Old 06-21-2008   #401
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I used Kodafix until it became hard to order from Kodak, I then switched to Kodak rapid fix and have been happy with the results. With rapid fix the fixer (part A) and hardner (part B) are in two parts but it's very simple to mix and seems to last about as long as Kodafix.
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Old 06-22-2008   #402
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Tom,

I will be contacting you soon to buy another Chrome Softie, to attach to this . I think it will compliment my M2 nicely, it's from the same dealer in the Netherlands:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=008

Any comment on the M5? Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2008   #403
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Hmm. a M5 - the ugly stepchild of the M family. I tried them and tried to like it, but never got along with it. However, the metering system is very good and once you get used to its idiosyncracies - bottom rewind is probably the biggest of them - it works fine.
The speed dial is smart - easy to control.
Let Tuulikki know and she can dispatch your chrome softie.
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Old 06-22-2008   #404
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Glad to hear the metering system is good. I'm replacing two Bessa R's with this body. Should work out very well, long term. I know they take getting used to, I think I'm going to like it. Always wanted one after handling one in 1975. Prices are down.

I'm mixing more ADOX Borax Developer and Replenisher tonight, so I can get going again with that. Really like it alot, as well as the TD-201. Fixer I will mix from whatever I have around. When I finish the roll of XX in my M-2, I'll make another run, probably back to the ADOX.

Will let Tuulikki know about my order. Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2008   #405
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Of corse, you will now need a Rapidwinder for the M5! Shintaro actually made one in the mid-90's. Kind of worked, but it is a complex piece as the baseplate rewind really confused the Rapidwinder. Looked cool though - I haven't asked him whatever happened to it.
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Old 07-08-2008   #406
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has anybody "unfrozen" any of the +X movie stock and tried it. The weather report is promising a stretch of sunny weather so I was thinking of going "slow" with some of Plus X. With 80 asa in daylight it could be interesting. Anyone have any suggestions for what to soup it in. I will try it in Pyrocat HD, probably 8-9 min. initially, but I am open to suggestions for other soups.
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Old 07-08-2008   #407
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Tom,

Interesting that you should mention +x. I have a roll ready to use in my M2 next after I finish the current roll.

I plan on souping it in TD-201 along with the other rolls i shot. I will let everyone know how if comes out.

You said you might shoot it at 80 I think I will bracket between 80 and 125 and see how it works.

I have 400 feet and this would be a good time to use it with the weather being sunny.

I am going to Portland Wednesday for a few days so I might not get to the processing until I get back.

I recently did a roll of Chinese ERA 100 shot at 100 in the divided Developer Td-201 and the negs look really nice. I still have about 25 rolls of the ERA 100 to use.

I may use the Era film or Plus X in Portland this week with the weather being sunny and warm.

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Old 07-08-2008   #408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom A View Post
has anybody "unfrozen" any of the +X movie stock and tried it. The weather report is promising a stretch of sunny weather so I was thinking of going "slow" with some of Plus X. With 80 asa in daylight it could be interesting. Anyone have any suggestions for what to soup it in. I will try it in Pyrocat HD, probably 8-9 min. initially, but I am open to suggestions for other soups.
Hello Tom,

I love Plus-X in 510-Pyro - wonderful tones. I assume you know about 510-Pyro, if not I will be happy to assist you with more information.
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Old 07-08-2008   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom A View Post
has anybody "unfrozen" any of the +X movie stock and tried it. The weather report is promising a stretch of sunny weather so I was thinking of going "slow" with some of Plus X. With 80 asa in daylight it could be interesting. Anyone have any suggestions for what to soup it in. I will try it in Pyrocat HD, probably 8-9 min. initially, but I am open to suggestions for other soups.
I'm ready to try a roll of my +X Movie Stock in my new M5! Should be fun, I'm just finishing my first roll of Presto 400 in it. I'm going to try the ADOX Borax and Replenisher, again. I had to throw mine out after 45 rolls of XX (and the fixer too!) when some old 70mm film i was developing, had it's emulsion come completely off Never had that happen before!

THE ADOX Borax and replenisher should work great with the +X. I -know- it's great with XX
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Old 07-08-2008   #410
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OK, mine is out of the freezer and in the darkroom now and once it has thawed out - tomorrow possibly, i will start spooling up some cassettes of it. Probably normal reloads so that I can use it in the R4/ZI/MP combinations. Some in IXMOOS too of course.
Plese let us know about the 501 Pyro, Vieri - The more soups w have access to the more film will be used and the happier Kodak will stay!
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Old 07-08-2008   #411
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OK, mine is out of the freezer and in the darkroom now and once it has thawed out - tomorrow possibly, i will start spooling up some cassettes of it. Probably normal reloads so that I can use it in the R4/ZI/MP combinations. Some in IXMOOS too of course.
Plese let us know about the 501 Pyro, Vieri - The more soups w have access to the more film will be used and the happier Kodak will stay!
Tom, here it is then 510-Pyro is a staining & tanning Vit-C & phenidone based pyro developer developed by Jay De Fehr (http://pyrostains.blogspot.com/) its formula is free to use, and goes as follows:

100 ml TEA;
5 gr ascorbic acid;
10 gr pyrogallol;
0.25 gr phenidone;

heat 75 ml of TEA, add the components in sequence stirring until each one dissolve completely before adding the next, add the remaining TEA; wait for it to cool down. It is very easy to do, but if you have troubles you can PM me and I can send you some ready mixed stock solution. Stock solution's helf life is forever; working solution is 1:100 and has to be used within 30 min or so from preparation. For Plus-X I'd suggest 6 min at 24 C, 3 inversions per minute as a starting point; water stop, alkaline fix (TP-4 works fine).

The results are really good as far as tones and sharpness, and 510-Pyro has a very nice way of compensating and keeping highlights under control. Here a couple of samples: they are not as good as the prints of course, and suffer as always of the JPG quality loss due to being reduced for the net; however I think they might give you an idea of what this developer can do as far as tonal range and scale.

(btw, a very very good 50 mm that Canon!)

Good luck with your experimenting!
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Old 07-09-2008   #412
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Thanks Vieri, another developer to add to the ever growing file. results look promising, nice portraits too.
The fact that I have thawed out the Plus X, immideately brought in f250/5.6 (with 400) weather though.
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Old 07-09-2008   #413
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Vieri, do you have any experience with the GSD-10 soup? At the moment I have no TEA handy, but for some reason a bag of Glycine.
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Old 07-10-2008   #414
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Vieri, do you have any experience with the GSD-10 soup? At the moment I have no TEA handy, but for some reason a bag of Glycine.
Tom, indeed I do - I mixed a batch of it and tried it out, and I am happy with what I see; if you give me some time I will post here some samples in a couple of hours
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Old 07-10-2008   #415
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Thanks Vieri, I have about 20 rolls waiting for processing and I am getting bored with the predictable result from the Pyrocat HD. Time for some excitement in the darkroom - chemically speaking.
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Old 07-10-2008   #416
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Quote:
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Time for some excitement in the darkroom - chemically speaking.
...or chemically induced? err... anyway, here it comes, some GSD-10 examples:

Now, Pan-F+ @ 67 (don't ask), Leica MP, Prague, 35 Cron v. IV & 90 Cron pre-ASPH, 1:10, 7 min, 10 sec per min, 24' C:

By its own nature, and according to Jay, GSD-10 is most suitable for stand development; I knew that agitating it as I did would have brought out some grain, which I don't mind (I was hoping for it, actually); I think the tonal range & acutance aren't too bad at all, TMY seems not to like the treatment as far as grain goes but then again I am not much of a TMY user in the first place while Pan-F seems to give very good tones & controlled grain even with my agitation.

Hope this helps! Post some results of your experiments...
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Old 07-10-2008   #417
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Vieri, thanks for the shots. I think I am going to mix up some of this stuff and try it with XX and the plus X movie stock.
Love the shot from Praque with the "skull" statue. Somewhere in my files I have one with kids playing in it!
I like stand developing, though with Patterson tanks you can run into problem with uneven density along the edges. I know I should go back to stainless, but I have too many Patterson tanks and reels to bother changing.
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Old 07-10-2008   #418
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Quote:
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Vieri, thanks for the shots. I think I am going to mix up some of this stuff and try it with XX and the plus X movie stock.
Love the shot from Praque with the "skull" statue. Somewhere in my files I have one with kids playing in it!
I like stand developing, though with Patterson tanks you can run into problem with uneven density along the edges. I know I should go back to stainless, but I have too many Patterson tanks and reels to bother changing.
Sure thing Tom, glad if they helped some - about stand & Patterson, if I am not mistaking Jay used plastic Jobos for stand and he never mentioned edge problems with it; I decided not to go for stand anyway hoping for some grain (I sure got it... ) and - as you - because I wasn't sure about Patterson + stand (as you, I only use plastic Patterson tanks and as you I have too many tanks & rolls to bother changing now); as well, I think stand would work great for minimizing grain when pushing, rather than for developing at box speed or the likes: maybe is worth trying some stand with not-so-important shots (is there such a thing?) and see what happens.

Semi off-topic: how can I put my grabby hands on some rolls of Double-X? I couldn't seem to be able to find it anywhere on the net...
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Old 07-12-2008   #419
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Vieri, go to the beginning of the Double X thread and there is a post on ordering from Kodak N.Y. directly. I have no idea if they ship it outside of the US, but it could be worth a try. At a measly $128/400 ft it is probably not worthwhile buying "short ends" with a chance of fogging due to sloppy unloading and cutting.
I know it is available in Japan for exactly double the US price ($256/400 ft) - somebody is making a bundle on it!
You be surprised how fast you will be going through 70 rolls of it too. Perfect for high contrast light. With the right developer it will handle it very well. I am still on my Pyrocat HD kick, but soon I will switch to something else and I want to run some stuff in D20 and D23 too as that will tame the contrast even further.
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Old 07-13-2008   #420
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After much procrastination, I am finally up and running film again. Yesterday I mixed up the ADOX Borax MQ (2000 ml) and this morning, the Replenisher for it (1000 ml). This is my second batch of this stuff, I like it enough to mix it up, a second time. I also have TD-201 mixed up, and have used it for four rolls, so far.

Just finished hanging four XX rolls, souped in the ADOX. Rated the film at 250, 8 min at 20C, agitation 20 secs initally, the 5 secs/inversions per minute. Replenishment at 80cc's/four rolls. It definately has a '60's retro look to it, especially with the old lenses I'm now using. This stuff, with V2 Rigid Summicron, 50 f1.2 Canon, V2 90mm f2 Summicron "Big Bertha". Two rolls are an important getaway weekend trip, plus several important family events, etc. One roll is with my favorite Minolta SRT100, with Rokkor F1.2 lens. There is something, about using this film, with old, ultra high-speed lenses in moderate light. It's like a match made in heaven. I really like the qualities of this film/developer combination alot alot, it's the best film/dev combo I've ever used IMO. And, my new M5 is working just great!
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Old 07-20-2008   #421
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I just did a roll of the 5231 +X emulsion and put it on Flickr. As it was a test roll, I used it to shoot a lens and camera with a 60 macro Elmarit on a SL. I did throw it in with 4 rolls of APX 100 in Rodinal 1:50 for 10 min. Looks good, but it will be more interesting seeing this film with something like Beutler or Pyrocat. The grain is finer than the APX 100, at least in Rodinal. Use tag Eastman 5231 in Flickr and you can see the result. Only three shots so far. I am shooting another 1/2 dozen rolls in the next couple of days.
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Old 07-21-2008   #422
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Im really eagre to try out some XX or any B+W movie film for that matter. I am looking for large quantities of film and have been buying large chunks off eBay to satiate my needs, however a thousand feet of one thing or another would be a lot better I think, for consistency value. Leo or Ikgroup sent me a link to a guy but I lost the link (twice) and so have been hovering around eBay trying not to look like a window shopper. There are some really good deal to be had on there actually (everything I buy is post dated).
I have been bulk loading for 20+ years now and wonder why anyone would bother doing it any other way, its 50% more free mileage per penny!
Typically I used Neopan and Rodinal Special, however RSP is gone and so is bulk Neopan so I am playing with other combinations usually just Rodinal or Xtol for their blindingly amazing versatility!!!
I actually saved up and sold off everything else to pay for a 35 Asph Summilux and since Ive had that Ive been using slower film -by the bucket load...
Anyway, Leo can you PM me that link again ( I promise I wont loase it this time).
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Old 07-24-2008   #423
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I have shooting some of the +X Movie stock. I tried it with Rodinal 1:50 for 10 mins. Seems to work well, no fried highlights and I just posted some stuff (on our Flickr)done with it and Pyrocat HD. AS I was using APX 100/Acros 100 as reference films, I did run it at 9 min. A bit too active for the +X (rated @ 80 asa). I would suggest 7-7.5 min - or possibly 10 min semi stand developing (60sec initial agit. two turns at 4 and 8 min).
Very smooth grain, looks even finer than Acros 100. Not as "raw" as APX 100 which can be quite contrasty.
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Old 07-29-2008   #424
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Reading this thread make me want to try out these films. I just ordered one roll of X and one roll of XX from Kodak :-)

I used to bulk film that's 100 feet long with a typical bulk film loader (which accept 100 feet film roll). May I ask how you load the film? Guess cut it into 100 feet?
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Old 07-29-2008   #425
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Hi Nevin,
What is X? Do you mean +X? +X and XX are an awesome combination, highly unlikely Kodak will discontinue these 1960's grade retro-emulsions any time soon, as it feeds the Cinema Industry. Should still be available, when you can't get film in cartridges

Does Fuji make B&W motion picture film for the Leica? What about Agfa? What is available, and from WHO?

I open the big can in the dark, stretch out an arm's length piece of film, then snip it off, tape it, and roll it up in a Kodak Snap-Cap. It's very easy, once you try it, I like to do ten rolls at a time. You can also roll-off 100' rolls, to put into a daylight loader, but you'll need a plastic core, like comes on the end of a used-up 100' roll. That's more tedious to roll, but still, not too bad.

-Dan, off to pick up my Tan M5 (Mr. Zhou) everready case-bottom, arriving at rocket-speed from China. It's at the post office in my neighborhood right now.
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Old 07-30-2008   #426
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Quote:
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Hi Nevin,
What is X? Do you mean +X? +X and XX are an awesome combination, highly unlikely Kodak will discontinue these 1960's grade retro-emulsions any time soon, as it feeds the Cinema Industry. Should still be available, when you can't get film in cartridges
Yes I do mean +X I'm curious though who is still shooting B+W movie nowadays?

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Does Fuji make B&W motion picture film for the Leica? What about Agfa? What is available, and from WHO?
I only know Fuji has 35mm color negative motion film.

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I open the big can in the dark, stretch out an arm's length piece of film, then snip it off, tape it, and roll it up in a Kodak Snap-Cap. It's very easy, once you try it, I like to do ten rolls at a time. You can also roll-off 100' rolls, to put into a daylight loader, but you'll need a plastic core, like comes on the end of a used-up 100' roll. That's more tedious to roll, but still, not too bad.
I think I will try to cut it into a 100' roll and use a daylight loader to finish the job :-)
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Old 07-30-2008   #427
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The beginning sequence in the latest James Bond movie "Casino Royale" was filmed with Eastman XX film, as an homage to Spy Movies of the cold war era. Here is a link, scroll down to see an XX image from the film (Bond using his silencer & Wather PPK):

http://www.ascmag.com/magazine_dynam...yale/page3.php#
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Old 07-30-2008   #428
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The beginning sequence in the latest James Bond movie "Casino Royale" was filmed with Eastman XX film, as an homage to Spy Movies of the cold war era. Here is a link, scroll down to see an XX image from the film (Bond using his silencer & Wather PPK):
Yes indeed that's a very nice one. I'm afraid it's a drop in the bucket though. I guess I should enjoy it while the film is still available.
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Old 08-07-2008   #429
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Just run 4 rolls of +X in Beutler 1:1:8 -together with a roll of Acros as reference. Way too dense negs - probably need to cut the time from 7 min to 5,5 min - or do a 1:1:10 dilution and run it for 6.5 minutes. Will post some of it tomorrow. The Acros was fine, so it seems like the +X is highly sensitive to the Beutler. Grain looks nice and tight - where you can see it through the dense, black mid-tones!
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Old 08-07-2008   #430
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So Tom, after you tried all these solutions, which one gives you the best "feeling"?
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Old 08-07-2008   #431
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The beginning sequence in the latest James Bond movie "Casino Royale" was filmed with Eastman XX film,#
This page says it was +X ?


http://www.ascmag.com/magazine_dynam...yale/page4.php

Although this page says XX

http://www.ascmag.com/magazine_dynam...yale/page1.php
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Old 08-07-2008   #432
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Oh dear this trivia page

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0381061/trivia

seems to have confused RX,Royal-X Pan and Double-X 5222


Quote

The black-and-white opening of the film was the idea of director of photography Phil Meheux as to give a surprise to viewers, and as a nod to The Spy Who Came in from the Cold (1965) and Reflections in a Golden Eye (1967). The opening sequence required 6000 ft of RX-2222 black-and-white film stock. So far, Casino Royale is the only James Bond film to have any sequence filmed in black and white.

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Old 08-08-2008   #433
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American Cinematographer lists "Plus X 5222", and as we all know, Eastman 5222 is Double X. Looks like a typo. BTW I have this movie on DVD, and it's -great-. Love the opening B&W sequence.

The very grainy, gritty, fight scene in the bathroom, where 007 gets his first kill, looks like XX pushed several stops, at least, to me. They certainly got "grit" and grain, lots and lots of it.
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Old 08-08-2008   #434
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Has anyone tried HC-110? I recently acquired some and thought I might give it a go.
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Old 08-08-2008   #435
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The very grainy, gritty, fight scene in the bathroom, where 007 gets his first kill, looks like XX pushed several stops, at least, to me. They certainly got "grit" and grain, lots and lots of it.
more than likely its not. the grain I always got from this film when projected is *nothing* like what it looks like printed on paper or a monitor. I dont know if it was in the negative or the combination of the positive as well, but the grain feels like it triples when you project it. Because of the look of 5222 projected, which was a main stay for a few years, I started to shoot TMZ in hopes of securing the same look in still photos.
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Old 08-09-2008   #436
Nokton48
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Just finished hanging four more rolls of bulk-loaded B&W film. Three are Eastman 5222 XX, and the fourth is Agfa APX400. Development was 9 minutes at 20C, agitating for the first 15 seconds of development, and 5 seconds per minute (five inversions of the Honeywell Nikor tank). Negatives from all rolls look really good, the extra minute did seem to have helped a bit. Once again, love the XX "look" and the negs have the full range of tones, deep shadow detail, and nice, subtle highlight values. I'm very pleased, I did get some interesting interior XX negs (from our visit to the Hard Rock Cafe in Cleveland), shot at 1/15 and 1/8, wide-open with the Canon F1.2 on M2. The Agfa APX400 has a funny greyish base color, but the negs look printable, when I examine them closely, holding them up to the light.

The Borax ADOX MQ Developer and Replenisher continues to be an excellent, easy to mix and use, very forgiving developer, to use on a wide variety of B&W emulsions. Next I will try it with some of my 200' of newly acquired Tri-X. It would be interesting to compare Tri-X against XX, as I rate them both at EI 250, to see the difference in the "look" of the two films, developed together in the ADOX.
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Last edited by Nokton48 : 08-09-2008 at 05:26.
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Old 08-09-2008   #437
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Has anyone tried HC-110? I recently acquired some and thought I might give it a go.

At the beginning of the thread, Tom A was using HC-110, and I think it was pretty good for him.
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Old 08-09-2008   #438
pesphoto
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Im interested in trying this after reading this cool thread!
Can anyone explain to me the difference between, long, medium and short ends on this site before I order some? Thanks
http://www.tapesuperstore.com/koblandwhned.html
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Old 08-09-2008   #439
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Pesphoto,
I'd call them on the phone, I think they sell their stuff acquired in a matter of hours. Not sure what happens when you use the "carts", but I'm not sure if you'll get film that way.

I bought a "long-end" in Hollywood Florida, and it was 240 feet. And when I bought a "re-can" in NYC (from them) it was 400 feet. I guess "short-ends" are around 100', but I'm -not- a Cinematographer, although we have some around here, and they frequent this thread. XX -is- COOL, scarf some up, and start shootin'. You'll like it.
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Old 08-09-2008   #440
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ok, thanks Will do. Would love to give it a try after seeing the results from others.
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