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Old 02-06-2014   #41
Dez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goamules View Post
I like the Canon quality (and all Japanese of that era). Since we're comparing intangibles, let's not forget the very tangible prices.

Canon 35/2 - $400
Leica 35/2 - $1500
An important point, that. There appear to be some fortunate folk on the list for whom cost is no object. Sadly, I am not in that group.

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Old 02-06-2014   #42
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I had the Canon 35/2 twice so far, and I let them go to others.
The OOF is better looking in the V1 Summmicron than in this Canon lens, and it is much better built.
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Old 02-06-2014   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goamules View Post
I like the Canon quality (and all Japanese of that era). Since we're comparing intangibles, let's not forget the very tangible prices.

Canon 35/2 - $400
Leica 35/2 - $1500
An important point, that. There appear to be some fortunate folk on the list for whom cost is no object. Sadly, I am not in that group.

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Old 02-06-2014   #44
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I had the Canon 35/2 twice so far, and I let them go to others.
The OOF is better looking in the V1 Summmicron than in this Canon lens, and it is much better built.
And 4 times more expensive. A Ferrari is faster and better looking too, but I like my Miata. How do you measure "much better built?" The delicate stippling of the metal? The more clickable click stops of the aperture? I just don't get "much better built" when comparing German to Japanese lenses. My Canons and Nikkors are as well made or better than any Leica I've handled.

Are you saying just the black Canon 35/2, or ALL Canons are "much worse built?"

On OOF, didn't you shoot a comparison of these two? Can you post it so we can see if we agree that the OOF is "better looking"?

I'm just trying to justify why someone would pay 4 times more for a similar lens. Is the build and OOF 4 times better?
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Old 02-06-2014   #45
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And 4 times more expensive. A Ferrari is faster and better looking too, but I like my Miata. How do you measure "much better built?" The delicate stippling of the metal? The more clickable click stops of the aperture? I just don't get "much better built" when comparing German to Japanese lenses. My Canons and Nikkors are as well made or better than any Leica I've handled.

Are you saying just the black Canon 35/2, or ALL Canons are "much worse built?"
I guess I sort of have the same questions regarding a true comparison between these lenses. I briefly handled the Canon years ago and it seemed quite nice. But then I think Voigtlanders are nice too. I suppose I'll never know what I'm missing, but I do react skeptically to most posts that don't include some sort of personal experience-based analytical comparison. So does anyone here have both the Canon and an older version of the Summicron? If so, could you describe your comparative experiences with them? Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 02-06-2014   #46
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I guess I sort of have the same questions regarding a true comparison between these lenses. I briefly handled the Canon years ago and it seemed quite nice. But then I think Voigtlanders are nice too. I suppose I'll never know what I'm missing, but I do react skeptically to most posts that don't include some sort of personal experience-based analytical comparison. So does anyone here have both the Canon and an older version of the Summicron? If so, could you describe your comparative experiences with them? Thanks ahead of time.
Oops... never mind. I just went back through the thread and found what I was looking for.
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Old 02-06-2014   #47
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And 4 times more expensive. A Ferrari is faster and better looking too, but I like my Miata. How do you measure "much better built?" The delicate stippling of the metal? The more clickable click stops of the aperture? I just don't get "much better built" when comparing German to Japanese lenses. My Canons and Nikkors are as well made or better than any Leica I've handled.

Are you saying just the black Canon 35/2, or ALL Canons are "much worse built?"

On OOF, didn't you shoot a comparison of these two? Can you post it so we can see if we agree that the OOF is "better looking"?

I'm just trying to justify why someone would pay 4 times more for a similar lens. Is the build and OOF 4 times better?
I prefer the Ferrari to the Miata in cars, even though I have neither of these cars.

The bokeh of the 8 element V1 Summicron is extremely pleasant. I was fortunate to get thus lens over twenty years ago for a low price (for these days). It was my first RF 35mm lens.

You can browse through hundreds of posted images by photographers with these two lenses on flickr.
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Old 12-14-2014   #48
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I am trading my Canon 35/2 (plus cash) towards a Nikkor 35/1.8, which is a different animal. I have the 8 element Summicron 35/2, so I am happy with that lens. The Canon was hardly ever used by me.
I bought a Canon35/2 yesterday. I want to use it thoroughly this time.
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Old 12-15-2014   #49
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Let us know how do it compare to your 35/1.8. Thanks
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I bought a Canon35/2 yesterday. I want to use it thoroughly this time.
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Old 12-15-2014   #50
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Let us know how do it compare to your 35/1.8. Thanks
+1!

comparison of 35mm LTM Canons can be found here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...d.php?t=146172
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Old 12-15-2014   #51
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Does anybody know the serial number cut-off between Version 1 and Version 2 of the Canon 35mm f2?
According to Peter Kitchingman's book on Canon RF lenses, version 2 of the 35/2.0 lens begins w/ serial no. 37237. The lettering on the i.d. ring is also a little different on version 2; it says "CANON" in caps, instead of "Canon Camera Co. Inc.".

There are some reports on the web that Canon tweaked the lens design slightly between ver. 1 and 2, but Kitchingham's book does not mention this.
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Old 12-15-2014   #52
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I bought a Canon35/2 yesterday. I want to use it thoroughly this time.
Looking forward to your photos with this lens, Raid.
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Old 12-17-2014   #53
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Thank you, Steve. I got the lens an hour ago. It is now on my M9.
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Old 12-17-2014   #54
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And you haven't posted a picture taken with it yet?
C'mon man.
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Old 12-18-2014   #55
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I shot a Canon 35/1.8 a lot for years. Finally got a 35/2.0 about a year ago. Yes, it's sharp, contrasty, and boring. I went back to the 1.8.
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Old 12-14-2015   #56
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(Both wide open on a Leica M9)

Here is a shot with the Canon 35/1.8 wide open in an underground parking:

CanonLTM35mmf1.8-Chinatown-LA13-1 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr

Here is a shot of a space module model at JPL with the Summicron 35/2 Version 1 (8 elements):

Galileo by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
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Old 02-10-2016   #57
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As I recall back in the 1990's I bought a Canon 35/2.0 C-mount movie camera lens in like new condition for $35. Of course when I unscrewed the adapter on it I had a Canon 35/2.0 LTM lens. Cool!
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Old 07-20-2016   #58
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A comparison between canon 35mm f/2 ltm with 35mm summicron pre-asph here:
http://forum.xitek.com/forum-viewthr...461900184.html
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Old 11-12-2016   #59
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I have obtained a very nice example of this lens, but it has some greasy aperture blades. Does anybody have any tips to get there? I've googled etc. but can't find a repair guide on this (beautifully made)lens...
Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-13-2016   #60
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Accessing the blades from the rear is pretty easy. First unscrew this ring with a lens spanner:


Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr

Then unscrew the rear element group with your fingers:


Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr

The rear side of the blades is now exposed. To access the front you'll need to remove the name ring:


Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr

The name ring is more difficult if you don't have the right rubber tool to grab it, but you can probably clean the blades adequately enough from the rear. Dab some lighter fluid on with a cotton swab, work the blades, and dry them off with some tissue, and repeat several times until the oil is no longer visible.
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Old 11-13-2016   #61
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@Peter: thank you so much for the clear explanation and pictures-most helpfull!
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Old 01-22-2017   #62
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Sorry for resurrecting the thread. I have a (pretty beat) first version of the 35/2 that came with a wiggle between the optical block and barrel (though I didn't complain since I got it relatively cheap). Could there an obvious (though not to me) problem? I've tried tightening the retaining ring, but it's sitting pretty firmly already and doesn't look to be the issue.
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Old 01-23-2017   #63
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Some back and forth play while focusing can be normal with some Canon lenses in my experience. Usually it's related to the focus helical and mount - not the optical block. I would loosen the retaining ring and remove the optical block to check for some kind of damage.
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Old 01-23-2017   #64
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I honestly think the lens is overrated and its reputation as a "Japanese Summicron" was from when there were a lot less alternatives to Leica LTM / M mount lenses... i.e. prior to modern Voigtlander / Zeiss LTM / M lenses.
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Old 01-23-2017   #65
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I got one of these a month ago and would like to put a hood and UV filter on it since I sometimes shoot in dirty/hazardous conditions. What, if anything, works with this lens?
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Old 01-23-2017   #66
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The Fuji's X10 & X20 have the awkward 40mm filter thread-search for Fuji X10 /X20 hood or UV filter on eBay...(Canon never producer a lens hood for the 35mn F2)
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Old 01-23-2017   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsrockit View Post
I honestly think the lens is overrated and its reputation as a "Japanese Summicron" was from when there were a lot less alternatives to Leica LTM / M mount lenses... i.e. prior to modern Voigtlander / Zeiss LTM / M lenses.
At one third or less of a cost of a user (and I mean "user" in eBay speak) "German Summicron" and half the size of ZM Biogon 2/35... I wonder how bad this overrated "Japanese Summicron" really is...
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Old 01-23-2017   #68
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Sorry, I didn't mean it was bad just overrated in comparison to the nick name. That said, I'll take that biogon every single time.
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Old 01-23-2017   #69
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This is why there are many flavors of ice cream. I have shot my 35 f2.0 and it's a bit too contrasty compared with my 50 1.5 Canon and 85 2.8 Super Rokkor. But I like the lower contrast of an uncoated Elmar 35 or Summar. Just goes to show everybody's taste is different. The ultimate test is - does it make photos you like? If so, it's a good lens. If not, it's not.
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Old 01-23-2017   #70
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The ultimate test is - does it make photos you like? If so, it's a good lens. If not, it's not.
Yep .. .. ..
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Old 01-23-2017   #71
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I got one of these a month ago and would like to put a hood and UV filter on it since I sometimes shoot in dirty/hazardous conditions. What, if anything, works with this lens?
I've had a Canon 35/2.0 for about five years now and have shot extensively with it. It's a beautiful lens (mine is the later version) and I love the way it renders b&w in particular. Like you, I want to protect the front element, so I always use a filter. The front element is deeply enough recessed that I've never felt the need to use a hood, though, and I've never had a problem with flare in that lens (unlike the 35/1.8 I once owned).

The 40mm filter thread is a PITA, though. So, for my Canon RF lenses w/ 40 mm filter threads, I use a 40-43mm step-up ring, which I think you can still purchase from Heavystar's Ebay store, and then use 43mm filters which are easily available. The step-up ring also gives you a little additional protection from flare, further reducing the need for a hood.

You can check out my flickr page; I have an album devoted to photos with the Canon 35/2.0, and you can see that some of those photos were taken in pretty harsh light. I've never used a hood on that lens.
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Old 01-23-2017   #72
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Some back and forth play while focusing can be normal with some Canon lenses in my experience. Usually it's related to the focus helical and mount - not the optical block. I would loosen the retaining ring and remove the optical block to check for some kind of damage.
Peter,

Thanks for your pictures above that show how to get to the aperture etc.
My lens has the wobble too and it slightly affects focus (tested on my A7). It annoys the heck out of me

Would it help if I added a little to the brass shim ring shown in picture no.2? Or do I really need to add new grease to the helical to remedy the wobble?

Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2017   #73
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Peter,

Thanks for your pictures above that show how to get to the aperture etc.
My lens has the wobble too and it slightly affects focus (tested on my A7). It annoys the heck out of me

Would it help if I added a little to the brass shim ring shown in picture no.2? Or do I really need to add new grease to the helical to remedy the wobble?

Thanks!
How much does it affect focus? Is it something that would bother someone not shooting test targets? I suddenly regret giving away my NEX to my little brother, at least I could check


As far as the filter/hood goes, there have already been several mentions of Fuji X10/X20 accessories using 40mm threads. The designation for the hood (two part, circular, vented) is LH-JX10. It has a 52mm filter thread that is recessed to the back of the hood. Works nice for color filters and whatnot, but won't prevent dust getting under it, courtesy of the vents. Have bought a cheap knockoff, but haven't tried it yet, so can't tell if it vignettes or not.

Looks like this: http://tokyocamerastyle.com/post/152...l-35mm-f2-lens
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Old 01-24-2017   #74
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How much does it affect focus? Is it something that would bother someone not shooting test targets? I suddenly regret giving away my NEX to my little brother, at least I could check


As far as the filter/hood goes, there have already been several mentions of Fuji X10/X20 accessories using 40mm threads. The designation for the hood (two part, circular, vented) is LH-JX10. It has a 52mm filter thread that is recessed to the back of the hood. Works nice for color filters and whatnot, but won't prevent dust getting under it, courtesy of the vents. Have bought a cheap knockoff, but haven't tried it yet, so can't tell if it vignettes or not.

Looks like this: http://tokyocamerastyle.com/post/152...l-35mm-f2-lens
Sure would. I estimate the wobble throws focus off by two, three inches when focused 3 ft away. Just enough to ruin a possible fine shot if the lens is used wide open.

Plus, it's simply annoying to have a 1932 Leica II and a 2003 nickel Heliar that are tight as a drum, and a sloppy feeling 35mm lens to go with them...
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Old 01-24-2017   #75
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I've never actually traced the exact cause of the "loose" feeling because it's never bothered me too much. I believe I also noticed a wobble in a chrome 35/2.8 that I used to own. And some of the 50/1.8 lenses I've had. I don't think damping with grease would solve the issue. As I recall, the issue isn't the focus helical itself, but the somewhat complex transfer mechanism between the focus helical and the rf flange. I'm sure there is someone around here who knows more about it than I do.
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Old 01-24-2017   #76
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I've never actually traced the exact cause of the "loose" feeling because it's never bothered me too much. I believe I also noticed a wobble in a chrome 35/2.8 that I used to own. And some of the 50/1.8 lenses I've had. I don't think damping with grease would solve the issue. As I recall, the issue isn't the focus helical itself, but the somewhat complex transfer mechanism between the focus helical and the rf flange. I'm sure there is someone around here who knows more about it than I do.
Thanks Peter. I went in since I had some time to spare and while I cannot really say what I did, the lens is back together, the focus is correct and the wobble greatly reduced.

It seems there is a bit of play between the outer and inner part of the helical and I feel some lithium grease might solve the wobble, but for now I'll take the current half a millimeter play.

My Jupiter-12 is on the shelf and the Canon in the bag now, taking it out for a walk tomorrow
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Old 07-25-2017   #77
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When I choose a lens, size&weight is actually a very important factor. That's why I like this lens and 35mm Summilux pre-asph so much.
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Old 07-25-2017   #78
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I just purchased this lens on RFF classifieds for $200... It really feels well made, contrary to what I’ve read elsewhere.... I think it will make images, mine has a tiny bit of haze, but otherwise looks okay. It feels like a tiny gem. Tomorrow I’ll be getting an adapter ring from B&H, but I need to get a viewfinder for it to use it on my M3. Otherwise, I’ll just use it on my Bessa-L. Anyway... I hope it wasn’t a waste of money, we’ll see when I get some film back!
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Old 07-25-2017   #79
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I just purchased this lens on RFF classifieds for $200... It really feels well made, contrary to what Iíve read elsewhere.... I think it will make images, mine has a tiny bit of haze, but otherwise looks okay. It feels like a tiny gem. Tomorrow Iíll be getting an adapter ring from B&H, but I need to get a viewfinder for it to use it on my M3. Otherwise, Iíll just use it on my Bessa-L. Anyway... I hope it wasnít a waste of money, weíll see when I get some film back!

That sounds like a decent deal. Just don't expect much from it wide open. F2.8 is much more acceptable with uniformly good performance across the frame byf4.

Use it on your Bessa before you sink more money into getting a VF for the M3. My copy stays on my Leotax F.
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Old 07-26-2017   #80
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the 35 f2 canon is sweeeet !
Compact, well built. inexpensive
I LOVE mine... though in general I prefer a 50 to 35
Miss Canon does the job well ... below on HP5

url=https://flic.kr/p/UUE69X][/url]

Light that Blinds ...
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