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Old 11-29-2017   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaffefant View Post
I use an imagemagick.org script called "negfix8" for my negative processing: https://sites.google.com/site/negfix/

It works very good, but is very sensitive to extreme light and dark elements in the scanned frame, such as negative carrier shadow, large dust particles or sprocket holes (or clipped channels in general). I've tweaked the script a bit to fit my own scanning habits and inserted it into a batch scrip with dcraw raw conversion. This way, I can process entire folders of raw files without user intervention.
Thanks for posting the conversions. I agree, they are in the ballpark and could be corrected manually.

Can you describe what the negfix8 script does?
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Offer: Negative Strip with Test Images
Old 11-29-2017   #122
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Offer: Negative Strip with Test Images

Anyone want a strip of negatives with my test box image?

I have a few to offer. PM me with a US postal address and let me know if you would like strip of Ektar or Fuji 200. (Each strip has five images, different exposures.)
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Old 11-30-2017   #123
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Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
Thanks for posting the conversions. I agree, they are in the ballpark and could be corrected manually.

Can you describe what the negfix8 script does?
The negfix8 script does inversion of linear 16bit tiff-files, based on the theory in this (IIRC):
http://www.c-f-systems.com/Docs/Nega...iveCFS-244.pdf

This is in theory the same as the ColorPerfect plugin.

First I use dcraw to convert the raw files e.g.: dcraw -4 -T -w *.ARF
The white balance should be set so no clipping occurs in the scan. Ideally the maximum values is red > green >= blue. This gives the best results to my eye.

The script applies a logarithmic curve (or gamma-curve) to each channel, calculated from each channel's maximum and minimum values, then the image is inverted and gamma-adjusted. A contrast-stretch (auto-level) operation is optional. I've used the auto-level on the examples here.

I've modifed the script to use a more aggressive auto-level with a bit more possible clipping, as it suits my taste better, than the original version.
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Old 12-03-2017   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaffefant View Post
The negfix8 script does inversion of linear 16bit tiff-files, based on the theory in this (IIRC):
http://www.c-f-systems.com/Docs/Nega...iveCFS-244.pdf

This is in theory the same as the ColorPerfect plugin.
... snip ...
That article is an excellent read. Thanks.

Article is consistent with my experience: When I use Photoshop's straight "Invert," I can easily get highlights and shadows to look right, but everything in between is a mess. The inversion has to be quite non-linear to get the middle looking right without manual tweaking.

It was suggested here that the real test is an image with flesh tones and bright saturated colors. I think that's correct. I made a test box with bright branded items (known colors) and a Color Checker for the flesh tones. Working with that test was very educational.
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Old 01-28-2018   #125
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Followup.

I was able to get my negative run through the Nikon Digitizer on the D850. Here's the result:



No, the result is not good, seems to match the first sample I posted, simple "invert" which we know doesn't make good color. However, as we've seen here, the image (a jpg from the Digitizer) can be adjusted to good color.

Here is the thread on the Nikon Digitizer for the D850.
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Old 03-19-2018   #126
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Friends, @adriang, here on RFF, has offered another option.

His "CN-Scan-Inversion" action for Photoshop and for Affinity photo is available for a reasonable price at his web page.

I used it to open my .ARW file from Fuji 200 film. My only manual choices were 1) in Camera Raw, pick white/black to keep the histogram away from the edges, 2) sample a bit of film rebate or VERY dark shadow, 3) crop to the actual image area.

Here is the result which I think is excellent. Kodak yellow/orange and Fuji green are quite good; Coke red just a bit muted. I think this is as good as we would get from a mini-lab and that's my criteria for success in this effort.

I will now edit my summary (#62 above) to mention this action.

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Old 03-19-2018   #127
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Looks great to me. I may have to step up to Photoshop from LR.
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Old 10-11-2018   #128
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There's a new entrant, Negative Lab Pro.

A very good, almost automatic conversion for camera-scans of color neg. I've added this to my summary (#62 above).

See this thread here on RFF
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Old 01-25-2019   #129
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For those OK with making by-hand adjustments in Photoshop, this video by SamJBond has clear demo of his adjustment techniques.
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Old 05-28-2019   #130
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Small update:
- Now using a Solux 4700K bulb
- UV and Hoya RA54 "Intensifier" filters on the scan-camera
- Negative Lab Pro v 1.31 (it's a beta, but available via NLP Facebook group)
- Minor adjustments to brightness, lights, darks. Otherwise full auto.

Not perfect. Red is too saturated. Further tuning would refine it, but this shows how close we come with auto and a few choices. Happy scanning to all!

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Old 06-27-2019   #131
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Updates:

- For Lightroom, Negative Lab Pro is now at ver 2.0.0, this is a significant improvement in already great software. Now supports VueScan to DNG (including IR Cleaning) from many scanners. The rendition of color from NLP is excellent; many are using this instead of the color-neg conversion built-in to their scanner software. $99 to buy.

- For Photoshop and Affinity Photo, the plug-in "CN Scan Inversion" by @adriang, here on RFF, is now at version 2. If you have already bought, you'll have an email from Adrian. If not, here's his site. Fifteen Euro to buy.
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Old 06-27-2019   #132
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negativelabpro v2 is incredible. i dont need
to crop out the unexposed borders anymore.
3 clicks and done.
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Old 06-28-2019   #133
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https://emulsive.org/articles/negati...-film-workflow

I found a review of NegativeLabPro V2 and side-by-side comparison with Colorperfect.

Have to say, based on the above, and as a colorperfect user, I'm not sure I'll make the jump. Some of the colorperfect inversions in the article are better, imho.
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Old 06-28-2019   #134
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@albireo,

thank you so much for the link to Emulsive. What a wonderful site!! I am as well enjoying the simple, yet sophisticated system of NLP and so I particularly enjoyed reading the article comparing NLP 2.0 to ColorPerfect. Frank
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Old 06-28-2019   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albireo View Post
https://emulsive.org/articles/negati...-film-workflow

I found a review of NegativeLabPro V2 and side-by-side comparison with Colorperfect.

Have to say, based on the above, and as a colorperfect user, I'm not sure I'll make the jump. Some of the colorperfect inversions in the article are better, imho.
I'm not sure how you got that take away. That article is overwhelmingly in favour of negativelabpro, and all the side by side pics look dramatically better with nlp.
Not even close.

Each to their own!

The differences range from subtle to slap-you-in-the-face huge. Colour rendition is incredibly accurate the two examples of brickwork and stone especially. Skin tones are much more natural, colour cast is reduced/eliminated and the images are much more consistent.

FINAL THOUGHTS
If you are looking for a better or easier way to convert color and black and white negatives at home, you should try Negative Lab Pro.
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Old 06-28-2019   #136
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If I was going to choose, I'd go with Colorperfect as well. Negative Lab Pro has some color issues.
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Old 07-02-2019   #137
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In the end, it's your judgement and the results you like.

This thread has run for 18 months. In the beginning, it wasn't clear that camera-scan could get reasonable color in a nearly automatic process. I think that is now clear, and that camera-scan of color-neg is a practical alternative. Some think the options here produce better color than dedicated scanner software.

I think that your preferred post-processing environment is the biggest factor in making choices. If you like Lightroom, then it's Negative Lab Pro. If Photoshop, then there are a range of methods and tools in this long thread.

My choice at this time is NLP in LR. Different opinions and choices are perfectly OK. I will add updates here from time to time. Thank you to all who have contributed; you have helped me greatly along the way.
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Old 07-02-2019   #138
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One more update... Same file as #130 (above) now with NLP ver 2.0. The white t-shirt is now clean, no cast. Other slight improvements.

- Now using a Solux 4700K bulb
- UV filter on the scan-camera; occasionally Hoya RA54 "Intensifier"
- Negative Lab Pro v 2.0, emulating Frontier color model, PreSat=default, Standard, film=Fuji.
- Minor adjustment to brightness. Otherwise full auto.

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Old 07-02-2019   #139
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FWIW, now comes along this piece of gear.... (I have no connection with this Kickstarter and all the usual precautions should be taken):

https://www.negative.supply
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Old 07-02-2019   #140
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That looks like a nice piece of kit, hope it works out for them.
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Old 07-02-2019   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank-grumman View Post
FWIW, now comes along this piece of gear.... (I have no connection with this Kickstarter and all the usual precautions should be taken):

https://www.negative.supply
The demo video leaves questions... how is the camera + lens used with it? Why dont they show that? How do they maintain planarity between camera back and film? How is this better than the $150 Nikon ES-2 which is super easy,quick and maintains planarity as it is directly attached to the lens?
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Old 07-02-2019   #142
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The demo video leaves questions... how is the camera + lens used with it? Why dont they show that? How do they maintain planarity between camera back and film? How is this better than the $150 Nikon ES-2 which is super easy,quick and maintains planarity as it is directly attached to the lens?
Well, you know the answers They make it like holding the film was the only thing holding people back with camera scanning.

And how do you insert a single frame?
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Old 07-03-2019   #143
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The price cracks me up. And they say it is going to be more after the kickstarter! Kinda pricey for a simple box with gears inside. And I seriously doubt it will hold the film flat enough.

I think the best solution I've seen so far was from that Hamish guy at 35mmc (I think). I don't remember what it was called, but a piece of frosted plexi with strips to hold down the neg. Seemed like an elegant simple solution. I wonder what happened with those.
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Old 07-03-2019   #144
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PRJ, that'd be Hamish Gill, publisher of that site. He appears to have carried out a review of the Kickstarter unit. I'm uniformly wary of Kickstarter's, given there is no guarantee items proposed for the market will ever get there. And not to mention there is no guarantee that whatever funds may have been contributed will ever get back to the donor, at least if I read correctly Kick's TOS. I may however be wrong on that, and if so, in advance, I stand corrected.
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Old 09-11-2019   #145
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Here's a general good practice for converting color-negatives with Negative Lab Pro. I suspect this tip is also valid for other conversion methods.

A number of users have reported getting unwanted casts across their frame. Most of the examples have a bright element in the image (bright sky, lit match, the sun, specular reflection). NLP tries to make that element clean white, and this may throw things off throughout the image. Remedy: Crop to exclude such elements, convert and adjust to taste, click Apply, then re-crop to desired framing. By doing so, the NLP image analysis considers only the areas within the crop.

Similarly, if there is no black in the image area, include a bit of the unexposed film and set "Border" to zero. This gives NLP something to make black.

Other points:
- Use a high K and high CRI light source
- You can ETTR, but stay well below the top (non-linearities arise near the top)
- Avoid vignetting (darker areas around edge of cam-scan file, become brighter in converted positive image). Check that your illumination is even.
- Watch exposure and stray light. Mask around the image area. If using a long exposure, darken the room to eliminate room light reflections off the film.

There is an active "Group" for "Negative Lab Pro" on Facebook. Similarly, an active group for "Digitizing Film with a Digital Camera".
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #146
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I've done a test of a number of back-light sources for camera-scanning of color negatives, doing the conversions in Negative Lab Pro, my current go-to.

Results and comments are in "Negative Lab Pro" group on Facebook (ask to join) or at this link where anyone can read: Forums.NegativeLabPro.com (probably have to scroll down to the bottom of this page)

A couple of top-line comments:
- Light panels can be good (e.g. Kaiser).
- Current iPhones and iPad are excellent, bringing out very vivid reds
- Avoid the cheap (e.g. $30) light panels.
- Video lights are all good and give you much shorter exposures than light panels

Hope this is helpful.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank-grumman View Post
FWIW, now comes along this piece of gear.... (I have no connection with this Kickstarter and all the usual precautions should be taken):

https://www.negative.supply
Interesting piece of gear. Expensive. Built like a tank and precise. Film aperture just slightly generous, so you get a little bit of unexposed film. The path bends the film to improve flatness.

I like that it's heavy; once in place, it won't move around.

Longer the strip of film the better. Four frames is probably a practical minimum; no way I can see to get a single frame into position and back out.
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Raw Therapee
Old 4 Weeks Ago   #148
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Raw Therapee

I'm regular user of Raw therapee , it turns out that latest version offers negative tool , has any one tried that yet?
It requires Raw capture of negative image, it does basic conversion with orange mask automaticaly removed.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #149
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Friends -

While I've gone over entirely to using Negative Lab Pro and LR, I watch for alternative methods. This just popped up in the active FB group "Digitizing film with a digital camera."

Scripts and methods for converting cam-scan of color-neg with ImageMagick:

Fred's scripts #Negative2Positive

Jaz99's #negfix8

Photrio thread with Simple Film Lab's Adrian Bacon comments:
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