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Herman Abdullah
08-10-2007, 02:23
Hi.

I just brought back to life my dad's Oly 35SP Silvered.
It used to take my photos when I was a baby to kid.
Now it is my time to take care of it.

:.Ive sent it to a camera w/shop to clean the fungused lens and etc.
.still i can see fungus somewhere at the lens..it was not fully clean i guess.

I noticed that without the battery, the Auto mode is not functioning, so i need to set it manually.

My qs are:

1. What is the standard correct exposure in daylight (outdoor) ?
2. What is the standard correct exposure at nite (with manual flash)?

My standard speed would be 1/30-60 for this time being...i just need the aperture reading to get the momentum...

Thanks in advance guys.

payasam
08-10-2007, 02:55
Herman, outdoors in good light, you'll do well with speeds of 1/125 sec. or faster, both shutter speed and aperture determined by film speed. With flash, you'll generally want the highest speed that synchronises, and aperture will depend on the guide number of your flash gun and on distance between flash and subject. Almost all flashes have tables or other calculators. A quick Web search for "sunny 16" should give you the basics of daylight work.

Trius
08-10-2007, 06:00
Often the effects fungus cannot be completely eradicated. The fungus may be gone, but if it has been present for a long time, it may have etched the glass or at least removed the coating. You may not see any effect on photos unless it is heavy or under extreme enlargements.

I suggest getting a battery to help you with exposure. You can use a zinc-air hearing aid battery (1.4 volt) though you will have to use a small o-ring to help seat that battery, as they are smaller than the original mercury battery.

Do not use a silver-oxide 1.5v battery such as the SR44, 357/303. If you do, the light meter will be off 2 to 3 stops. You can have the camera modified to accept the SR44W/357-303 batteries, but given the condition of the lens, you would want to make sure the results you get from the lens warrant investing more money in it.

A 35SP in condition is a marevlous camera. Everyone's SO surprised I said that. :D

Herman Abdullah
08-10-2007, 11:51
>>Hi Payasam, thanks i just forgot about the sunny 16 rule-silly me. I'll try that
1/125 + f16..

about the flash, this sunpak 9000ml just give a full blast, the calculator doesnt work, nevermind i'll try and error for that..


>> Trius , ive ordered 2 set of Z625PX 1.4v Zinc-Air replacement for Mercury PX625, will it works? (ordered 2 as i dont know how long its gonna last)

Fyi, my last time holding this camera was 20 years ago, and it was a whole day school trips to museum and national statue, where at the end of the day i found out that there was no film inside the camera..frustrated until now.

payasam
08-10-2007, 12:28
Herman, with a manual flash the calculator (a printed table or a rotating ring or rings) is only meant to show you what aperture you must use at different distances with film of various speeds. The flash will fire at full power.

Herman Abdullah
08-11-2007, 07:08
These are the fotos in sequence. Kindly, i need some comment on the lens sharpness or any fungus symptom.

Please rate 1 (lens problem) and 2.5 (lens so-so) 5 (lens in good condition).

if you rated 1 and 2.5 please give some feedback.

thanks again.

julio1fer
08-11-2007, 11:25
The first image is completely out of focus. The other two seem sharp and show no obvious problems. Fungus damage would show up mainly with backlighted subjects against the sun, as excessive flare.

If you are going to use flash with a manual flash (not the thyristor type, which adjusts flash duration to match a predefined aperture), you may want to use the Flashmatic mode of the 35 SP.

Look at the aluminum ring in the lens, the one with the aperture figures (1.7 to 16) and the red A. To the left, past the A mark, you'll notice a series of black and green figures. Those are the guide numbers (GN) for using flash, in meters (black) or feet (green).

A small typical flash unit will have something like a GN of 20-25, in meters (black series); you should find the GN in the flash specs or you may find it in the Internet.

Set the GN of your flash in the red mark, and set shutter speed as you prefer to get the amount of ambient light you want, besides the light from the flash. Faster speed, less ambient light. Then, when you focus, the aperture is automatically set to the correct one for the focused distance.

payasam
08-11-2007, 11:40
Looking at the third picture, Herman, I'd say that your lens is OK. I expect you'll find Julio's explanation of "Flashmatic" very useful.

Herman Abdullah
08-11-2007, 21:27
phewwww...relief to hear that my lens in good confition...ok, now let settle the flashmatic problematic: my battery is completely die, still waiting for the replacement unit.

I dont know if the automatic aperture is gonna work without the battery, cant wait to bring this camera to action...

ah! ive added another 2 fotos above..the b&w. remove the earlier 2 after the feedbacks above.

3rd party opinion/view is always important..thanks again guys.

payasam
08-12-2007, 01:24
"Fungus damage would show up mainly with backlighted subjects against the sun, as excessive flare."

None of the pictures shown was taken in these circumstances.

Herman Abdullah
08-12-2007, 08:35
ok, i ll do that..got the wrong image in..or probably i should avoid taking such fotos if it is confirm to have fungus...

get back later..cheers.

julio1fer
08-12-2007, 12:10
...ok, now let settle the flashmatic problematic: my battery is completely die, still waiting for the replacement unit.

Flashmatic is mechanical and it will work without a battery.

Autoexposure, alas, needs a battery.

Herman Abdullah
08-12-2007, 19:29
let me get it right now:

1. my flash GN is 12-24mm @100
2. At the back of my SUNPAK 9000ML flash there are 2 slider level :

[a- ISO and Aperture lslider evel (the mark is at f5.6), b- Flash Meter and FT slider level]

Now,

1st>>The flash instruction says, i have to always pull the ISO slider level below the film speed, meaning if i use ISO 200, i have to pull the mark to ISO 100.

2nd>>Then I have to calculate the distance of the subject from my camera, let say 5 Meters, then i have to pull the flash Meter level according to the distance of the subject.

FYI, at the Flash slider level for Meter and FT it got this mark= T=85mm, S=50mm, W1=35mm, W2=28mm

3rd>>Ok , let say i choose the W1=35mm

4th>>Then I have to check the nearest aperture *reading at the ISO / Aperture level on top of the W1=35 mark.

5th>>Then set the aperture ring at the camera according to the *reading above, and shoot.

Is that the way?
__________________________________________________ ______

next qs:

my flash GN is [email protected] , so how to apply this formula to it?

A=GN/D , which no should i choose 12 or 24?

rgds.

flashmatic mathematic problematic systematic..:-)

shadowfox
08-13-2007, 13:53
Herman, I would suggest don't even bother with the flash and use the 1.7 max aperture on the camera to do available light photography.

The camera is a legacy from your father, right? Then get some fast B/W film and shoot away indoors, outdoors, and create memorable images of those dear to you and your father.

The only cameras that are well suited for flash use are digital ones, in which you can experiment without paying the cost of film. IMHO.

The 35 SP is a very good camera, you should enjoy it a lot :D

Cheers,
Will


let me get it right now:

1. my flash GN is 12-24mm @100
2. At the back of my SUNPAK 9000ML flash there are 2 slider level :

[a- ISO and Aperture lslider evel (the mark is at f5.6), b- Flash Meter and FT slider level]

Now,

1st>>The flash instruction says, i have to always pull the ISO slider level below the film speed, meaning if i use ISO 200, i have to pull the mark to ISO 100.

2nd>>Then I have to calculate the distance of the subject from my camera, let say 5 Meters, then i have to pull the flash Meter level according to the distance of the subject.

FYI, at the Flash slider level for Meter and FT it got this mark= T=85mm, S=50mm, W1=35mm, W2=28mm

3rd>>Ok , let say i choose the W1=35mm

4th>>Then I have to check the nearest aperture *reading at the ISO / Aperture level on top of the W1=35 mark.

5th>>Then set the aperture ring at the camera according to the *reading above, and shoot.

Is that the way?
__________________________________________________ ______

next qs:

my flash GN is [email protected] , so how to apply this formula to it?

A=GN/D , which no should i choose 12 or 24?

rgds.

flashmatic mathematic problematic systematic..:-)

Herman Abdullah
08-13-2007, 19:41
Hi guys.

Ive tried and error on the flash unit.

Now i understand completely how the flashmatic work, brilliant!

About the B&W, i plan to that as well, thanks Will, your suggestion is really touching.

I should start photographing my dad now, he would be surprise to see his 70s buddy back to life..

TQVM for your response and feedback.

Come i show you my 35SP..as attached.

shadowfox
08-14-2007, 08:06
Herman, that's a handsome SP you got there :)
I've never seen the half-case for the SP, very elegant, must have come with it when your father purchased it long time ago.

Herman Abdullah
08-14-2007, 19:27
It was there ages before i was born...it looks naked without the half case.

oh yeah,, and i have decided to operate this camera fully manual - B&W only with Kodak C41 400..

Make fully use of the f1.7 aperture...

I'll come back to you guys for advise and improvement..:-)

And i like this forum and site very much..