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Old 05-16-2019   #695
Ian M.
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Takkun is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sunny South Seattle
Posts: 792
Always fun to share photos from this lovely camera. I just need to do a better job cleaning negs before scanning...

Biogon 35/2, [email protected], Perceptol

Biogon 35/2, [email protected], HC110 dil. B

Skopar-M 25/4, [email protected], HC110 dil. B

Skopar-M 25/4, [email protected], Xtol stock

(hey, that's me!) Canon 50/1.4, expired (ca. 2005) [email protected], Rodinal 1+100 stand

Side note about the development: I've been a longtime TMY-only in 35mm and Xtol user; switched to HC-110 during grad school when I wasn't developing as frequently and wasn't thrilled with T-grain films in it. Got back into photography and experimentation when I had more time in the past year and trying lots of different films in different developers—SIlvermax, Delta 100, some old TMX from high school, and returning to FP4 and HP5, both of which I love in larger formats. The latter two really sing when given a little extra exposure, carefully metered, and souped in HC110, and I've grown to love them again. Haven't tried them in Rodinal or Perceptol yet. Really loved how the old TMX turned out in Rodinal.

Which leads me to the next point: that accursed semi-spot meter. I really love it in theory, but it took quite a long time to get used to it, and then re-learn it after a long stint shooting Nikon's matrix metering again. It's fairly simple, according to the instruction manual, the coverage is the next smallest frame line than the one you're using. I certainly had a habit of including too much sky, or metering off a light-skinned face and not placing skin tone on the proper zone, getting wildly underexposed images. Thought it was my developing for a while. On the plus side, the long match-needle scale gives a great indication of contrast ranges in a scene, much like contemporary Nikon/Canon SLRs, and I far prefer it to the under-ok-over LEDs of newer cameras.

As for the electronics: Mine was fortunate enough to be adjusted by Sherry by a previous owner, and she recommends the Varta replacement cells. She told me the trick to determining if it was adjusted or not is to load with a modern cell and activate the battery check by pulling the frame line preview to the left; an unadjusted camera won't have the meter needle swing all the way into the 'good battery' notch.

There is an old article from Camera Craftsman on the M5 that covers meter adjustment if anyone wants to try it themselves, or take it to someone. Link below:

I personally haven't used an adapter, but have read of several who have; I suppose if the cap doesn't screw down entirely, there's no functional disadvantage.
Ian M., Seattle
Current bag contents: Just a Fuji GX680iii. Nothing else will fit.

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