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Old 02-04-2018   #11
intheviewfinder
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 243
I have shot with all of the OPs camera selection and eventually settled on the X-T1 and X-E2 duet. I have also shot with the OM for 6 weeks or so after I trashed my cameras at White Sands (a whole other story).

Except for the fact that there's no OVF, I'd have to say that the X-T1 (and the X-T2) is the closest to the OM in look and feel. And I love the 23mm f/2. It's silent and very fast to focus. Once you set the camera up to your liking just about everything can happen without delving into the menus. You've got your three main control points (aperture, shutter & ISO) accessible via dials or rings which allows you to pretty much override the Auto settings quickly. Yes it does have some quirks but they're not onerous. (one suggestion Sugru; Google it)

I loved the electronic display overlay on the OVF but I did not have a good experience with the X-Pro1. When subjects were moving I had many misses. It was very frustrating. It appears that they have fixed many of my complaints with the new focusing system in the X-Pro2. Nice camera as long as you're not going to shoot with anything very long (about 90mm).

I had one of the very first X100 cameras in North America. Had a X100s for while and found it to be quite an improvement over the X100. My only experience with the X100F is at the demo/release event. Nice camera with a vastly superior focusing system. But I'm a interchangeable lens kind of guy. Eventually having made peace with the fact that I wasn't going to get a OVF to meet my needs and that the EVFs have gotten very good, I replaced the X100s with an X-E2. Though the X-E2s dials and menus are a bit different then the X-T1 they are close enough so moving from one to the other is smooth. This means I can have a two body setup at times.

One last item - since you still have your OM gear you can always purchase some OM-to-FujiX adapters and mount those OM lenses to either the X-T1 or the X-Pro1. You'll need to manually focus but both Fuji bodies provide a way to do so (focus peaking, split image, etc).

Hope this is helpful.
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