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Old 02-20-2019   #53
Huss
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Huss is online now
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Venice, CA
Posts: 7,209
Congrats on the F6 purchase!
You have bought the best AF 35mm film camera ever made, so buy the best AF lenses for it - I use the Sigma Art 50 and 35 1.4 lenses. They work perfectly.
For light weight I sometimes use the 50 1.8G Nikon lens.
For zoom, I use the Nikon 24-120 G VR lens (latest version). And a whole bunch of manual focus glass.
The light meter on the F6 is biased for slide film, i.e. it leans to underexposure so as not to lose highlights. When I shoot colour negative film, I set it for 1/2 stop over exposure.
I also set the AE hold mode so that when you use the AE lock it holds it for as many exposures as you want until you actively release it, or turn the camera off. Default mode is to release the AE hold after one exposure. I also use the AF on button to activate AF, not the shutter button.

re. reliabilty, my perfect condition never dinged, never dropped F6 had the AF fail. Just stopped focusing accurately, kept on front focusing by several feet. Nikon USA (in Los Angeles) repaired it in a few days (are you listening Leica?!) for $250. They said this has happened on a few of them and was a defective rf module (their words).
So nothing is faultless.
re. the F3 with the cracking meter circuit, that's why I use the F3P and Limited models. They are made much stronger out of titanium and have the hot shoe on the prism. Ever notice so many regular F3s have dented prisms? That's because they are made out of very thin metal while the P versions are not.
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