Originally Posted by Freakscene
The technology has moved on from the approach in Dan Burkholder's book. The easiest way to get really good results doing this currently is to use PiezeDN. https://piezography.com/piezodn
It sorts a lot of the issues with UV density that traditional inks have, and makes negs you can print on platinum, palladium or on silver. Recommended.
To an extent. The PiezoDN negs can make prints as good as an 8x10 camera, but you need to understand post processing and have an appropriate file to input.
Larger than 8x10, analogue negatives probably still produce better contact prints unless you have a very high resolution camera, but then you run into HUGE issues with camera manageability. There is always a trade-off between practicality and output. One thing to remember is that the inkjet printer can provide the same ppi to its maximum size, irrespective of the input. This helps with tonality. It's a similar effect to that which Cal describes for Piezo prints - as you print larger you see more detail. The printer isn't inventing it, it's just that a 17x22 inch or larger print has more effective resolution than a 5K (at best) computer screen looking at the whole image. The screen obscures detail, rather than that the print creates more. And it's hard to interpret tone zoomed in, whereas it magnifies detail.
Many thanks for your detailed information. You are further along than me.
I will add that in my printing I can print what I can't see on a calibrated 27 EIZO dimmed down to 80 Lux in a darkened room. In other words more detail comes out in a print than I can see on my monitor.
I dim down my monitor to reduce the contrast so I can see more shadow detail. I learned excessive contrast kills shadow detail.
I do this with a Leica Monochrom which is only an 18MP camera that is rather primitive. Clean files and optimized exposures yield the best results because of lowest noise by promoting the least amount of post processing.
Pretty much I shoot like a large format shooter even though I'm shooting small format and trying to maximize IQ at time of image capture. I use Heliopan 2X yellow filters for contrast so I don't have to add contrast in post. Also know that these Heliopan filters marked "Digital" have UV and IR filters included and these "Digital" filters remove signals that are not visual info that removes what I consider "noise" for cleaner/better histograms.
BTW you will also see reduced clipping so you can expose more to the right when using Heliopan filters marked "Digital" on any digital camera. On my SL, a color camera I use a UV marked "Digital" for lower "noise," better histograms, and less clipping.
"Garbage in: garbage out" becomes "clean in: clean out."