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RobScumaci
02-27-2008, 18:12
I started the overhaul of my 35RC tonight. It worked great, but no juice to the meter, and it needed a cleaning badly, so I'm disassembling and cleaning and then reapplying new leatherette. Hopefully I'll find the source of the meter problem as well. I've loaded some pics of the beginning of the disassembly on my .mac website. Feel free to download, share, etc...if it will help you out with your own project. If you want a pic of something specific while I do the work shoot me an e-mail or PM and I'll try and help you out and take some pics for you or answer questions.

NEW PICS ADDED

Here is the link: http://gallery.mac.com/scumaci#100021

Rob

jesse1dog
02-28-2008, 01:58
Hi Rob
Could be an interesting and very useful sequence of photos - please keep shooting and add to the gallery. I've just picked up an Oly 35RC for 'peanuts' and of course it needs some attention. I'm about to remove the top to have a good look at the rangefinder which might be a bit brighter than it seems to be.

jesse

jgcraft
02-28-2008, 16:45
Rob, Great Pics, I wish I had them a month ago. Here is a link that I found most useful: http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-134.html I also found Matt Denton's site a great resourse: http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/rangefinders.html

Good Luck!

George

RobScumaci
02-28-2008, 18:01
Thanks guys, I hope it helps the nest guy. George, I have looked at rick olesons site. Thanks for the denton link as well.

jgcraft
02-28-2008, 18:22
I forgot to add this. I had 2 meter problems. The first was a corroded wire on the meter (bottom plate) and the second was the contacts, on the right side beside the lens, were stuck together. I simply separated them with a tooth pick and the meter fired to life. I couldn't tell from the angle of the pic if you have the same problem. Just FYI.

George

eric
02-28-2008, 18:29
That's a BRILLIANT pin spanner!

RobScumaci
02-28-2008, 19:14
Thanks George.

Thanks Eric - it works wonderfully if you slide the brads in as far as you can.

RobScumaci
02-29-2008, 19:24
George - can you describe this better for me, I'm not sure what I am looking for. You mean the contact on the right as you face the camera? The small pin and the rod that contacts the pin when you turn to A?

I forgot to add this. I had 2 meter problems. The first was a corroded wire on the meter (bottom plate) and the second was the contacts, on the right side beside the lens, were stuck together. I simply separated them with a tooth pick and the meter fired to life. I couldn't tell from the angle of the pic if you have the same problem. Just FYI.

George

jgcraft
03-01-2008, 04:51
That's the one. It works off a cam that moves the contact to make contact in the "A" position. Mine was stuck so that when you turned to off it stayed in place. In fact it never moved even when you turned it to f22. As I recall there is an indentation in the stationary side of the contact on the right and it was inside that indentation. I looked at several web sites but I cannot find a picture to refer you to, but I think you are looking at what I was talking about.

It also looked like the wire was soldered on the light meter but when I used a tooth pick to make sure it was solid it came off. If you haven't experienced this on old cameras, I never trust any of the connections. Most of the time this is what I find on non-working meters.

Hope this helps.

George

mjflory
03-01-2008, 06:18
Rob, those are great pictures. Thanks!

RobScumaci
03-02-2008, 17:47
Thanks George, I know what you are referring to. I'll take some closeups and post those some time this week.

Thanks again.

jgcraft
03-03-2008, 14:23
Rob,

I took a second look at the last pic and the contact is not stuck like mine was. I can't see the contact on the right but for sure they are not stuck together. Looks like the camera was stored somewhere really damp or got dunked once. I see rust and lots of fungus. You may want to pull the meter and see what it looks like. Careful of the small arm that links the mechanism with the lens. I would test every connection. I purchased a volt/olm meter from Harbor Freight for $3. Great buy if you have one close. Not on sale I think they are still only $4. I have found it invaluable to check out wiring.

Good Luck

George

RobScumaci
03-03-2008, 17:37
It smells like a fireplace - I think it was stored on a mantlepiece. Amazingly, it works perfectly, except for the meter. I have an old volt/olm meter from my highschool days (President of the A-V squad LOL) so I spent some time soldering in my younger days. Now I just need to remember how to use it.

I checked the contacts and they move nicely, and them seem to engage when they are supposed to engage. I suspect it's a juice issue and there is a lose connection preventing power from getting where it needs to.

Removing the meter is tricky. I can't figure out how to get it out without damaging the needle.

Scribo
03-03-2008, 19:50
Rob,

Thanks for posting this set of images. Between these and Rick Oleson's exploded diagram I got up the nerve to open my latest RC. It survived, and so did I.

A note for those who are trying this for the first time.

I first tried a substantial paper clip as an ad hoc spanner, figuring that it would resist twisting. I found, though, that the heavier gauge wire won't fit the tiny depressions. The thinner wire works better. You can mitigate twisting by holding the wires close to the end.

Also, don't forget the reverse thread on the timer lever!

jgcraft
03-04-2008, 04:47
Rob,

It's really not that difficult. Two screws and it comes out moving it towards the back so the doesn't get bent. Somewhere on the web I found a reference on how to get it out but I can't find it now. I also would remove the battery holder and check the wire underneath. I also read that it was a common corrosion problem.

George

RobScumaci
03-04-2008, 08:49
You are welcome Phillip. I have used so many free references on the net posted by others (and many here on this board) so I thought I would contribute in a way I was able.

George:

I got the meter most of the way out but was feeling some resistance, either from a wire underneath or the needle, so I backed off.

I am working on the battery holder, that wire looks suspect, but the screw is stripped, so I have to drill that out.

I'll take some macros soon and keep you all posted.

RobScumaci
03-04-2008, 08:51
Did you get anywhere yet? Let us know.

Hi Rob
Could be an interesting and very useful sequence of photos - please keep shooting and add to the gallery. I've just picked up an Oly 35RC for 'peanuts' and of course it needs some attention. I'm about to remove the top to have a good look at the rangefinder which might be a bit brighter than it seems to be.

jesse

radiocemetery
03-04-2008, 19:56
Hey Rob,

The plastic battery tray or holder is glued into the camera body, there are also 2 pegs on the bottom of the holder that index into corresponding holes in the camera body. The screw does not fasten the holder to the body. The screw secures the wire to the holder and little clip in the bottom of the holder. The battery holder can be pried out and the wire, clip, screw should come with it. Of course the other end of the white wire will still be attached to the camera so some care is necessary here.


Steve West

jgcraft
03-05-2008, 16:32
Hey Rob,

Just one more thought. Since you said it smelled like smoke and it looks like it has sustained some moisture damage and the pictures of the meter make it look like it is corroded perhaps one simple test might help. Does the meter needle move freely when touched? It should bounce at the slightest touch. Just wondering if it is corroded and binding the needle.

George

jgcraft
03-05-2008, 16:56
Rob,

Another very helpful website I found when doing mine. http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair.html~Main

This shows the battery comparment deal.

George

RobScumaci
03-06-2008, 19:01
It moves very well, yes.

Hey Rob,

Just one more thought. Since you said it smelled like smoke and it looks like it has sustained some moisture damage and the pictures of the meter make it look like it is corroded perhaps one simple test might help. Does the meter needle move freely when touched? It should bounce at the slightest touch. Just wondering if it is corroded and binding the needle.

George

RobScumaci
03-06-2008, 19:05
Very helpful - thanks.

Rob,

Another very helpful website I found when doing mine. http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair.html~Main (http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair.html%7EMain)

This shows the battery comparment deal.

George

RobScumaci
03-06-2008, 19:07
I see what you are saying, as well as the link George provided above. This makes sense. I'm gonna try this, and jut hot wiring the meter as well.

Hey Rob,

The plastic battery tray or holder is glued into the camera body, there are also 2 pegs on the bottom of the holder that index into corresponding holes in the camera body. The screw does not fasten the holder to the body. The screw secures the wire to the holder and little clip in the bottom of the holder. The battery holder can be pried out and the wire, clip, screw should come with it. Of course the other end of the white wire will still be attached to the camera so some care is necessary here.


Steve West

tkluck
03-07-2008, 05:59
I picked up a 35rc recently. Cleaned the finder and good as new, almost. Got it cheap because of a dented filter ring. When I got it I found that the filter ring is recessed, making it look almost impossible the remove the dent without traumatic disassembly of the lens.
I wonder if it's worth the potential trouble or should I just admit that I rarely use filters on a RF camera anyway?

RobScumaci
03-07-2008, 18:13
I would leave it alone personally. I don't like to mess with glass.

RobScumaci
03-09-2008, 10:54
New pics added showing removal of the battery compartment and the meter. I also added some showing closeups of the rangefinder and film advance.

The screw holding the contact and the wire on the battery compartment was heavily corroded, so I got a new screw and nut today that should work. I drilled the old one out yesterday because the screwhead was stripped.

For those that try, it is a bit difficult to removed the battery compartment and you may dislodged the wire on the bottom (white wire in pics.) It's easy enough to put back on, so it's not a really big deal, but do it carefully nonetheless.

I think the my meter looks pretty good and the needle moves freely. I removed it to check it out and resoldered the connection yesterday. (Black wire in pics.) I am going to try and replace the battery compartment today and see if I can get any power to the meter. If all this doesn't work, I'll be at a deadend and will use it without the meter, unless I get some other suggestions.

Rob

jgcraft
03-16-2008, 14:15
Rob, Any luck?

George

RobScumaci
03-21-2008, 18:33
Nope, dead end right now. Not sure why no power. It may be something internal I can't get too. The connections look good at the battery and the meter, and the meter looks good.

jgcraft
03-24-2008, 07:33
I did a Konica recently and the connection at the CDS cell was bad. Since this one appears to have been wet, all the contacts are suspect. You may just have to break out the hand held meter. If you had a meter you could probably test the CDS cell.

Good luck,

George

RobScumaci
04-02-2008, 18:07
I have a meter - do you know how to test the CDS?

jgcraft
04-03-2008, 13:08
Can you find the leads going to the CDS? If so, install the battery, then put one lead from you meter on the negative side from the battery holder and the other on each side of the CDS. Make sure you can read 1.5 volts on your meter for DC. You should have different readings from each side, since the CDS acts as a variable resistor controlled by light. I'm out of town and won't be back to until the 16th so I can't look at my notes or diagrahms. Have you tested the meter to see if it is getting any voltage? That is easy since the meter is in the bottom close to battery compartment. I think the trick will be to get a battery cover on to drive the voltage. I have in the past used two cords with alligator clips to attach to a battery with wire soldered on both positive and negative so i can attach the clips. This would be easier than disassembling the lens to get at the meter. If the meter is not getting any voltage it is probably a connection at the CDS. I've never had to replace a CDS but I have had to re-solder connections.

Hope this helps.

George

btgc
05-24-2008, 09:02
Hi Rob, any news ? I'm on beginning of path (no juice) and see future with Sunny16 and handheld meter.

btw, great sequence of internals.

Oh, I just understood how meter activity translates to aperture setting - that little needle has to move. On mine RC it doesn't. Black wire seems strong, but I'm not sure if meter is operable, and here I have to bring multimeter home.
....
Now connected negative from battery to point where black wire connects to meter. Needle jumps! But not when white wire connected to battery...it means it need to check CdS...and at least point where second end of white wire comes out - is it at CdS in lens barrel, anyone ?

jgcraft
05-24-2008, 10:54
BTGC,

Did you look at Rick Oleson's diagrams? They pretty much let me through my restoral. I have done a lot of cameras lately and many of that vintage have wires on the battery, or meter that look good but with a gentle tug, they come off. The corrosion seems to hold them in place but the contact is no longer there.

Look forward to hearing your progress reports.

George

btgc
05-24-2008, 13:49
George, thanks on pointing to Rick's resource, will check - completely dropped out of mind.

When I wrote before, I touched contact on meter with screwdriver - it's good and connection were made to wire before soldering point, so this one shouldn't be problem. Connecting battery with CdS throws needle left. So what's between - I think "A" mode switch, so will check diagrams.

RobScumaci
05-24-2008, 19:49
I'm still kinda stuck. The needle moves freely on my meter and the meter looks remarkably good, but I'm having difficulty determining if it actually works and if juice is getting to it. Next time I work on it I'm going to investigate the CDS.

RobScumaci
07-13-2008, 19:57
I ordered some foam to reseal my Oly from Jon Goodman tonight (interslice on ebay). Of course, he sent me a pdf version of instructions on how to do the work on the Oly 35RC about 5 mins after my order. Thanks Jon! He said to say hello to all of you that know him.

I also ordered some new camera leather from www.cameraleather.com, but I'm not going to tell you what kind until I post the pics, but it ain't black!

Rob

jgcraft
07-17-2008, 16:00
Rob,

Looking forward to see the results. Seems like the electronics on these are usually the worst part. I'll bet the soldered joint on the CDS is bad if the meter reacts to any voltage. Good luck!

George

RobScumaci
10-27-2008, 18:58
Well, no luck getting the meter to work, but I resealed and reskinned her:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3292/2980418594_c400039089.jpg

AzzA
10-27-2008, 19:35
looks very neat mate.
nice work indeed :)

jgcraft
10-28-2008, 04:24
Sometimes you just have to take what you have and make the best of it. The re-skin looks good and you can still use it. Good work!

George

eric
10-28-2008, 08:23
I've got an RC sitting in my car collecting bits and pieces of drive-through french fry bits. Looks okay, got a little bump by the winder area. IF you need one to clobber for parts, shoot me a PM. Will trade for ummm...whatever.....

RicardoD
10-28-2008, 09:11
Rob,

What's your lighting setup for the photos on your webpage? Do you have one of those product lighting boxes?

radiocemetery
10-28-2008, 17:23
Nice work Rob. It's a beauty. What is your leather? Is that the kidskin?

Steve

RobScumaci
10-31-2008, 06:57
Yes Steve New Walnut Natural Grain Kid Leather from Morgan Sparks at www.cameraleather.com (http://www.cameraleather.com/)


Ricardo, that is a home made light box. You take a decent size cardboard box, cut holes in the top and sides and cover with opaque white paper. One large piece of white oaktag curving from the back to the bottom takes care of the background and bottom without a seam. I shoot a handheld manual controlled flash through the top or side.