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Old 06-13-2017   #681
nagya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netsoft2k View Post
Sheel and I have started a website dedicated to analog photography processes including drum scanners. You can access the early version of the website that includes links to Scanmate Service Manuals: www.analogfilm.camera

What version of the dongle do you need? Mac or PC? Check with ABC-Scan as they may have some or also check ebay.

Pali
Thank you Pali the service manual.
I cleaned the lenses but after cleaning the scanner starts making horizontal green lines. What could be a problem?
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Old 06-13-2017   #682
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Originally Posted by nagya View Post
Thank you Pali the service manual.
I cleaned the lenses but after cleaning the scanner starts making horizontal green lines. What could be a problem?
This is most likely not related to cleaning the lens but there is a very small chance that you may need to recalibrate apertures.

Before you do that, try doing white balance calibration and also cleaning the bulb contacts. Use a new bulb if you have one and let me know if this resolves the issue.

Also scan using different apertures and see if this only happening for some apertures.

Pali
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Old 06-16-2017   #683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netsoft2k View Post
The filter is cheap but not really of poor quality. It is doing as it promises which is cutting infrared light which the Scanmate's PMTs pick up and cause the red cast in shadows. Unless you are experienced with technology boards, I do not recommend replacing the filter. I know a few people who have changed the filter and every single person needed to adjust the PMTs which is a complicated process.
Thanks for your reply. The range of the R1617 tubes ( #540) is from 300 nm to 850 nm (see https://www.hamamatsu.com/us/en/R1617.html). As far as I know, IR is >700 nm and UV < 400 nm (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light#...M_spectrum.svg). Can you confirm that the filter available on ebay (item number 281437567116) fits well for the ScanMate?

Spectrum Parameter:
Tavg >95% @440-620nm
T =50% @648+-15nm
Tavg <= 1 @ 700-1000nm
T: < 1% @ 1050nm

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Camera-...116?rmvSB=true)

Where the red colour cast an issue in the 90s when the ScanMate was new?
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Old 06-16-2017   #684
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Originally Posted by help! View Post
Thanks for your reply. The range of the R1617 tubes ( #540) is from 300 nm to 850 nm (see https://www.hamamatsu.com/us/en/R1617.html). As far as I know, IR is >700 nm and UV < 400 nm (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light#...M_spectrum.svg). Can you confirm that the filter available on ebay (item number 281437567116) fits well for the ScanMate?

Spectrum Parameter:
Tavg >95% @440-620nm
T =50% @648+-15nm
Tavg <= 1 @ 700-1000nm
T: < 1% @ 1050nm

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Camera-...116?rmvSB=true)

Where the red colour cast an issue in the 90s when the ScanMate was new?
That is the same filter that I used so yes, it will work but you will need to find a way to secure it right on top of the fiber cable. Many ways to do it and most prefer to just make a tinfoil padding around it so it stays in the center.

I am not sure if the red cast issue was also noticeable when the scanners were new since I didn't get my first drum scanner until 2015. I do however thing that it is possible that the filter coating may have deteriorated over time under bright light/heat from the bulb.

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Old 06-17-2017   #685
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Here comes a pic of the original filter:



It's size is around 10mm x 10mm x 1mm. The inner diameter of the ring is around 14,5mm.

Perhaps the filter available on ebay cuts too much visible red light?

T =50% @648+-15nm

I'll try to find a filter where the full transmission curve is available.

EDIT:

There is a second version of the filter (12 x 12 x 1 mm):

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Old 06-17-2017   #686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netsoft2k View Post
Sheel and I have started a website dedicated to analog photography processes including drum scanners. You can access the early version of the website that includes links to Scanmate Service Manuals: www.analogfilm.camera

What version of the dongle do you need? Mac or PC? Check with ABC-Scan as they may have some or also check ebay.

Pali
I cleaned again and the horizontal green lines disappeared.
Thank you the service manual.
Othervise the color quartet real better than color trio?
I am using classic os 9.2 and os x 10.3.
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Old 06-18-2017   #687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nagya View Post
I cleaned again and the horizontal green lines disappeared.
Thank you the service manual.
Othervise the color quartet real better than color trio?
I am using classic os 9.2 and os x 10.3.
I have problems with the focus.
After the focus calibration the images looks not enough sharp.
It seems like a fog or diffusion filter...
What could be a problem?
Thank you for the help.
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Old 06-18-2017   #688
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Try focusing a different spot or use manual focus adjustments.

Pali
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Old 06-18-2017   #689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netsoft2k View Post
Try focusing a different spot or use manual focus adjustments.

Pali
I tried the different spots but the result is same.
I have only focus calibration and descreening function on my colortrio.
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Old 06-18-2017   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nagya View Post
I tried the different spots but the result is same.
I have only focus calibration and descreening function on my colortrio.
That does indeed look soft.

What aperture are you using? Are you focusing on a high contrast edge?
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Old 06-18-2017   #691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamph View Post
That does indeed look soft.

What aperture are you using? Are you focusing on a high contrast edge?
Aperture 1.
Yes, I tired focusing different high contrast area.
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Old 06-18-2017   #692
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Are you using the "auto-focus before each scan" function? My SM seemed to struggle a lot with this function, to the point of it being unusable really. I have to calibrate the focus on each frame to get accurate focus.

I'm not familiar with color trio, so I don't know if it even has the function to auto-focus before each scan.
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Old 06-18-2017   #693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamph View Post
Are you using the "auto-focus before each scan" function? My SM seemed to struggle a lot with this function, to the point of it being unusable really. I have to calibrate the focus on each frame to get accurate focus.

I'm not familiar with color trio, so I don't know if it even has the function to auto-focus before each scan.
It is possible that color quartet more accurate by focusing?
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Old 06-19-2017   #694
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Originally Posted by nagya View Post
It is possible that color quartet more accurate by focusing?
I wouldn't be able to tell you, as I've never used Color Trio, but I doubt it.
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Old 06-19-2017   #695
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Try scanning a black and white negative to rule out focus issue. If it work with a high contrast bw negative, then the software is not properly focusing on your negative. You can try CQ for free for 30 days. Just install it and it should work properly.

Pali
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Old 06-19-2017   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netsoft2k View Post
Try scanning a black and white negative to rule out focus issue. If it work with a high contrast bw negative, then the software is not properly focusing on your negative. You can try CQ for free for 30 days. Just install it and it should work properly.

Pali
Thank you.
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Old 06-19-2017   #697
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Oh, btw if it's your first time using QC then just remember to start QC Scan before QC. Otherwise QC won't recognize the scanner.
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Old 06-20-2017   #698
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Question: How can I run the service program for aperure calibration? Or, how can I calibrate aperture. The aperure holes not in the middle.
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Old 06-22-2017   #699
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Originally Posted by nagya View Post
Question: How can I run the service program for aperure calibration? Or, how can I calibrate aperture. The aperure holes not in the middle.
You'll need to make the serial cable as described in earlier posts. I strongly recommend that you read this entire thread which has everything you need to make and use the cable.

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Scanmate 5000 Help Needed
Old 07-26-2017   #700
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Scanmate 5000 Help Needed

I've had some serious issues with my Scanmate 5000 that started a little over a year after I had been using it just fine.

I had a power supply blow randomly after I transported the scanner. It just blue a fuse after I turned it on. I replaced the fuse, and it worked for a few minutes before I saw a little smoke and it completely blowing without turning on.

After this, I decided to order a new electronics drawer. I ordered one from someone that had a working condition Scanmate 5000 that they were selling. I paid them for the drawer and they sent it along. For a few weeks, the new drawer was working but I was having scanning issues: autofocus calibration would fail, pictures were slightly blurry, drum barcodes were not being scanned, and the images were always offset by 50% to the top of what I selected. I ran diagnostics through the monitor program and it passed all the tests.

Finally, when I turned the scanner on to run the monitor program today - it blew a fuse and did the same thing it had done with my previous board. Power supply is now somewhat dead like the previous one. The fans do not turn on - the LED's are on except for the 2nd from the bottom which is dead. Nothing else works.

Any ideas how to fix this or what's going on? Would really appreciate someone's help.

Thanks so much!
Daniel
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Old 07-29-2017   #701
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Originally Posted by baronkatz View Post
I've had some serious issues with my Scanmate 5000 that started a little over a year after I had been using it just fine.

I had a power supply blow randomly after I transported the scanner. It just blue a fuse after I turned it on. I replaced the fuse, and it worked for a few minutes before I saw a little smoke and it completely blowing without turning on.

After this, I decided to order a new electronics drawer. I ordered one from someone that had a working condition Scanmate 5000 that they were selling. I paid them for the drawer and they sent it along. For a few weeks, the new drawer was working but I was having scanning issues: autofocus calibration would fail, pictures were slightly blurry, drum barcodes were not being scanned, and the images were always offset by 50% to the top of what I selected. I ran diagnostics through the monitor program and it passed all the tests.

Finally, when I turned the scanner on to run the monitor program today - it blew a fuse and did the same thing it had done with my previous board. Power supply is now somewhat dead like the previous one. The fans do not turn on - the LED's are on except for the 2nd from the bottom which is dead. Nothing else works.

Any ideas how to fix this or what's going on? Would really appreciate someone's help.

Thanks so much!
Daniel
Posted this in the other thread but here it is again in case you missed it.

Daniel,

Check the fans and make sure none of them are drawing too much power. I had a very similar issue with mine and it turned out to be a bad fan which was literally $5 to replace. Also make sure that your power source is clean. Sometimes bad outlets can cause intermittent issues with Power supply.

Also contact ABC-Scan and see if they can help.

Good luck!

Pali
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Old 07-30-2017   #702
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Transmission curve of a used ScanMate 5000 UV-IR cut filter:

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Old 08-02-2017   #703
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Transmission curve of a used ScanMate 5000 UV-IR cut filter:[/IMG]
Very helpful information. Thank you!

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Old 08-14-2017   #704
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Originally Posted by Netsoft2k View Post
Very helpful information. Thank you!

Pali
Hi Pali, I'm glad to help. The Astronomik L-1 filter should be a suitable replacement for the original SM filter:

http://www.astronomik.com/en/photogr...1-l-2-l-3.html

It seems that these filters are top-notch. Heat shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately, a nonstandard filter size is quite expensive.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #705
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I have attempted to have holes cutout from a crazed drum before and it went horribly bad. Everything looked great but as soon as mounted the drum on a scanner, it was clear that the drum was not balanced and would shake the scanner quite dramatically. It was cut using a CNC machine and I can't imagine if someone could cut it any better.

Just a fyi before anyone attempts to get a drum cut for negatives.

Pali

Hah, i actually did this also. Used laser CNC.

Had no balance issues, as i cut a hole for 35mm negative right on the mounting side so it would not wobble. But i think the laser might have warped the edges of the hole a bit and there is no way of getting the whole negative in focus.

CNC milling machine would have probably done a better job, and it might have worked for smaller negatives. Otherwise, it would just require balancing the drum.. much like we do for car wheels.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #706
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I am on the look out to find if there are any alternatives to ColorQuest and ColorTrio software.

I found a program for Windows called Aztek Digital Photolab, does it only work on Howtek hardware?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #707
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I found a program for Windows called Aztek Digital Photolab, does it only work on Howtek hardware?
Yes, it's Howtek only.
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Old 6 Days Ago   #708
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Thanks for the info!

Does anyone know where I might be able to still locate a copy of ColorTrio running Windows 2000 or XP?
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Old 6 Days Ago   #709
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I am on the look out to find if there are any alternatives to ColorQuest and ColorTrio software.
There are no alternatives. I think there should be some sort of plugin for photoshop.. but i have not seen it, and it probably only works on old photoshop version.

CQ is a really good software. Why do you need a alternative? ColorTrio can only do 8bit scans, so i would not waste my time on that.

And CQ works perfectly on Win10x64, so you do not need an extra computer with old OS to run it.
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Old 5 Days Ago   #710
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Originally Posted by monkeyfist View Post
There are no alternatives. I think there should be some sort of plugin for photoshop.. but i have not seen it, and it probably only works on old photoshop version.

CQ is a really good software. Why do you need a alternative? ColorTrio can only do 8bit scans, so i would not waste my time on that.

And CQ works perfectly on Win10x64, so you do not need an extra computer with old OS to run it.
I bought my Scanmate secondhand, it did not come with a dongle.

Not sure where to go about purchasing one.

I had thought the 8bit limit on ColorTrio was only on the OS version.
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Old 4 Days Ago   #711
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You will not see any difference between 8bit and 16bit scanning. If you have Scanmate 3000/4000/5000 then you will not be able to save a 16bit RAW file anyway.
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Old 3 Days Ago   #712
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You will not see any difference between 8bit and 16bit scanning. If you have Scanmate 3000/4000/5000 then you will not be able to save a 16bit RAW file anyway.
You don't see it as you monitor is 8bit, but once you start to adjust the image the 16bit file is something you can't live without.

In the old days when people scanned 8 bit files, you had to adjust everything perfectly before hitting the scan button.

Nowadays, we can scan 16bit raw scans and adjust them. On the 3000/4000/5000 scanners, just scan normal 16bit tiff. 8bit raw is basically the worst thing you can do.

The tiny bit of sharpness you loose scanning as 16bit tiff is well worth the extra color information.

SM5000 is a 12bit scanner, SM11000 is 14bit. So you are wasting lots of information by scanning 8bit files.
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Old 3 Days Ago   #713
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The sharpness of a 16 bit tiff scan is not the only problem. Image quality is just worse, has more noise and worse color rendering.
On the other hand, the fact that I'm scanned in 8 bits does not mean I'm working on 8 bits. I'm doing a raw 8bit scan and before any edition, I convert to 16 bits and I'm just starting to edit. Simple and effective. Even if I do not want to edit scans in 16bit, I can not because Silverfast I use is not working in RAW HDR mode with 8 bit files, mainly color negatives. However, with slides it is much easier. Scan 8 bit RAW, apply color corrections It8 and all that. Prints look great.
I have done so many comparative scans that I can easily prove what I am writing. Scanning in CQ 16bit tiff with Scanmate 3000/4000/5000 is simply pointless.

The simple test that I once presented here ...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/251912...posted-public/

Is this the mythical advantage of CQ tiff 16 bit over raw 8 bit? For me the difference is obvious and does not require comment.
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Old 3 Days Ago   #714
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I think there should be some sort of plugin for photoshop.
I've a copy of this on floppy disk. How to use the plugin is described in the manual of my ScanMate 5000.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #715
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On the other hand, the fact that I'm scanned in 8 bits does not mean I'm working on 8 bits. I'm doing a raw 8bit scan and before any edition, I convert to 16 bits and I'm just starting to edit. Simple and effective. Even if I do not want to edit scans in 16bit, I can not because Silverfast I use is not working in RAW HDR mode with 8 bit files, mainly color negatives. However, with slides it is much easier. Scan 8 bit RAW, apply color corrections It8 and all that. Prints look great.
I have done so many comparative scans that I can easily prove what I am writing. Scanning in CQ 16bit tiff with Scanmate 3000/4000/5000 is simply pointless.

The simple test that I once presented here ...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/251912...posted-public/

Is this the mythical advantage of CQ tiff 16 bit over raw 8 bit? For me the difference is obvious and does not require comment.
Converting to 16bit does not really do that much. It does give you the 16bit color space, but it just interpolates the missing values.

Silverfast? You use silverfast for photo editing?

8 bit is 256 shades per channel, for B&W this literally means 256 shades of grey.

12bit that SM5000 does, is 4096 shades per channel. It's a huge improvement over 8bit. You are dumping a huge amount of color data.

Your comparison does not even show a picture? It's a corner of a negative with nothing on it? Do what you please, but it does not make much sense.

When you scan as tiff, CQ uses the color profile that comes with it. It's set in the CQscan program, it8trsml.icc. That might be cause if you get different colors in tiff than in raw.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #716
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I've a copy of this on floppy disk. How to use the plugin is described in the manual of my ScanMate 5000.
Does it work on modern photoshop? And can you share it if it does?
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Old 2 Days Ago   #717
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Posted this in the other thread but here it is again in case you missed it.

Daniel,

Check the fans and make sure none of them are drawing too much power. I had a very similar issue with mine and it turned out to be a bad fan which was literally $5 to replace. Also make sure that your power source is clean. Sometimes bad outlets can cause intermittent issues with Power supply.

Also contact ABC-Scan and see if they can help.

Good luck!

Pali
Well the issue is that both my drawers are dead now so I can't really do any of that until I get a new scanner anyway. It wasn't just my current I tried it in another person's house and it fried as well. It's definitely a short of some kind. I can try replacing the fans. Do you mean the fans that cool the bulb or the ones in the drawer? Because I tried three drawers and it fried the power supply on all of them, so it must be a short somewhere else in the scanner.

I tried contacting ABC Scan but they have yet to reply.

I think at this point I need to sell it for parts along with two of my drums and it should get me enough money to buy another one (since I have the mounting station and four drums already). OR maybe someone will be willing to trade... I am also open to the 11,000.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #718
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Question folks, would a Howtek mounting station work on Scanmate drums?

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