What shall I order as least oxidation prone developer?
Old 05-06-2016   #1
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What shall I order as least oxidation prone developer?

After ruining several rolls with expired Fomadon R09 and Perceptol (which is very short life developer), what shall I order for me as a next developer. I would prefer powder as I will order from another country. It is not easy to find a store selling that stuff in Turkey anymore.

As I shoot sporadically, I want something non-prone to oxidation which shouldnt exhaust easily. I really loved real Rodinal which lasted years and you use literally drops to develop. Unfortunately now I know that R09 is not like that although it gives similar development results.
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Old 05-06-2016   #2
papaki
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D-76 can be kept in powder form for years. So does X-Tol.
Once diluted D-76 has to be used within months, X-Tol can last for a year (I have mine for eight months and still works).
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Old 05-06-2016   #3
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HC-110 is the gold standard for long life. Although a liquid, it is very economical and lasts for years. I divide a litre bottle into 4 smaller bottles and it has never once let me down even when the colour changes to brown. Like you, I do not develop film as often as I would like to, so using it one shot and discarding suits me fine. I measure mine with a syringe and then wash out the excess into the working solution. It is much easier than using a measuring cylinder as the concentrate is very thick.
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Old 05-06-2016   #4
znapper
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I second HC-110, it's a very good developer.

"Proper" Rodinal (make research to get the right one) also keeps for very long, mine is 4 years old now, dark and muddy but still works just fine.
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Old 05-06-2016   #5
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Tmax Developer lasts a very long time once opened. Its a liquid, and kind of expensive, but it is one of my favorite developers. Especially good for Tmax 400, Delta 400, and Delta 3200.
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Old 05-06-2016   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by znapper View Post
I second HC-110, it's a very good developer.

"Proper" Rodinal (make research to get the right one) also keeps for very long, mine is 4 years old now, dark and muddy but still works just fine.

Which is the right one? Adonol (the final version made by Agfa), APH-09 (the prewar formula from East Germany), or the Fomadon version?
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Old 05-06-2016   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto View Post
Which is the right one? Adonol (the final version made by Agfa), APH-09 (the prewar formula from East Germany), or the Fomadon version?
Fomadon is exausted after a couple of years. It could last longer if I kept it at a colder and drker place though.

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Old 05-06-2016   #8
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how is Ilfosol 3? I found it in a local market.
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Old 05-06-2016   #9
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Not just oxidation prone, but color indication of it being bad.

I scratch mix D76 for 2 decades now. Decant to four oz bottles which makes 8 oz of D76 1:1, perfect for one roll in stainless tank. Specialty bottle company.

It turns brownish as it goes bad. Never leave in partially full bottle. Careful tests show it lasts 6 months and then starts to go bad slowly.

DD X and Xtol do not turn and you never know until the roll is very low contrast.
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Old 05-06-2016   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaFoReVer View Post
how is Ilfosol 3? I found it in a local market.
Ilfosol 3 is a great developer, but it does not keep well once opened.
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Old 05-06-2016   #11
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Let me add DD-X to the list. It always seems to work, even in a partially filled old bottle. And besides, I love the negatives I get with it. It's good for pushing and/or getting higher effective speed, and for tonality as well.
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Old 05-06-2016   #12
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DD-X isnt a common developer I suppose Rob?

As a rule of thumb probably fine grain developers are prone to get exhausted faster. Is that right?

Examples, Ilfosol 3, Perceptol etc.
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Old 05-06-2016   #13
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If you buy some raw chemicals you can make your own developers as and when you need. Since most raw chemicals are powder, they'll be quite fine for a very long time so long you keep them in glass bottles.

Very similar recipes (, with almost identical results,) for
- Perceptol (for finest grain and slow speed),
- ID-11/D-76 (for gen. purpose) and
- Microphen/ID-68 (for speed increasing) developers,
and many similar recipes are publicly available. But I mention those three assuming you'd like to stick to the ones you've used.

The only additional things you'll need are
- a small digital scale that can measure as low as 0.01 gram and up to 200-500 grams. That shouldn't cost you more than 10 USD with shipping!
- a mask (very cheap from the local pharmacist shop)
It's incredibly easy to make.

I spent about $40 to get my raw chemicals (that included 500 grams of Metol). Now I can make Perceptol, Beutler, and H76 (D76H) Haist (<- D-76 type outcome but a recipe without Hydroquinone) any time I want without worryin about them going bad. I will probably spend another $20-40 to buy some hydroquinone and phenidone when I finish my stock of HC-110 and Microphen.

Bests,

Ashfaque
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Old 05-06-2016   #14
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Volume users here have no problems and will swear by their favorite developer.
The rest of us occasional users would wind up throwing away half of it.
Like others I suggest you stick to HC110 and Rodinal.

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Old 05-07-2016   #15
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In a local market I found hc110 (quite expensive though 1kg 35$) but it has an expiry date of 01.2017. Shall I worry about it?

How is ID-11same as d76? It says it has 6 months shelf life.
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Old 05-07-2016   #16
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I believe HC-110 would keep well in a fridge after opening. I have kept some Ilford LC-29 which is similar for years after opening this way and it is still working well. ID-11 is very close to D76. You mix it from two packs, not one like D76. I believe the end result is very much the same. I have kept ID-11 in 300ml bottles for 6 months in a dark area over an Australian summer (up to 20 degrees celsius in the darkroom) and it is still working fine. In fact I think it is better with some re-use and age: seasoned.
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Old 05-07-2016   #17
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I keep my Hc-bottle in room temperature (with the cap on), I pour out around 250ml (1/4 off the bottle) to a smaller glass-bottle because it's easier to measure out from it.

Hc will keep "forever", no need to chill it at all, just keep that cap on the original bottle.
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Old 05-07-2016   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaFoReVer View Post
As I shoot sporadically, I want something non-prone to oxidation which shouldnt exhaust easily. I really loved real Rodinal which lasted years and you use literally drops to develop. Unfortunately now I know that R09 is not like that although it gives similar development results.
If you've loved Rodinal, then just continue to use it: The original formula is now produced by Adox, they have the recipe and the brand rights.
Fotoimpex is shipping internationally:
https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/chem...ncentrate.html
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Old 05-08-2016   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaFoReVer View Post
In a local market I found hc110 (quite expensive though 1kg 35$) but it has an expiry date of 01.2017. Shall I worry about it?
Yes, HC-110 is relatively more expensive than most developers*. But it's output and keeping property (mostly due to the lack of water in it) are worth every penny.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaFoReVer View Post
How is ID-11same as d76? It says it has 6 months shelf life.
As for the difference between ID-11 and D-76, check teh followings:
http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?...vs-id11.61798/
http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photogr...rs/devID11.htm


Both (and others like Microphen/ID-68, Perceptol and the like) can be stored a bit longer (probably 9+ months), provided you keep them in airtight bottles with the least amount of air and in a relatively cool environment, and away from direct light.

You can also get rid off the air using butane (lighter gas), argon (expensive stuff mainly due to the cylinder), Tetenal's Protectan, or something similar. The cheapest is butane gas, which I use with my SPUR chemicals (HRX and Acurol-N). You can use them with Rodinal and HC-110 bottles too.

As for Rodinal: If you want the 'proper' version get Adox's Rodnial/Adonal, instead of Compard R09 or something else. From what I read on APUG, and a few other forums, the difference, in terms of output, is almost non-existent. Adox's Adonal/Rodinal probably has a better keeping properties.

Bests,

Ashfaque

* = expensive as a price of 1 ltr bottle compare to the other 1ltr dev. pack ( - DD-X, T-Max Dev., & others). But it is one of the cheapest when you develop films in Dilution B or lower. I should've clarified this point.
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Old 05-08-2016   #20
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DD-X isnt a common developer I suppose Rob?
It's not hard to find. I get mine from B&H, usually along with a shipment of film and other supplies. I suppose some local stores may stock it, although our stores in St. Louis don't seem to.
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Old 05-08-2016   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob-F View Post
Let me add DD-X to the list. It always seems to work, even in a partially filled old bottle. And besides, I love the negatives I get with it. It's good for pushing and/or getting higher effective speed, and for tonality as well.
DD-X is what I use now, given limited choices that there are here in Australia, it seems good enough/cheap enough for me.

Is there any way to identify when DD-X is on the way out? It doesn't change appearance AFAIK? I don't intend to leave it standing around to find out, just curious, especially after the crushing disappointment of a blank roll from expired Ilfosol 3 yesterday.
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Old 05-08-2016   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papaki View Post
D-76 can be kept in powder form for years. So does X-Tol.
Once diluted D-76 has to be used within months, X-Tol can last for a year (I have mine for eight months and still works).
I use D76 and keep it for about one year. No problems. I make 3.8 l from one package at a time and keep it in empty mineral mater bottles, in a dark place.
I also do not shoot much; I need 200 ml per film, thus 19 films for the gallon.

If I needed still less, Ilford ID11 is basically the same and can be bought in 1 and 2.5 liter units. But D76 is cheaper (at least where I get it from).
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Old 05-09-2016   #23
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I bought locally ID-11 and Ilford fixer. And from Macodirect site, I bought 100ft rollei RPX100 bulk film and two bottles of Compard R09 125cc.

Was it a good choice? will Rollei be good with R09? will R09 hold long time? or like fomadon it expires after 1-2 years?

Fotoimpex has Agfa apx 100 and people says it is grainy with rodinal so I chose rollei and R09. Please comment.

Definetely my next developer will be HC110...
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Old 05-18-2016   #24
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As mentioned before: Adox R09 is the original Rodinal one-shot, and lasts forever and then some.

Powder based developers like Kodak D76 and XTOL, Ilford ID-11, Perceptol & Microphen, and so on last pretty much forever before mixing. If you buy 1 liter bags, you can save up a few rolls, then use the whole batch at once. (Biggest disadvantage of XTOL is that it's only available in 5L bags, although I've heard that Fomadon Excel is pretty much the same stuff, and can be had in 1L bags).

Another option that lasts forever is Diafine. Not only keeps well, but it's pretty much endlessly re-usable (you lose a small bit of liquid each roll, but as long as you have enough to fill a tank, you can use it). But the suitability of Diafine depends heavily on your film and what you intend to do with the negatives.
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Old 05-18-2016   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob-F View Post
Let me add DD-X to the list. It always seems to work, even in a partially filled old bottle. And besides, I love the negatives I get with it. It's good for pushing and/or getting higher effective speed, and for tonality as well.
I am using a bottle of DD-X that is going on two years opened, and shows no sign of failing.
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Old 05-19-2016   #26
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Fotoimpex has Agfa apx 100 and people says it is grainy with rodinal so I chose rollei and R09. Please comment.
You mean Agfa APX 100 New?
Well, that film is just re-labelled Kentmere 100. Yes, it is a grainy film compared to its competitors.
Same is valid for Rollei RPX 100, which is very similar to Kentmere 100 (and also made by Harman technology / Ilford Photo).
And concerning grain and these budget / lower quality films (you get what you pay for) it doesn't matter whether you develop them in HC-110 or in Rodinal.

If you want finer grain and higher resolution and a classic cubic crystal film than use Adox Silvermax, which significantly surpasses APX New, Kentmere 100 and RPX 100.

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