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Photo Accessories / Bags/ Meters / Tripods etc A place to discuss the delights of photo accessories, including bags, meters, tripods, filters, straps, camera cases, lens hoods, anything non digital that can make your gearhead life a little bit more enjoyable.

View Poll Results: which of the 3 top brands and why? or not at all?
Leica UV filters 38 10.56%
B+W MRC fliters 177 49.17%
Hoya MC filters 18 5.00%
Go "Commando" (no filters at all) 127 35.28%
Voters: 360. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 08-21-2009   #41
next1
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Noooo, raki is the liquid "Sildenafil" that they give you before you buy a carpet! Oh, man; they have some stories...
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Old 08-24-2009   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris101 View Post
I might be wrong, but you mean sipping sake, right? Cause isn't raki where they massage you without contact?
Close. Thats reiki.
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Old 08-25-2009   #43
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There are also Rodenstock filters as well.

I have a mixed batch of B+W, Leitz, Contax, Lee, Rodenstock and Kodak Wratten filters that I've built-up over the years. I use the Leitz filters for monochrome work. I bought the 55 mm Contax filters because they were cheaper than other brands, secondhand, but they didn't work on the 90 mm Summicron as the mounts are too large and prevent the lens hood from working. I can use them on my Contax SLRs, though. I'm now building up my stocks of Leitz 55 mm filters, as I know they fit properly.

I have a Heliopan polarizer but it doesn't seem as well made as the B+W, Rodenstock or Leitz filters. The rotating mechanism is looser and less precise.

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Old 08-26-2009   #44
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No filters for me. WRT filters for UV, Leica lens elements are cemented with Absorban which acts as a UV filter too.

Look what Google dug up: http://leica-users.org/v02/msg01427.html
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Old 08-26-2009   #45
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Interesting find, Treb!

"If we had meant for our lenses to have a flat piece
of glass in front, we would have designed them that way."
-Leica lens designer

So regarding the response about Absorban, we are to assume that they started using it some time in the early 60's?

Last edited by Brad Maestas : 08-26-2009 at 10:11. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-26-2009   #46
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Well it was my memory first and to confirm Google came second...

I remembered a book I own with two pictures of the same scene shot both with a 50 mm Leica. One with an old 50mm lens, one with a recent 50mm. One suffered from UV, the other didn't.

The book is called Leica M6 by Richard Hünecke. Published in 1990 by Laterna Magica. ISBN 3-87467-407-X. See page 86/87. Oh, and being able to read German is a must for this book...


Last edited by Treb : 08-26-2009 at 10:59.
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Old 08-26-2009   #47
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Cool. I'll look for that book. Although my German is almost nonexistent, I am always up for a challenge, especially when it involves other languages!
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Old 09-24-2009   #48
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Hi all.

First time subscriber to the forums.

I use a UV filter on all my M Lenses instead of a lens cover - primarily for protection only. I take it off when shooting......

Best Rgds.

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Old 09-24-2009   #49
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I agree that Hoya is harder to clean an easy to ruin the coating. So I don't use them much any more. But TIFFEN are cheap and very good. Much cheaper than B+W.
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Old 09-25-2009   #50
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I use B+W color lenses for black and white. I'll put on B+W UV if working in hazardous conditions or color film outdoors.
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Old 09-25-2009   #51
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I used to think UV filters were not necessary until a huge drop of melted ice cream magically appeared on the front elements of a lens that had the hood on. The lens hadn't been near ice cream... I still don't know how it got there. It was the only lens I had with me at the time, so I couldn't take more pictures until I got home and tried cleaning it. Cleaning ice cream is much harder than cleaning a mere fingerprint. Sounds silly, but I now use B+W filters just in case.
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Old 09-25-2009   #52
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On my Gronica rf645 lenses I've B+W UV MRC slim filters and they are great!!ON my contax g2 I've a Kaesermann pol filter for standard lens (28/35/45/90) and a slim kaesermann pol for my 21mm biogon and they are great!!Few years ago I've got 5/6 bay 3 filters for my rollei 2,8
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Old 09-26-2009   #53
Vincenzo Maielli
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I have voted for B+W filters, because there are only a choice for voting. I have many filters B+W, but also Marumi or Tamron or Kenko or Hoya, in many diameters, for many lenses, for rangefinder or reflex 35 mm cameras, or TLR cameras (B30 or Rollei I).
I use only BW filters (red, yellow, green or orange), while for the colour photography i use 81C/KR3, 82C/KB3, Circular Polarizing, ND4x and 499/FLD and KB20 when i shoot in interior without the flash.
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Old 10-08-2009   #54
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leica and B+W make the most accurate brass shaped thread, you could not damage your lens normaly. Hoya can be aluminium or older alloy and can mess up.
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Old 10-08-2009   #55
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Take some car wax and polish up your filter's threads. No more stick!
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Old 10-08-2009   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Kaplan View Post
Take some car wax and polish up your filter's threads. No more stick!
Hehe Al thanks for the very nice trick indeed! I must have gotten traumatized by a cheap filter in the past, i only trust brass ones now.
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Old 10-19-2009   #57
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I voted B+W. But in reality, I use several brands. I do favor B+W for the MRC coating, which is the next thing to having no glass at all. But the B+W filter rings are very thick, which can be a problem with wide-angle lenses. Heliopan, on the other hand, makes a very thin filter ring. I don't believe anyone even mentioned Heliopan. You know, they had the ad with a moose hiding in the bushes, and he says, "I'm not coming out unless it's a Heliopan filter?" Nikon makes thin filter rings, too; but hey, this is a Leica thread, and Leica doesn't use 52mm filters.

Hoya? One of the sharpest pictures I ever took was through a Hoya filter. They have several different coatings at various prices. I believe the best is the HMC, or Hoya MultiCoated. It is a good brand.

Tiffen. Have you ever seen a coated Tiffen filter? I have not, and I have a bunch of them. When I hold up a Tiffen, all I see reflected is the color of the light bulb I'm using for illumination. No blue, green, or red reflections. I don't think they coat them. Too bad, since they make most of the color correction filters I use, like 81A, B, and C, and the Tiffen 812, which is kind of double-strength skylight. I use 'em when I need 'em, even though not coated.
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Old 10-19-2009   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrence View Post
I think aluminium thread filters are more likely to bind than brass thread filters. Anyway I don't use filters, except for occasionally an orange filter for b&w.

Aluminum threaded onto aluminum will gall--meaning it will stick tight. An example is with the front and rear halves of a Tiffen filter holder, both parts being made of aluminum. Aluminum and brass have a mutually sliding, non-binding quality; which is why Leica makes its helicoids using brass and aluminum together. A brass filter screwed into a brass lens can bind pretty tight--that is just a personal observation.

I suppose another reason why aluminum can seem to bind is that, being a soft metal, the threads might be more easliy distorted over time, with comtinued or rough use.
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Old 10-21-2009   #59
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great.. too many B+W users...

1. anyone tried the new xs-pro filter? does it REALLY make a difference?

2. which do you usually get? 010uv or 007 no effect? Im really curious.
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Old 11-03-2009   #60
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I used to put filters (B+W multi-coated) on some of the more vulnerable lenses, but in the end found them to get in the way of good images. Especially when shooting at night, two problems pop up. First one is that even with the best filters, there's ghosting of lights and lighted objects into the darkest parts of the picture.. The other is the often fast drop in temperature when the sky is completely clear. The water vapour in the air caught between the filter and the front element starts to condense, leading veiling and flare.
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Old 11-10-2009   #61
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Sorry, I have a noob question. Is it advisable to compensate for exposure if we put on a yellow B&W filter? If so, is 1/2 stop enough?
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Old 11-10-2009   #62
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If it is light yellow then a 1/2 stop is correct. Medium yellow filters generally require a full stop more.



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Old 12-18-2009   #63
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The more substantial B+W brass filter probably saved my 50 1.5 C Sonnar when I dropped it, the only discernible injury being a slight inward bend of a few degrees of the filter lip. The thread still runs sweetly. I like them even more after that.
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Old 12-19-2009   #64
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No filters unless shooting in rain or mud or sand.

I had a cheap sigma 18-200mm lens that my dad gave to me because it broke. These are the dregs of the lens world - cheap, nasty and terrible IQ. I dissembled it to see if I could find the cause of the break - turns out the electric wires had separated and there was no point in re-assembling. Out of curiosity, I took the front glass element and a sharp screwdriver, and using a decent amount of pressure, tried to scratch the glass (just out of curiosity).

After about 2 mins of rubbing with a decent amount of force, and then a quick buff with a micro cloth, there were no scratches in the coating.

If sigma can do that with a $200 lens, why would I compromise image quality with a $2000 lens.

I tested a BW multicoated UV filter with my canon 35L against a bright light source, and the with the filter there were certainly effects on the picture - for example a light flare around light points etc.
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Old 12-24-2009   #65
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I have B+W MRC fliters for both my 50 lux and my 35 cron ASPH, but I only keep a filter on the lux. If I'm shooting at night or in tricky lighting situations, I'll remove it. The only time I use the filter on the 35 cron is when I'm shooting in dusty or rainy conditions, mostly so I can just run my T-shirt over it for a quick cleaning without having to worry about damaging the lens. Otherwise, the 35 cron stays in my bag with no filter and just a 12585H hood for protection. This lens hasn't seen a or filter in ages.

My Elmar 90/4 and CV 25/4 go without filters.
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Old 02-09-2010   #66
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I use both B+W and leica. next purchase will he B+W, for very easy to clean.
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Old 02-09-2010   #67
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I use both Leica and B+W on Leica lenses, whichever available at the moment. I keep MC UV filter on lenses all the time because I don't like using lens caps. I just put the camera into my bag or pocket and hold in hand everyday, and the caps are spending the rest of their natural lives in "misc" camera equipment bag or the lens packages.
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Old 02-09-2010   #68
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I never use UV filter when photographing. Use them as lenscaps for travelling instead since they do not fall off easily. Leica and BW.

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Old 02-10-2010   #69
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B+W MRC or Heliopan work well for protection.
Although I do have Leica Filters on a couple of my lenses.
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Old 02-10-2010   #70
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I figure the filter provides a "sacrificial surface", as I'd prefer damage there than on the lens front element. One can reeplace a filter with "cleaning marks", etc. But, recognizing the possibility of optical degradation caused by the filter, I won't skimp on quality of manufacture, coating, etc. I use both B+W and Leica but as I recall there are situations where the Leica filter will allow a hood to fit over it where the B+W will not...
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Old 02-11-2010   #71
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Where's the heliopan check-box? I have half a dozen filters that fit the lens on my Leica, half B+W and half heliopan.
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Old 02-17-2010   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_n View Post
Binding is reduced when there is like metal to like, so I understand. Internet wisdom is that brass is best in all cases but I have had more than one brass filter bind on an aluminum lens. This is partially because I'm a complete clutz but I don't buy the brass is always best argument any more.
Aluminuim is really soft and it can stick or gall when used in threaded applications. It's really not a very good material for a filter ring. But it's cheap.

Brass is very good material for this kind of thing.
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Old 02-17-2010   #73
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Heres a good read since nikon filters haven't been mentioned

http://www.pbase.com/nrothschild/l37c_filter_test
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Old 02-17-2010   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_n
Binding is reduced when there is like metal to like, so I understand....


Actually, it's just the opposite; identical metals tend to interchange particles and stick. Different alloys of the same basic metal are better used together, or different metals altogether.

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Aluminuim is really soft and it can stick or gall when used in threaded applications. It's really not a very good material for a filter ring. But it's cheap.
Depends on the specific alloy and temper; some aluminum is as hard and strong as mild steel. Pure aluminum is pretty soft; there's been a lot of progress in creating new alloys for specific properties, over the years.
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Old 02-19-2010   #75
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Quote:
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Actually, it's just the opposite; identical metals tend to interchange particles and stick. Different alloys of the same basic metal are better used together, or different metals altogether.
Interchanging particles and sticking... Hmmm. Thanks for the education Doug, my "understanding" has changed!


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Old 03-01-2010   #76
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Quote:
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Binding is reduced when there is like metal to like, so I understand. Internet wisdom is that brass is best in all cases but I have had more than one brass filter bind on an aluminum lens. This is partially because I'm a complete clutz but I don't buy the brass is always best argument any more.
I think it's the other way around. Brass and aluminum are said to have a natural low-friction contact. Leica uses brass and aluminum as the mating parts in their lenses, for this reason. Painted Leica lenses have brass outer parts, since aluminum does not take paint well. Anodized ones have aluminum on the outside and brass for the inner parts.

Aluminum on aluminum galls worse than other combinations.
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Old 03-01-2010   #77
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I prefer B+W filters because that's what I've always used. And they seem more beefy in build than the Leica/Hoya filters.
Leica/Hoya filters? Does this mean that Leica buys its filters from Hoya? I don't see that as a bad thing, if it's true. Hoya's best filters are quite good. But that may not be what was intended, though.
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Old 04-20-2010   #78
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If I really had to depend on the shot. I wouldn't use any filter no matter who made it. It's another piece of glass and an air space, and I have had occasional flare w/ the best filters made (and often not so much from the cheapest, so go figure).
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Old 04-22-2010   #79
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The new high-end Hoya ones are really easy to clean, as easy as a B+W, and tests have shown that they have superb transmission characteristics. I use Hoya, B+W, and Heliopan.
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Old 04-22-2010   #80
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Stopped using filters. It's like putting a window pane over the Mona Lisa, you're going to get reflections. Makes me wonder how many times people lament about flare when it's just that flat piece of glass out in front of that finely crafted lens element.
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