Calling all Rodinal Users!
Old 04-24-2016   #1
streetshoot
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Calling all Rodinal Users!

I'm really curious to hear other rodinal users experiences with the interesting chemical and your results and uses, I'd love to broaden my own horizon to rodinal and get the full capability to this awesome developer!

Majority of my time if done stand developing because I had some bad results with regular development but would love to hear anyones process who does regular development with rodinal because I couldn't seem to get it.

The main issue I've had with stand development is getting uneven development in certain spots on the film and some halos near the sky which is why id love to hear anyone who does regular development or pushes and pulls... but otherwise fine. Ive been shooting with tri-x 400. My process includes a 1/100 dilution, 5m in 500ml and agitating the first 2 minutes, letting sit until 30 minute mark including one more agitation for air bubbles, then letting sit yet again until the 60 minute mark.

I'll post some of my own shots! Looking forward to hearing from you guys Beach:Mashamuet 065 by Jack Link, on Flickr
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Old 04-24-2016   #2
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Many people say Rodinal and Tri-X is a match made in hell. I don't think so. You just need to develop it carefully. One film roll at the time in a 0,5l tank. Agitate for 30 seconds and then insert the tank only twice for every 2,5 minutes. I use EI320 and Rodinal 1+50 for 12 minutes:

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Old 04-24-2016   #3
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I gave up on stand; too many problems. I do semi-stand when compensation is needed, but I don't use Rodinal. I also found the 35mm Trix developed by any method with Rodinal gave me more grain than I liked so I don't use Rodinal for 35mm. When I do use Rodinal with 120 I use 1+50. But these are my preferences, you may be happy with features that I don't like. So, as they said in the 70s: do your own thing.
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Old 04-24-2016   #4
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I find Rodinal works well with 35mm APX100 with normal development as per Agfa data sheet, but faster 35m films in Rodinal leads to unacceptably coarse grain.

I find it's fine for faster films (HP5+) in 120 though.
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Old 04-24-2016   #5
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HC-110 is a sophisticated, easier to use version of Rodinal but the sometimes the Rodinal 'punch' is missing. Here a link to 'Rodinal' which is more or less the same concoction as was the old Agfa Rodinal.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/12054-...eveloper-500ml
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Old 04-24-2016   #6
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Sometimes I will use Rodinal, only as a stand developer, 1 plus 100 for 60 minutes. For 35mm film I've found the negatives I like are in a working solution of 600 ml. developed for 1 hour. The best results are achieved with lower ISO films, usually 100. The higher speed films are interesting, grainey, especially with smaller negatives that 35mm film produces.

Mostly, I use other developers, Microdol-X used as stock solution (not diluted) for developing 35mm.

Here is some information on Rodinal to help:

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html
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Old 04-24-2016   #7
Brian Legge
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I use Rodinal/Adonal for traditional (ie non-stand) development. I played with stand for a brief period to see if it was worth more exploration but had too many uneven development issues.

I also use Rodinal with Tri X (typically overexposed by a stop/shot at 200). It can be grainy in 35mm but the tones work well for me. I shoot Acros when I want less grain anyway.
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Old 04-24-2016   #8
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I used rodinal (r09, fomadon) with great results, especially with fp4 and stand development.
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Old 04-24-2016   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Legge View Post
I use Rodinal/Adonal for traditional (ie non-stand) development. I played with stand for a brief period to see if it was worth more exploration but had too many uneven development issues.

I also use Rodinal with Tri X (typically overexposed by a stop/shot at 200). It can be grainy in 35mm but the tones work well for me. I shoot Acros when I want less grain anyway.
Ahh sweet, do you find shooting at those speeds worked well? Also what's your dilution and process you use for trix and rodinal? Based on the times on the massive dev chart it left my film blotchy and underexposed
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Old 04-24-2016   #10
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I have used Rodinal since I was 15 years old. It is a wonderful developer, but there are a lot of myths about it floating around the internet.

I get the best results with the 1+50 dilution using NORMAL developing techniques. No stand developing; it gives uneven results. I agitate first 30 seconds then two inversions every 30 seconds.

It gives the best tonality of any developer I have tried with Tmax 100, Fuji Acros 100, and Ilford Pan-F. I just tried it recently with Tmax 400 and was very pleased with it.

I like the results with Tri-X and HP5 for some subjects; it gives a gritty, slightly grainy, but very sharp look with those films.



Tmax 400, 35mm


Tmax 400, 35mm


Tri-X, 35mm


Tmax 100, 120 size (645)


Tmax 100, 120 (6x6)


Ilford Pan-F, 35mm


Fuji Acros 100, 120 (6x6)


Fuji Acros 100, 120 (6x6)
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Old 04-24-2016   #11
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Here are my developing times and film speeds for Rodinal with all the films I have used it for.

http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/...ping.php?tab=1

I have used both the final version of Agfa Rodinal, which is now sold as Adox Adinol, and the Pre-WWII formula, which is sold as Adox APH-09. Developing times seem to be identical for them. I'm currently using APH-09.
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Old 04-24-2016   #12
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Rodinal is all about grain, unless you're shooting medium format, in which case you might not see much of it. The thing is, the grain is beautiful and sharp. Arista EDU Ultra 100 works well even at 1:25 w/ 35mm film. W/ Tri-X, I got beautiful overall grain w/ this developer using 35mm film at 1:25 (which is the only way I like to develop it). It was really nice in the prints. Don't over agitate this developer. I found the overall tonality a little less than other developers, but it makes up for that w/ the sharpness and grain structure.
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Old 04-24-2016   #13
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Rodinal and Diafine are my go to developers. I use Rodinal 1+25 with Tri-X rated at 200 as you can see in the pictures. I have also used it at box speed and pushed it to 1600 with great results. In this newbie's opinion, It is a great developer.

Next thing you know... by Guy Pinhas, on Flickr

The one I know by Guy Pinhas, on Flickr
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Old 04-24-2016   #14
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The first scan here is w/ 35mm Arista EDU Ultra 100, the second is w/ 35mm Tri-X (note the neat overall grain), and the last is Shanghai GP3 Pan 100 in 120 format. All are developed in Rodinal at 1:25, and I over agitated a bit w/ the 35mm to bring out the grain because when you wet print you lose a lot of it. Tri-X in D76 will give you a LOT more tonality at the sacrifice of some sharpness, and I prefer that developer to Rodinal w/ that film, but for some subjects Rodinal might be good. This is all conventional development, no stand.





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Old 04-24-2016   #15
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I'd say the following.
1) If you want to use Rodinal, use Acurol N instead - it is as sharp but slower working, so you do not get highlights blockage anywhere as fast. Also, from my experience so far, the grain is finer and the development more even. Acurol N IS the new Rodinal as far as I am concerned.
2) Give up the stand development idea. SPUR recommends 1 inversion every 5 mins for longer development with higher dilutions - I do 2 inversions every 3 minutes, as I am leery of uneven development effects. If your negative is not sharp enough, you can scan it and sharpen in PP, but if the development is uneven, your negative is as good as lost.
3) Long development in diluted non solvent developer causes 3 things:
- slight speed gain
- compensating development (good if your tonal range was broad, bad if it was flat)
- sharp, but pronounced grain - the grain in part depends on agitation, so agitate as little as necessary to avoid streaking. etc
If you like this kind of development, do the following:
- dilute your developer around 1:100 ( Acurol N, Rodinal or HC 110)
- shoot a test roll with ALL the B&W films you will ever want to use. Expose part of the film on a tripod shooting the same scene in steps between ISO 16 and 2000 ( 16, 32, 64, 125... etc). Make 1 step wedge in contrasty light 1 in flat light and shoot the rest of the film slightly above the box speed ( ISO 100 at 125, ISO 400 at 500, etc)
- develop at 24C for about 25 mins - I usually do 24.5 mins, 30 sec continuous agitation ( your 2 minutes were WAY too long) and a couple of bangs and a couple of gentle inversions ( no banging) every 3 mins thereafter.
Then determine which speed you like the most - it should typically be the speed where you get the most shadow detail, but not yet highlight clipping.

This way you will discover at which EI to shoot each of your films, and will be able to develop them all the same way, provided you will WANT high acutance and at least some grain.
For fine grain look up fine grain developers.
For pushing look up high speed developers.
There are no holy grails.

BTW Tri X in my book is EI 250.

Tri X in HC 110 dil H

20131123 by marek fogiel, on Flickr
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Old 04-24-2016   #16
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Psssssjh!

I use Rodinal with Acros and also with Foma 100, I never use stand, imo stand is when you have cocked up something (forgot film type, pushed something beyond normal push etc) and need to develop to preserve highlights or make sure you get a photo. If and when, I use Hc-110 for that.

I normally only use Rodinal for the 100 speed films, HC-110 for them as well as higher speed films.

These are all 120 size 6*7 and 6*6

Acros -> Rodinal 1+50

The field by Ole-Henrik Helin, on Flickr






Foma 100 -> Rodinal 1+50



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Old 04-24-2016   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charjohncarter View Post
I gave up on stand; too many problems.
I've never had any problems with stand.
People must be doing something really bad to mess it up.

Fomapan 400, Rodinal (Fomadon R09) 1:100 stand
4-15-2016_041 by Ricardo Miranda, on Flickr

Chinese New Year 2015 by Ricardo Miranda, on Flickr
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Old 04-24-2016   #18
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Wow! this has been super helpful guys, really informative website you have going, a record for yourself and others. Also awesome pics form everyone, seeing rodinal working these pics so nicely has me looking forward to developing my next roll more than actually shooting it
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Old 04-24-2016   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetshoot View Post
Ahh sweet, do you find shooting at those speeds worked well? Also what's your dilution and process you use for trix and rodinal? Based on the times on the massive dev chart it left my film blotchy and underexposed
Development can not leave a film underexposed, underexposure does that......
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Old 04-24-2016   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynnb View Post
I find Rodinal works well with 35mm APX100 with normal development as per Agfa data sheet, but faster 35m films in Rodinal leads to unacceptably coarse grain. I find it's fine for faster films (HP5+) in 120 though.
Rodinal and APX 100 is a heavenly match.

I also like it with TMY-2. 1:50 in both cases.
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Old 04-24-2016   #21
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I like punchy, contrasty, grainy black and white.

Tri-X in Rodinal 1:25, 7.5 minutes. Longer if you really want to push the contrast. I think Ralph Gibson goes for like 11 minutes at 1:25.

HC-110 lacks the punch but has smoother tones.

The only thing I've found with more punch and grain is Dektol (paper developer).
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Old 04-24-2016   #22
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Funny how some say that HC110 lacks punch, I tried Rodinal, still have an unopened bottle in my Oak chest. I tried 1:25, 1:50, 1:100 and stand for all the Ilford films and some slower Kodak films.
Never got great contrast, and the grain was too gritty for me.
Yes, I did Film EI test rolls first, but, just didn't like me I guess.
I do have a rigid workflow as far as prep and developing/agitation goes.

I get much better contrast and tonal range with HC110 H or B
I also shoot TMax 400 99% of the time.

I may Rodinal a try again... but with 100-200 EI ranges.

And it is interesting to read that HC110 is similar....
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Old 04-24-2016   #23
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while the exact formula for HC110 isn't known to me, it seems to be certain that it is a hydroquinone/pyralidone based developer (http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html). rodinal, on the other hand, is based on aminophenole. that means: chemically completely different.

the fact, that they both are handled somehow similarly, doesn't make them similar on the chemical side ...

my experience with rodinal is, that some film work well with stand development (fomapan 100 in 1+100), others don't (HP5+ prefers a traditional regime in 1+50). you may come to different conclusions, however - a lot depends on your dev regime, and the local water quality. so, by all means, go ahead and try yourself. recipes are available for free in the 'net, take them as starting point to develop your own procedure.
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Old 04-25-2016   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastel View Post
while the exact formula for HC110 isn't known to me, it seems to be certain that it is a hydroquinone/pyralidone based developer (http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html).
HC110 uses dimezone-s and hydroquinone, and the alkaline accelerators are two derivatives of ethanolamine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastel View Post
rodinal, on the other hand, is based on aminophenole. that means: chemically completely different.
Further, the accelerator in Rodinal is potassium hydroxide.

Importantly they have different speed and tonal characteristics. Rodinal gives ISO speeds about 1 stop slower than box speeds with normal dilution and development with most films, while HC110 provides close to or slightly above box speed. Rodinal depresses midtones, which is why it gives that dark, moody look, while HC110 provides higher relative toe and midtone speed, providing a more open look with brighter midtones. This is all given the same CI.

Both have a reputation for lasting a long time. For Rodinal this is because of stability combined with historically excellent packaging from Agfa. New versions often don't last as long because the packaging is different and the formula is less stable. HC110 lasts a really long time because no water is used in the solvent and oxygen doesn't dissolve and therefore the components cannot oxidise.

Both have been copied. There are lots of para-aminophenol-hydroxide developers which are like Rodinal, and LegacyPro L110 from Freestyle is very similar to HC110, but uses a less viscous solvent.

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Old 04-25-2016   #25
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I don't see why people are always bashing Rodinal. I find it really really good with Tri-X, APX100, Silvermax and Neopan400 (not so nice with HP5+ but then again, I find that film flat and too grainy in any soup)
Well, I only tried XTOL and Diafine besides Rodinal. I found XTOL had too few advantages to justify using it over Rodinal with the short shelf life and all.
The only soup that might best Rodinal for my use is HC110

Semi stand doesn't produce uneven negs at least it never did for me.

Tri-X is also not just 250 ASA in my book .. maybe if you pull to enrich tonality but then WHY? if I want more tonality I go for TMAX100 or APX100
Tri-X is anything between 200 and 1600 when dropped in Rodinal 1+100 for an hour or two. maybe the neg is a bit thin or a bit thick on either side but absolutely useful when you are not into fine art printing.
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Old 04-25-2016   #26
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I don't know much about Rodinal but I am using Adox Adonal now.

Here are some results I had with HP5+ @ 1600 developed with Adonal 1+25 for 10min at 20°C.


How was his day? by Days of My Ordinary Life (Vincent), on Flickr


A matter of faith by Days of My Ordinary Life (Vincent), on Flickr
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Old 04-25-2016   #27
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My experience was with Original Rodinal by Agfa.
I used from 60"s till Agfa went belly up.
The Blazinol, nice was not Rodinal.
It aged and went bad.
Rodinal lasted years, in an opened bottle.
Blazinol also ate thru one plastic bottle.(less than 1 year).
Tri-X is not the Tri-X of my youth.
The new Tri-X curls badly, unusable in my scanner.

I moved on.
HC-110 is lovely.
Easy to use, nice tonal range, grain I can live with.
Ilford fills the space. HP5 and Kentmere 400 and 100 marketed by Ilford.
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Old 04-25-2016   #28
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I like it for semi stand most with trix my alltime favorite film. Fill more liquid as needed in and in the half I turn the can twice. In MF it gives nice tonality and it is easy to use.



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Old 04-25-2016   #29
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I should note that I found two stand workarounds that helped with uneven development:

- Periodic agitation. I inverted 4 times over the course of development and found that was sufficient. I may have been able to do even less but didn't experiment enough to find out.

- Putting an empty spool under the film I was developing. Even with little agitation, the very bottom of the film seemed to be more active than the rest. I assume the solution was 'settling'. An empty spool at the bottom of the tank kept the film in the range of the solution that was more consistent. Unfortunately this only worked for 35mm for me as I develop in 500ml batches.
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Old 04-25-2016   #30
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http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/201...lide-5Y6Y.html

Ruth Kaplan images - Rodinol and which film? What other developers might she use?
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Old 04-25-2016   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Legge View Post
I should note that I found two stand workarounds that helped with uneven development:

- Periodic agitation. I inverted 4 times over the course of development and found that was sufficient. I may have been able to do even less but didn't experiment enough to find out.

- Putting an empty spool under the film I was developing. Even with little agitation, the very bottom of the film seemed to be more active than the rest. I assume the solution was 'settling'. An empty spool at the bottom of the tank kept the film in the range of the solution that was more consistent. Unfortunately this only worked for 35mm for me as I develop in 500ml batches.
Those are interesting, good thinking, or you could just not do stand.
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Old 04-25-2016   #32
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I used Rodinal for years. The big majority of my pictures are made on Kodak films and Rodinal. Here are a few pics.







More recently i switched to HC-110. I think i prefer the tonality it gives with Tri-X




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Old 04-25-2016   #33
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Stand is going to bit you. If it were good , Kodak and Ilford would recommend it & they do not.

If you are having issues with normal development, read instructions. Currently recommends 5 to 7 inversions in 5 sec every 30 sec. I have done it and it works.

There are a few rules you must follow. Immerse film fast so developer proceeds from dry edge across film quickly. This precludes pouring thru top as it is not fast and does not wet film evenly ( except for plastic tanks). Drop film in, cap, start inversions immediately.

Two inversions with a twist in 5 sec works. So does rolling a stainless tank half full with empty reel on top. 16 oz tank, two reels, bottom with film, 8 oz of developer. Rolling not for plastic tank.

First rule, quick immersion.
Second is agitation must be random and vigorous enough to replenish all the spent developer. If not, you get under developed thin areas and or streaks.

You may pour out through the top with 1 and 2 reel tanks.

If you have too muck contrast, cut time, not agitation.

Now figure what you are doing wrong. You know all the secrets as does the whole world.
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Old 04-25-2016   #34
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I put this link up every so often. It's simple and I'm a simpleton.


http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutoria...-with-rodinal/
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Old 05-10-2016   #35
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I think FP-4 and Rodinal 1:75 is a match made in Heaven. I've had wonderful results-sharpness and tonal range have been superb. Even when Agfapan 400 was available Rodinal is what I used. If that film was still available it would be my 400 speed film.

An example of FP-4 and Rodinal with the M2 and 50 f2 lens...

M2FP401 by David Fincher, on Flickr
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Old 05-10-2016   #36
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I don't use it for 135, but for 120 certainly. Just adore Acros and FP4+ in 1:50 for 10-11min. More or less box speed for both. 10 inversions initially, 3 every min thereafter.
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Old 05-10-2016   #37
stausauser
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many great examples here.
I can't get good results whatever i try.
This is rollei rpx100 in r09.

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Old 05-11-2016   #38
k__43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stausauser View Post
many great examples here.
I can't get good results whatever i try.
This is rollei rpx100 in r09.

excess in grain could be caused by wrong exposure or too much agitation. Fro the standard process I usually go for once or twice a minute with very subtle movements, i.e. never shake! slightly tilt the tank - never upside down, let's say 60° max. tilt and then slowly rotate along it's axis. With semi-stand I'm even gentler .. I always tell the people rather like a glass of whiskey.
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Old 05-11-2016   #39
Chriscrawfordphoto
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My mother recently found a bottle of Rodinal I left in my parents house from when I had a darkroom there 20 yrs ago. It had been opened and part of it used. To see if it worked, I developed a roll of film in it. Here's a photo from the roll:



Film is Tri-X exposed at EI-320 in a Canon New F-1 with 100mm f2.8 FDn lens.
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