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View Full Version : FED2 - DIY VF/RF Service (long w/images)


Laika
07-25-2004, 03:23
The FED2 is one of the more popular Soviet RFs and for good reason, but often you hear people mention its “small and dim” viewfinder as one of its major shortcomings. While we can’t do much about the design, we can make sure we are getting the best out of it with simple cleaning and adjusting. To do a thorough job the top cover need to come off - at this point those of us who are all thumbs are already backing away, but don’t panic, the FED2 is an easy camera to work on even if it’s your first. I have done several of these, and the improvement in general view and RF contrast/clarity has been from good to dramatic. Also with the top cover components removed it’s a great time to give everything a good clean (and most of them need it). A friend of mine was horrified when he started scrubbing away at the winder knurling and realized that the dark brown muck coming out of it was what he now refers to as “man fat” :D. Its worth remembering the FED2 is turning 50 next year :)

This first photo shows a rear view of a first (production) version and a late model that is going to get a bit of TLC. Here you can pick some of the differences in the models… The late model has the “mushroom” style winder knob, less knurling on the rewind knob, a higher positioned accessory shoe (required if you want to use a external viewfinder (except the Soviet “turret” finder)), different shutter speed dial and is missing the two screws on the back of the top cover (replaced with a hidden screw under the winder knob (see later picture)). Also of note the first version has a nice extra engraving on the top cover.

If you interested in the different FED2 models check out Jim Blaziks great web page … geocities.com/fzorkis/ EDIT 2008: This site is no longer up.. pity it had some stunning cameras. Here is a link (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=681) to another thread showing my refinished FED2's here on RFF

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/twobodies_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:25
Equipment used: Tray (ie. Paper dev tray), Small screwdriver set, long nose pliers with padded jaws (heat shrink etc.), Lens spanner wrench (see comment), Q-tips, Window cleaner, Toothbrush, Strong soap or solvent for cleaning chrome parts, Matt black paint & small brush (optional), A couple of drops of oil or grease.

Comments: I always work on a camera in a tray, like a 8x10 paper dev tray or a kitty litter tray (get a new one just for cameras and don’t let kitty near it :D), working with small parts you will drop them at times and it only takes one part lost and your camera is out of action, it’s also handy if you’re working on the kitchen table to be able to pick up the whole lot in the tray come dinnertime. The screwdrivers I used are a little set made by Stanley in a yellow box, I find the sets you see a lot in the clear and blue plastic box are often poor quality and the tips snap off; try and get something a cut above the cheapest. I have a set of long nose pliers that I’ve put heat shrink on the jaws for adjusting the RF cams and starting off a tight bezel without scratching or marring the finish. Lens spanner wrench, buy one if you’re going to work on a few cameras or lenses, mine was $15 from micro-tools (see link). A cheap DIY option is to file down the tips of an old set of long nose pliers to make a tool that will work, but take extra care not to slip and gouge the top cover!
https://www.micro-tools.com/store/home.aspx

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:27
Set a shutter speed (after cocking as always) and note it down somewhere. Unscrew both screws from the shutter speed dial and lift off the dial, partial winding of the shutter makes accessing the locking screw easier. Note you don’t have to remove the screws, just unscrew them a few turns.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/speeddial_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:28
Unscrew the locking screw in winder knob, unscrew winder knob anti-clockwise, remove film counter dial and spring. Remove any spacer washers from the shaft. Note the order they come off in, I have stuck them in some poster putty (Blu-Tack) but even a bit of sticky tape will make your life easy later. In this picture you can see the extra top cover screw in the late models that is hidden by the winder.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/winder_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:30
Unscrew the locking screw around shutter collar (put it into the rewind position if required to access the screw), screw off collar anti-clockwise.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/shutter_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:31
Unscrew the three screws holding on the accessory shoe.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/shoe_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:33
Lift up rewind knob and remove screw, now lift off the knob (the diopter arm is not removed at this point) and collar. From the inside (w/ back off) you can remove the rewind fork, spring and washer. Note: Early FED2’s will have three small screws in the diopter arm, they can be removed along with the arm.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/rewind_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:34
Unscrew the eyepiece anti-clockwise, pliers with padded jaws might be needed just to get them started, but I tend only to resort to them after losing some skin off my fingers. Use care not to scratch or gouge anything!

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/vfwindow_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:36
Unscrew RF cover anti-clockwise and remove. Now using the lens spanner, unscrew the RF lens anti-clockwise and remove. Note that it is actually two pieces, the inner lens is rotated to correct the vertical alignment. After cleaning I like to open up the gap slightly (shown bottom right) with a screwdriver to help it grip the outer collar; you may notice it looks as though when the factory set it they put a dab of glue on it to hold it in position, I have found it unnecessary to re-glue it…

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/rfwindow_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:38
Unscrew the three screws on the front of the top plate, the center is a short screw covering the RF adjustment. Older models will also have two screws at the back, later cameras don’t have these but do have an additional screw hidden under the winder that will need to be removed (see section on the winder for image).

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/coverscrews_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:39
Carefully lift up the top plate from the winder end, note that the diopter comes with the cover, use no force to remove the cover. Try and leave the diopter on the body by sliding the cover over the arm so you can see how it all works together.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/cover_remove_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:41
At this point observe how the diopter arm moves the lens backwards and forwards and how the spring is attached. Early FED2s are slightly different but the concept it the same.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/diopter_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:42
Unscrew the two screw holding the cover over the viewfinder and remove it, this will allow you to clean the side of it the rangefinder beam comes through much better than trying to do it with the cover in place, if the viewfinder glass seems to be glued in place I tend to leave it undisturbed and clean it in place, this one I removed to you can see how it all works.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/vf_dioptor_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:44
Now your FED is stripped down as far as you need to go and you are ready to start cleaning. Blow, brush or wipe any obvious dirt from the top of the body. Now using the Q-tips and window cleaner clean both surfaces of the RF prism, the three sides of the viewfinder prism, both sides of the diopter lens, the viewfinder eyepiece and the rangefinder vertical adjustment lens. Take your time and under a strong light check the glass for streaks, bits of fluff from the Q-tip, specks of dust etc.. You can use your standard lens as a good loupe to magnify things. Hold it up to your eye looking into it from the front holding the back of the lens about 1 inch from whatever you are viewing. Move the object back and forth to get focus (don’t forget to open the aperture up!). Again take your time here to get things really clean, a tip for getting that last hair/speck of dust off is to put a tiny bit of poster putty on the end of a small screwdriver, make into a point and lightly touch it on the dust spot. Don’t press it on or you may leave an oily mark and have to start over.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/clean_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:46
Give the chrome work a good scrubbing with a toothbrush and very hot soapy water. I’ve used car wash shampoo (for bugs and tar) with good results, but I guess you can use whatever you have. Pay a lot of attention to all the knurling. For really dirty parts I have used enamel thinners, that really strips out the muck quickly but also dries out your skin and may lift any flaky paint from the engravings, so beware. Don’t forget to stick a few Q-tips into the rewind post in the body where the rewind fork goes to get it clean.

If so equipped it might be a good idea to give the flash PC contacts a rub with some steelwool/fine sandpaper to ensure good contact while you have the top off.

Optional Step
Once the top cover is clean you may want to give the inside of it around the RF/VF optics a quick coat of matt black paint to cut down on any internal reflection that may cause problems say if you were shooting towards the sun. I had the paint already so thought it couldn’t hurt, I dried it with a hair drier so it was ready to go back together quickly. Note the inconsistent chroming of the inside of the top plate. The top and bottom plates are made of brass.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/cover_black_web.jpg

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:48
Reassembly is in reverse order

Reassembly Notes & Tips: Try and half slide the diopter control (with spring in place) onto the body post and thread the top cover over it, once it’s on and before doing anything else check that it is operating correctly. Look into the eyepiece socket: you should be able to see the diopter lens move back and forth as you move the arm. I tend to screw the accessory shoe and extra top screw (if a late model) down first to ensure that the top plate is leveled (with the back on the camera). When tightening the winder knob check the tension on the film counter, you can adjust it by bending the fingers on the spring slightly and/or locking the set screw in place with the winder knob at slight less than fully tightened. When reassembling the rewind parts put a drop of oil on your fingers and rub it on the shaft of the rewind fork. Put a drop on a Q-tip and run it through the body post where the fork goes as well.

Laika
07-25-2004, 03:49
Last of all you need to check and adjust as required the RF on your camera. The basic adjustment is to remove the RF cover and using a small screwdriver rotate the inner RF lens until the vertical adjustment is correct in the viewfinder. Now set the lens to infinity and adjust the RF screw behind the cover screw (see image) until the RF shows correct infinity focus on an object in the distance (I use the moon:)), that’s the basic adjustment but it doesn’t take into account any variation in close focusing. To adjust a close focus error you need to adjust the cam that rests on the back of the lens as well. This is how I go about it (after setting infinity). I measure off 2M on a table and stand a book or video cassette case up to focus on, then check the lens reading, say it’s off by “X” amount. Now with my padded jaw pliers turn the cam in one direction a small amount (sorry I forget which way does what at the mo), now you must reset the infinity focus again (it will have changed), now recheck the close focus again, at this point you will know if you turned the cam in the right direction or not. Now repeat this process over and over until both the close focus and infinity are correct…. Done.

Note the different shaped cams: the pie shaped of the later models and the tear drop shape of the early models.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/rf_adjust.jpg

Phew :p

back alley
07-25-2004, 05:11
laika,

this is fantastic and i thank you for all the work and time you have put into it!
i might just buy another fed 2 just to take it apart and work on it.
this is great!
in case you haven't noticed, i made this thread a sticky - it will now be the first post we see when we come to the russian rf section.
so, any more (repair) plans for the future??

joe

Peter
07-25-2004, 05:49
Bravo Laika! :D :D :D I am very impressed by your technical knowledge of Fed 2. I am wondering if you are familiar with Bessa R2? I am always very curious on the topic of adjusting the R2's rangefinder but afraid that I may void the warranty of my R2s. If you are able to produce a step by step guide to Bessa R2 repairs I am sure and all R2 users and I are deeply indepted to you! :p

Laika
07-25-2004, 07:20
Originally posted by backalley photo
laika,

this is fantastic and i thank you for all the work and time you have put into it!
i might just buy another fed 2 just to take it apart and work on it.
this is great!
in case you haven't noticed, i made this thread a sticky - it will now be the first post we see when we come to the russian rf section.
so, any more (repair) plans for the future??

joe

Thanks Joe, I hope it helps out a few fellow Soviet RF addicts

More repair plans? Too many! :rolleyes: I have got to get out and shot more hehehe. Let me think, I've got a friends FED2 I’m putting new red shutter curtains in (he is doing the wildest refinish on this one I’ve seen), one of my FED2s for curtains, another 2 that is a full rebuild and refinish in every respect (long term project), a Zorki 5 that needs some winder tweaks and a pair of FED3s I bought for 0.01c that will become one custom shooter (this one has jumped the queue to first place) and there must be a couple more I've forgotten...I think I may just have to give up sleeping :D.... Well I've got a couple of shorter projects I thought I might write up and post but they can get outa hand, I thought this one might take an afternoon but ended up taking the best part of a weekend, but worth it if it helps out a few people.


Peter wrote:
...If you are able to produce a step by step guide to Bessa R2 repairs I am sure and all R2 users and I are deeply indepted to you!

If you can sell them to me for $20 each I get a dozen of them and get to work :D

Rich Silfver
07-25-2004, 08:56
Bravo!!

Makes me want to crack open the M3 and see if I can do the same with it !!!

..kidding...I'm all thumbs....

Excellent tutorial!

P.S: For some Leica repair stuff this is a pretty good place: http://www.mediajoy.com/en/lrc/index.html

rover
07-25-2004, 14:34
My god I wish I had the patients to do something like that.

Great info Laika, thanks.

Peter
07-25-2004, 15:27
Hi Laika,

That was a good one. So that was how you mastered Fed 2 repair! So how many Fed 2 were sacrificed in the process of uncovering its anatomical secrets?

Regards,
Peter
:p

Laika
07-25-2004, 19:12
Peter wrote:
..So how many Fed 2 was sacrificed in the process of uncovering its anatomical secrets?

I can assure you no FED2s were harmed during this procedure! :D

taffer
07-26-2004, 00:52
WOW ! :eek:

Laika THANKS a lot for posting all that info and for all that work ! Amazing ! Now I'm really curious about that Fed-2 you're completely rebuilding and the custom shooter Fed3.

Only dreaming, but if a Fed-2 could be fitted with a 'modern' bigger brighter VF and slow speeds, well what a winner camera then !

IMO the Fed-2 is a great design success, the original Feds and Zorkis were mainly Leica copies but with this Fed, designers really took a step ahead. BTW do you know if the original Fed2 was going to feature a separate VF/RF ? If you look at the eyepiece you clearly see it's placed on one side, leaving enough room on its right for the twin eyepiece...

Only thoughts... :rolleyes:

Gordon Coale
10-12-2004, 19:03
I'm going to need this. This will be most helpful. Thanks. I've gone off the deep end on these FSU cameras. I have two cameras and a lens coming (I hope) from three separate Ebay auctions. A Zorki 6 with a white Jupiter 8, a black Jupiter 12, and a late Fed 2 with a panda Industar-61. At least so the auctions claimed. This thread is both a help and an inspiration. At least I will be able to get my Fed 2 cleaned.

back alley
10-12-2004, 20:04
welcome gordon!

joe

Doug
10-12-2004, 22:38
Welcome, Gordon! I used to work not far from there, in Mukileo. What's that camera in your avatar photo; do I see a red dot? ;-)

Rich Silfver
10-12-2004, 23:03
Doug, that would be a Petri 35 in Gordon's hands :)

Laika
10-13-2004, 04:03
Gordon welcome to RFF :) ... Looking forward to seeing some pic's from your Z6 & FED2 (nice start in Soviet RF's btw) when they arrive.

peter_n
10-13-2004, 05:01
Welcome to the forum, Gordon! :)

Laika: Fantastic job with this info. I hope your thread gets linked to in other FSU forums so it will get a really wide readership.

Your effort deserves no less!

Doug
10-13-2004, 13:19
Ah, right! Thanks, Richard, I just knew Leica had copied that red dot from somewhere! :-D

Solinar
10-31-2004, 14:14
A superb posting Laika, a great asset.

berci
12-15-2004, 00:33
Hey Laika,

I have just ebayed a late FED 2, just because of your posting. :)

Is a Zorki similar inside?

Berci

RML
12-15-2004, 00:52
Originally posted by taffer
...Only dreaming, but if a Fed-2 could be fitted with a 'modern' bigger brighter VF and slow speeds, well what a winner camera then !...

I'm wondering what makes a VF bright or not. Why are the Bessa and Leica VFs so much brighter than the FED's? Obviously the size of the window ill have something to do with it, but what else? Would resilvering the mirror or using clearer glass make a difference? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be too difficult to make the FED's VF at least a bit brighter than it is now....

Laika
12-15-2004, 02:01
Originally posted by RML
I'm wondering what makes a VF bright or not. Why are the Bessa and Leica VFs so much brighter than the FED's? Obviously the size of the window ill have something to do with it, but what else? Would resilvering the mirror or using clearer glass make a difference? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be too difficult to make the FED's VF at least a bit brighter than it is now....

I think beyond the clean up I posted it would need new optical elements using modern materials. The main glass of the viewfinder is made up from two triangular sections of glass glued together, one is amber and one is green in colour. I'm guessing the combo was to give contrast to the RF spot. The down side is the dark finder (compared to modern cameras). The mirror issue is only relevant if the focus spot is not strong enough looking thru the viewfinder. My thoughts are it comes down to the dark glass and small size of everything optical, the eyepiece lens is only 5.5mm in dia. I have heard of people removing the diopter lens to help brighten up the finder a bit but haven’t tried it myself.

Laika
12-15-2004, 02:15
Originally posted by berci
Hey Laika,

I have just ebayed a late FED 2, just because of your posting. :)

Is a Zorki similar inside?

Berci

Cool, the late FED2's are nice... but then so are the early ones .. Ok they are all nice :D

What Zorki are we talking about? I'd say they are similar if you’re talking about the Z5 and Z6 with the long RF base length and lack of slow speeds.

berci
12-16-2004, 00:08
I don't know it exactly and can't check it at the moment because the camera is one thousand miles away from here. As I remember it looks very much like an early FED2 and has an Industar 26.

C-Petteri
01-05-2005, 05:48
I also would like to know if Zorki cameras are similiar from inside ? I have a Zorki 1, which rangefinder needs some tuning (distances just donīt match), but I donīt know if I have to remove the top plate to fix that problem or not. Any help ?

I also have a Moskva 2 camera which has a similiar problem, but thatīs a different story, I think...

Laika
01-05-2005, 07:02
Originally posted by C-Petteri
....I have a Zorki 1, which rangefinder needs some tuning (distances just donīt match), but I donīt know if I have to remove the top plate to fix that problem or not. Any help ?


The top doesn't have to come off to setup the RF. Its much the same as mentioned above. Have a look at this link :)
http://jay.fedka.com/index_files/Page422.htm

jlw
01-05-2005, 08:59
Originally posted by RML
I'm wondering what makes a VF bright or not. Why are the Bessa and Leica VFs so much brighter than the FED's? Obviously the size of the window ill have something to do with it, but what else? Would resilvering the mirror or using clearer glass make a difference? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be too difficult to make the FED's VF at least a bit brighter than it is now....

VF/RF brightness relates partly to the quality of the components, and also to the design of the rangefinder optics.

In a combined VF/RF, the rangefinder image has to be "inserted" into the viewfinder image path. To make this work in the usual coincident-image design, there needs to be a semi-reflecting mirror (aka beamsplitter) in the path, so that both the viewfinder and rangefinder images can be combined together.

The inexpensive way to do this is to have the semi-reflecting mirror cover the entire finder area; that's how they do it on a Fed (and most other RF cameras that have a rangefinder patch with blurry edges.) This reduces overall finder brightness, because the part of the viewfinder outside the RF patch is also only semi-transparent, and doesn't pass all the light.

A more expensive and elaborate way of doing this is seen on some Canon and Nikon RF cameras. In these, the beamsplitter was masked before the reflecting material was coated onto it, so that it's ONLY semi-reflecting in roughly the area of the RF patch. (Looking at the beamsplitter from the front, often you can see vertical and horizontal 'gunsight' marks left by the wires that supported the mask.)

This allows the rest of the finder area to be brighter. The downside is that since the beamsplitter, RF image, and viewfinder image are focused at different distances, the RF patch not only has a blurry edge, but often a dark halo around it (from the unsilvered area of the beamsplitter.)

The best but really expensive way to do it, as used on Leicas starting with the M3 as well as on the Minolta CLE and the Bessas, is to use a complex optical system inside the RF/VF module. This incorporates a system of lenses and prisms that allow the designer to achieve focus of the viewfinder image, the framelines, the rangefinder image, and the edges of the rangefinder mask, all at the same point. This gives a sharp-edged rangefinder patch and also allows the semi-transparent area of the beamsplitter to affect ONLY the patch. This allows full brightness for the rest of the focusing area. (Actually the rest of the area must still be somewhat semi-transparent, so that the framellines can be reflected into it, but the brightness loss is not as great.)

Take a look at a diagram of a Leica or Bessa RF/VF module, and you'll see how complex it is. That's one reason a modern RF camera is so much more expensive than a similarly-featured SLR!


As to trying to make the finder image brighter in a Fed or similar camera: You probably don't want to do it! You could certainly brighten the image by polishing off some of the semi-reflecting material from the beamsplitter. But that would make the rangefinder patch harder to see, because there would be less material to reflect it into the finder view.

Your best bet probably is simply to make sure that the optical surfaces inside the finder are as clean as possible. Use great care if you decide to clean the beamsplitter itself, because the semi-reflecting coating rests on the glass surface and is easy to remove by accident.

RML
01-05-2005, 09:11
Damn! Another dream shot to pieces! Thanks, JLW! :)

Natalia
02-16-2005, 13:16
I also would like to know if Zorki cameras are similiar from inside ? I have a Zorki 1, which rangefinder needs some tuning (distances just donīt match), but I donīt know if I have to remove the top plate to fix that problem or not. Any help ?

I also have a Moskva 2 camera which has a similiar problem, but thatīs a different story, I think...


nice to "see" ya here, Petteri!

yauyaursk
02-17-2005, 07:59
Thanks a lot~!It was very useful for me~!
But my fed-2 seem some problem now.
It will sound "sqeeze" when I push the shutter release.
Don't know what happen on it.
But when I push Harder or the shutter speed more lower.
The sound will disappear.
Can Any one help me about this question.
Thanks alot

Roman
02-17-2005, 12:52
Probably it would need a bit of lubrication - I have one FED 2 that also makes squeaking noises at 1/100 and 1/250, but not at other speeds, and my other FED 2 is really silent (but that one was CLA'd by Oleg...)

Roman

yauyaursk
02-18-2005, 08:54
Thank you Roman
I will send it to my other photomate for a certain check.
Who knows what happen next with FSU-made Fed-2.
But I will very sad now......

dll927
04-26-2005, 12:41
Holy hats! Is this thread going to be the top one on the list FOREVER????

kiev4a
04-26-2005, 12:58
Originally Posted by C-Petteri
I also would like to know if Zorki cameras are similiar from inside ? I have a Zorki 1, which rangefinder needs some tuning (distances just donīt match), but I donīt know if I have to remove the top plate to fix that problem or not. Any help ?

I also have a Moskva 2 camera which has a similiar problem, but thatīs a different story, I think...


Zorki and FED 1 adjustments are the same, as far as aligning the rangfinder spot.

http://home.att.net/~wayne.cornell/camera/repair.htm

nomade
07-02-2005, 14:12
That was very usefull..Really.

nomade
07-24-2005, 04:47
I need a quick help, the winder isn't moving off!

nomade
07-24-2005, 05:01
I removed the screw, the winder itself seemed to be locked in..

I mean yes i can't unscrew the knob..

nomade
07-24-2005, 05:13
Alright, i'll do that now..thanks.

nomade
07-24-2005, 05:21
Well a friend of mine did it for me, it seems that i don't have enough force to do that...!!

nomade
07-25-2005, 04:13
Work was on halt yesterday, i found out that there's missing gear...It was sunday shops were close..I'll resume today. But the lens screws are irritating..
It's awfull being new on the job :D

nomade
07-27-2005, 03:26
All is back together now, everything is in place...And working.

It feels much better now...It also feeels good to be that familiar with ur camera.

zpuskas
08-26-2005, 15:29
I don't own a FED but I can certainly appreciate the effort here. Thanks.

hugivza
10-10-2005, 23:24
I was seduced last night by a black FED 2 from the baying auction house. I hope that it is quicker than the last shipment from the FSU, otherwise it will get caught up in the Christmas postal mess. It's comforting to know that there is so much intellectual knowledge around on this camera, which I must admit has considerable appeal. The photo on e-bay shows the serial no as being 315685. On the assumption that this is correct, and to date I have no reason to belief otherwise, is there any way of finding out what year it was produced?

pshinkaw
10-11-2005, 07:01
No, the SN on a Fed has no discernable relationship to the year of manufacture. If the lens is original equipment that might give you a clue, or maybe not. On a Fed-2, the best you can do is to identify the sub-model based on the features and then research the time span when that particular sub-model was in production. Parts are easily interchangeable on Fed's and the Soviets practiced incremental product development so even that can be uncertain.

-Paul

hugivza
10-11-2005, 08:23
Thanks - I noted the earlier reference to model variants in Laika's post. I'll wait until I get it in my hot sticky hands.

jerryalan
12-08-2005, 14:22
hello
in respose to which russian rangefinder , for me the zorki 6 fits the bill, i have tried a zorki 4 and it way cool but messing around with the removable back and the loose spool just got to be problematic. If you can get your hand on the Olympus rc35 rangefinder go for it because its all time favorite compact street shooter. Russian Lens are wow for the price jupiter 8 nice, happy clicking

jerry

tedwhite
01-02-2006, 19:17
Getting back, for a moment, to Laika's first post with the thumbnail of the two Fed bodies. I quite clearly have the later model. However, the later model top plate by the shutter release shows a "B" to "C", whereas the earlier model shows "n" to "c". But my late model shows "n" to "c". Otherwise everything about the design is clearly late model.

Ted

teemu.laine
01-28-2006, 11:11
Nice job! Iīll definitely have to try that out. I have a FED-2 body with Jupiter-8, but the VF/RF is almost useless because of the dirt and misalignment. Iīll have to borrow some tools from work and try this out!

Thanks!

p.s. my fed-2: http://www.kameralaukku.com/galleriat/albums/teemu/fed2.jpg

lmd91343
03-22-2006, 20:56
Laika,


Wow, Great job!

squeaky_clean
04-04-2006, 19:02
Just thought I should throw out a big thanks to Laika! These instructions were great!

mikeb380
04-10-2006, 03:09
Laika, I just wandered into this thread and read from the start. Wonderful presentation. I have a FED 2C and it is hard to see through the RF. I guess next step is following your instructions.

There is an alternative to Micro Tools for the spanner and other tools. Ed Romney has a good selection as well as repair books and manuals. The spanners are at

http://www.edromney.com/
His home page is:

http://www.edromney.com/

His Spanners are less expensive than Micro's

Again, Laika thanks for the effort.

Michael :p

howpow
04-28-2006, 17:30
Hi, great thread. I would just like to add some info that I encountered when servicing the VF/RF of my Fed 2. If you remove the viewfinder prism for cleaning it is easy to replace it on a slightly different angle. This happened to me and after I reassembled the camera I could not adjust the rangefinder to infinity by quite a large amount. It took me a while to realise that the viewing prism was the problem. I would recommend setting the horizontal adjusting screw about midway, loosening the two screws holding the viewing prism, lock the lens on infinity and go outside and adjust the rangefinder to infinity by adjusting the angle of the viewing prism. After tightening the two screws again infinity will probably be off but should be easily adjustable with the horizontal adjustment screw. Hope this info is useful. :)

clintock
11-03-2006, 20:16
When doing this cleaning procedure to the fed 2, I urge you to try the finder with the diopter control and eyepiece left out. Slap it together and look through just to see if you like it- I have done this to one of my feds and it's amazing the difference in brightness with those elements gone. I can't remember now, but I had to make a baffle or something around the rewind shaft to make up for the missing lever..
Also since there's no eyepiece any more, there's dust to worry about, not that the fed is super-sealed to begin with.

dazedgonebye
11-13-2006, 18:43
Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like to adjust the cam on the back of the lens?
I'm a lens killer from way back and I'd like to get this right.

Thanks.:bang:

Last of all you need to check and adjust as required the RF on your camera. The basic adjustment is to remove the RF cover and using a small screwdriver rotate the inner RF lens until the vertical adjustment is correct in the viewfinder. Now set the lens to infinity and adjust the RF screw behind the cover screw (see image) until the RF shows correct infinity focus on an object in the distance (I use the moon:)), that’s the basic adjustment but it doesn’t take into account any variation in close focusing. To adjust a close focus error you need to adjust the cam that rests on the back of the lens as well. This is how I go about it (after setting infinity). I measure off 2M on a table and stand a book or video cassette case up to focus on, then check the lens reading, say it’s off by “X” amount. Now with my padded jaw pliers turn the cam in one direction a small amount (sorry I forget which way does what at the mo), now you must reset the infinity focus again (it will have changed), now recheck the close focus again, at this point you will know if you turned the cam in the right direction or not. Now repeat this process over and over until both the close focus and infinity are correct…. Done.

Note the different shaped cams: the pie shaped of the later models and the tear drop shape of the early models.

Phew :p

Pyrs
01-27-2007, 08:41
Hello Laika,
Many thanks for the tutorial. You have made me want to clean the top of my Zorki 1.
Do the same guidelines apply?

mike goldberg
04-08-2007, 06:54
Oh, my!... I'm waiting on a Fed-2 in the mail. Laika, this is so great!
And, my RFF buddy Ruben, on the other side of town, has 'hands of gold.'

My Fed-2 is from a good Seller at a reasonable price... but, who knows?
Who knows what the use history is, and what's inside?!? I may never
have to do this... yet, knowledge is power ,and I have good hands...
too ;-)

Thanks again, Aussie mate,
Cheers, mike

SCOTFORTHLAD
04-25-2007, 05:57
This is a great source of info' and assistance.I seem to recall that it has been put on another site as a PDF File.Can anyone tell me where to find it.

Thanks,:)
Brian.

Nutth
09-29-2007, 03:13
Thank you Laika

I use you guide to open my FED3 type a And it is very easy open

Big THANK

Spyderman
10-24-2007, 01:10
In case someone needs to know how to calibrate the rangefinder on FED-2 for close-focus:

Read post number 17 of this thread and see the following picture:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=51689&stc=1&d=1194801564

arbib
12-27-2007, 12:56
I am buying a Fed 2 D (1958) in the next few weeks..This DIY is a great insight of the insides of these. I had a Zorki 1, and a Kiev 4, But I like the Fed 2 better for a long base RF. This and another Fed 2 thread has given me FSU Gas -- AGAIN -- :D

I guess I need to get a 50/1.5 also for this baby !! Or a nice 35mm f/1.8 Canon when I rob a bank to pay for it :eek:

Or Both :)

Peter

wolves3012
12-27-2007, 14:26
The inexpensive way to do this is to have the semi-reflecting mirror cover the entire finder area; that's how they do it on a Fed (and most other RF cameras that have a rangefinder patch with blurry edges.) This reduces overall finder brightness, because the part of the viewfinder outside the RF patch is also only semi-transparent, and doesn't pass all the light.


As to trying to make the finder image brighter in a Fed or similar camera: You probably don't want to do it! You could certainly brighten the image by polishing off some of the semi-reflecting material from the beamsplitter. But that would make the rangefinder patch harder to see, because there would be less material to reflect it into the finder view.

Your best bet probably is simply to make sure that the optical surfaces inside the finder are as clean as possible. Use great care if you decide to clean the beamsplitter itself, because the semi-reflecting coating rests on the glass surface and is easy to remove by accident.
Actually this is incorrect except for the FED 1 and Zorki 1, C, 2 and 2C models and the FED 5C. All other models use a beam splitter made from two triangular prisms glued together. The reflecting surface is the interface between the two and it is neither half-silvered nor accessible. Beyond cleaning the external optical faces it is not possible to improve the brightness of the VF image. The FED 5C has a partial splitter, in the centre only, so has a much brighter VF with no loss of contrast. The early models (FED 1, Zorki 1, C, 2, and 2C) do have a half-silvered splitter and this is very delicate indeed.

moving_electron
03-17-2008, 08:10
I sent an email today to the site folks letting them know that the thumbnails and links to images in this tutorial are missing as of the server change. Hopefully they will return as this thread is excellent with the accompanying images.

moving_electron
03-17-2008, 08:20
I used this repair thread and excellent tutorial to clean out a Fed2b. But the Fed also had the diopter adjustment jammed. I have heard that mentioned in a few places. The symptom is that when one moves the diopter adjust lever all the way in one direction it gets "stuck".

The cause is that when the moving diopter correcting lens is all the way back it can be too far back for the lever to catch it properly so that it can move it forward again. The fix was easy. The square diopter lens (moving lens) was bent a tad forward. I just bent it a slight amount back from 90 degrees so that the top hit the stop slightly before the bottom. Therefore the bottom was slightly moved out when the lens is all the way back. Voila the lever has enough space to catch the moving lens properly. The amount tilted back from vertical is very slight but important at least on my camera.

Laika
04-12-2008, 02:23
After the server change the images on the first page were lost so I have reloaded them. While digging around to find the images I came across these as well, someone may find them useful.

Two different types of film counter tension springs

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/winder_spring_web.jpg

Strap lug detail

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/web.jpg


Multi part image

1. FED2 fitted with a FED5 fixed spool (interchangeable)
2. Standard FED2 removable spool
3. Lug that holds the spool in place
4. Spool removed
5. Film loaded on spool
6. Spool and film loaded in camera

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee270/Laika_bucket/fed2/loading_web.jpg

wallace
05-06-2008, 05:05
Hello Laika,

thank you for your wonderful service manual! I have purchased a FED 2 that seems to work very well. The finder is clear and bright enough but wearing glasses makes it impossible for me to see the frame. Without glasses I can't read the scales on the lens, so I'dlike to use an external finder for my 35mm and 50mm lenses. The russian finder I own doesn't fit. So do you have an idea how to solve this problem. Would the Voigtländer finders fit? (terrible, the CV finders costs as much as 5 Feds!) Can you tell me how much the internal finder shows of the actual image? How do you use the camera when shooting objects at close distance? (parallax correction). So many questions....

Wallace

mnmleung
05-06-2008, 05:24
Laika, thanks for the new photos
moving_electron, thanks for getting the original photos back!
... looking for a FED-2 to take apart :-) ming

nomade
10-09-2008, 04:49
I've a problem the glass prism of the view finder is reflecting the cover!

mark-b
02-08-2009, 03:04
Great work, thanks! I hope it stays here, for the time I have to do this myself :)

ejfrolich
09-09-2010, 11:24
Thank you...
Just got my Fed 2 today. I bought it from an EBay seller. It looked ok and was very cheap. When I unpacked I found the vertical and horizontal alignment were way of. The range-finder was dirty en the lens was turning so heavy it came off the camera...
I found your article very helpful. So my Fed 2 is now clean, has a good aligned range-finder and a smooth operating lens. I did it in just over 2 hours. I do not have any experience in repairing camera's but I can manage and that makes me more confident for the future and my other range-finders.

I have a Zorki 4, Kiev 4AM, Fed 2 and 3. Just because I could not make a choice... I opened my Fed 2 and made it mine this way. I hope the first pictures turn out OK!

ChrisCummins
12-18-2010, 13:27
Hi, regarding the post on disassembling the two parts of the rangefinder lens (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8581&postcount=9), how is this actually achieved? Does the inner part of the two piece construction just unscrew anti clock wise or is there not even a screw thread? Thanks

Martytoof
08-11-2012, 20:54
Hi, regarding the post on disassembling the two parts of the rangefinder lens (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8581&postcount=9), how is this actually achieved? Does the inner part of the two piece construction just unscrew anti clock wise or is there not even a screw thread? Thanks

I am also looking for the same information. I have an RF lens that I need to disassemble (came out in one piece) to adjust the vertical match, but I can't figure out how this lens works. I have in my hands, essentially one piece. The black inner lens with the silver "trim" seemingly affixed, and no way to adjust the inner window.

Thanks in advance if anyone can answer this!

wolves3012
08-18-2012, 04:24
I am also looking for the same information. I have an RF lens that I need to disassemble (came out in one piece) to adjust the vertical match, but I can't figure out how this lens works. I have in my hands, essentially one piece. The black inner lens with the silver "trim" seemingly affixed, and no way to adjust the inner window.

Thanks in advance if anyone can answer this!
The RF window is in 3 pieces. There is an outer chrome bezel which unscrews to reveal the inner two pieces. Sometimes, the bezel also removes the whole assembly. The inner pieces screw into the body and basically the outer part is an externally-threaded short tube. Inside that is the innermost piece which is a metal-surrounded window. This is just pushed in place and locked to the outer part with shellac after the initial adjustment. The inner and outer parts each have 2 small notches to allow them to be turned.

Hope that helps as to how it's made up!

Martytoof
08-31-2012, 05:28
The RF window is in 3 pieces. There is an outer chrome bezel which unscrews to reveal the inner two pieces. Sometimes, the bezel also removes the whole assembly. The inner pieces screw into the body and basically the outer part is an externally-threaded short tube. Inside that is the innermost piece which is a metal-surrounded window. This is just pushed in place and locked to the outer part with shellac after the initial adjustment. The inner and outer parts each have 2 small notches to allow them to be turned.

Hope that helps as to how it's made up!

Hmm. Thank you for this! Unfortunately I'm still at a loss for how to separate the chrome bezel. I understand now that it's screwed to the inner retaining ring, but it just won't budge. I'm afraid to put too much pressure on the outer ring as it will almost certainly destroy the threads which screw into the camera body, so using pliers or vise grips is out of the question. I've put the entire assembly into some rubbing alcohol for a few days hoping it would dissolve any grime that was holding the pieces together, but sadly it appears that had no effect. I might just have to call it a day on this particular piece and perhaps find a parts camera to salvage a better eyepiece, but I'll keep trying for a little while longer :)

kotokot21
07-28-2017, 02:48
Please, reupload the pictures! The links are broken!

Laika
07-29-2017, 01:32
Please, reupload the pictures! The links are broken!

Sorry about the broken links... My images are hosted by photobucket which up until the 31st of June 2017 allowed free hosting and embedding (for the last 14yrs) in forums like this one. As of the 1st of July without warning they have disabled embedding unless users pay an annual fee of $400 USD.

Anyone know a reliable, easy to use and free host that allow 3rd
party embedding?

johnf04
07-29-2017, 01:59
I think you'll find all of the free hosting services will go the same way as Photobucket. I grasped the nettle, and set up my own web page to host pictures for linking.

kotokot21
07-31-2017, 07:06
Maybe public images in dropbox?

kotokot21
10-12-2017, 02:56
Sorry about the broken links... My images are hosted by photobucket which up until the 31st of June 2017 allowed free hosting and embedding (for the last 14yrs) in forums like this one. As of the 1st of July without warning they have disabled embedding unless users pay an annual fee of $400 USD.

Anyone know a reliable, easy to use and free host that allow 3rd
party embedding?

Maybe flickr?

webOSUser
05-03-2018, 02:25
Could the images be hosted here on RFF?

Steve W

felix.a.kuhn
05-22-2018, 02:29
Laika,
thank you very much for this manual. With this it was easy to service my FED-2.

Best regards
Felix