Go Back   Rangefinderforum.com > Cameras / Gear / Photography > Classic Film RangeFinders & Other Classics > SLRs - the unRF

SLRs - the unRF For those of you who must talk about SLRs, if only to confirm they are not RF.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

Old 11-23-2017   #41
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
 
Rob-F's Avatar
 
Rob-F is offline
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: The Show Me state
Age: 78
Posts: 5,946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roel View Post
Hi guys,

I am looking for mechanical SLR to use next to my Leica M film bodies. Sometimes in the same bag and same projects. So i thought about Leica R glass.

Had a Eos3 quit on me cause of empty battery. No pics whatsoever. So Mechanical shutter is what i want.

Thinking about the R6(.2) with a 60mm and 28mm.

However i just handled a R3 and R4 yesterday and the R4 had much more shutter lag. Reading about it i come across some mentioning about shutter lag on the R6(.2) also..

If the R6 would have the shutter lag of the r4 I experienced i would not want to buy it. Not sure if the specific camera needed a cla.

Can any of the users confirm the R6 shutter is nice and responsive and can compare with the M system or is it there a real lag to be expected (even if CLAed recently) with the R6(.2)??

Or should i look for F3/fm3a and have the R-glass converted. And njoy also some other Nikon lens gems out there)


So what in your perspective would be the best choice if i want to have a solid and responsive SLR solution next to and comparable to the M6ttl and M5 or already have and Njoy.
I've had an R4, R5, and R6. They all had shutter lag. Even DAG wasn't able to improve the R5 and R6 by much. Where my FE2s and my FM3a respond with a quick "clickel" sound, the Leica SLRs were more like, "kerplop." I didn't like the R4 and R5 exposure display, either. I liked the R6 display, which is just like the M6, much better.
__________________
May the light be with you.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-23-2017   #42
x-ray
Registered User
 
x-ray's Avatar
 
x-ray is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tennessee USA
Age: 70
Posts: 4,623
Here's my logic based on many decades of using both Leica and Nikon professionally.

You're going to spend double or more for an R6.2 body vs a very clean FM2. I've never used or even held an an R6.2 so I have no comment about function. The FM2 is excellent, very reliable and quite small and light. I have an FM and FE which are similar. Repairs on thecFM2 will be easy to get and very reasonable. Parts are no issue for the FM2. I believe Nikon still will repair them.

I owned the V1 28 Elmarit and assume you're looking at the V2. Ive read it's a great lens but no first hand experience. The V1 I owned was just average. It didn't impress me. To buy an average V2 you'll pay about $1900 which is pretty nuts imo. For the same money you can buy possibly the finest 28mm ever made, the Nikkor 38mm f1.4 AF D. It's a truly amazing lens even at 1.4 and 2 full stops faster than the Elmarit. No contest here IMO.

I owned both the 60mm R and the Nikkor 60mm AF D. The Nikkor is easily the equal of the Leica 60 and will run you about 1/3 the price of the R glass.

As far as SL bodies, I bougt 2 SL's and an SL MOT and shot them professionally in the days when they were still in production. I didn't abuse them but did use them heavily. I wound up with a lot of problems with shutters and meters. I'd say I wasn't impressed so I sold them and went back to my M's and Nikons. In addition to mechanical and meter problems I found I had focusing problems and disliked the very fine texture focusing screen and microprism. I also hated the thick and bulky feel and the single stroke only film advance. I prefer a multi stroke wratcheted advance.

If you don't want to go the 28 1.4? The Nikkor 28mm f2.8 AIs is exceptional by any standard.

Without a doubt I'd pick either Nikon body or as mentioned F2 and the Nikkor Glass. I use the 28 AIs f2.8 and 50 f3.5 micro. Both are tremendous performers and I use them on my F, F2, FM and FE bodies.

Advice I give as a professional ton enthusiasts, look at what pros use and there's a reasonwe use a given brand. We don't pick our equipment on what is cool or what makes us look or feel cool. We buy based on performance, reliability and support from the manufacturer. Leicaflex or R equipment was never widely used in the pro world.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-23-2017   #43
skucera
Registered User
 
skucera's Avatar
 
skucera is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Harrisburg, Oregon, USA
Posts: 270
I'll second the recommendation for the Nikon F2. I was given one with a bad light meter, and it takes beautiful pictures using my iPhone as a light meter. I've got to look into fixing that Photonic light meter.

Scott
__________________
1917 No. 1A Autographic Kodak Junior
1940 Kodak 35 Rangefinder
1955 Leica M3
1969 Canon New Canonet QL17-L
1976 Konica Autoreflex T3n
1977 Canon 110ED 20
1979 Minox 35 GL
1979 Olympus XA
1980 Pentax Auto 110
1987 Polaroid Spectra
1996 Canon EOS Elan IIe
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-23-2017   #44
Pioneer
Registered User
 
Pioneer's Avatar
 
Pioneer is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Age: 65
Posts: 3,109
@x-ray - Advice I give as a professional ton enthusiasts, look at what pros use and there's a reasonwe use a given brand. We don't pick our equipment on what is cool or what makes us look or feel cool. We buy based on performance, reliability and support from the manufacturer. Leicaflex or R equipment was never widely used in the pro world.

I agree wholeheartedly about Canon and Nikon support for pro photographers. If you are a pro then I recommend you go with the manufacturer who will support you.

But...I think x-ray may be trying to pull some wool over your eyes here. First, unless you are a pro, you will not be enjoying that famous support. I'm not even sure ALL pros see that kind of support. Second, I doubt that even pros are being supported by Nikon, or Canon, if they are still using old, manual film SLRs. I could be wrong, but I doubt it.

As for reliability and performance, those descriptors fit an awful lot of mechanical cameras. For goodness sake, even old Spotmatics with Takumar glass compete with Nikon in this arena.

So, if you are a pro, buying what the pros are currently using is probably good advice, as long as the equipment does what you need it to do as a pro. But for an amateur you may want to consider all your options. And even for pros there is a whole bunch more to this world then just Nikon.
__________________
You gotta love a fast lens;

It is almost as good as a fast horse!
Dan
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-23-2017   #45
telenous
Registered User
 
telenous is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,575
If you are using the SLR in the same projects as your Ms then responsiveness and quietness are probably priorities. I have an R6.2, SL2, FE, EOS 5/A2 and had multiple copies of the FM3a. The one I use the most is the EOS 5 with slides (because it's the quietest) and the rest I use equally as the need for a specific feature arises (compactness, quietness etc). The shutter lug of the R6.2 is real and mildly off-putting. The FE has welcome (and minimal) automation but the shutter release sounds like a trashcan lid (kchang!). THE SL2 has a magnificent viewfinder and is as responsive as an M - but is also big, heavy and difficult to service. The FM3a's I had cost quite a lot and I was using them basically like an FE, so off they went. IMO between these cameras (or any film SLR that I have used) the one closest to an M is the SL2 but if you get one make sure it is serviced or that you can service it somewhere. Some nine years ago I had mine completely overhauled in CRR Luton and it keeps on ticking just fine. The Leica-R 60 is really good and the second version of the Elmarit-R 28 is up there with the Summicron-M 28. Perhaps even better in close range. Unfortunately it distorts in the corners and that's one thing that drives me crazy so I sold that one too.

.
__________________
- Alkis

flickr
instagram
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-23-2017   #46
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
 
p.giannakis's Avatar
 
p.giannakis is offline
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Stafford - UK
Posts: 2,285
I think you have a decent amount of recommendations here. In my experience, a camera needs to be treated as a tool - the right one for the right job.

I would love to buy an M3 + cron but it will be a waste of money - i can only use AF-SLRs for the way i work. Pity but i know that this is the truth for me. If you are going to use the camera professionally buy the one with the best ergonomics - not everyone likes the OM-1 and the size of the Nikon F4/F5 is not for everyone either.

Choosing the correct focal length for your work is more important than the brand - I have tried to use the 28mm and failed miserably, it's just not for me. IF you are doing i.e. portraits a short tele would always be more useful than a Fisheye-Elmarit-R 2.8/16 (unless you are very creative).

Treat the camera as a tool and get the one that fits your circumstances best. Treat it as an investment and get the one more likely to hold its value.
__________________
Regards,
Pan


The Monochrome Archives
Instagram



  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #47
David Hughes
David Hughes
 
David Hughes's Avatar
 
David Hughes is offline
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,413
Hi,


As the registration is not the same on the M's and any SLR (for blindingly obvious reasons) the lenses must be different for a lot of focal lengths...


Having said that I expect the output (prints and slides) to be the same or very, very close.



Regards, David
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #48
Steve M.
Registered User
 
Steve M. is offline
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,382
Leica R lenses are of very high quality. For years and years I shot with an R 90 2.8 Elmarit, and recently found an R 90 2.0 Summicron at a good price and upgraded to that.

I gave up on shooting with Leica R camera bodies though. As you mentioned, many of their models suffer from sbutter lag (along with loud mirror flap). The Leicaflex cameras are the best in my opinion, and have fantastic view finders. But they're big, and expensive to have repaired if something breaks.

For these reasons, my preference is to shoot Leica R glass on Nikon bodies with an inexpensive adapter. The adapters are actually not adapters, they're different mounts that are easily swapped onto the lenses. Some are easier to change out than others. Using a lens like this on a Nikon camera means that you have to shoot in stop down mode, so cameras with AE capability are quicker to use. If I want to go with the best setup, I normally use a Nikon n8008s which features AE, AE exposure lock, spot metering (along with center weighted metering), and motorized film advance. For compact size a Nikon FG is hard to beat. Both these cameras are fully dependant on batteries, but the solution for that is to simply throw an extra set in your bag or pocket.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #49
philosli
Registered User
 
philosli is offline
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roel View Post
Thank you. I want to go to one system. Leica Glass. I have my M6tl (+m9) and will stick to it. I want to add film SLR. Leica R glass cause i think it will be the same family image wise.

Question is: Do i get a Leica R6 body with that glass or are the also mechanical Nikon fM2/FM3a better bodies to shoot with leitaxed R glas (R 60mm macro and R 28mm f2.8)

Is the R6 body nice and snappy (shutter wise) or are the Nikons much more responsive and a better choice because of that. (Have not had the chance to handle the R6 unfortunately, but i have handled the Nikon FM2/Fm3a)
I don't think there's anything wrong w/ your EOS 3. Just have a backup battery in the bag and you're good to go. Besides, a single battery goes a long way.

You should view Leica R as a completely different system from the M, just as any other SLRs. The optical formula of the lenses are different, in particular in the wider end. SLR wide-angle lenses are retro-focus because the rear elements need to clear the mirror.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #50
stedge
Registered User
 
stedge is offline
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9
I have a fm3a (actually, gave it to my daughter) and fm2n. Never shoot auto, so the 2n is my preference, and it is a couple hundred less. In AI/AIS-land that could be a couple excellent lenses...

An F3HP has a great viewfinder and like the F2 they can be swapped, but also requires batteries to work at all. Built like a tank, while the FM2/3 are much smaller/lighter and will still take a beating.

You can’t go wrong with any of them.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #51
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,588
If you are a committed M user I think you need at least to hold and look through an SL or SL2. They are way more than just a camera that is said to be costly to repair, heavy and old. I could go on but I am obviously biased.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #52
x-ray
Registered User
 
x-ray's Avatar
 
x-ray is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tennessee USA
Age: 70
Posts: 4,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pioneer View Post
@x-ray - Advice I give as a professional ton enthusiasts, look at what pros use and there's a reasonwe use a given brand. We don't pick our equipment on what is cool or what makes us look or feel cool. We buy based on performance, reliability and support from the manufacturer. Leicaflex or R equipment was never widely used in the pro world.

I agree wholeheartedly about Canon and Nikon support for pro photographers. If you are a pro then I recommend you go with the manufacturer who will support you.

But...I think x-ray may be trying to pull some wool over your eyes here. First, unless you are a pro, you will not be enjoying that famous support. I'm not even sure ALL pros see that kind of support. Second, I doubt that even pros are being supported by Nikon, or Canon, if they are still using old, manual film SLRs. I could be wrong, but I doubt it.
While renewing my NPS membership last year I was surprised to read that Nikon supports some older film cameras depending on parts availability. Not every camera will be supported but some will.

No you won't get the 1 week turnaround of NPS but typically Nikon service runs about 2 weeks on most repairs. Much better than Leica, Yes, No?
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #53
Pioneer
Registered User
 
Pioneer's Avatar
 
Pioneer is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Age: 65
Posts: 3,109
Quote:
Originally Posted by x-ray View Post
While renewing my NPS membership last year I was surprised to read that Nikon supports some older film cameras depending on parts availability. Not every camera will be supported but some will.

No you won't get the 1 week turnaround of NPS but typically Nikon service runs about 2 weeks on most repairs. Much better than Leica, Yes, No?
I stand corrected x-ray...and I am impressed. That level of service from Nikon's professional services on out dated equipment is quite unexpected, but very nice.
__________________
You gotta love a fast lens;

It is almost as good as a fast horse!
Dan
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #54
splitimageview
Registered User
 
splitimageview is offline
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,972
Which ones do they still support? F5, F6?
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #55
ptpdprinter
Registered User
 
ptpdprinter is offline
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by splitimageview View Post
Which ones do they still support? F5, F6?
F5, F6, FM10, FM3A. I'm actually surprised they repair the FM10 since it was a Cosina product.
__________________
ambientlightcollection.com
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #56
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
 
ChrisPlatt's Avatar
 
ChrisPlatt is offline
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Queens NYC
Age: 58
Posts: 2,814
Pentax MX serviced by Eric Hendrickson

Chris
__________________
Bring back the latent image!
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #57
splitimageview
Registered User
 
splitimageview is offline
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,972
Eric is excellent.

Another possibility for a mechanical, non-battery dependent SLR is the Contax S2 (or S2b.) 1/4000, Titanium body, and of course all those luscious C/Y lenses which have the side benefit of being much lighter as a rule than R glass.

And shutter lag? What's that, says the Contax.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #58
x-ray
Registered User
 
x-ray's Avatar
 
x-ray is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tennessee USA
Age: 70
Posts: 4,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpdprinter View Post
F5, F6, FM10, FM3A. I'm actually surprised they repair the FM10 since it was a Cosina product.
Nikon still offers refurbished FM10's on their website. They actually still make quite a few AIs manual focus lenses.

I've not seen a list of supported film cameras.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #59
BillBingham2
Registered User
 
BillBingham2's Avatar
 
BillBingham2 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ames, Iowa, USA
Posts: 5,892
With a few exceptions, most SLRs need to wait for the mirror to swing up to start opening the shutter.

Is the price of older manual SLRs sufficiently low that the OP could purchase an additional one should the first need to go out for servicing?

When the OM-1 first came out there was a lot of marketing talk about the smoothness of the mirror flap and if I remember right something about it being fast. Might that be a way to go?

B2 (;->
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #60
Pioneer
Registered User
 
Pioneer's Avatar
 
Pioneer is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Age: 65
Posts: 3,109
I have an OM-1, and it is certainly a nice camera, but I don't notice it being any faster then any other camera of its type.

I think the fastest and smoothest SLR I have ever used is the F6. Though it is not a metal, mechanical, manual camera it is certainly one of the finest SLRs ever built in my opinion.

And I don't think I could be accused of being a Nikon fanboy.
__________________
You gotta love a fast lens;

It is almost as good as a fast horse!
Dan
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-24-2017   #61
bhop73
Registered User
 
bhop73's Avatar
 
bhop73 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 707
I recently got a non-metered F and find I use it almost as much as my M6. They also have metered heads if you're into that. I also have an F2, but find that I enjoy using the F more.
__________________
my flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhop73/
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #62
michaelwj
----------------
 
michaelwj's Avatar
 
michaelwj is offline
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brisbane AUS
Posts: 2,098
I wouldn't worry about the opposite direction aperture on the Nikkors, the cameras are totally different that you're not going to forget which one you're using. Plus you can see the aperture in the VF. If you want everything to turn the same, how about an OM setup?

If I wanted an SLR kit to go with my M, I'd get an FM2 plus a few Nikkor AI-S lenses. You could even get a backup and still be well under the cost of the Leica system.
__________________
Cheers,
Michael
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #63
gavinlg
Registered User
 
gavinlg's Avatar
 
gavinlg is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 5,069
Contax s2 personally. The zeiss glass gives you something to rival M mount lenses.
__________________
NO PRAISE
@gavinlagrange
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #64
Stuart John
Registered User
 
Stuart John's Avatar
 
Stuart John is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Finland
Posts: 597
Nikon F with plain prism.
__________________
http://www.flickr.com/photos/photogsjm/
http://www.sjmphotography.co.nr/

Canonet QL17, Canonet 28, Zorki C
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #65
rolfe
Registered User
 
rolfe's Avatar
 
rolfe is offline
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Egremont, MA
Posts: 389
The Leica R6(.2) is way better than the R3 or R4. It is totally mechanical and as close to an SLR M as it is possible to get. I have never noticed a shutter lag any more pronounced than any other SLR, including my Nikons. If it was good enough for Sebastião Salgado, it is good enough for me...

Rolfe
__________________
My Flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #66
x-ray
Registered User
 
x-ray's Avatar
 
x-ray is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tennessee USA
Age: 70
Posts: 4,623
I'm curious as to what you're shooting that requires a camera with virtually no shutter lag?

If you're focusing your attention on the delay in your camera you're not concentrating on your subject enough. I've shot with a lot of different cameras in my career and never shot one that was so noticeably slow that it distracted from my shooting or drew my attention from the photo making process. But then again I'm a guy that shot college football from the sidelines in the 60's with an M body, visoflex 2 and long preset lenses.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #67
Shac
Registered User
 
Shac is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,098
I think the aspect to remember with Leica R bodies is their repairability. (I have had an SL2, an R3, R4, R4sp and an R7) The SL series is old and there are few spare parts, also prisms have a tendency to de-silver (it was also a bit of a boat anchor). The R series shutters I believe are not replaceable unless you canibalise another body. I've also had (since 1967) and still have, a slew of nikon manual focus bodies - NEVER had a problem - they are repairable. If you can afford it the FM3A makes the most sense IMO, especially as it's quite compact so close to the Leica M.
Just my 10 cents worth
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #68
rfaspen
Registered User
 
rfaspen's Avatar
 
rfaspen is offline
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 1,678
I have a couple Rolleiflex SLRs that use nice Rollei/Zeiss lenses but I would NOT recommend that system for various reasons.

I currently have Canon, Nikon, OM, and other SLR systems (yes I have a problem). I find the Olympus OM system fairly easy to use along with M's in fast-paced environments except they are difficult for me to hold -- too small I think. If there was a grip available for OM, I would find them ideal. Good lenses, but lacking in the long end (>= 300mm).

So, I end up using Nikon because I have a fair bit of them. If Nikon lenses focused the same direction as Leica they would make an ideal companion SLR system. OP is trying to avoid battery-dependent AF Nikons, so that's out. Still, Nikons are a great option overall for reasons stated in previous posts.

I tried to like Canon FD, but I just don't. I only use it for my 50/1.2 FD lens. I may try to trade that lens for an LTM version, then I can move all my FD gear out and make space in the closet. But its an option with plenty of decent lenses, many cheap now with FD being an orphaned mount. The F1 is said to be excellent, its just not for me.

I almost bought an SL2 several times. What holds me back is the known difficulty of repair (and CLA). Apparently they're almost too well built so home repair is not easy. Leica R lenses are great, but comparable to the better Nikon or even OM lenses, and I don't need another camera system.

A long post to suggest my personal favorites of either OM or Nikon, but whatever has your lens needs and ergonomics covered is the right choice.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #69
ellisson
Registered User
 
ellisson's Avatar
 
ellisson is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Elkins Park, PA
Posts: 517
I greatly enjoy shooting with the Leica R6.2. Robust and reliable, a pleasure to shoot with.
__________________
Respice Finem

flickrgallery
Pbase gallery
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #70
ktmrider
Registered User
 
ktmrider is offline
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: el paso, texas
Age: 66
Posts: 1,153
Have a Leica R6.2 with 28, 50, and 135 lenses and it is the same size as my M2 and a lot smaller/lighter then my M5. In fact, you can think of it as an M6 with both spot and averaging metering.

Now, I am a Nikon user from way back and think the original F was the best camera they ever made (especially if it needed to stop a bullet or be used as a weapon (see Vietnam)) But the R6.2 has a great viewfinder, the spot/average metering is great and really I don't see a down side to it if you are looking for a all mechanical SLR with the Leica name on it. I just don't use it much as I prefer my M2 or M5.

Make you a deal on a R6.2 and three R lenses.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #71
Roel
Registered User
 
Roel's Avatar
 
Roel is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by x-ray View Post
I'm curious as to what you're shooting that requires a camera with virtually no shutter lag?

If you're focusing your attention on the delay in your camera you're not concentrating on your subject enough. I've shot with a lot of different cameras in my career and never shot one that was so noticeably slow that it distracted from my shooting or drew my attention from the photo making process. But then again I'm a guy that shot college football from the sidelines in the 60's with an M body, visoflex 2 and long preset lenses.

THANK YOU EVERYBODY FOR YOUR INSIGHTS AND OPINIONS. It is of great help to me.


I always shoot people and try to shoot mostly on my feeling and spontaneous. Kind of street shoot style and enjoy the Leica M system very much. Lately i had some mishaps with composition of horizontal shots/portraits. Maybe cause of the combined shooting (M9/M8.2) so especially on Fim (where you can't chimp) I would like to see the image more reliable.

But i know i will always want to act on impuls and want to be able to get that moment. AND it is quit possible that shutter lag will not be a big problem but it is just something that is in my head. I want to 'feel' the shot/trigger and time when it goes of. I sold my Sony A7 cause i didn't feel the shutter and was happy with the responsiveness of the Nikon D700 after that.

Some times i focus and frame and wait for that moment on portraits for instance. I want the shutter to click as soon as i push the button. Or at least not have the feeling that there is lag.

Now i spoke with a Dutch repair guy and he said that the R6 has a kind of tube/valve that dampens the mirror. When that is oily it prevents air to come out of the valve/tube and it slows the momentum. That sounds logical. So than the question is if the R6 is fast enough (for my feeling) when i have one in serviced condition. And how is even the best serviced R6 in comparison to FM3a/FM2.

From all the reactions it seems that the Nikons are quicker by design. To bad i still did not manage to handle a r6 in the flesh to see how it feels. If the lag is that bad as the R4 i tried or maybe it is ok. Or that the feel of that camera is so nice that think i want to try it anyway.


For now i have black r6 that i can order for 380 euro. A 60mm lens (My first R lens) will cost app 350 euro. Or i can get a really nice black FM3a for 450 euro. That FM3a can work with the 17mm ais, 28mm 2.8 ais, 35mm f2 add, 50mm 1.4 add, 50mm 1.8E, 100mm 2.8E, 135mm f3.5 ais i already have (for my 2 D700's + F100).

Going for the R would mean buying two R lenses: 60mm macro as alround lens and wide portrait lens and the 28mm f2.8 for wider shots. My Mlenses are 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 85mm, 135mm (shoot mostly 28/35mm on M).

Nikon would be smart since i have most glass already. But hen if the leica R feels better and i can find some nice glass. I could just start with the 60mm next to my wider M lesnes.

To make it less easy..i found a Black OM1 with 50mm1.4 for 50 euro. I have a 28mm f3.5 somewhere so i would almost be ready when this set is ok and doesn't need extensive CLA done to make work. Didn't handle it yet.

The FM3a and R6 are the youngest kids on the block. The OM or Pentax systems or much older and more probable to need servicing. The leica R6 will keep it's value and probably the Nikon too. Judging from the expereience with the FM bodies i think the the Leice R6 might feel sturdier and more like the M and quit possibly have a less loud shutter. Also nice points..

So i guess the smart thing is to go for FM3a/Fm2. since they are definitely quick and can be serviced everywhere and probably have a better chance of getting parts. And i have glass.
My other persona likes to give that R6 a try. The M6 i have just feels so good. Ik that R6 has some of that feeling.. and if it was good enough for Salgado etc.. Would more probably need a CLA. Any one know the cost of a CLA for Leica R6.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #72
ptpdprinter
Registered User
 
ptpdprinter is offline
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,665
You could buy the R6/60 macro and try them out, and if they didn't work out, sell them at minimal loss. People can tell you their experiences, but it is not the same as actually handling the camera yourself. It beats overthinking it.
__________________
ambientlightcollection.com
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #73
Steve Bellayr
Registered User
 
Steve Bellayr's Avatar
 
Steve Bellayr is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,942
My two cents: The Nikon F3hp. There are many fine lenses for this camera, including Zeiss. It is easy and terribly expensive to go to a 24mm or lenses longer than 135mm or zoom lenses. The 105mm f2.5 is outstanding. It is manual focus like the Leica. A motor drive can be attached at almost nominal cost. The F3hp is plentiful on the market and ergonomically easy to handle.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #74
J enea
Registered User
 
J enea is offline
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 154
i sent my Fm3a early this year to nikon for a simple CLA and they fixed it for free for some reason and replaced a part for free. service doesn't get much better than that. I never asked why, but maybe i should have.

what was funny was when i was checking prices for the service, Nikon service center was the cheapest in the country of the 7 places with good reputations that I checked.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #75
BillBingham2
Registered User
 
BillBingham2's Avatar
 
BillBingham2 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ames, Iowa, USA
Posts: 5,892
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelwj View Post
....... If you want everything to turn the same, how about an OM setup?

.....
While focus may go the same direction, aperture is the opposite of the Leica M.

B2 (;->
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #76
BillBingham2
Registered User
 
BillBingham2's Avatar
 
BillBingham2 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ames, Iowa, USA
Posts: 5,892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roel View Post
.......
To make it less easy..i found a Black OM1 with 50mm1.4 for 50 euro. I have a 28mm f3.5 somewhere so i would almost be ready when this set is ok and doesn't need extensive CLA done to make work. Didn't handle it yet.
...
Wouldn't be my first choice, but an EXCELLENT one.

But then lugging around a SL2/180 combo for a full day might have me re-thinking my choice.

B2 (;->
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-25-2017   #77
aizan
Registered User
 
aizan's Avatar
 
aizan is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Torrance, CA
Age: 37
Posts: 4,577
if you want the focus and aperture rings to turn the same direction as a leica m, the only options are leica r, minolta, and topcon.
__________________
Ugly Cameras
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-26-2017   #78
Roel
Registered User
 
Roel's Avatar
 
Roel is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by aizan View Post
if you want the focus and aperture rings to turn the same direction as a leica m, the only options are leica r, minolta, and topcon.
Thnx. So did Minolta ever make a Mechanical body based on their R4/5/6 design? I hear from technician sources that the R4/5 (even though they have much in common) have more problems than the Minolta bodies.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-26-2017   #79
michaelwj
----------------
 
michaelwj's Avatar
 
michaelwj is offline
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brisbane AUS
Posts: 2,098
Hang on, you already own a whole bunch on Nikkor AI-S glass? Just get an FM2 and see how it goes. You can get an R6/60mm combo to test the waters and see if the grass is greener if you want I suppose, but unless there's something you really don't like then it's an obvious choice.
__________________
Cheers,
Michael
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-26-2017   #80
Roel
Registered User
 
Roel's Avatar
 
Roel is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelwj View Post
Hang on, you already own a whole bunch on Nikkor AI-S glass? Just get an FM2 and see how it goes. You can get an R6/60mm combo to test the waters and see if the grass is greener if you want I suppose, but unless there's something you really don't like then it's an obvious choice.
Guilty! Would be a logic choice but there is something mystical in M series feel that i hope also translates to SLR R6. And then there is the loud click that the FM2/Fm3a series have that i find a problem. One i would have to live with if i pursue the mechanical Nikon road. The logical brain half says Nikon..
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 16:46.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.