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Xpan & Other Panoramics For Hasselblad Xpan, Xpan II, Fuji TX-1 and TX-2, and all other Panoramic cameras

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Zorki-6 converted into a panoramic camera 24x58
Old 08-05-2013   #1
serg-k3
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Zorki-6 converted into a panoramic camera 24x58











Lens Jupiter-8 is inserted into the central gate, the helix is associated with a range finder.
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Old 08-05-2013   #2
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Thats pretty damn cool.

Would love to know more about how you did it?
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Old 08-05-2013   #3
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Wow, nice! Especially the coupled RF!

Care to share, or have a pictorial?
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Old 08-05-2013   #4
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There are in my gallery, the last photo.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/rffg.../mygallery.php









[IMG]htthttp://www.rangefinderforum.com/rffgallery/gallery/41540/med_U41540I1373366685.SEQ.0.jpgp://[/IMG]

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Old 08-05-2013   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batey_1020 View Post
Thats pretty damn cool.

Would love to know more about how you did it?
There needs turning and boring works in the building, demolition lenses, turning of the front linzobloka, threaded adapter for installation in the valve. Further adjustment, the adjustment of working distance. Much work. Translation frame two turns trigger up to the mark. The frame counter is not working.
** If it is correct to translate, you get 20-21 shot on film at 36 frames.
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Old 08-06-2013   #6
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I think you can potentially make a lot of money doing these conversions.
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Old 08-06-2013   #7
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I hope you don't mind me correcting your posted link.


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Old 08-06-2013   #8
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Which lens are you using?
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Old 08-06-2013   #9
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this rules. i would definitely buy one of these.
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Old 08-06-2013   #10
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what does the fov of the lens end up being the equivalent of? 25mm?
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Old 08-06-2013   #11
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I did something very similar in the early 1990s with a 35mm Balda Super Baldina camera.

It is a lot easier to do with a leaf shutter camera to begin with.
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Old 08-06-2013   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serg-k3 View Post
...



Lens Jupiter-8 is inserted into the central gate, the helix is associated with a range finder.
Hi,

where did you take these parts from? The Deckel-Munchen shutter, and the helical? Also, do the Jupiter lenses fit into the Deckel shutter, or is work needed to fit them?

Can't believe how cool this is!
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Old 08-06-2013   #13
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I am surprised the lens image circle covers the whole frame!
Fantastic Work...
Great Samples
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Psst...
Old 08-06-2013   #14
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Thumbs up Psst...

I did not know about those qualities of the Jupiter 8. Don't write to much about the coverage of the Jupiter 8 (Export Version) There will be a run on the lens at eBay... The Camera = Extra! Respect! I will try to do my own conversion now.
FB_Addon_TelNo{ height:15px !important; white-space: nowrap !important; background-color: #0ff0ff;}
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Old 08-07-2013   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raid View Post
I hope you don't mind me correcting your posted link.



Thank you, raid. I used the lens of the Jupiter-8.
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Old 08-07-2013   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xayraa33 View Post
I did something very similar in the early 1990s with a 35mm Balda Super Baldina camera.

It is a lot easier to do with a leaf shutter camera to begin with.
I also looked in the direction of Balda Super Baldin wondering, do you have pictures of this camera, you can show?
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Old 08-07-2013   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grapejohnson View Post
what does the fov of the lens end up being the equivalent of? 25mm?
No, it's a lot of 25 mm. According to my calculations is equivalent to about 32mm across.
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Old 08-07-2013   #18
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That is so incredibly neat! What incredible photos you got with that camera and lens!

Thanks for showing it. If you are able to show more about how you did it lots of folks here will be appreciative, including me.
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Old 08-07-2013   #19
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Stunning photos, and stunning camera modification.
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Old 08-07-2013   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNG View Post
I am surprised the lens image circle covers the whole frame!
Fantastic Work...
Great Samples
Thank you. There are certainly nuances around the girth. At the edges there is a drop of field and aperture is present on a small vignette.





I purposely left the edges of the frame. Aperture 8.
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Old 08-07-2013   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oftheherd View Post
That is so incredibly neat! What incredible photos you got with that camera and lens!

Thanks for showing it. If you are able to show more about how you did it lots of folks here will be appreciative, including me.
oftheerd, Thank you. I did not do the conversion sequence of photos the camera. Of course as I can tell.
It would be easier to answer specific. questions
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Old 08-07-2013   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heiko Krause View Post
I did not know about those qualities of the Jupiter 8. Don't write to much about the coverage of the Jupiter 8 (Export Version) There will be a run on the lens at eBay... The Camera = Extra! Respect! I will try to do my own conversion now.
FB_Addon_TelNo{ height:15px !important; white-space: nowrap !important; background-color: #0ff0ff;}
I do not Xpan, so I experimented with the Jupiter-8. I assume that if the remake Jupiter-8, Industar-61 and Industar-50 under the working distance
Xpan, it is possible to obtain very interesting results.

If you get to make your own conversion Jupiter-8, tell us about the results.
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Old 08-07-2013   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johannielscom View Post
Hi,

where did you take these parts from? The Deckel-Munchen shutter, and the helical? Also, do the Jupiter lenses fit into the Deckel shutter, or is work needed to fit them?

Can't believe how cool this is!
johannielscom,Thank you. Нelicoid used by the native of Jupiter-8, he shortened and modified pusher rangefinder, made ​​recess. This is to reduce vignetting.
** The gate used by the murdered camera Plaubel Roll-Op I. This thread rear gate linzobloka is the same as that of the rear linzobloka Jupiter -8.
* Other than that all had to eat through the front of the lens mount to screw.

n the body of the camera to move the center mount lenses is 4.5 mm. Working distance is increased and is 31mm. This is done so that the rear lens unit, as many spoke of the pusher rangefinder.
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Old 08-07-2013   #24
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these are beautiful pictures on here by the way.
was it hard to modify the frame advance, or do you just stroke twice? i'm guessing since there's no more shutter you probably stroke twice.
the jupiter 8 is a beautiful lens, i wonder what a picture at close focus wide open would look like, the bokeh would be ridiculous
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Old 08-07-2013   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serg-k3 View Post
I also looked in the direction of Balda Super Baldin wondering, do you have pictures of this camera, you can show?

I had to go around & dig to find it but I did find it and it still has a roll of film in it from all those years ago.


[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 08-07-2013   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grapejohnson View Post
these are beautiful pictures on here by the way.
was it hard to modify the frame advance, or do you just stroke twice? i'm guessing since there's no more shutter you probably stroke twice.
the jupiter 8 is a beautiful lens, i wonder what a picture at close focus wide open would look like, the bokeh would be ridiculous
Yes, focal-plane shutter is removed, transfer the film twice on the mark. I was planning to make the stop. It is still a bit raw construction, there is much more work.
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Old 08-07-2013   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xayraa33 View Post
I had to go around & dig to find it but I did find it and it still has a roll of film in it from all those years ago.


[IMG][/IMG]

That's interesting. Maybe I interest you show the film and show the view from the film gate. ) Thank you.
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Old 08-07-2013   #28
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This portrait shot on aperture of 2.0 and a little cropped.
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Old 08-07-2013   #29
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"That's interesting. Maybe I interest you show the film and show the view from the film gate. ) Thank you."

Serge, wait until I shoot the film thats still in the camera and I will show you its film gate.
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Old 08-07-2013   #30
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And here is the Balda's film gate.

I remember filing the sides of the film gate , all by trial and error until there was no separation of the film frames on the negative and no overlapping either.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 08-07-2013   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xayraa33 View Post
And here is the Balda's film gate.

I remember filing the sides of the film gate , all by trial and error until there was no separation of the film frames on the negative and no overlapping either.

[IMG][/IMG]
Thank you. And what is the length strips of film channel?, And that will be there for them if you cut it along the length movie channel? it does not interfere with anything?
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Old 08-07-2013   #32
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Originally Posted by serg-k3 View Post
Thank you. And what is the length strips of film channel?, And that will be there for them if you cut it along the length movie channel? it does not interfere with anything?
The length was about 40mm which was the exact length needed to eliminate the frame spacing on the negative but not overlap the frames.

If I remember correctly, as it has been 20 years now, I used this camera on a tripod to try to do a 180 deg shot by panning the camera a prescribed distance to get an albeit crude panorama shot from several consecutive frames. I also remember it worked fairly well with a little practice and if I managed to keep the camera the same level for each shot that made up the panorama.


This was the time before today's digital panoramic stitching and I did not want to spend the money on an expensive Widelux camera or on the rather uncommon for here and unreliable Soviet Horizont camera back then.

Filing the film frame never interfered with the camera's mechanics.
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Old 08-07-2013   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serg-k3 View Post
johannielscom,Thank you. Нelicoid used by the native of Jupiter-8, he shortened and modified pusher rangefinder, made ​​recess. This is to reduce vignetting.
** The gate used by the murdered camera Plaubel Roll-Op I. This thread rear gate linzobloka is the same as that of the rear linzobloka Jupiter -8.
* Other than that all had to eat through the front of the lens mount to screw.

n the body of the camera to move the center mount lenses is 4.5 mm. Working distance is increased and is 31mm. This is done so that the rear lens unit, as many spoke of the pusher rangefinder.
Thank you Serg-k3!

The Plaubel Roll-Op I has a size #0 Compur shutter, many older camera models have this size. Never knew that the rear lens block of the Jupiter-8 fits into that! This site says 29.5mm with a 0.5mm pitch.

So do I understand correctly that you simply unscrew the lens from the body a bit to focus the camera and make the rangefinder move?
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Old 08-07-2013   #34
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What an amazing job! That Zorki looks great and the pics are fabulous!
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Old 08-07-2013   #35
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This is quite a feat! Kudos! Something more to do over long winter evenings...

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Old 08-07-2013   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johannielscom View Post
Thank you Serg-k3!

The Plaubel Roll-Op I has a size #0 Compur shutter, many older camera models have this size. Never knew that the rear lens block of the Jupiter-8 fits into that! This site says 29.5mm with a 0.5mm pitch.

So do I understand correctly that you simply unscrew the lens from the body a bit to focus the camera and make the rangefinder move?

Rapid Prewar kompury number 0 have prisoedenitelnymi same as for the front and a rear lens 29.5 x 0.5 mm, and different, where the front and the back was 29.5 - 27.5 mm.
* If you unscrew linzoblok Jupiter -8, the thread of terminal is 27.5 M x0, 5 mm, which allows to cut off part of the body with thread and screw the kompur. Front mounting bolt diameter 29.5 M, to put it intended part of the Jupiter 8, you must have a collar with an external thread and insert it (pierced) body front linzobloka.
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Old 08-07-2013   #37
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Kent, Penny Lane thank you for rating my work long winter evenings .. ))
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Old 08-07-2013   #38
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This is stunning, wow! Very amazing job and yes, i'd probably love to own one of these too.. not crafty enough yet!
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Old 08-07-2013   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xayraa33 View Post
The length was about 40mm which was the exact length needed to eliminate the frame spacing on the negative but not overlap the frames.

If I remember correctly, as it has been 20 years now, I used this camera on a tripod to try to do a 180 deg shot by panning the camera a prescribed distance to get an albeit crude panorama shot from several consecutive frames. I also remember it worked fairly well with a little practice and if I managed to keep the camera the same level for each shot that made up the panorama.


This was the time before today's digital panoramic stitching and I did not want to spend the money on an expensive Widelux camera or on the rather uncommon for here and unreliable Soviet Horizont camera back then.

Filing the film frame never interfered with the camera's mechanics.
I would like to know the total length of the film channel, and to cut a window in it longer than 40mm, well, for example 58 mm. Is that possible?
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Old 08-07-2013   #40
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A while ago I tried this:

take a stretch of B&W film from a bulk loader and roll it onto a 120 spool in the darkroom. Next, load a pre-war Zeiss-Ikon Box Tengor with it (don't forget to mask the red frame counter window).

Transport is guessing but it does produce pretty panoramic shots, even exposed past the sprocket holes of the film.


Can't see me pull off a trick like this with a Zorki-6 and Compur shutter, but tomorrow I will load up the Box Tengor methinks...
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