Originally Posted by sepiareverb
Small prints, long exposures in my experience. Film base is nearly an OC safelight filter. Had many students shoot color film by mistake over the years. I'll agree on graded paper being helpful for getting better contrast, filters will draw out exposure time even more.
I wonder if some blue filter could negate the film base, but again then times would go through the roof...
Yes, the base tint is one of the evil issues here, but not the only one.
A blue filter can't be of any help because it one removes light, it doesn't add blue. Replacing the light source with one that produces more light on the blue can help with exposure times, but if it is too dominantly blue it will aggravate the other issue.
This other issue is that the negative's image is constructed of different colored dyes that span the whole visible spectrum and ordinary B&W paper is color blind. No matter what you do the fix the exposure time and the contrast problems you will be left with an odd subset of the tonal values in the image. Some relatively monochromatic subjects can reproduce adequately, but other images, particularly very colorful ones, can yield odd results.
This is the primary reason Kodak offered their Panalure papers for years. These were altered panochromatic papers which mimiced the total spectral sensitivity curve of the typical Type-C color papers and require either total darkness or the extremely dim safelight that was recommended for Type-C papers. You'll fog Panalure if you use it under the usual B&W safelights.