Old 06-02-2017   #201
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Huss - I really have to thank you for getting me going again with this digitizing.
I've invested in a slide copy and bellows attachment and am using my Sony A7ii w/Nikon Micro Nikkor 55 f2.8 lens.
Here is that same guy (my brother) shown in post #57 of this thread a couple years later when he was at college in Texas. I 'scanned' this with the above setup.
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Old 06-02-2017   #202
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That looks great! The 'scan' and the memory!
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Old 06-02-2017   #203
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Great shot!
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Old 06-02-2017   #204
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Quote:
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Like all my other 'scans', it took 1/125 sec to 'scan' this image thanks to using a dslr

Leica M7 + Summaron 35 w/goggles, Kodak BW400CN

Scanned with D750

Great stuff. I guess DSLR scanning is viable, lol.
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Old 06-06-2017   #205
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Minolta XK, Rokkor 35-70 3.5, Portra 400

D750 scan in 1/125 sec.

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Old 06-07-2017   #206
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Rolleiflex 2.8E, Rolleinar 1, Fuji NPS 160 exp July 2000

Nikon D750 scan

As I used a lightpad to illuminate the 120 film, this 'scan' took 1/15 sec.
Still significantly quicker than using a traditional scanner.
Crop of eye to show detail/resolution of DSLR scan:

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Old 06-08-2017   #207
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Nikkormat FT2, 35mm 2.8 non AI, Portra 400, D750 scan

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Old 06-11-2017   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post
This is an excellent, in depth tutorial:

http://www.mfphotography.ca/michael-...digital-camera
Following the method and using the Action set in the above tutorial, I want to see if I can get reasonable color from color neg film.

But, I have a slightly different strategy:
- Use flash, not incandescent light for the exposure, help offset the orange mask
- Using a Beseler Dual-Mode Duplicator with a Di-Chro head, adding cyan/magenta trying to completely offset the orange mask (so R, G, B are all balanced when I photograph the negative). With "white" light, the red channel clips first, leaving blue and green with narrow histograms.
- Ignore the image, resolution, and quality below, this is just a test for reasonable color

Here are my specifics:
- Set the di-chro for Magenta +15, Cyan +50 to offset the orange mask
- Set camera ISO 100, lens at f/4, gives good exposure, good histogram
- Trigger the (high-voltage) flash through a Wein Safe-Sync

Result is a RAW file I can convert at 4500K with very little tint, whites are white. Add a bit of clarity, and give it a full histogram, just like any scan.

Then use the Action set in the tutorial. Further adjustments: In Levels, move center slider to right. In Curves, some adjustment. Result is "close enough" and I think a good base for fine tuning. The bricks really do have a purple cast. I have white, red, and green that are close enough. This method might really work.

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Last edited by ColSebastianMoran : 06-12-2017 at 07:09. Reason: Di-chro control is Cyan. Updated with better scan, with adjustments.
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Old 06-11-2017   #209
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I shot my second roll of Washi 120 rice paper film the other day ... for details, see:
http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/s...1&postcount=13

They were scanned with the Leica SL using a BEOON and Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm lens. Here's the capture setup:





Here are a couple of the scans, rendered with a customized Camera Calibration Profile in Lightroom that automates the inversion and gamma correction processing.





(There are six more on the page linked above.)

Because the Washi 120 film is paper and tends to be wavy/curly after processing and drying, I made a channel under a glass plate to pull the film through. I used Art Tape to secure everything in position for the capture, which takes a few minutes but allows me to make the captures themselves in about 1/10 the time: just pull the film through the channel and snap a photo of each frame. All exposures were made with Daylight white balance, ISO 50 @ f/8 @ 1/8 second, using the SL's electronic shutter and the Leica SL app on an iPad to eliminate any camera movement.

G
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Old 06-12-2017   #210
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Love it Godfrey and thanks for sharing your set up.
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Old 06-12-2017   #211
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Got to thank you, Huss, for recommending the 60mm 2.8 AFS. It's made the entire process ridiculously easy since the AF locks on perfectly. I got one and since then its taken the guesswork out of focusing. The lens is also insanely sharp.
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Old 06-14-2017   #212
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You're welcome Stompy! Yeah the Nikon 60 2.8 AFS is perfect for this work.

Nikon F6, 50 1.2 AIS, Portra 400, D750 'scan' w/ 60 2.8 AFS

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Old 06-22-2017   #213
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From a rainy day in Tokyo, 2010, with new-to-me Yashica GX. Fuji 200 color neg film.



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Old 06-22-2017   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
From a rainy day in Tokyo, 2010, with new-to-me Yashica GX:



What's not to like? Those are great.
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Old 06-22-2017   #215
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Nikon D750 scan of Portra 400

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Old 06-22-2017   #216
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Fuji TX-1, 45mm, Fuji Velvia 100

D750 scan (2 shots of the film merged in LR)

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Old 06-23-2017   #217
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Here's one more from same Fuji 200 roll in Tokyo. Crummy light, overcast, down in the gorgeous Happo-En Garden.



Camera-scan with Sony A7. Invert, then Curves Option-Auto "Find Dark and Light Colors," and "Snap Neutral Midtones" (Thanks, Huss, for this!) Adjust exposure/contrast gives a reasonable image, as good as the mini-lab. Then more fiddling.
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Old 06-23-2017   #218
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Minolta SR1s, Rokkor 55 1.7, Kodak BW 400CN

D750 scan



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Old 07-23-2017   #219
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I am finding there is a learning curve to the post processing.

This is on Ilford Delta 100, developed normally in Rodinal at 1:50. Shot with my Nikon S2, "scanned" with my D7000.

I'm not sure which is best. Of course, one of my "issues" is I think whatever looks good on one monitor looks different on a different one.

First is converted to a positive, then minor tweak of the curve to increase contrast:



This is with a greater increase of contrast:



For this one, I fooled around with the contrast slider. Note the grain in the sky:

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Old 07-23-2017   #220
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Another one. Nikon S2, Jupiter-12, Ilford Delta 100:

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Old 07-23-2017   #221
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One more. Same details as above.

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Old 07-23-2017   #222
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Last one for today. S2 and 8.5cm Nikkor, Delta 100:

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Old 09-01-2017   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug A View Post
I agree that scanning color film or slides with a digital camera may not be the best solution. I can eventually get colors I like in post processing - I have and know how to use Affinity Photo, Lightroom and Photoshop - but doing so is such a PITA that it's not worth it for me. I use the Plustek 7100 for 35mm color negatives and the V700 for larger b&w or color negatives and for slides of any size.

But all of my current photography is with 35mm b&w film and scanning with the X-E2 is far and away the fastest and easiest solution for me, and it produces the best results. The BEOON mask holds the film, even Tri-X, absolutely flat and the resolution of the film grain with the X-Trans sensor and Iridient X-Transformer conversion is very very good.
Hi,
I'm trying to use a Fuji X-T10 and Componon 50 2.8 with a few adapters to scan bw negatives. I've scanned a couple of rolls so far and I see two problems: worm-like artifacts at grain level (specially when the negatives are pushed and the grain is strong) and a strange circular halo in the middle of the scan. Actually I can see the halo in the back screen of the camera too. Except that, the scans are really sharp.
Have you had any of these problems?
thanks
Antonio
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Old 09-01-2017   #224
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Welcome to RFF! First could be dust. Second could be newton rings. A detailed description of your setup and a sample photo would help us help you.
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Old 09-01-2017   #225
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Welcome to RFF! First could be dust. Second could be newton rings. A detailed description of your setup and a sample photo would help us help you.
I agree with the second but I think the first may be an artifact from Fuji's image processing.
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Old 09-02-2017   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montezuma View Post
Hi,
I'm trying to use a Fuji X-T10 and Componon 50 2.8 with a few adapters to scan bw negatives. I've scanned a couple of rolls so far and I see two problems: worm-like artifacts at grain level (specially when the negatives are pushed and the grain is strong) and a strange circular halo in the middle of the scan. Actually I can see the halo in the back screen of the camera too. Except that, the scans are really sharp.
Have you had any of these problems?
thanks
Antonio
#1 - "Worms" - I agree with the others that this is likely a form of interference artifact. One possible test would be to change the optical magnification so that you either have a smaller "scan" that doesn't fill the frame or an moderately enlarged section of the original image. If this doesn't "have worms" then it's proof that the issue is an interference artifact and the only cure is either the reduced magnification or a different original film that has a different grain size.

#2 - Center halo - This could be Newton's rings. If the film is in contact with a smooth glass or plastic surface Newton's rings are a likely occurrence. The other possible source is internal flare in the "adapters" you mention. Any internal surface that is not a matte black in any of the adapters, either between lens and original film or lens and sensor, can cause flare. This type of flare is often seen as a circular veiling haze over the center of the image.
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Old 09-02-2017   #227
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Bummer that my previous images were lost due to Photobucket changing their policy.

Here are new ones using Flickr...

Nikon F100, 50 1.8G, Kodak E100GX expired 2005, D750 scan.

E100gxS-2 by desmolicious, on Flickr
E100gxS-1 by desmolicious, on Flickr
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Old 09-04-2017   #228
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Nikon F100, 50 1.8G, Kodak E100GX expired 2005, D750 scan.
E100gxStreamer-1 by desmolicious, on Flickr
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Old 09-04-2017   #229
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Nikon FM2n, Micro Nikkor 55 2.8 AIS, Kodak Portra 400.
Scanned w/ Nikon D750.

ZeeSnowyS-1 by desmolicious, on Flickr
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Old 09-09-2017   #230
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Here a couple of mine D800 BP4/PS4 50mm f3.5 Micro Nikkor

webDSC_5182-Edit-Edit by photogsjm, on Flickr

webDSC_5174-Edit-2 by photogsjm, on Flickr

Setup works quite well. Looking forwards to shooting some more film.
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Old 09-09-2017   #231
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Nikon F3P, 55 1.2 non AI, Kodak MAX800
D750 scan

VeniceMoonriseS-1 by desmolicious, on Flickr
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Old 09-11-2017   #232
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doop
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Old 09-23-2017   #233
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I scanned this with my D7000. I spent a lot of time in post tweaking what I considered some tricky contrasty lighting conditions. As the expression goes, it looks good on MY monitor. Thoughts?

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I've been following this thread....
Old 09-23-2017   #234
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I've been following this thread....

Dear Board,

...and have learned that what I don't know could probably back fill the Pacific Ocean.

I have the following digital SLR's at my disposal, a Canon 1DMK3, a Canon EOS 40D, and a Nikon D300. I want to digitize old color negatives as well as new 35MM film negatives going forward.

What I don't know is:

Are any of these cameras suitable for the job?

If so, what lenses will provide me with the correct reproduction ratio?

If it helps with your answers here is what you need to know about me:

I'm thrifty, or more correctly spelled, cheap!

I know nothing about macro photography other than what I have discovered digitally by accident.

I don't mind fiddling around with things until the light goes on in my head.

With all that in mind would a dufus like me be better served with a flatbed scanner like a V550/600 or Canon 9000F? I don't want to spend more than $ 200.00 +/- on this process.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg, PA
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Old 09-25-2017   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Murphy View Post
I have the following digital SLR's at my disposal, a Canon 1DMK3, a Canon EOS 40D, and a Nikon D300. I want to digitize old color negatives as well as new 35MM film negatives going forward.

What I don't know is:

Are any of these cameras suitable for the job?

If so, what lenses will provide me with the correct reproduction ratio?
Any of the cameras will do.

You'll need a macro lens. Manual focus 55mm Micro-Nikkor will do. Some kind of light panel. And, some kind of stand to hold things in position. Maybe a macro-focus rail.

Or give it a try with the lenses you have; work out the tonality without good resolution, then see if you want to buy a macro lens.
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Old 09-30-2017   #236
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This one is on 120 film, "scanned" with my D7000:

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Old 10-08-2017   #237
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Just upgraded to Mac OSX High Sierra with the latest version of their Photos app. The app now supports curve adjustments, so I tried it on one of my recently digitized negatives and the results look really good. I had been using their old Aperture app and it was getting sluggish.


DSC01644 by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
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Old 10-09-2017   #238
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Well... after processing a whole roll yesterday, I think I'll stick with Aperture. Mac Photos is a cpu hog and the app crashed at least 4 times during editing. Clearly, it's not built for intense processing chores. The end results look nice, but it's not worth the frustration. Still, I hope it keeps improving.
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Old 10-10-2017   #239
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Rolleiflex MX 3.5 EVS, Fuji NPS 160 Pro.
D750 scan.
LeoZs-1 by desmolicious, on Flickr
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Old 10-13-2017   #240
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@Huss, that's great. Good skin, good sat color. How much manual effort to get the color right?
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