Ektachrome E100 Image Thread!
Old 10-21-2018   #1
dave lackey
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Ektachrome E100 Image Thread!

Ektachrome E100 is here and there should be a lot of rolls headed for development and scanning by now.

Post your E100 images here and share your results with us!
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Old 10-21-2018   #2
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Got the stack of rolls finally yesterday. Will be another week or so before I can post results here. Maybe some folks already have scans to show off sooner.
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Old 10-23-2018   #3
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2 rolls completed, need to get them developed now.
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Old 10-23-2018   #4
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Yay!! Can't wait to see them!
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Old 10-23-2018   #5
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2 rolls completed, need to get them developed now.
Please share!
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Old 11-08-2018   #6
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OK!

Ordered two rolls from Freestyle last night. Next week, I begin shooting. So, please post YOUR images in the coming weeks as I await results to share!
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Old 10-23-2018   #7
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Just checked BHPhoto to place an order. Backordered until December. It would appear that the rollout has been successful. It will be very interesting to see the results.
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Old 10-23-2018   #8
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Just checked BHPhoto to place an order. Backordered until December. It would appear that the rollout has been successful. It will be very interesting to see the results.
The rollout is on such a roll that they are out of rolls.
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Old 11-08-2018   #9
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Here's one. Nikon F6 and Nikkor 10.5cm f2.5 P

000331900030 by Maryland Photos, on Flickr
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Old 11-08-2018   #10
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Wish I had a "Like" button...

From what I am seeing, there is a lot of potential. This week I am shooting some expired Ektachrome to compare with new film.

Keep 'em coming!!!
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Old 11-08-2018   #11
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This is terrible, just terrible, blown up shadows and odd colours. Did you scan it with the smartphone...
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Here's one. Nikon F6 and Nikkor 10.5cm f2.5 P


000331900030 by Maryland Photos, on Flickr
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Old 11-09-2018   #12
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This is terrible, just terrible, blown up shadows and odd colours. Did you scan it with the smartphone...
Have you ever used transparency film?

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Old 11-09-2018   #13
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Have you ever used transparency film?

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Isn't all film transparent?
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Old 11-09-2018   #14
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Isn't all film transparent?
Transparency film means slide film.
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Old 11-08-2018   #15
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Here are a few from my first roll. I have a second that I still need to scan, but I like it so far. Probably won't be shooting it often because of the cost, but it's fun to look at them with a loupe and see how sharp your photos really are (compared to scanned versions).

M2 + Summicron 50 (v700 scans)











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Old 11-11-2018   #16
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Here are a few from my first roll. I have a second that I still need to scan, but I like it so far. Probably won't be shooting it often because of the cost, but it's fun to look at them with a loupe and see how sharp your photos really are (compared to scanned versions).

M2 + Summicron 50 (v700 scans)
nice images! this is shaping up to be a great release from Kodak.
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Old 11-09-2018   #17
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Nice work bhop!

Dave, looking forward to what you get from your rolls. Some place still has stock?
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Old 11-09-2018   #18
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Another "smartphone scan" . N8008 and Nikkor 55 1.2K.

000471120023 by Maryland Photos, on Flickr
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Old 11-09-2018   #19
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Not sure now when the order will be filled... no worries, I have more expired film than I can shoot at the moment. It will arrive here when it does.

Regarding scanning, I have always been underwhelmed with scanning slide film. This time around, I hope to solve that problem without resorting to a drum scan.

We shall see...

Update:

Well, there you go...good things await those who are patient. Just received an email from Freestyle. The two rolls of E100 have been shipped and delivery is scheduled for Wednesday.
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Old 11-09-2018   #20
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I just received my first roll of Ektachrome 100 back from Blue Moon. They really look great, I'll scan and post here soon.
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Old 11-09-2018   #21
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Color looks very neutral and realistic in the higher quality scans. No strong reds or yellows in the images here; I'm curious how they would render.
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Old 11-09-2018   #22
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Color looks very neutral and realistic in the higher quality scans. No strong reds or yellows in the images here; I'm curious how they would render.
I have a second roll with some flowers and stuff that I haven't scanned yet. I'll see if I can get a few frames done tonight and post some up.
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Old 11-09-2018   #23
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I finished scanning my first roll of Ektachrome 100 (new). I used a Pentax P3n with a center-weighted meter, ISO was 100, processed by Blue Moon Camera and Machine.

My P3n has proven to be a good meter, so my slides should have been right on, but the all seemed to be 1/2 stop underexposed. It is also troubling with even a slight under exposure whites are easily blow. In a well exposed scene any shadow area drops off quickly. I like the color rendition, but I'm going to have to be careful with scene choice.

These were taken either at 34 degrees latitude or 45 degrees latitude the last two weeks of October 2018.

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr

EktaChrome 100 (NEW) by John Carter, on Flickr
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Old 11-09-2018   #24
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Black shadows without detail are the reason that I carry a fill flash with me whenever I use slide film. Or, pick overcast days or scenes of low contrast.
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Old 11-10-2018   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charjohncarter View Post
I finished scanning my first roll of Ektachrome 100 (new). I used a Pentax P3n with a center-weighted meter, ISO was 100, processed by Blue Moon Camera and Machine.

My P3n has proven to be a good meter, so my slides should have been right on, but the all seemed to be 1/2 stop underexposed. It is also troubling with even a slight under exposure whites are easily blow. In a well exposed scene any shadow area drops off quickly. I like the color rendition, but I'm going to have to be careful with scene choice.

These were taken either at 34 degrees latitude or 45 degrees latitude the last two weeks of October 2018.
Lovely blues!!!

Thank you for those images, John, there is a lot to learn from those. I am happy to see the sky color and overall well-balanced colors without over-saturation.

My last roll of Velvia turned out pretty nice but even with a bit of work in OS and LR, I think the results from the new E100 would have been preferable, and I say that even though I use high saturation a lot of the time, depending of course on the subject.
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Old 11-10-2018   #26
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Lovely blues!!!

Thank you for those images, John, there is a lot to learn from those. I am happy to see the sky color and overall well-balanced colors without over-saturation.

My last roll of Velvia turned out pretty nice but even with a bit of work in OS and LR, I think the results from the new E100 would have been preferable, and I say that even though I use high saturation a lot of the time, depending of course on the subject.
These I just used my scanner software like I do with C-41. I didn't do any saturation controls or color correction; pretty much straight out of the scanner. I did lighten some of them but very little.
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Old 11-10-2018   #27
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I've shot my first Ektachrome rolls under various conditions.
And I have also did one first direct comparison test to Provia 100F.
My results so far:
1. Ektachrome E100 has very natural, neutral colors.
2. The blue of the sky is very good and better compared to the former E100G (which had a light tendency towards cyan, like unfortunately also all Kodak CN films).
3. Provia 100F seems slightly warmer (more saturated yellow and orange) than E100, E100 is a bit more on the cool side.
4. Provia 100F is sharper than E100 (that has also been the case with former E100G and E100VS). That is also confirmed by the data sheets and MTF curves of both films.
5. Provia has a bit higher resolution.
6. Fineness of grain is equal between both films.
7. Provia 100F has more exposure latitude (a result also "The Darkroom Lab" reported recently about their tests).

Quote:
Originally Posted by charjohncarter View Post
I finished scanning my first roll of Ektachrome 100 (new). I used a Pentax P3n with a center-weighted meter, ISO was 100, processed by Blue Moon Camera and Machine.

My P3n has proven to be a good meter, so my slides should have been right on, but the all seemed to be 1/2 stop underexposed. It is also troubling with even a slight under exposure whites are easily blow. In a well exposed scene any shadow area drops off quickly. I like the color rendition, but I'm going to have to be careful with scene choice.
That is very interesing, because I have a similar experience:
I've shot E100 and Provia 100F side by side in two identical cameras with identical metering (and the same lens): The Provia 100F shots have all been perfectly exposed, wheras the E100 shots came out a bit darker with less shadow detail. As if the E100 is not an ISO 100/21 film, but more an ISO 80/20 film.
I will do further tests on this to evaluate.
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Old 11-10-2018   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiff View Post
I've shot my first Ektachrome rolls under various conditions.
And I have also did one first direct comparison test to Provia 100F.
My results so far:
1. Ektachrome E100 has very natural, neutral colors.
2. The blue of the sky is very good and better compared to the former E100G (which had a light tendency towards cyan, like unfortunately also all Kodak CN films).
3. Provia 100F seems slightly warmer (more saturated yellow and orange) than E100, E100 is a bit more on the cool side.
4. Provia 100F is sharper than E100 (that has also been the case with former E100G and E100VS). That is also confirmed by the data sheets and MTF curves of both films.
5. Provia has a bit higher resolution.
6. Fineness of grain is equal between both films.
7. Provia 100F has more exposure latitude (a result also "The Darkroom Lab" reported recently about their tests).

That is very interesing, because I have a similar experience:
I've shot E100 and Provia 100F side by side in two identical cameras with identical metering (and the same lens): The Provia 100F shots have all been perfectly exposed, whereas the E100 shots came out a bit darker with less shadow detail. As if the E100 is not an ISO 100/21 film, but more an ISO 80/20 film.
I will do further tests on this to evaluate.
Thanks Skiff, I was thinking of going to 80 also. I'd like to know your results. I'm going to be out of commission for about 3 week recovering so you will probably shoot a roll before me.
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Old 11-10-2018   #29
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Thanks Skiff, I was thinking of going to 80 also. I'd like to know your results. I'm going to be out of commission for about 3 week recovering so you will probably shoot a roll before me.
Recovering! Wha...?

Wish you well, John!
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Old 11-10-2018   #30
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Recovering! Wha...?

Wish you well, John!
Hip replacement. Thanks Dave!
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Old 11-13-2018   #31
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Thanks Skiff, I was thinking of going to 80 also. I'd like to know your results. I'm going to be out of commission for about 3 week recovering so you will probably shoot a roll before me.
You're welcome, John.
I will definitely report here again and tell you and all the other members here as soon as my further tests are finished. Promised .
I wish you all the best for your recovery!
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Old 01-20-2019   #32
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New E100 colors seem very natural IMO. I'd like just a touch more saturation though.
In the old days like others I would underexpose my slide film just a bit to achieve that.

However with this new film perhaps slight overexposure is required?
lynnb's photos at +2/3 EV seem right on. Or is it the scanning? I'm confused.

Perhaps this film's true speed is a little lower than 100.
Has anyone else tried shooting it at EI 80 or 64?

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Old 01-22-2019   #33
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Originally Posted by ChrisPlatt View Post
New E100 colors seem very natural IMO. I'd like just a touch more saturation though.
In the old days like others I would underexpose my slide film just a bit to achieve that.

However with this new film perhaps slight overexposure is required?
lynnb's photos at +2/3 EV seem right on. Or is it the scanning? I'm confused.

Perhaps this film's true speed is a little lower than 100.
Has anyone else tried shooting it at EI 80 or 64?

Chris
I agree with your comment about natural color, and Ektachrome does seem to have a bit less saturation as compared to the Fuji products. For these scans I've left the saturation alone, but whenever I scan Fuji slides I end up reducing the saturation, for what it's worth. It's best to try for yourself to see if you like it.

These were exposed at iso80 in overcast conditions and I used an 81A filter. Then I scanned them which changes everything of course. :-)









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Old 01-22-2019   #34
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Perhaps this film's true speed is a little lower than 100.
Has anyone else tried shooting it at EI 80 or 64?

Chris
Yes, I have.
I've got best results with EI 80/20. I've used calibrated exposure meters.
I have also shot Provia 100F and E100 side by side: Same conditions, same camera and lens. Provia 100F is perfect at box speed of ISO 100/21.
E100 is best at EI 80/20.
The contrast curve of E100 is also a bit steeper than Provia 100F (resulting in a bit higher dynamic range Provia has).
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Old 11-09-2018   #35
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I'm having a hard time scanning my second roll. They look good when I look at them with a loupe, but when I preview the scans, they are pretty dark. I have to pump up the levels a lot to get it close to the actual brightness. (epson v700) I don't have much issue with negative film. Kind of a bummer..
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Old 11-09-2018   #36
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I'm having a hard time scanning my second roll. They look good when I look at them with a loupe, but when I preview the scans, they are pretty dark. I have to pump up the levels a lot to get it close to the actual brightness. (epson v700) I don't have much issue with negative film. Kind of a bummer..
I agree I have very little trouble with negative film. More with E-6: try this. It is for negative film but I use a V500 which has the same software. Just use positive film instead for negative film also set it on color correction, or PM me if you have a problem:

http://www.coltonallen.com/getting-t...epson-flatbed/
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Old 11-09-2018   #37
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Quote:
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I'm having a hard time scanning my second roll. They look good when I look at them with a loupe, but when I preview the scans, they are pretty dark. I have to pump up the levels a lot to get it close to the actual brightness. (epson v700) I don't have much issue with negative film. Kind of a bummer..
The reason is that transparency film has a greater density range than negative film. What that means is that the darkest parts of a slide are a lot darker (less light passes through) than the darkest areas of a negative. Negatives are much lower in contrast than slides.

Inexpensive scanners, like the Epson flatbeds, have trouble scanning high density range images. That's why scans from negatives look good but scans from transparencies have poor shadow detail.

True film scanners like the Nikon 8000ED that I use handle transparencies far better than flatbeds, but even they have trouble with some images.
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Old 11-10-2018   #38
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I'm having a hard time scanning my second roll. They look good when I look at them with a loupe, but when I preview the scans, they are pretty dark. I have to pump up the levels a lot to get it close to the actual brightness. (epson v700) I don't have much issue with negative film. Kind of a bummer..
The problem is not the film, it is the scanner:
Flatbed scanners are the worst technology for using film. They are the imaging chain with by far the lowest quality you get from film: Extremey low resolution, they cannot record higher Dmax (shadow detail lost), they cannot fully record the whole color gamut.
We should not forget that flatbed scanners were originally designed for office use: Scanning of papers and text. That has always been their main purpose. Not photography, not film scanning. That is only a "side business".

To get the best quality from film we should use instead the imaging chains with the highest quality. The quality ranks in the following order:
1. Slide projection with excellent projection lenses (and excellent slide loupes).
On the same first class level:
1. Optical enlarging (darkroom) with APO enlarging lenses.
Second best option:
2. Drum scanners.
Third best option:
3. Minilab scanners like Noritsu HS-1800 (by the way: The Noritsu is much better for scanning transparencies than the Fuji SP 3000).
Fourth best option:
4. Real film scanners for home use, like Nikon Coolscan 9000, Coolscan 5000, Coolscan V.
Fith best option:
5. Cheaper real film scanners like Plustek 8200 etc.
Worst option:
6. Flatbed scanners.

For the first step using slides I recommend using a good lightbox, e.g. from Kaiser http://kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/prod...ment.asp?w=381
and an excellent loupe, e.g. for 35mm the Schneider-Kreuznach 4x, the Rodenstock 4x. the Leica 5x, the EMO 5x or the Peak Anastigmat 4x.
And in a second step slide projection:
Unsurpassed in resolution, color brillance and 3D effect. And unsurpassed in its extremely low costs: You get the perfect quality almost for free, because even the best projectors and lenses are available at very low prices on the used market.
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Old 11-10-2018   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiff View Post
The problem is not the film, it is the scanner:
Flatbed scanners are the worst technology for using film. They are the imaging chain with by far the lowest quality you get from film: Extremey low resolution, they cannot record higher Dmax (shadow detail lost), they cannot fully record the whole color gamut.
We should not forget that flatbed scanners were originally designed for office use: Scanning of papers and text. That has always been their main purpose. Not photography, not film scanning. That is only a "side business".

To get the best quality from film we should use instead the imaging chains with the highest quality. The quality ranks in the following order:
1. Slide projection with excellent projection lenses (and excellent slide loupes).
On the same first class level:
1. Optical enlarging (darkroom) with APO enlarging lenses.
Second best option:
2. Drum scanners.
Third best option:
3. Minilab scanners like Noritsu HS-1800 (by the way: The Noritsu is much better for scanning transparencies than the Fuji SP 3000).
Fourth best option:
4. Real film scanners for home use, like Nikon Coolscan 9000, Coolscan 5000, Coolscan V.
Fith best option:
5. Cheaper real film scanners like Plustek 8200 etc.
Worst option:
6. Flatbed scanners.

For the first step using slides I recommend using a good lightbox, e.g. from Kaiser http://kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/prod...ment.asp?w=381
and an excellent loupe, e.g. for 35mm the Schneider-Kreuznach 4x, the Rodenstock 4x. the Leica 5x, the EMO 5x or the Peak Anastigmat 4x.
And in a second step slide projection:
Unsurpassed in resolution, color brilliance and 3D effect. And unsurpassed in its extremely low costs: You get the perfect quality almost for free, because even the best projectors and lenses are available at very low prices on the used market.
7. I haven't tried this but: what if you ask your lab to do a 5x7 print and then scan it on flatbed. This will probably improve dynamic range at the cost of sharpness
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Old 11-10-2018   #40
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7. I haven't tried this but: what if you ask your lab to do a 5x7 print and then scan it on flatbed. This will probably improve dynamic range at the cost of sharpness
With a print I already have the superior quality. Why destroying that by looking at a picture on the worst viewing medium, the computer monitor?

Honestly, we live in weird times:
Most photographers pay thousands of bucks for 24, 35 or 45 MP cameras, and then pay another several hundreds for a computer monitor with a 2k (2MP) or 4k (8MP) resolution which destroys the original resolution of their camera.
If you look at your picture from your D850 with 45 MP on a 4k monitor you are looking only at an 8 MP image, and nothing more! The original 45 MP are then irrelevant.
Going this imaging chain means wasting most of your money you've invested in your camera.

Same is valid for film photographers using excellent films, than using (cheap) scanners and only viewing it on computer monitors. You loose most of the original quality.
And the quality problem with computer monitors is not only their extremely low resolution, but also the limited color gamut and that they cannot show real continuous tones (because of the discrete LCD structure).
But slides, optical prints and laser prints on silver-halide RA-4 paper don't have all these quality limitations.

I want the best quality from my negatives, transparencies and digital files. Therefore I avoid to destroy the original quality by using computer monitor view as the end result.
- My digital files are printed on real photo paper (silver-halide) with high quality laser printer systems (by professional labs).
- My negatives are printed by me in my own darkroom optically the traditional way.
- Slides are projected with the best projection lenses in unsurpassed quality. It is like "cinema at home", but the quality is even much better compared to the low resolution digital projection in today's cinemas (which is also only 4k).
And slides are viewed with my outstanding slides loupes, giving me also a much better quality than any picture on a computer monitor.
- If I want one of my slides hanging as a print on the wall a drum scan from the slide is made and then printed on silver-halide RA-4 paper. The quality is outstanding.
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