Go Back   Rangefinderforum.com > Cameras / Gear / Photography > Rangefinder Forum > Image Processing: Darkroom / Lightroom / Film

Image Processing: Darkroom / Lightroom / Film Discuss Image processing -- traditional darkoom or digital lightroom here. Notice there are subcategories to narrow down subject matter. .

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

Seasonal developing adjustments
Old 08-07-2019   #1
dfranklin
Registered User
 
dfranklin is offline
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cambridge, MA, USA
Age: 43
Posts: 101
Seasonal developing adjustments

At this time of year, the coldest water that comes out of my tap is about 76 F. So, if I use my normal 68 process for film development, I have to be very careful in the wash stage, slowly bringing cooled water up to 76 before washing the film in running water.

The alternative is to use chemistry at 76 (easy enough, because this also happens to be the ambient temperature in my darkroom at this time of year), and adjust my development time accordingly.

I've tried both methods, and have found the results of the higher-temp process to be acceptable. It's a lot more convenient to work at the same temperature as my tap water, so I think that's the way I'll do it in the hot months from now on.

I'm just wondering whether others make seasonal adjustments to their developing process?
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-07-2019   #2
Bingley
Registered User
 
Bingley's Avatar
 
Bingley is offline
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 5,725
I develop a lot using diafine in the summer. Like you, my tap water is pretty warm. If I use another developer that is more temp sensitive, I put the graduates in the fridge to cool down while I load film on reels.
__________________
Steve

FS: Zeiss-ZM Planar 50 plus hood, Pentax MX, Voigtlander Ultron 40/2.0 SLII in Pentax K-mount, Takumar 100/2.8 and 35/3.5 lenses: See my ads in Classifieds

M3, M2, R2A, IIIc, IVSB2, & T, and assorted LTM & M lenses
Minolta XD11, Pentax ME Super, and assorted MD Rokkor and Takumar lenses, Rolleicord III, Rolleicord Vb, Rolleiflex Automat MX-EVS

My Flickr
My Gallery
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-07-2019   #3
giganova
Registered User
 
giganova is offline
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,432
I thought about this today, too: tap water is 76 F, so I put two ice cubes into the graduate when I mix the developer to bring the temp down to 68 F. However, that's not enough: the developing tank and ambient air are also 76 F, and the temp of the developer rises during the developing time, so I reduce it by one minute (9 min instead of the usual 10 min at 68 F) to compensate. That gives me perfect negatives.

I don't care about the temp of the stop bath, fixer and wash. They are all at room temp and I never had a problem with that. Doesn't seem to make any difference at all.
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-07-2019   #4
charjohncarter
Registered User
 
charjohncarter's Avatar
 
charjohncarter is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Danville, CA, USA
Posts: 8,816
I use ice to cool down my development, stop, fixer, and hypo clear in the Summer. In the winter I heat the water at the tap. I like the idea for putting the warm Summer water in the refrig until 68 degrees.
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-08-2019   #5
KenR
Registered User
 
KenR is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 695
Im an ice cube guy. My water just went over 70 degrees so I cool it down tO 68 with ice cubes prior to processing. I dont adjust times as I assume that things dont change that much in the 8-12 minutes that I usually use for processing.
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-08-2019   #6
Timmyjoe
Registered User
 
Timmyjoe's Avatar
 
Timmyjoe is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 3,025
Once my developer and fixer are mixed, they go into the freezer until they are at 67F in the summer (the time in the development tank raises the temp to 68F or 69F). I'm fortunate that my tap water (used for stop & wash) will get to 68F if I let it run long enough.

For B&W processing, I'm not sure the temps have to be quite this accurate.

Best,
-Tim
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-08-2019   #7
css9450
Registered User
 
css9450's Avatar
 
css9450 is offline
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,972
When summertime arrives, I bring my chemicals and a couple big jugs of water into work with me and put them on the floor in the office. Fortunately for me, the boss likes to keep the offices cool and the AC runs often; the containers on the floor are consistently about 68.5 to 69 degrees.

About the tap water: I am curious now since I've never checked how cool it comes out. Its easy to moderate at 68-70 degrees though.... I might check today since I have my thermometer handy.
__________________
Nikon S2, S3, F, F2, F3, FM2, FA, N90S, D80, D7000, D750, Sony a6000, Canon IIf, Leica CL, Tower type 3, Zorki 4, Vito B, Perkeo II, Rollei 35....
  Reply With Quote

Seasonal Developing Adjustments
Old 08-08-2019   #8
DennisM
Registered User
 
DennisM is offline
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 57
Seasonal Developing Adjustments

In my case, i process B&W film in a basement darkroom in NJ. My process Summer or Winter is to fill an 11x14 tray with water and adjust temp with ice cubes or hot water until it is at 68 degrees; once there it remains essentially constant for the remainder of the processing time. Then chemicals (developer, stop bath, fixer, and first rinse) are mixed in plastic beakers which are placed in the tray; I use Ilford Rapid Fixer which is a liquid. Temps in the chemicals are adjusted to 68 degrees with ice cubes and/or hot water in plastic baggies; individual thermometers and stirrers in each beaker. After processing, I follow Ilford recommended wash instructions: fill tank with water three times, and agitate 5, 10, and 20 inversions; this supposedly provides long term protection for negatives. In addition, I use the 11x14 tray water for additional wash cycles; in cooler months, I remove the tank cover and wash for an additional 5-10 minutes with tap water which I can adjust to temperature (68 degrees) at the tap. Note that I use a stainless steel tank which is placed in the 11x14 tray between agitation cycles. No issues in over 20 years.
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 19:04.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.