View Full Version : OLY 35 EC... manual/advice

12-10-2007, 05:17
Hi y'all,
Just got an Oly 35 EC, previously used as 'display' in an opticians! Battery compartment is quite clean, with only a few tiny specs of rust on the contacts (a cotton q-tip swab and white vinegar cleared this).

I did a quick test with a couple of LR44 cells in one of the battery chambers and in the other I just stuffed a wad of aluminium foil, and the small orange LED lit up when I pressed the shutter half way down.

The only problem I encountered here: the shutter works BUT it only opens and closes very slowly (maybe becauce I 'borrowed' the LR44 cells from another cam, so they weren't new, also the diameter of the LR44 is quite a bit smaller than the battery slot, so I can't be sure that a good/snug contact was made).

I'd like to ask any EC owners (past & present) if you could give me an idea of what exactly do the numbers on the aperture (?) ring mean:

Looking from above the numbers (from left to right) are:

GN ft 23 32 45 65 90 180

Are these Guide Numbers for 'Flash use'?
What does the "" (dot) signify.. is this 'auto'?

Many thanks,

Chris AKA goldfinga888

12-10-2007, 05:42
Yeah you turn it to the guide number of your flash and the camera adjusts the aperture depending on the distance to your subject. Slick. I never figured out what the dot means.

12-10-2007, 09:44
Congratulations on getting that particular EC!
Instead of that one I've just picked up what the description stated was a worker to find it still has corroded batteries in! In addition the description of the pristine cosmetic condition didn't include the dent round the strap eyelet that has produced a slight top ripple!
But the battery issue is one of interest to me, although at this stage I think the camera goes onto the shelf with a label of 'to do'!

12-10-2007, 14:02
Hey feenej and jesse1dog, thanks for the replies...

What I really like a lot about this EC is how 'solid' it feels for its size. I had some time to find out a little more info about this particular 'lil beauty' and I'm really hoping it'll do just what it was made to do! (whether or not the final pic is any good - well that's adifferent story! LOL, but like the saying goes "a bad workman always blames his tool")

Can't find anything about the 'dot' on the GN ft scale.. perhaps it's for a 3 digit figure between 90 and 180, but wouldn't fit if it was put on the ring???

One thing is for sure, I know I'll definitely be using a flash.... the majority of the pics I seem to take are 'indoors'.. will just have to rummage around my gear to see if I've got a flash with a GN number that appears on the EC... if not.. another excuse to go eeeeebay-ing hehehe (even as I type now, I've just been notified that I've 'won' a bid for an RC + pen EE3!!)

12-10-2007, 14:31
You will love the RC - probably after you have done the seals on it.
I think it is chunkier than the EC, uses cheaper batteries, and doesn't have all 'that mess' on the bottom plate!
I've just spent the weekend doing a reseal on my RC using Jon Goodman materials..

12-10-2007, 16:17
I got a kit from Jon as well! Great guy, really patient and communicative: I've been writing to him about resealing all my gear.!

12-23-2007, 18:17
Re: batteries/cells..

I used a couple of fresh LR44 cells (+ the wad of aluminum foil)... and the camera works a treat!

The shutter speeds are quite noticeable/audible in different light situations.

Have a film in now (along with 2 other cams also with film in!) hopefully will finish them all off these next couple of weeks.

My RC hasn't arrived yet... with the holiday period, hopefully it'll arrive in a couple of weeks.

After having to spend most of the day doing the almost last minute xmas shopping and feeling like ****, I went online, saw an ECR ("excellent & good working condition") and put in a bid - and to my surprise, it was mine at 10 bucks! (okay the post cost me another $17) but overall, compared to 'going prices' here in Europe, I reckon I've got quite a good buy.

I'm really liking the EC... the zone focus thing isn't such a worry (I've used an Oly Trip 35 a lot)... but I'm very much looking forward to having the ECR with the 'rangefinder' capability!


12-24-2007, 04:08
Hi Goldinga

Just looked at the GN scale on mu EC - its in metres.
The markings go 28 40 56.
I think your dot corresponds to my 40m mark - 28 is about 90ft.

12-27-2007, 18:37
Your GN in metres? Hhhmm.. I wonder if there are any other differences?

12-28-2007, 13:33
The focus ring is graduated in m as well.
And my EC doesn't work - possibly 2 differences!

Got the bottom plate off and can see a lot of corrosion with the battery leads - 'one came off in my hand Mum!'.

Kim Coxon
12-28-2007, 13:46
I can't help with the EC, but the manual for the EC2 is here if it is of any help.



12-28-2007, 16:48
Thanks Kim!
(Haven't been able to find out exactly what the 'improvements' are from the EC to the EC2 yet.. )

Jesse: let us know if you're EC works after getting the wires+soldering done!

Cheers all!

12-28-2007, 19:27
What is the original battery(ies) for this camera? Are we sure LR44 will work properly?

12-28-2007, 19:41
The guide numbers are the power ratings for various flashes. I think the dot was for 120, they ran out of room for digits.

12-29-2007, 08:51
Original batteries????
Not sure.. I don't have the original user manual - and neither have I been able to find on on line yet - except buying one, but the cost of that + postage would be more than I paid for my EC :-(

Interestingly though (methinks), in the user manual for the EC2 (thanks to Kim for the link above) it says:

Haven't been able to find what the original recommended batteries are yet (can't seem to find enough research/info-search time at the moment during this festive period)

BUT interestingly (me thinks)... in the EC2 user manual (thanks to Kim for the downloads).. it says:

EC2 - "Power Source: 2 pieces, 1.4v Mercury battery HM-M type Mallory RM-640 or equivalent"

(The user manual for the ECR states the same requirements)

The 2 LR44 batteries that I'm using seem to be doing just fine - at the moment I've shot about half a roll (APX100 B&W which I will develop at home - Rodinol). I'll scan the negs and Digital PP using PSCS. In my case, If the exposures aren't perfect, I'll be just as happy if they're under-exposed as I find it easier to DPP when the negs aren't washed-out.

From an 'electrical' point of view, I certainly would be interested to know what, if any, might be the detriments to the system. Just to be on the safe side I actually 'disconnect' the batteries when I'm not using the cam - I simply stick a piece of plastic between the terminal and contact (the kind of small strip of plastic one finds with battery operated gatdgets/toys which says 'remove to operate')... I wouldn't advise anyone else to do what I do in this case: you'll end up being called a 'mania-detail-freak' like me :-)

12-29-2007, 09:26
You will love the RC - probably after you have done the seals on it.
I think it is chunkier than the EC, uses cheaper batteries, and doesn't have all 'that mess' on the bottom plate!
I've just spent the weekend doing a reseal on my RC using Jon Goodman materials..

Jesse... The RC is a nice little thang! ;-)

Mine needs a bit of a clean (VF) and new seals. The focus ring is quite smooth in motion (practically loose compared to some of my other RF's).. can't move the aperture ring without moving the focus ring (big hands doh!)... Holding 'B' setting and looking through the lens - perfectly clean (very cool!) and aperture blades glide in and out of f stops. :)

Two things though:
Mine has obviously taken a 'bump' in its lifetime: there's a small dent (1-1.5mm) just in the corner above the pc-sync socket (but no crack in the chrome finish), and a little more noticeable: the gap where the wind-on lever travels has 'squashed' down a bit which has caused some scrape-lines on the wind-on lever (albeit hidden until the lever is actioned 'out')... I've managed to carefully 'prise' the gap open, enough so that the wind-on lever doesn't rub anymore.

In this case I think I prefer the 'plastic wheel' wind-on rather than this lever. Also the space in the gap seems awfully prone to possible dust entry.

Anyway.. What I'll need to do is get the top off!... I've been looking for a service/repair manual just to make sure, but I think to remove the top I'll need to:

Remove the screw just by the strap lug.
Remove the screw just by the PC-sync socket.
Remove the rewind lever.
Remove the Shutter Speed dial.
Remove the Self-Timer lever.
Then.. be careful incase anything falls out when I remove the top!


12-29-2007, 09:31

If you can read German you can try this:


I seem to remember that Shadowfox had an EC, and he posted about it before. Suprised he hasn't posted about this yet.

And if you're thinking of servicing an RC try here:


12-29-2007, 10:17
Hi Chris
About the RC - no need to remove the rewind handle, it comes off with the top.
Also remember that the self timer screw has an anticlockwise screw thread.
Check the position of the dust cover under the cocking handle. It is an odd spring affair that slots into two screws one at each end. Mine had come out at the front (lens side) end. No need to remove these screws, just unloose and slip the spring under and tighten - do one end at a time. When you have the top off this will become obvious!
Incidentally the shutter firing button will drop out when you remove the top - and you do really need it!
I agree about the aperture ring. I have got a small button fixed on the bottom of mine - turned up by the next door neighbour and araldited into a small hole drilled in the ring!

Now to the EC/ECR. Google Olympus 35ECR or 35 ECR, can't remember which, and an ECR hanbook is there as a pdf file.
The LR44 are 1.5 volts (?) and alkaline, so they will drop voltage to 1.3/4 and then keep dropping. That makes exposure a bit difficult. There is an equivalent to the 640 available and possibly worth having, but at 4 each, and you need two. However that isn't quite as bad as it sounds because they will power the EC and ECR so you only need one set unless you want to use both cameras at the same time.

Now to my EC!
Had a 'right afternoon'!
The +ve lead to the battery box was corroded along its complete length I discovered. The plastic battery holder seems to be fixed in place with a 'rubber' glue and had to be prised out. Replacing the wire was 'interesting' and I have too long a length but it has all gone back with a little poking. I checked that the batteries in my ECR were sort of working and then put them in the EC - cocked the shutter - and it opened for the first time I have had the camera.
It looks as if I might have a dead camera alive again. The amber light didn't come on but that is probably an indication that the batteries are low - well, I can kid myself that's the case!

12-29-2007, 11:13
Thanks ColinW!
My German is a bit rusty but using freetranslator.com helps!
(curiously the batteries quoted are 2x1.35v in the EC2 it's 2x1.4v)

The diagram on RickOlsen's site is much better for my 'visual' mind!

Good stuff!


If you can read German you can try this:


I seem to remember that Shadowfox had an EC, and he posted about it before. Suprised he hasn't posted about this yet.

And if you're thinking of servicing an RC try here:


12-29-2007, 11:20
When I put the first set of batteries + wad of aluminium in my EC, the light came on fine, but I realised that the batteries were half-gone, when I put a fresh set in.
With the half used set the aperture blades opened slowish, but closed light a long slow yawn :O

The thought had occured to me about fitting some kind of 'button' to the aperture ring.. there's one on my Hi-Matic 7 and Revue 400SE.

Not only that... maybe fitting some kind of button (or making a slip-on ring, with a lever for the focusing ring - I first thought about doing that for my GSN and GTN)

... oops, can I mention other RFs here????