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Need M42 Body For Yashinon 55/1.2 DS-M
Old 06-03-2015   #1
wjlapier
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Need M42 Body For Yashinon 55/1.2 DS-M

I've had this lens for a long time but never got around to using it. It's near new. I've thought about selling it but might want to actually use it. Can you guys recommend a M42 body I could use this with? Anything with AE? FWIW, the tiny pin in the back of the lens was once bent slightly. I pushed it in and its now stuck in there. So, maybe I can't use an auto M42 if there is such a thing?

Thanks!
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Old 06-03-2015   #2
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You'll want to get that fixed if you wish to you use auto aperture.

As to bodies. I use my Contax or Pentax bodies with an m42 adapter and stopped down metering and AE.
Focus wide open, stop down to desired aperture, shoot.
The body meters the shutter speed TTL.
It's a great lens. I had it and the ML version in the past.
I would buy one again given the chance.... awesome on 5D
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Old 06-03-2015   #3
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Chinon CE3 should be AE priority, also the Fujica ST901 is AE priority, but you can't use it manually, I think the Chinon is better even if I'm not sure as I haven't used that camera.
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Old 06-03-2015   #4
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How about a bessaflex?
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Old 06-03-2015   #5
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Yashica Electro AX.
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Old 06-03-2015   #6
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solid, dependable, but needs SR44 batteries to function at all shutter speeds. the camera is as small as the OM1.

Cosina CSM. I have one paired up with my takumar 50mm f1.4. very nice combo.

https://camerajunky.wordpress.com/20...04/cosina-csm/
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Old 06-03-2015   #7
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+1

I have a new adapter, but may not find it in this lifetime, -- found it new in the box, made by Pentax, -- --$15 sounds about what I paid. They should be common.

I would think most of the usual suspects could quickly fix your pin problem most reasonably.

Regards, John


Quote:
Originally Posted by f16sunshine View Post
You'll want to get that fixed if you wish to you use auto aperture.

As to bodies. I use my Contax or Pentax bodies with an m42 adapter and stopped down metering and AE.
Focus wide open, stop down to desired aperture, shoot.
The body meters the shutter speed TTL.
It's a great lens. I had it and the ML version in the past.
I would buy one again given the chance.... awesome on 5D
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Old 06-04-2015   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlapier View Post
I've had this lens for a long time but never got around to using it. It's near new. I've thought about selling it but might want to actually use it. Can you guys recommend a M42 body I could use this with? Anything with AE? FWIW, the tiny pin in the back of the lens was once bent slightly. I pushed it in and its now stuck in there. So, maybe I can't use an auto M42 if there is such a thing?

Thanks!
There never were very many auto exposure options with the M42 mount. And the very best options did not have it. If you want to use the lens on a native M42 body, frankly I would abandon any possibility of auto exposure.

The Zeiss Ikon Icarex TM is a really nicely made fully mechanical M42 camera, speeded from 1/1000 to 1/2s + Bulb. Admittedly, the meters were never the most sophisticated ones used in M42.

Alternatively, a Yashica TL Electro X is one of the best featured M42 bodies and would be a good platform for your lens. It has accurate electronic control of shutter speeds which range from 1/1000 down to around four or five seconds, plus Bulb. Speeds are fully variable between stops across the whole shutter speed range and it has a true mirror lock up. Stop down metering but the illuminated "over" and "under" arrows are always easy to see. 100% battery dependant though and you only get a 1/1000 speed if they go flat. But batteries are cheap and easy to find and you can even stack a few button cells if it comes to that.

A Pentax Spotmatic is a sound choice but they do not always have accurate shutter speeds across the film gate as they age, so I would recommend checking this point carefully before purchasing any candidate.

Fujica SLRs are under rated. They are reasonably light, have excellent meters and some of the brightest viewfinders you will find in an M42 camera body. I think the ST801 is the pick of the Fujicas, because it features a 1/2000 shutter speed and easy to see metering in the finder, but the ST705 goes to 1/1500 which is nearly as good. The ST605 or 605N are also pleasant to use, but have a maximum 1/700 shutter speed, rather than 1/1000. They are all fully mechanical, needing a battery only for the light metering.

All the above feature auto stop down of the lens aperture.

If you have the skills, I suggest removing the rear lens mount of the lens so the pin can be satisfactorily straightened. With most M42 lenses this is not usually very hard to do, but perhaps someone who has worked on this particular lens can be more specific.
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Old 06-04-2015   #9
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The most convenient would be one of the native Fujicas since I doubt many others will have the automatic diaphragm operation with that lens; you'll have to stop down manually. I think the Fujica st701, st801 and st901 (which has aperture priority) were the top of the line for the Fuji m42 cameras. They seem nice bodies, more compact than they look in photos.
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Old 06-04-2015   #10
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There are no real auto cameras out there for a Yashinon 55mm lens.
Auto from that period of time, means automatically stopping down from wide open(to focus) to set aperture.
The body list is long.
The best are the Spotmatic.
Many available, but few now with working meters..
You can fit lens on adapter to fit K-Mount.
Pentax K1000.No "Auto" feature.
In M42 are Fuji SLR.
The ones marked with "750" top speed are (probably) marked correctly.
Few shutters have a real 1000, it's about 750th!
The Fuji has bright viewfinder with most inconvenient meter switch.
The Zeiss Icarex are plain lousy cameras.(my experiences).
The original Praktica is M42.
It is the original mount..
I have one that works well and assume many do!
Strangest shutter noise, the mirror going up well before shutter release..
All of these bodies are dirt cheap.
Many of mine Free or from $10, $20.
Get any and start shooting!
I don't know the Yashinon lens.
Maybe consider getting a whole camera, Pentax Spotmatic with lens.
The "pin" needs to be straightened and adjusted..
The Pentax Takumars are really nice.

Last edited by leicapixie : 06-04-2015 at 01:53. Reason: added Pentax Spotmatic, as maybe thought endorsing Praktica.
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Old 06-04-2015   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leicapixie View Post
There are no real auto cameras out there for a Yashinon 55mm lens.
Auto from that period of time, means automatically stopping down from wide open(to focus) to set aperture.
The body list is long.
The best are the Spotmatic.
Many available, but few now with working meters..
You can fit lens on adapter to fit K-Mount.
Pentax K1000.No "Auto" feature.
In M42 are Fuji SLR.
The ones marked with "750" top speed are (probably) marked correctly.
Few shutters have a real 1000, it's about 750th!
The Fuji has bright viewfinder with most inconvenient meter switch.
This post is incorrect: for Aperture priority there are three cameras in M42 that fullfil the description, the Fujica ST901, the Spotmatic ES and the Chinon CE-3, I have the first and works fine, I assume the ES as well.

The CE-3 is better because it also works in manual mode and doesn't need proprietary lenses.

The ST705 and 901 have the meter switch into the shutter release as usual, the top speed for the 705 is 1500, for the 801 is 2000 and 901 1000.
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Old 06-04-2015   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulfthari View Post
This post is completely incorrect: for Aperture priority there are three cameras in M42 that fullfil the description, the Fujica ST901, the Spotmatic ES and the Chinon CE-3, I have the first and works fine, I assume the ES as well.

The CE-3 is better because it also works in manual mode and doesn't need proprietary lenses.

The ST705 and 901 have the meter switch into the shutter release as usual, the top speed for the 705 is 1500, for the 801 is 2000 and 901 1000.
The Yashica Electro AX is an aperture priority M42 camera, and it is the reason that the DS and DS-M lenses were made, because the earlier DX lenses protruded too far into the camera body for them to work on it. So if the OP would wish to be historically correct with his choice of camera, the AX would be the proper choice.
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Old 06-04-2015   #13
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As has been said, I don't know of any camera, M42 or otherwise, that can take a lens not made for that camera, to use open aperture metering. There has to be a coupling between the lens and camera, that the camera's light metering system understands. Your 55mm f/1.2 wasn't designed with that in mind, but rather for stop-down aperture metering.

However, many cameras allow the use of that lens. I think any M42 camera would be able to use it in stop-down mode. There are even cameras that have the AE feature that will respond to stop-down metering. The Fujica ST 801 and 901 will both work that way, but of course the 801 has no AE. The 901 does and it works well. I have used a lot of non-AE coupled M42 lenses on my ST 901, despite what some have said above. As someone mentioned, you just have to close the DOF down by pushing it in, then turn it to lock it. Open the aperture, focus, and close down. The camera will automatically and steplessly choose the correct speed.

Somebody mentioned the Yashica AX. It was AE, but in this case would require stop-down metering. In fact, for some reason I think I read all lenses did, since prior to the AX, Yashica had no AE, and all their prior lenses would have had to be used in that mode.

Pentax had a AE M42 camera just prior to going to the bayonet. I don't remember the model name, but it may have been Pentax EM, or am I thinking of the first auto Nikon?

If AE isn't necessary to you, given that the Fuji 901 is I think, the only body to do AE so effortlessly with non-AE lenses, you should not worry about using any of many M42 cameras of the 60s and 70s, that use stop-down metering.

I have had and used a Yashica TL Super and Electro X. If you get one working properly you won't be disappointed. But the TL Supers working properly are hard to find considering their age. Interestingly, the Electro X, which is younger if not by much, seems to have held up better. I have and have used a Fujica ST 801. Fine camera, but I don't think most people use the 1/2000 second shutter. I certainly don't. Some of the newer bayonet cameras will use M42 lenses with an adapter, but again, metering, if possible, will have to be stop-down. I have used a Contax 139Q that way. I think my Contax 167mt works that way too, but I'm not sure since I've never tried to use any of my M42 lenses on it.

Good luck with your lens. I have often wanted one but never wanted to pay the price for one. It has been a classic for a long time. But f/1.4 has served me quite well and I don't think I need f/1.2. The 50mm f/1.4 with the in-camera shutter display has allowed me to get most photos I wanted in low light.

I would consider fixing the aperture pin, whether you can do it yourself (but only if you have some experience), or send it out. As I said, it is a classic lens and deserves to live on for a long time.
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Old 06-04-2015   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leicapixie View Post
...
You can fit lens on adapter to fit K-Mount.
...
While technically true, this is not a viable options with the OP's lens unless he doesn't have the diaphragm stopdown pin repaired.

A properly working DS-M seriels m42 lens there is no way to stop down the iris except by using a control on the body, either a DOF Preview function or the metering function on a stop-down TTL metering body. Unlike the Asahi Pentax Takumars, the DS-M lenses lack there own DOF preview function. If fixed, the OP's lens would work at f/1.2 only when used with a K-mount adapter.

The adapters for some other body mounts will sometimes have a ridge to press the pin, leaving the lens in a fully manual mode. These would be usable.
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Old 06-04-2015   #15
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The Electro AX requires you to advance the film to activate the meter and automation, and the manual suggests that you focus before advancing. The camera would then stop down automatically to the correct aperture for proper exposure. There is an aperture preview button if you need to recompose or change focus. It could be used in this way with any Auto M42 lenses.

The Pentax Spotmatic ES offered aperture-priority automation, but only with a specific group of Takumar lenses.

Your pin was likely disabled on purpose by someone who wished to use the lens on a DSLR, as the DS and DS-M lenses lack the A/M switch of the earlier DX lenses.
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Old 06-04-2015   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyscale View Post
The Electro AX requires you to advance the film to activate the meter and automation, and the manual suggests that you focus before advancing. The camera would then stop down automatically to the correct aperture for proper exposure. There is an aperture preview button if you need to recompose or change focus. It could be used in this way with any Auto M42 lenses.

The Pentax Spotmatic ES offered aperture-priority automation, but only with a specific group of Takumar lenses.

Your pin was likely disabled on purpose by someone who wished to use the lens on a DSLR, as the DS and DS-M lenses lack the A/M switch of the earlier DX lenses.
Interesting. I never heard of having to advance the film to turn on the meter, and couldn't find it in the manual on the Butkus site. But I wouldn't know one way or the other as I never had one in my hand, much less used one. By the time the AX came out, I already had my Fujica 901.
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Old 06-04-2015   #17
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The yashica electro SLR's are pretty groovey cameras but!

I've never had one that kept working electronically. Something always gives up.
Also the glue used to fix the mirrors in those cameras is crumbling to bits.
If you find a camera that is working, remove the mirror and re-fix it before putting the camera into service.

As to using manual aperture. The M42-Pentax K and M42 to Yashica adapters that I have push the pin in on sto engage the diaphram manually.
Naturally a Bayonet mount camera would not have a mechanism to push the pin in for auto diaphram on a non bayonet lens.
The adapters have a rim on the very interior of their ring that pushes in the pin.
Be cautous when attaching. It may be the reason the pin was originall bent
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Old 06-04-2015   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f16sunshine View Post
The yashica electro SLR's are pretty groovey cameras but!

I've never had one that kept working electronically. Something always gives up.
Also the glue used to fix the mirrors in those cameras is crumbling to bits.
If you find a camera that is working, remove the mirror and re-fix it before putting the camera into service.

As to using manual aperture. The M42-Pentax K and M42 to Yashica adapters that I have push the pin in on sto engage the diaphram manually.
Naturally a Bayonet mount camera would not have a mechanism to push the pin in for auto diaphram on a non bayonet lens.
The adapters have a rim on the very interior of their ring that pushes in the pin.
Be cautous when attaching. It may be the reason the pin was originall bent
That's a good point about the mirrors. All of mine have been OK, but two of a friend's Electro Xs have had mirror issues: one came adrift; the other broke in half before it came off its perch. So replacing the mirror damping foam is probably a very good idea, too. I've done that with mine. Meters can go out of range due to component ageing I believe, often beyond the scope of the factory adjustment procedure to correct. I've had no actual problems with the shutter control and it can be calibrated, if needed, much more easily than the meters via the relevant trim pot under the lower cover.
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Old 06-04-2015   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oftheherd View Post
Interesting. I never heard of having to advance the film to turn on the meter, and couldn't find it in the manual on the Butkus site. But I wouldn't know one way or the other as I never had one in my hand, much less used one. By the time the AX came out, I already had my Fujica 901.
Perhaps I misunderstood the manual the first time that I read it. The camera meters open aperture, but stops down on film advance. It is a bit of a convoluted system, and does not allow for changes in exposure after composing the shot. This might explains why the camera was such a financial disaster for Yashica.

Well, that and the fact that they designed it to work with most legacy lenses, except for their own most popular ones.
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Old 06-04-2015   #20
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Originally Posted by Greyscale View Post
Perhaps I misunderstood the manual the first time that I read it. The camera meters open aperture, but stops down on film advance. It is a bit of a convoluted system, and does not allow for changes in exposure after composing the shot. This might explains why the camera was such a financial disaster for Yashica.

Well, that and the fact that they designed it to work with most legacy lenses, except for their own most popular ones.
I think you are right. Even in Korea, I never saw one, and haven't seen one since either. It's been a long time, but it seems it came out just before they made the switch to their bayonet cameras and lenses. They might not have had their best people working on design. I think it was a little expensive for what it offered as well. I think I remember thinking it wasn't sufficiently advanced beyond my TL Super to spend that much (whatever is was) for it. Other manufacturers were beyond it, including Yashica themselves for that matter.
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Old 06-04-2015   #21
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By the time the AX was in the planning stages, "Top Secret Project 130" (the agreement with Zeiss to produce the new line of Contax SLR cameras) was already well underway. But the AX was a great disappointment, I'm sure, in that with the TL Electro X, Yashica seemed poised to join the ranks of top tier producers under their own brand.
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Old 06-04-2015   #22
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Lens:
IMG_1467

IMG_1466

Thanks for the info on different bodies and things to look out for.

My original plan was to have SK Grimes convert the mount to F for Nikon, but never got around to sending it in. They did two other lenses in the past and for the most part I was happy. Canon FD 35/2.8 T/S and Canon FD 85/1.2L. The 85 rear went too far into a Nikon body and had other issues with the Nikon mount I could never figure out. Adapters worked fine with it on m4/3, but that wasn't why I spent the money to have it done. Hence my hesitant to have this lens done. I'm thinking I would have the same issue with the rear of the lens.

So, I'm now thinking of using it on a m42 camera, or adapt it somehow to another--Maybe Canon AE-1? I haven't got that far with the research about film plane to flange differences.

So, I'll keep looking into it.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-04-2015   #23
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Oh, and I noticed the asking prices of this lens has doubled since I last looked into selling it. Amazing.
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Old 06-04-2015   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlapier View Post
Lens: IMG_1467 IMG_1466 Thanks for the info on different bodies and things to look out for. My original plan was to have SK Grimes convert the mount to F for Nikon, but never got around to sending it in. They did two other lenses in the past and for the most part I was happy. Canon FD 35/2.8 T/S and Canon FD 85/1.2L. The 85 rear went too far into a Nikon body and had other issues with the Nikon mount I could never figure out. Adapters worked fine with it on m4/3, but that wasn't why I spent the money to have it done. Hence my hesitant to have this lens done. I'm thinking I would have the same issue with the rear of the lens. So, I'm now thinking of using it on a m42 camera, or adapt it somehow to another--Maybe Canon AE-1? I haven't got that far with the research about film plane to flange differences. So, I'll keep looking into it. Thanks again.
Nikon, Canon Fd/Fl ..... Won't convert without a glass element.
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Old 06-04-2015   #25
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Both the FD 35/2.8 and 85/1.2L were converted to F. I still have the 85/1.2.

The 35/2.8 T/S mounted on any Nikon body I have/had. The 85 wouldn't without serious modification to the mirror and top part of the inside of the mount. I managed to finally mount the 85 on a shaved mirror F3.
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Old 06-04-2015   #26
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Yes I'm sorry. I meant M42 will not convert to Nikon Or canon Fd/fl.
The m42 register is too short to reach infinity on a Nikon body.
You would only have close focus/macro ability.
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Old 06-04-2015   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f16sunshine View Post
Yes I'm sorry. I meant M42 will not convert to Nikon Or canon Fd/fl.
The m42 register is too short to reach infinity on a Nikon body.
You would only have close focus/macro ability.
Thanks for the info.

I once converted a Minolta 58/1.2 lens to Nikon F. A lot of sanding and the spacer was getting thin. I never got further than 20ft. And on a D700 the mirror hit the rear of the lens at 15ft.

Anyway, I'll look at the recommended cameras to use the Tomioka lens.

I'm still at a loss as to why I would need the pin fixed. The aperture opens and closes just fine. I guess I need to see the working parts of a m42 camera.
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Old 06-04-2015   #28
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Thanks for the info.

I once converted a Minolta 58/1.2 lens to Nikon F. A lot of sanding and the spacer was getting thin. I never got further than 20ft. And on a D700 the mirror hit the rear of the lens at 15ft.

Anyway, I'll look at the recommended cameras to use the Tomioka lens.

I'm still at a loss as to why I would need the pin fixed. The aperture opens and closes just fine. I guess I need to see the working parts of a m42 camera.
Well, if the pin is jammed in the lens has essentially converted itself to a manual aperture lens. But if you wanted it to work they way it was designed to, with automatic stop down on an M42 body (and this is after all what you started the discussion about) then the pin would need to be remedied so it is free to move, in order for the bar inside the throat of M42 bodies to be able to depress it when the shutter is fired.
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Old 06-04-2015   #29
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If it were mine, it would be on my TL Electro X ITS.
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Old 06-04-2015   #30
leicapixie
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I still don't see Full Automation as we all understand it now!
Some Pentax had an additional pin and a piece of metal for precise positioning.
The screw mount can vary the place where pin can be pushed in, to close diaphragm.
Changing mounts is both daring, dangerous and expensive..
Canon with FT, A-series were thinner bodies than Pentax and Nikon-F.
The Canon FT, A-series bodies can all have an adapter to accept M42 and Nikon-F.
The lenses would require stop down to use.
My Chinon SLR is aperture auto, but K-Mount.
If it was my lens, sell, move on.
It's only a lens..
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Old 06-04-2015   #31
tunalegs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlapier View Post
I'm still at a loss as to why I would need the pin fixed. The aperture opens and closes just fine. I guess I need to see the working parts of a m42 camera.
I don't want to sound intelligence insulting, but this is a very basic thing. In an SLR you view an image projected onto the ground glass from the lens. To make viewing and focusing easier, SLR lenses are engineered so that the lens diaphragm is wide open any time the shutter is not in operation - so that the viewfinder is bright and the image easy to focus. When the shutter is fired the lens diaphragm automatically stops down from wide open to the selected aperture to give the desired exposure.

If the pin on an M42 camera is pushed in the lens does not operate like that. The diaphragm remains stopped down to whatever f/stop is selected instead of remaining open until the shutter is fired. Even though the lens is still useable, one loses the bright, easy focusing without a functional aperture pin.

If you have any SLRs you can set the f/stop to a small aperture, then fire the shutter and watch the diaphragm stop down then reopen.
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Old 06-05-2015   #32
CameraQuest
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Aperture Priority AE with ANY Pentax Screw Mount 42mm Lens

It seems about a zillion 42mm Screw Mount SLRs were made, by about a million different manufacturers. OK, so maybe I exaggerated a little bit. Anyway, the standard metering for most of them was the none too popular stop down mode, because it meant a darkening of the SLR finder before you took the pic. Some manufactures offered later 42mm mounts and lenses which were modified to allow full aperture metering, some even allow full aperture AE. The problem is that most makers used their own system, which would NOT give full aperture metering on other cameras.

A few cameras ingeniously were able to use ALL 42mm lenses with Aperture Priority AE exposure. They did it by taking the exposure reading just after the lens stopped down, and just before the shutter opened. This rather short list is useful if you are searching for a convenient AE body for your screw mount lenses. The ones I know about are:

Chinon CE Memotron, advanced silicon metering system, 2-1/2000th second shutter, aka GAF L-ES, Sears 2000 ES.
Chinon CE2 Memotron, advanced silicon metering system, 1-1/2000th second shutter, aka GAF L-ES2, Argus CR3E
Chinon CE-3 Memotron, all of the above in a compact body.
Side note: the Chinons seem relatively dependable cameras, but NOT the trouble prone CE-3 winder!

The Chinons offered advanced features such as motor drive, radio control, intervolmeter, and a very advanced Data Back.

Cosina Hi-Lite EC 4-1/2000th, silicon metering, aka Argus / Cosina EC 2000
Cosina Hi Lite ECII, AE hold added, spot and averaging meter, aka Vivitar 650 SLX

Yashica AX, CDS metering
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Old 06-09-2015   #33
wjlapier
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Who would you recommend I send the lens to to have the pin repaired?

I did find a Yashica TL Electro X body. Everything seems to work. I can't tell if the pin stuck causes any issue with this body, short of running a roll through it.
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Old 06-10-2015   #34
tunalegs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlapier View Post
Who would you recommend I send the lens to to have the pin repaired?

I did find a Yashica TL Electro X body. Everything seems to work. I can't tell if the pin stuck causes any issue with this body, short of running a roll through it.
The pin won't cause any issue with the camera body. As for repairs any competent repair shop should be able to fix it pretty quickly.
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Old 06-10-2015   #35
Greyscale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlapier View Post
Who would you recommend I send the lens to to have the pin repaired?

I did find a Yashica TL Electro X body. Everything seems to work. I can't tell if the pin stuck causes any issue with this body, short of running a roll through it.
The pin won't cause an issue, as the TL Electro X would normally stop down the lens to meter. But the view through the finder will also be the view through the stopped down lens, even when the meter has not been activated. But hey, you're probably going to be shooting wide open on that first roll, anyway ...
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