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Tom Abrahamsson of RapidWinder.com It is almost never that an inventor improves on a Leica product so that it is better than the original Leica product. Tom holds that distinction with his RapidWinder for Leica M rangefinders -- a bottom mounting baseplate trigger advance. In addition Tom manufacturers other Leica accessories such as his very popular Soft Release and MiniSoftRelease shutter releases. Tom is well known as one of the true Leica rangefinder experts, even by Leica. IMPORTANT READ THIS: CWE Forum hosts have moderation powers within their forum. Please observe copyright laws by not copying and posting their material elsewhere without permission.

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Motion Picture Bulk Stock
Old 09-09-2012   #1
LeicaVirgin1
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Motion Picture Bulk Stock

Dear Tom-

Thanks again for reading another one of my post. I just shot a few bulk loaded rolls of ORWON74+ and noticed much scartching.... Especially, horizontally across the full frame? Has this happened to you?

You know HCB use to take 100' bulk loads and under a dark blanket bulk-load his cassettes. He was using Tri-X of course. He did not use a BULK-LOADER like the rest of us. He would turn the cassette 40 times to get 36 exps?

It kinda reminded me of your YOU-TUBE Demo on how to load LEICA RE-USABLE CASSETTES with the portable scissors and all...

Does the difference in the emulsion matter when it comes to scratching.

It wasn't the whole roll, (36exp) just a few exposures here and there?

Thoughts?

LV1
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Old 09-10-2012   #2
Tom A
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Did you use metal or plastic cassettes? The felt trap on these can easily scratch the emulsion. Also check the pressure plate on the camera as if there is anything stuck on it - it can do that - though that normally goes the full length of the film.
Sounds like you have dirty felt traps though - check them when you load and try to clean them. The IXMOO cassette works better as it has an almost 10 mm opening when in the camera and the edges of the cassette never touches the film.
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Old 09-12-2012   #3
LeicaVirgin1
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I did not use the LEICA ones you describe; even though I have a few lying around. I used those cheap metal ones with the felt that hangs all ove the place + I am sure my loading on my bulk loader LLOYD is not the greatest because it is on CORES and not a daylight spool; bummer!

I have a few extra questions for your knowleadgable brain. Would you get a light-leak on an M2 if you had the wrong take-up spindle. I noticed I have a spare M2 Take-up spindle and it lokks different than what is inside my M3. The spare M2 take-up spindle is more squat on the spring-side and not as long as the ones I have seen in my M3, but my current M2 has the same Take-Up spindle as the M3; this is when I took possession from the LEICA-SHOP... Could it be the wrong spindle causing these intermittent light leaks?

Next Q: I have a 1961 50mm Summilux f1.4 v.2 and I sometimes screw on filters. This time I screwed on a B+W F-Pro-MRC-Yellow/Green to do some experimenting. Well, when I was done I began to unscrew the filter and what I thought was the filter unscrewing it was the front lens HEAD! My hand was firmly on the filter and my other was grasping the full body of the lens... I could not believe it! When I tried to return the from lens-HEAD to its original place nothing lined up properly; like before! F-stop were of the mark, (dot) and the centerline was of too for DOF... Does this happen often with these lenses?

Thanks for reading my questions and I do hope you are feeling better?

Cheers,

LV!
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Old 09-15-2012   #4
Tom A
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The spool is probably a IIIg/IIIf spool and should work fine. Should not cause light leaks anyway. Just check that it fits snugly over the shaft. Nothing worse than having it "spinning" or just not take up the slack properly.
The 50 Summilux and several other Leica lenses can have this problem. You dont have to apply that must torque to have the lens head unscrew. You might have to reseat the head and probably try to align the dot and infinity mark. Sound a like you not only managed to unscrew the lens-head - but also slightly "twist" the aperture ring assembly. Carefully screw the lens-head in place and then very carefully try to turn the aperture index mark and DOF scale ring back to normal. careful when you screw in the lenshead and check that it is smoothly engaging in the thread. This is one part you dont want to "cross thread". You might have to try it a couple of time to see if the f-stop index/DOF scale index line up too. Dont use too much force either.
My Summilux 50's hasen't done this - but a couple of the 35f1.4's and Summicron 50's have done it - and the latest one was my Super Elmar 21f3.4, where the whole lens assembly popped out of it - and landed on a tiled floor!!! Seems to work though - shot some tests last week and looks OK.
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Old 09-15-2012   #5
Rico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaVirgin1 View Post
Next Q: I have a 1961 50mm Summilux f1.4 v.2 and I sometimes screw on filters. This time I screwed on a B+W F-Pro-MRC-Yellow/Green to do some experimenting. Well, when I was done I began to unscrew the filter and what I thought was the filter unscrewing it was the front lens HEAD!
My lens of similar vintage also loosened from casual handling, and I was quite surprised by this "feature". As a Visoflex junkie, I am familiar with lens heads that unscrew off the barrel, and I proceeded to separate the 'lux halves. On seeing the naked aperture mechanism, I immediately realized this was not proper procedure. Could be handy if I want to jerry-rig a Waterhouse stop, though.
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Rico Tudor. Leica M4, IIIb, 28, 35, 50, 90, 135, 280. Contax T, RTS; Canon; Nikon; Sony; Profoto
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