure from which end of the lens I'll be able to get to things I'd need to modify, so I started from the front.
What tools did you make? I didnt need any other tools than pictured at the beginning of the thread. I wonder what is it you made to make things easier?
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Last edited by Krosya : 06-14-2011 at 05:42.
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Old 09-26-2010   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krosya View Post
What tools did you make? I didnt need any other tools than pictured at the beinning of the thread. I wonder what is it you made to make things easier?
I tend to make tools instead of using generic tools, such as spanner wrenches. So I made the needed pin wrenches for assembly and disassembly, a hardened filing guide/template, single-sided file, etc. Basically ensures that I can disassemble, modify and reassemble in the shortest amount of time without damage and repeatable results. Just a left-over habit from my days as an armourer.

I figure I can do the modification from start to finish in about an 2 hours with my tooling and holders.

But really you do not need any special tools.
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Old 09-27-2010   #20
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Well, I wonder how many brave souls out there will try this modification now? Anyone?
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Old 11-12-2010   #21
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I just use my SLR...
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Old 11-15-2010   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSU View Post
I was perusing older threads and came across this one.

I did it. I only needed to remove the rear of the lens leaving the glass module intact.

As a result of this mod I sold my ZM 50/2 Planar which became somewhat redundant in my kit. The 50/1.5 Nokton gets the job done right down to 0.7m.
Great to hear someone put this to a good use too!
I agree , this can be done with just the back of the lens off. However, if I had to do it again, I'd do it same as I originally posted, as that way you get to secure other parts of the lens to prevent wobbles, lose barrels, etc. Just turn this great lens into a much better user!

Quote:
Originally Posted by aad View Post
I just use my SLR...
I have no idea what this comment has to do with this thread. If you use SLR - what does that have to do with RF? Or do you use CV Nokton 50/1.5 on your SLR? And it makes it focus closer? I dont really get this. Many RF lenses close down to 0.7m and I posted to mod to make a very fine lens do the same. I think it would make it more useful for an RF user. What does using SLR have to do with this - no idea.
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Old 11-15-2010   #23
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The Nokton 50/1.5 is my absolute favourite lens - it would be great if someone would offer the mod as a service, as I'd be afraid of damaging the lens if I do it myself ... but it would certainly be nice to be able to focus down to .7m without sacrificing infinity focus.
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Old 08-31-2012   #24
Erik Gunst Lund
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Thanks for the tip with the modification!!!

I have recently bought a used Nokton 50mm 1.5 for my M8u.

The lens performance is fantastic for the money; Sharp, contrast, nice tones and Bokeh.

It is aparently a very nice modern design; Aspherical, coatings, floating front lens group, it is really well made all in all.

Some of the mechanical build quality is so so, as can be seen above, the focus ring transfer the rotation via a thin long T-shaped tap, so care should be taken when; mounting the LTM - M-Mount ring and when mounting the lens use only the slim ring with the aperture scale as 'grip' and when mounting filters use the front part of the lens.

Minimum focus is now modified to 0.7m as stated above, removing additional 16mm of the focus cut out does it, I used a Dremel.
This is possible due to the extra room made by the design to allow room for the fine tuning infinity adjustment of each lens, same as some MF Nikkor wide angle lenses.

My sample had a little back focus as it was stopped down, but after a careful adjustment of the lens; the build in adjustment ring under the mount and the rear shims, at infinity and close up I have reached a compromise where f/2 to f/2.8 is the sweet spot, f/4 and f/5.6 is fully acceptable and f/1.5 now has a slight front focus of about 10-15mm at 0.7m
Infinity is spot on using the night lights in Malmö, Sweden as a target, they are about 16 km away from Copenhagen...

The aperture ring had very light aperture settings so was easily knocked out of position, so i used a round needle file to make them more distinct and I added a click-stop between f/1.5 and f/2.0.

The lens is now a pleasure to shoot on the M8u, very highly recommended! Especially with the DIY modifications!

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Old 02-10-2013   #25
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It's very funny. I just did this mod last week, and today I find this:
http://www.cameraquest.com/voigt_501...on_classic.htm

It seems the people at Voigtlander/Cosina have open ears. The new version is going to be great for sure. They've added the .7m focus distance that the first version needed so bad. Build quality looks a lot better as well, and it looks like it's slightly more compact. Bravo!
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Old 02-10-2013   #26
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My notes on this modification:

First off, as the OP states, this is NOT easy. I did this with the help of a friend with 30 years experience in lens repair to whom I could ask questions as I went along.

Photographing the process will make it a lot easier to reassemble correctly. Photograph any tick marks you scribe as they may be harder to see when things are apart. The entire thing can be done from the rear, and that will make reassembly MUCH simpler.
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Next level:
Old 02-10-2013   #27
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Next level:

While the lens was apart, I took the liberty of adding a focusing tab. Now the lens focuses close, and has much improved handling.

This mod allows for slightly closer than .7m focusing... in fact, it's difficult to grind the exact amount off to get to exactly .7m. Good luck with that. My eyeballed grind erred on the close side, and my lens now focuses down to around maybe .65m. This is about as far as I think it's safe to go before you're taking too much off...

Which brings me to: The M6 (and others) actually has a little more travel in the rangefinder, if adjusted. I haven't done this yet, but I believe it will go a touch closer.

Most M3's only focus to 1 meter from the factory, and many can also be modified to focus to .7 meters. Your mileage may vary as to how far your specific body can be adjusted, but the point is that with this lens mod, you may be able to have a Leica M with a normal lens that focuses just a tad closer than you're used to.

Good luck!
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Missing important step
Old 02-10-2013   #28
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Missing important step

Deleted...
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Old 03-08-2013   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonal1 View Post
While the lens was apart, I took the liberty of adding a focusing tab. Now the lens focuses close, and has much improved handling.

This mod allows for slightly closer than .7m focusing... in fact, it's difficult to grind the exact amount off to get to exactly .7m. Good luck with that. My eyeballed grind erred on the close side, and my lens now focuses down to around maybe .65m. This is about as far as I think it's safe to go before you're taking too much off...

Which brings me to: The M6 (and others) actually has a little more travel in the rangefinder, if adjusted. I haven't done this yet, but I believe it will go a touch closer.

Most M3's only focus to 1 meter from the factory, and many can also be modified to focus to .7 meters. Your mileage may vary as to how far your specific body can be adjusted, but the point is that with this lens mod, you may be able to have a Leica M with a normal lens that focuses just a tad closer than you're used to.

Good luck!
Is it much easier to go from the back?

Also, would you mind sharing how you added the focusing tab?
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Old 03-21-2013   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classique View Post
Is it much easier to go from the back?

Also, would you mind sharing how you added the focusing tab?
It's a lot easier to understand how the lens works, and therefore how to reassemble, if you only remove as little as possible. Now that I've had it a pert a few times, I can say the lens is much simpler than it appeared while I had it disassembled from both ends.

Focusing tab: I bought a couple of tabs from heavystar on that awful auction site I can't resist. The tab has two little, well, tabs on the bottom of it. First, I slightly relieved the angle of the curve where the tab mounts with a dremel, so that it would accommodate the largish barrel of the Nokton. Then, I bored a couple of small divots in the lens barrel so that those tabs would have a place to rest—this should make the tab much stronger and less likely to loosen up with use. Then, while the barrel was apart, a hole was drilled through the tab straight through the barrel. The hole was then tapped for a small screw which was carefully countersunk into the plastic tab., and the screw end was ground flush with the inside of the lens barrel. Now, it's on there and looks like it came that way. Kind of a hassle, but worthwhile in the end. The lens handles MUCH better now. I really hated the feel of that sort of knurled focus ring.
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You may need to modify your ltm-M adapter as well...
Old 03-21-2013   #31
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You may need to modify your ltm-M adapter as well...

The Leitz ltm-M adapter I have does not allow for closer than ~.9m focusing. The adapter is relieved on the side to make way for the cam arm. If you have a body that will focus to .7m or closer, you will also have to modify the adapter to allow for close focus. I suspect some newer adapters will not need modification. The adapters I have are all set to different distances.

I'd recommend just buying the soon to be released VM version!
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Old 09-08-2017   #32
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Bump from the dead!

Im currently trying to modify my lens and taken the rear mount off, unscrewed the rear element and undid the screws holding the black shim so it's free from the focus barrel
. I cant seem to remove the black shim though, it rotates, but i cant see how it comes out so i can separate the focus barrel from everything else.

See highlighted:
That piece.

any ideas?
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Old 12-30-2018   #33
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does anyone have images or a link to the VC 35 f1.7 Ultron LTM M39 mod ?
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