Old 02-08-2019   #761
mike rosenlof
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I've posted this elsewhere on RFF, it is a scan of a wet print. Self portrait from last summer. Mamiya 645, probably the 80/1.8 lens.



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Old 02-17-2019   #762
Erik van Straten
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Nikkormat FTn, Nikkor H Auto 50mm f/2, TriX, printed on Adox MCC 110.

Erik.

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Old 02-18-2019   #763
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Leica M3, Summilux 50mm f/1.4 v2, Tmax400, prnted on Adox MCC 400.

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Old 03-14-2019   #764
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Rolleiflex T, Ilford FP4+, Ilford Classic FB 16"x 16" (40x40 cm) Family travel portrait
Reykjavik

IMG_8086 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/[/url], on Flickr
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Old 03-15-2019   #765
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Smena8m, svema64. Circa 1990. Print on record-rapid rrs119
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Old 04-06-2019   #766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Straten View Post



Do you guys see a difference in sharpness between this picture and the one above? I see a big difference.

This is what Flickr is doing to me.

Erik.
I see what you mean. My guess is they may be using a faster/cruder downsizing algorithm on the "live" server. They are in the process of migrating servers. Hopefully this is temporary, but who ever knows with Flickr, since they have no user support.
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Old 04-06-2019   #767
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A strange fact is that a friend of me, also in The Netherlands, seems not to be infected by this unsharpness on Flickr.


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Old 04-11-2019   #768
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I deleted all the pics that are infected by this unsharpness.

Strange that the pictures I've posted in february and before are still sharp.

Erik
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Old 04-11-2019   #769
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Originally Posted by Erik van Straten View Post
I deleted all the pics that are infected by this unsharpness.


Strange that the pictures I've posted in february and before are still sharp.



Erik
Erik, check and see if you are uploading progressive jpegs.

You might want to tell us how you are making the jpegs too. Could be a problem there.
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Old 04-11-2019   #770
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I picked up a Focomat 1c a couple weeks ago locally that I couldn't pass up. The thing was in incredible shape. Not even any dust! I think it is an earlier one. It has a round lamphouse that is basically the same as my 1a. In fact, from what i can tell there is no difference between the 1a and the 1c except for the column (which is significantly larger on the 1c) and the brake. On the 1c it is automatic and the 1a it is a screw knob. The 1c came with anti newton glass and even the ring to space the condenser for the AN glass. It also had a 150 watt short bulb in it which I removed and gingerly put away. I had to rewire it of course. But for $60 I ain't complaining! I transferred the white ring for the condenser I made months ago to even out the exposure. Haven't printed since then so I was curious how all this new stuff was going to go. Worked well.

I haven't grounded it yet. The cord on it was a two prong, so I replaced it with a two prong. I might put a three prong on it and wire the ground to the column. Anybody got any suggestions?




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Old 04-12-2019   #771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRJ View Post
Erik, check and see if you are uploading progressive jpegs.

You might want to tell us how you are making the jpegs too. Could be a problem there.
Congrats with your Ic! Great that you have the anti newton disk. Usually these are much more expensive than the whole enlarger.

I do not know what "progressive" jpegs are. How I make my jpegs. I make them with my scanner. My workflow hasn't changed for many years. I scan the prints at 600 dpi and the negatives at 3200 dpi. The scanner is an Epson V600.

I download them from Flickr at medium 640 (portrait) and medium 800 (landscape) and post them in RFf, but already in Flickr the unsharpness is appearent. This unsharpness is there since a week or two. It attacs now also the pictures I've presented earlier in RFf because there is a link between RFf and Flickr.

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Old 04-12-2019   #772
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I just really started getting into figuring out printing. I think I exposed this a little too long for selenium toning though. When dry, the non toned I think had a little better tonality, but live and learn! Hasselblad 500cm, Ilford Warmtone FB, ansco 130, Delta 100
Image.jpg by Chris Coppola, on Flickr
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Old 04-17-2019   #773
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Originally Posted by Erik van Straten View Post
I deleted all the pics that are infected by this unsharpness.

Strange that the pictures I've posted in february and before are still sharp.

Erik
Hey Erik,

I haven't been on RFF or flickr or shooting even in the past few months because of work and family emergency but I saw your post about the sharpness. Flickr pulled something like this back in like 2015. A solution to avoid the weird compression was to re upload the same image using the "edit" feature. The compression they apply on the image at the upload screen vs the edit screen was different and the quality was higher when the images were replaced with edit.

Maybe give that a try.
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Old 04-17-2019   #774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Straten View Post
Congrats with your Ic! Great that you have the anti newton disk. Usually these are much more expensive than the whole enlarger.

I do not know what "progressive" jpegs are. How I make my jpegs. I make them with my scanner. My workflow hasn't changed for many years. I scan the prints at 600 dpi and the negatives at 3200 dpi. The scanner is an Epson V600.

I download them from Flickr at medium 640 (portrait) and medium 800 (landscape) and post them in RFf, but already in Flickr the unsharpness is appearent. This unsharpness is there since a week or two. It attacs now also the pictures I've presented earlier in RFf because there is a link between RFf and Flickr.

Erik.
I wouldn't worry too much just now, Erik. Your pics don't depend on sharpness: just great composition and subject matter.
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Old 04-17-2019   #775
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HP5+/ 28mm Elmarit v3, Pyrocat hd on the negative
ansco 130/ Ilford Warmtone FB/selenium toner on the print

I think I misjudged the highlights in this one. It dried down way flatter than I thought it looked. Maybe the selenium drove it down?
Great Island, Cape Cod 2018.jpg by Chris Coppola, on Flickr


HP5+/ 5cm Elmar Red Scale/ FX-15 on negative
Same on the paper as above with a reduction in toner time
Andrea at Longnook.jpg by Chris Coppola, on Flickr
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Old 04-17-2019   #776
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Originally Posted by Ccoppola82 View Post
HP5+/ 28mm Elmarit v3, Pyrocat hd on the negative
ansco 130/ Ilford Warmtone FB/selenium toner on the print

I think I misjudged the highlights in this one. It dried down way flatter than I thought it looked. Maybe the selenium drove it down?
The selenium wouldn't have an effect Chris. The old standard for drydown is 10%. You can learn to see when the print is right though without subtracting the 10%. It just takes practice. You are off to a great start though. Congrats.
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Old 04-17-2019   #777
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Hey Erik,

I haven't been on RFF or flickr or shooting even in the past few months because of work and family emergency but I saw your post about the sharpness. Flickr pulled something like this back in like 2015. A solution to avoid the weird compression was to re upload the same image using the "edit" feature. The compression they apply on the image at the upload screen vs the edit screen was different and the quality was higher when the images were replaced with edit.

Maybe give that a try.
Thank you very much, BLKRCAT. I hope that you and your family are well and that we soon can enjoy new work from you.

I will give your advice a try.

I tried and damn! You are right! Thank you very much!

Erik.
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Old 04-17-2019   #778
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Originally Posted by Koolzakukumba View Post
I wouldn't worry too much just now, Erik. Your pics don't depend on sharpness: just great composition and subject matter.
Thank you very much, but I like to see them sharp!

Erik.
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Old 04-17-2019   #779
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The selenium wouldn't have an effect Chris. The old standard for drydown is 10%. You can learn to see when the print is right though without subtracting the 10%. It just takes practice. You are off to a great start though. Congrats.
Thank you. Is there a general rule for dry down? Such as 1/2 a stop etc? I’m using F stop timing because it seems very logical to me and would make an easy adjustment.
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Old 04-17-2019   #780
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Thank you. Is there a general rule for dry down? Such as 1/2 a stop etc? I’m using F stop timing because it seems very logical to me and would make an easy adjustment.
The 10% is a rough estimate, but sort of a rule of thumb. That means if the exposure is 10 seconds, you drop it to 9. I think that equates to a fifth of a stop, but I'd have to get out my calculator to verify that. Some papers need more, some need less. The most I ever heard quoted is 15% and some claim some papers have none. It has probably been two decades since i thought about it though.

It is hard to tell until you learn what to look for, but you can do it. Look for any white that hits the edge of the print which of course is paper white. You want to look for the faintest tone at that line. And I mean faint. That will get you there pretty much. If you don't have an edge, flip a different print over and use the back of that next to what you want white. Prints tend to flatten as they dry too. Water adds contrast, so you should aim for a slightly contrastier print than you want. With experience you will just know what it looks like. You won't even have to think about it. By all means since you are starting out, make copious notes. Write everyting on the back of the print with a pencil. Then compare notes as soon as the prints are dry. Learn learn learn. As long as you know what to look for, it won't take you long to find it. Once you learn a paper, you have it.


I never got into that f stop stuff. I knew the guy that invented it though. He never tried to convert me and I never questioned him. There is nothing wrong with printing that way, I just got used to another way. Whatever works! If your prints look good no ones cares how you got there! F stop printing is a logical way to do it though, so you are ahead of the game if you are learning it. Keep doing it.

Hope that helps you. Got any other questions feel free to ask.
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Old 04-20-2019   #781
Erik van Straten
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Hey Erik,

I haven't been on RFF or flickr or shooting even in the past few months because of work and family emergency but I saw your post about the sharpness. Flickr pulled something like this back in like 2015. A solution to avoid the weird compression was to re upload the same image using the "edit" feature. The compression they apply on the image at the upload screen vs the edit screen was different and the quality was higher when the images were replaced with edit.

Maybe give that a try.

I did, and it helped, but now, after a few days, my pictures on that Flickr account are all gone! All of them! How on earth ...


Erik.
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Old 04-28-2019   #782
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Fuji 6x9 Tri-x

IMG_8386 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]/url], on Flickr
Ilford Warmtone FB Ansco 130
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Old 04-28-2019   #783
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Thats very nice one Deardorff.
Is it our postcard?
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Old 04-29-2019   #784
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Yes, Deardorff, an impressive shot ... and print.

Leica III, Elmar 50mm f/3.5 nickel, TMY2-400, printed on Adox MCC 110.

Erik.

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Old 04-29-2019   #785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccoppola82 View Post
Thank you. Is there a general rule for dry down? Such as 1/2 a stop etc? I’m using F stop timing because it seems very logical to me and would make an easy adjustment.
Some years ago I concluded that the least change in printing time that made any difference I could detect was fifteen percent. That's with Ilford Multigrade paper, and (usually) LPD developer. I imagine it can vary with other papers and developers. My old Componon lenses have only full one-stop click-stops, so I haven't tried fractional f/stop changes. I'd guess that a 1/2 stop change, or even 1/3 stop, might be too much when looking for a subtle difference.
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Old 04-29-2019   #786
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Thats very nice one Deardorff.
Is it our postcard?

Thank you. Not the postcard though
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Old 05-02-2019   #787
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Leica MP, Summicron 35mm f/2 v4 chrome, Tmax400, printed on Adox MCC 110.

Erik.


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Old 05-04-2019   #788
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IMG_8407 (1) by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/[/url], on Flickr
The shadow separation w/ Kodak TMY-2 is superb. Thanks for the tip Erik van Straten! Print is still wet, on Forte Fortezo, discontinued in 1999 (my last box of G3). Jay Dusard's favourite paper. Mine too i guess. Nothing like it. I don't usually do still life photos, but here it is.... Rolleiflex, rolleinar #1
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Old 05-04-2019   #789
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Leica M3, Summicron 50mm f/2 rigid, Tmax400, Adox Mcc 110.

It is remarkable that when there is snow, the sky often appears darker than all the white on the ground, although the sky is theoretically lighter.


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Old 05-05-2019   #790
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Leica MP, Cooke Amotal 2" f/2, 2TMY400, printed on Adox MCC 110.

Erik.




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Old 05-07-2019   #791
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Darkroom Print 1 Makiflex by Nokton48, on Flickr

My first darkroom print in twenty five years.

Plaubel Makiflex, 270mm Tele Arton, 4x5" Efke PL100, ADOX Borax MQ Developer. Entire 9x9cm neg printed full frame.

Ilford Multigrade Print Developer, RC silver gel
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Old 05-07-2019   #792
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"My first darkroom print in twenty five years."
Nice work Nokton. Help keep our numbers up!
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Old 05-07-2019   #793
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Another from today. The roses I bought for my wife. Had to photograph them on the back deck, before throwing them out.

Hasselblad 500 C/M, 100mm F3.5 Planar, Ilford FP4+, ADOX Borax MQ Developer.

Darkroom Print 2 Hasselblad by Nokton48, on Flickr
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Old 05-07-2019   #794
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Very nice work, Nokton, welcome to the club.

Erik.
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Old 05-07-2019   #795
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Thanks Eric!

Darkroom Print 3 Hot Rodded Pentacon Six by Nokton48, on Flickr

Back in the day this was the hottest Pentacon Six to be found anywhere. I sent the body to Dresden and they upgraded it to full Exakta 66 MK2 mode. The body was then covered with "Rollei SL66 Anniversary Diamond Rubber" which I procured from the Rollei factory.

Photograph made in my studio by direct flash. Hasselblad 100mm F3.5 Planar, 70mm Kodak Surveillance Film, processed in ADOX Borax MQ.

Silver gel print on RC paper
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Old 05-07-2019   #796
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Looks very nice! Beautiful camera. Does the light meter still work?

Apologize for my ignorance, what is a silver gel print?

Erik.
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Old 05-07-2019   #797
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Yep everything worked when I sold them (I had an identical pair). Nice cameras but kind of delicate. Film advance mechanism was quite strange. But Hey, it worked for me. P6 lenses were wonderful but the bodies are all kind of sketchy. I took it as far as I could go, at the time.

Sorry for confusion, simply B&W RC photographic paper. Something to get started with easily!
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Old 05-07-2019   #798
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Darkroom Print 4 CCG Makiflex by Nokton48, on Flickr
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Old 05-07-2019   #799
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Thank you Nokton for the explanation. Sure, RC paper is super handy.

Leica M3, Summicron 50mm f/2 rigid, Ilford HP5, printed on Adox MCC 110.

Erik.

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Old 05-08-2019   #800
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I think the pic was taken w/ Tri-X in a Contax G1 w/ a 90 lens on Galveston Island about 20 years ago. This is a trimmed 8 x 12 full frame print on my last sheet of RC paper from a sample pack.

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