Old 05-16-2017   #121
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That is what I am getting now.
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Old 05-16-2017   #122
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I use Firefox, need to check my settings it seems.
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Old 05-16-2017   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post


Does this help Gabor? Weird as I can see them on my end.
I noticed the same with Huss' photos recently, while most other posters' photos show up just fine. I normally use Chrome, but Huss' photos seem to load normally in Safari. I dove into the Chrome settings, but I couldn't figure out why Huss' photos show as broken links.
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Old 05-16-2017   #124
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Can see them on my Iphone and using Firefox but not PC and using Firefox....

Beautiful colors, Huss!!
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Old 05-16-2017   #125
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Thanks Gabor! I'm posting using an iMac and Safari. I jut checked Chrome on my iMac and it still works. It's a mystery...
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Old 05-16-2017   #126
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Thanks Gabor! I'm posting using an iMac and Safari. I jut checked Chrome on my iMac and it still works. It's a mystery...
Well, I think I just solved my mystery. I'm using the HTTPS Everywhere extension in Chrome, and disabling it resolves the issue with Huss' broken links. Among the sites the extension is forcing to an encrypted connection is Photobucket, which I think is where Huss is linking his photos from.
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Old 05-16-2017   #127
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Well, I think I just solved my mystery. I'm using the HTTPS Everywhere extension in Chrome, and disabling it resolves the issue with Huss' broken links. Among the sites the extension is forcing to an encrypted connection is Photobucket, which I think is where Huss is linking his photos from.
Thanks a lot for the information! I use the same extension with Firefox.
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Old 05-17-2017   #128
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Well, today I'll get the adapter I need to mount my X-T2 to the Nikon PF copy stand I got recently. Stupid me figured it would just mount not realizing it was designed for the F system, lol. I'll have everything ready to go at that point so maybe I'll post some images today.
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Old 05-17-2017   #129
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My lightbox is giving uneven illumination. Bot a problem with 35mm (I use the center) but a problem with MF. What are you guys using? I'm looking at getting a LED lightbox so that I get even illumination. Any experience with these? How bright are they?
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Old 05-17-2017   #130
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My lightbox is giving uneven illumination. Bot a problem with 35mm (I use the center) but a problem with MF. What are you guys using? I'm looking at getting a LED lightbox so that I get even illumination. Any experience with these? How bright are they?
Pro-Mone,

I bought a Gepe cold light source light table. Pretty much it is what is used to edit slides.

Stable color temp, bright, and diffused.

My friend Richard at B&H recommended and showed me the floor sample that he says has been on for the past 5 years.

Cal
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Old 05-17-2017   #131
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Lubitel 166 Moscow Olympics commemorative edition. Expired Fuji NPS 160.
D750 full rez scan in seconds. No banding. No focus issues. Full sharpness.

From my series "Radioactive"

p.s. before SaveKodak chimes in to say that the colours are all wrong, this is exactly how it looked. I took the shot in Chernobyl, sneaking in past the guards as they were watching a youtube video of Putin letting Trump win an arm wrestling contest.

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Old 05-17-2017   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calzone View Post
Pro-Mone,

I bought a Gepe cold light source light table. Pretty much it is what is used to edit slides.

Stable color temp, bright, and diffused.

My friend Richard at B&H recommended and showed me the floor sample that he says has been on for the past 5 years.

Cal
Does Richard work at the used counter? If so, he helped me pick out my Micro-Nikkor from their used stock. I'm using that on my scanning setup, lol
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Old 05-17-2017   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post
Lubitel 166 Moscow Olympics commemorative edition. Expired Fuji NPS 160.
D750 full rez scan in seconds. No banding. No focus issues. Full sharpness.

From my series "Radioactive"

p.s. before SaveKodak chimes in to say that the colours are all wrong, this is exactly how it looked. I took the shot in Chernobyl, sneaking in past the guards as they were watching a youtube video of Putin letting Trump win an arm wrestling contest.

Wow a mixed lighting image that is "correct" from your recollection. I've yet to see skin tones that are anything close to decent. What is "full sharpness?" Is there a half setting that I'm using? I'm pretty sure my 60mp wet scans have more resolution than your 24+mp dupes. And as I pointed out in my last post in the other thread, I'm glad you pointed out the banding cause it got me to open up my scanner and clean the optical path. No more banding. DSLR dupes are no replacement for a good scan, unless you just convince yourself that "full sharpness" and wonky colors are a thing, which you seem to have done.
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Old 05-17-2017   #134
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Is there a distance from the negative the lens should sit? Is it just based on what fills the frame? I'm guessing which lens you use is important as well. Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-18-2017   #135
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Is there a distance from the negative the lens should sit? Is it just based on what fills the frame? I'm guessing which lens you use is important as well. Thanks for the help.
Just get it to fill as much of your frame as you can. This is where a macro lens helps.
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Old 05-18-2017   #136
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I've yet to see skin tones that are anything close to decent.
Perhaps you should get some sun?

I'm worrying about you.
You seem 'upset'.
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Old 05-18-2017   #137
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Mamiya 645 Pro TL, 80mm 1.9, Fuji NPS 160 expired July 2000.

Full rez scan in seconds with D750. No banding, no focus issues, full sharpness.

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Old 05-18-2017   #138
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Mamiya 645 ProTL, 45mm 2.8, Fuji NPS 160

D750 full rez scan in seconds. No banding, no focus issues, full sharpness.

"Banned"

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Old 05-18-2017   #139
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I've never ran into issues with skin tones while using this method (especially since I use ColorPerfect). I feel like the results I get are better than the Pakon I used to have (granted not as fast) and just as good if not better than the Plustek I owned (and much, much faster).

The first is Porta 400 on a cropped frame from a Rolleiflex 2.8f, skin tones look good on my monitor. The second is HP5+ (accidentally shot at EI 100 and pulled in development). I'm not sure why I would need it any sharper.

P9080003-Edit.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

MJN00004.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

This is what works best for me, and I'm happy with it. That being said, I know others that prefer using dedicated scanners. Thats what works best for them. In the end who cares??? Be happy for one another, and share results...the rest of the vitriol isn't worth it.
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Old 05-18-2017   #140
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Does Richard work at the used counter? If so, he helped me pick out my Micro-Nikkor from their used stock. I'm using that on my scanning setup, lol
C,

Richard works where they sell paper and chemistry. In that area they sell viewing booths and darkroom related equipment.

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Old 05-18-2017   #141
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I wonder what is the good, the bad or the ugly of using stitching to create a massive file if one needs one for specifically, high IQ and printing big.

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Old 05-18-2017   #142
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Just get it to fill as much of your frame as you can. This is where a macro lens helps.
Good to know. I was obsessing over filling the frame fully. Using an ai micro-Nikkor 55mm 3.5.
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Old 05-18-2017   #143
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Have any of you compared your digital copy stand generated images with the same slide or neg digitized on a Nikon Coolscan 5000? I have a 5000 that I'm about to get repaired, and the time it has been out of calibration has left me wondering if a trip to Nikon service is worth it (knowing that the software and hardware will eventually be unsupported as tech moves on).

At any rate I miss my hybrid film/digital workflow and your "scans" all look great!
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Old 05-18-2017   #144
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I wonder what is the good, the bad or the ugly of using stitching to create a massive file if one needs one for specifically, high IQ and printing big.

Cal
I use stiching to 'scan' by negs made from my Xpan. Stich together 2 shots to make one. Works great. I think what you mean though is taking one image (say a 6by9 neg) and instead of taking just one shot/scan of it (the way I do now), take four at say 4:1 magnification. Then stich those to make one huge file/image.
I don't have the lens (or lens + macro rings) for this, but it is very interesting and would be fun to test. I would think that maybe the problem that you could run into the limits of the film resolution.
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Old 05-18-2017   #145
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Have any of you compared your digital copy stand generated images with the same slide or neg digitized on a Nikon Coolscan 5000? I have a 5000 that I'm about to get repaired, and the time it has been out of calibration has left me wondering if a trip to Nikon service is worth it (knowing that the software and hardware will eventually be unsupported as tech moves on).

At any rate I miss my hybrid film/digital workflow and your "scans" all look great!
If you already have a digi cam + macro lens you may want to give it a try anyway to see which direction u want to go.
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Old 05-18-2017   #146
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P9080003-Edit.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

MJN00004.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
Excellent work! I'm looking forward to using B&W film but I am burning through my ancient Fuji NPS stock before it turns into dust! The B&W is patiently waiting for me in my freezer.
B&W film is easier to work with IMO.
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Old 05-18-2017   #147
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Have any of you compared your digital copy stand generated images with the same slide or neg digitized on a Nikon Coolscan 5000? I have a 5000 that I'm about to get repaired, and the time it has been out of calibration has left me wondering if a trip to Nikon service is worth it (knowing that the software and hardware will eventually be unsupported as tech moves on).

At any rate I miss my hybrid film/digital workflow and your "scans" all look great!
I directly compared several negatives with a Coolscan 4000 and my DSLR scanning rig (which is a lot more primitive than what Huss is using). The DSLR rig handily beat the coolscan both in sharpness and DR.
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Old 05-18-2017   #148
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I use stiching to 'scan' by negs made from my Xpan. Stich together 2 shots to make one. Works great. I think what you mean though is taking one image (say a 6by9 neg) and instead of taking just one shot/scan of it (the way I do now), take four at say 4:1 magnification. Then stich those to make one huge file/image.
I don't have the lens (or lens + macro rings) for this, but it is very interesting and would be fun to test. I would think that maybe the problem that you could run into the limits of the film resolution.
Huss,

You know me enough, and you are correct. I would want to stitch together sections of a large negative to somewhat magnify resolution via file size, meaning big files of 120 films.

I'm just curious about trade offs, possible artifacts, difficulties, but the technology seems so good that I have not heard of any issues.

I have a Beoon, a 65 Viso Elmar, and Nikon F-mount 55/2.8 AIS with the 1:1 extension tube. I would be using a Leica SL for image capture. In my case it would only be for "digitizing" B&W film.

BTW I use to call my Monochrom a "hand scanner" which of course annoyed people. LOL.

Cal
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Old 05-18-2017   #149
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I wonder what is the good, the bad or the ugly of using stitching to create a massive file if one needs one for specifically, high IQ and printing big.
I have digitized a few 6x6 negatives with two exposures using my BEOON/X-E2/50mm Componon rig, stitching them together with Affinity Photo. I have had no issues. I tried the same thing with six exposures but the resulting file size was more than my little MacBook Air could handle.
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Old 05-18-2017   #150
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I have digitized a few 6x6 negatives with two exposures using my BEOON/X-E2/50mm Componon rig, stitching them together with Affinity Photo. I have had no issues. I tried the same thing with six exposures but the resulting file size was more than my little MacBook Air could handle.
Doug,

Thanks for your response. Also I like how you did the experiment and went a little crazy. My kinda guy.

Brutal I say. LOL.

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Old 05-18-2017   #151
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Stitching software really has become incredible. I tried it out for the first time a little while ago with multiple digital images (intentionally shot to make a pano) and was blown away by the result. I am looking forward to doing the same with film images after I have DSLR scanned them, thanks for reminding me about that Cal!
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Old 05-18-2017   #152
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This thread has been very helpful in giving very good information as I need to scan many hundreds of slides and also goodness knows how many 35mm B+W negatives.
I am close to purchasing a Nikon D500 as I need 4K video and don't have the money for a full frame 4K.
It would be good to know if anyone has experience of scanning with the D500 and recommendations for a Nikon DX AF 1:1 Macro Lens.

Thanks
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Old 05-18-2017   #153
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This thread has been very helpful in giving very good information as I need to scan many hundreds of slides and also goodness knows how many 35mm B+W negatives.
I am close to purchasing a Nikon D500 as I need 4K video and don't have the money for a full frame 4K.
It would be good to know if anyone has experience of scanning with the D500 and recommendations for a Nikon DX AF 1:1 Macro Lens.
Harry,

To scan full frame 35mm with a 1.5x crop camera, you need a magnification of about 1:2 (half-life-size), not 1:1. You don't need a "DX" macro lens: any Nikon mount macro lens will do fine. If you want AF and full meter coupling, any of these three should do you just fine:

(new prices)
Nikon AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G Macro Lens $279

Nikon AF-S Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED Lens $596
Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D Lens $516

Obviously, hunting around can find you a good used lens at a reasonable discount.

G
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Old 05-18-2017   #154
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Mamiya 645 Pro TL, 45mm 2.8 lens.
D750 scan

Same ol' crusty 17 year old Fuji NPS 160

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Old 05-18-2017   #155
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Godfrey,
Your advice is much appreciated
Many thanks
Harry
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Old 05-19-2017   #156
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M3SS, Summaron 35 3.5, Portra 400

D750 scan






The white balance is what you decide it to be when you edit. The beauty of a hybrid workflow.
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Old 05-22-2017   #157
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Huss,

I presume your D750 has no AA (anti-Aliasing) filter?

Looks really good right out of the camera. Pretty much only minor tweaking required.

Confidently makes great 13x19, but how much bigger would you be able to print? Just my way to judge IQ via print size.

Thanks in advance.

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Old 05-22-2017   #158
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... I presume your D750 has no AA (anti-Aliasing) filter? ...
D750s have an AA filter.

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Old 05-22-2017   #159
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D750s have an AA filter.

G
Godfrey,

Thanks.

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Old 05-22-2017   #160
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With regard to the question of print size, I was making exhibition quality 20x24 inch prints with a 5Mpixel Olympus E-1 a decade ago. With a 24Mpixel camera, far as I'm concerned the sky is the limit. A 13x20" full frame print is 300 ppi output.

It really just depends on how good a negative you have when it comes to outputting captured film images, and on what your expectations are.

With the Leica SL and a good enough Minox 8x11mm negative, I can make an exhibition quality 11x14" print without doing any unusual upscaling, etc. That's a 33x negative to print enlargement, way beyond anything I'd attempt in a darkroom for the same quality.

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