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mw_uio
12-27-2006, 12:59
Today, I looked in a shop and found a Olympus OM-4T in champange in excellent shape, a slight dent on the prism. Inside super clean. The lens on it is a 50mm F1.4. Glass is super clean. The price on it for $400 USD. Is this a good deal, or is this high? It is so tempting, yet $400 on some film would go a long way also.....should I?

Cheers

Mark
Quito, EC

zuikomatt
12-27-2006, 13:03
I received my OM4Ti today, price was 177Euro
:D

Trius
12-27-2006, 15:14
Mark: How big or deep is the dent? It's not a totally bad price, and assuming the lens is in very good condition or better, that adds a bit of value. The champagne bodies don't bring as much as the black bodies, since the finish doesn't wear as gracefully as the black paint models.

I would see if they would take less. You are right that the $400 would buy a lot of film ... or be a good start on an RF. :D

zuikomatt
12-27-2006, 15:28
After playing little bit with my new OM4Ti, I discovered, that I like it very much, seems to be a great camera.
My perception of it is little different from OM1 and OM2, not exactly shure why:-)
Is 400USD to good price? I think, is worth it, but you can wait and find better price,I'm shure you will.

freeranger
12-27-2006, 15:53
I'm just about to have a pair of OMs (1 and 2n) cla'd. Don't suppose you know anyone in B'lava, zuikomatt, who would do a competent job? From searching the web there is a guy in Hamburg who is well recommended, but if I could get it done locally I would. I'd love an OM-4. especially at 177 EUR. Mark, B+H have an OM4T in B+ condition for 700 EUR, so from a European's perspective, yours looks like quite a good buy.

mw_uio
12-27-2006, 16:40
The lens is mint, smooth focus. The dent on the prism is so minimal. It is a light camera compared to a F3. As you see my gear listed , I really do not need anything. My F3 is my favourite and I like all the features it has and the 80/20 metering I like alot. I really think some film would be better or a 50 for my F3.

Cheers

Mark
Quito, EC

back alley
12-27-2006, 17:49
or perhaps a rangefinder?

;)

scottgee1
12-27-2006, 19:13
I'll add my two pesos to the discussion.

Last year, I started a thread here based on the question "Which SLR is most like a rangefinder?" We had a lot of fun with it and I learned a lot.

First, Maitani, who designed the OM series, was an avowed Leica enthusiast and brought that sensibility to his products. See:

http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/concepts.htm

for an overview.

I ended up acquiring an OM4T. It's a wonderful camera in many ways. With an Olympus '2' series or Maxwell screen, the viewfinder is splendid -- big, clear and easy to focus, even with eyeglasses! Yet the camera itself is quite compact. Spot and mult-spot metering can be done with the touch of a button. Or you can choose to set the highlight/shadow on a particular tone. In a hurry? Set it to automatic, choose your aperture and shoot away.

As to price, I certainly don't know the market in Quito. That would be a reasonable price for one in the U.S. in the condition you describe.

Have fun!/ScottGee1

sevres_babylone
12-27-2006, 19:13
The OM-4T is my favourite OM. I have the OM-1, and had an OM-2 till it broke. I can't say whether $400 is worth it. But I would not value the lens too highly, firstly because there tend to be a glut of 50s around, and secondly because there are variations in the 50s which Zuiko experts could describe better than me. I know I like my 1.8s better than my 1.4, especially a newer one I picked up for $39 new at one point, and there isn't that much of a speed difference. In other words, try and figure out you might be wiling to pay for a body, and don't sweat the lens. I would wonder what happened to the camera to get a dent in it. Maybe it was one of Eugene Richards'. I remember reading that he loved the OMs, but rugged as they are, had some problems when people slammed doors on them.

grizzz
12-27-2006, 19:18
I have an OM2n and love it. I would also love a 4. Since you have an F3 you and need a 50 I would suggest getting the 50 for it, buying a nice Canon Canonet and some film. Your F3 will be happy and you will have film for both :).

mw_uio
12-27-2006, 20:08
Yeah that does sound better.....does a Canon Canonet have 'aperture proirity'
functionality? I am going to back off on the OM-4T, look for a 50 for the F3 possibly, but get some more film. I do know in a corner of the city that there is a black Yashica 35 Electo GT, but I need a adapter to put in a normal battery in it to test it.....will see what happens.....but in need of some film...more chrome.


Cheers ;)

Mark
Quito, EC

rpinchbeck
12-27-2006, 20:41
OK, really, really dumb question. Time sort of stopped for me with regards to the Oly system at the OM2sp. What is the difference between the OM4, 4T, and 4Ti?

Cheers,

Russ Pinchbeck

rpinchbeck
12-27-2006, 21:02
Material and color, basically. The T and Ti models have titanium covers.
The T is champagne, the Ti black. Om4 came only in black ? (not sure about
that).

Check out www.keh.com they have all three, currently (with pictures).

This is my T:

http://ferider.smugmug.com/photos/118120269-O.jpg

Got it last week as a sibbling to my OM-1 and 2.

Cheers,

Roland.

Thanks Roland,

Even though I am curious about the OM4/4T/4Ti, I'm still a OM2s kind of dude. No doubt the 4 has a whole bag full of usefull goodies, I just need the spot meter capability of the OM2s in manual mode. More than that would be just, well, folly.

Cheers,

Russ

plummerl
12-27-2006, 21:12
Material and color, basically. The T and Ti models have titanium covers.
The T is champagne, the Ti black. Om4 came only in black ? (not sure about
that).

...

Cheers,

Roland.
Actually Roland, to be accurate, the T version was only available in the USA. The Ti version was for the rest of the world. Both the T and Ti can be found in black and champagne. The only difference is the label.

back alley
12-27-2006, 21:17
i think my next body will be the 2s.
one spot reading is enough for me.

Trius
12-28-2006, 05:34
Differences between the OM-2S(SP) and OM-4:

"This camera can be regarded as a link between the OM-2n and the OM-4, or as a semi-professional, cheaper version of the OM-4 targeted at the serious amateur, because Program Mode and slower Motor Drive operation aren't exactly features professionals are waiting for. Compared to the OM-4 it misses the 1/2000 sec. shutter speed, the 4 minutes Auto Exposure (2 minutes on the OM-2SP) and the sophisticated multi-spot measuring. Spot measuring on the OM-2SP has been simplified to single spot measuring that is linked to Manual Mode operation. Center-weighted metering is not available in Manual Mode."

In addition, the OM-2S is regarded as a bit less reliable, long-term, than the OM-4.

kshapero
12-28-2006, 05:44
Actually Roland, to be accurate, the T version was only available in the USA. The Ti version was for the rest of the world. Both the T and Ti can be found in black and champagne. The only difference is the label.
You are correct but the T and Ti had better battery retention. So there actually is a real difference.
Had a Black OM4T. It was stolen in 1992. DRAT!

Trius
12-28-2006, 07:01
More than a few OM-4s were updated to the T/Ti circuitry, reducing battery drain to the same level as the T/Ti. On an OM-4, if you turn the battery check feature on (using fresh batteries) and leave it on, the check light will go out in 30 seconds if it has the updated circuit. The old circuit ate batteries even when not in use.

shadowfox
12-28-2006, 11:02
To further whet your apetite, here's one from my collection, both my wife and I use OM-4.

If you be patient, you can get a good OM-4 for around 200 dollars with the updated circuitry that doesn't drain the battery too quickly, but then again, a pair of Silver Oxide SR44 cost only 2.50 dollars.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/81/280090276_4d6daa3038.jpg

skipwilliams
12-28-2006, 12:01
Unless it's very clean and has had a full CLA, I'd pass. Esp with a dented prism, $400 is too much, IMO. To me, the 1.4 is worth $40-50, but only if it's a high-serial number lens. Champagne bodies are getting pretty long in the tooth now and I wouldn't buy one unless it had had a full, and I mean full, CLA, with new seals under the prism, etc.

You should be able to find nice Champ. 4t's for $150, add $180 for a first class CLA. Factor in also whether it's got a 2-series screen, which would increase the value by $30-80, depending on your value of that screen.

Skip


Today, I looked in a shop and found a Olympus OM-4T in champange in excellent shape, a slight dent on the prism. Inside super clean. The lens on it is a 50mm F1.4. Glass is super clean. The price on it for $400 USD. Is this a good deal, or is this high? It is so tempting, yet $400 on some film would go a long way also.....should I?

Cheers

Mark
Quito, EC

zuikomatt
12-28-2006, 12:10
I'm just about to have a pair of OMs (1 and 2n) cla'd. Don't suppose you know anyone in B'lava, zuikomatt, who would do a competent job?

No, I don't know.
Only repairman , I know, is on Palackého, near Prolaika, but I know nothing about him:-(.
Spyderman has some experiencis with OM bodies, but he'll take responsibility only for his cameras.

Trius
12-28-2006, 12:46
Yes, Welcome to you Skip! I'm glad you're here, because you know a helluva lot more than me about OMs, and Olympus in general.

I've noted that high SN 50/1.4s are sometimes going for more than what Skip has stated. That's just the market at work, but at any given time a high SN 50/1.4 may go for $60-80 on that site. Other days, you might get lucky and get one for $40 or even less. Me, I'm looking for the 50/1.2 @ $50. ;)

Edit: 260067929605 went for $86.77USD. Am I right or am I right? :D

freeranger
12-28-2006, 16:32
No, I don't know.
Only repairman , I know, is on Palackého, near Prolaika, but I know nothing about him:-(.
Spyderman has some experiencis with OM bodies, but he'll take responsibility only for his cameras.

Thanks Martin. They are off to Germany then. Tomorrow, because for some reason the PO at Aupark will no longer accept camera-sized packages to post, :( maybe they will tomorrow...who knows? I don't mind shelling out for the CLA because they were free and, apart from the sticky seals, are cosmetically perfect. I've replaced seals on rangefinders before but would not know where to start with the mirror dampening on an SLR.

Welcome Skip, nice to see you!

PeterL
12-28-2006, 23:59
Hi,
Heh, seems like the Olympus Mailing List is moving here :)
The OM-4T(i) is my favourite camera ever. Not that I've used too many, but after seeing that camera and lusting for it for a while, there wasn't too much I could hold and not be disappointed. The weight, size , lenses, spot metering system and viewfinder (with a 2-series focussing screen) combined are unique and brilliant. My 90/f2 macro used to be glued on it, then it was the 50/1.4, but now my focussing is off so it needs maintenance. I'll stick to my Zorki & Leica iiic for a while.

Peter.

Trius
12-29-2006, 04:35
Peter: There seem to be fewer OT posts than on the list ... or at least there is an OT section that one can ignore! :D

Uncle Bill
12-29-2006, 05:02
I had an OM-4 but it developed expensive shutter issues so I parted company with it in a trade with my Tech for an OM-1md, and I got a motordrive to go with it. Its when the repair almost cost the same as what you paid for the body.

I want an OM-4ti, the metering is brilliant good and I miss that. When I got cash......

giellaleafapmu
12-29-2006, 05:12
Today, I looked in a shop and found a Olympus OM-4T in champange in excellent shape, a slight dent on the prism. Inside super clean. The lens on it is a 50mm F1.4. Glass is super clean. The price on it for $400 USD. Is this a good deal, or is this high? It is so tempting, yet $400 on some film would go a long way also.....should I?

Cheers

Mark
Quito, EC

Hi,

I have an Olympus OM4 (not the T one...) and it is a great camera, the price however could be a bit lower, at least that was true for me in Bogota' (not too far away from where you are compared to other people writing in this newsgroup).

Since I bought mine not too long ago and I had the chance to look at many ones before buying I would recommend you check the slow times in automatic. I am not sure why but almost all the cameras I saw measured properly and were precise in manual mode but made slow times in automatic veryyyyyyy slooooooowwwwwww....yahwn! A repairman told me that this is a common problem and even adviced me not to bother but I could use this "defect" to ask for a discount :)

The only real situation in which this could be a problem is if you like to put your camera on the floor of a church aiming to the roof and would like to have times in the 5--10 seconds range but I found out that with some bracketing (done by changing the iso-setting) I could get usually at least one reasonable exposure even with my camera which indeed has the problem I mentioned.

Giella lea Fapmu

scottgee1
12-29-2006, 07:08
Are you sure you tried with film ? I have never had this problem on the
various OM bodies that I tried, but when you play with the camera in
automatic mode without film, it slows down the shutter by several stops
since the OTF measurement is calibrated towards light reflection
from film (instead of the black pressure plate).

Just a thought,

Roland..

Giella, my experience and comment is the same as Roland's. Put in a roll of film and the "problem" will go away.

If I were you, I would NOT take an Olympus (or any other camera) to that repairman. :mad:

ScottGee1

Trius
12-29-2006, 07:23
Roland and Scott are correct. Yes, there could be a problem, but without film the OTF metering is using the black film pressure plate for reading the exposure, which is quite different than the reflectance of film. Also note that the reading before exposure is read off the shutter curtain, which has a pattern of white rectangles on it. This pattern is designed to provide centre weighted (I think) metering and exposure information in the viewfinder. I'm not sure how the spot metering works with the pattern.

Whenever I shoot in very low light with an OM-2, I am sometimes surprised at the length of the exposure, but the exposure generally is correct on film.

giellaleafapmu
12-29-2006, 09:21
Giella, my experience and comment is the same as Roland's. Put in a roll of film and the "problem" will go away.

If I were you, I would NOT take an Olympus (or any other camera) to that repairman. :mad:

ScottGee1

Mmmmmh, that's an interesting statement and it is probably what happened. In any case I have a few little doubts.

Let's say that the camera measures light from the reflection on the curtains' pattern she (for some reason I tend to call cameras by "she" instread of "it") doesn't know whether there is film or not. I then shoot (I cannot change this one for "take a photograph" or "expose film") and she measures from a pressure plate instead of a film. Could that give a 5x change in the exposure only for a long exposure even when I am pointing at a greycard? Maybe it could if the camera knows about reciprocity low but it seems to me a bit strange... Also, why should this happen only from time to time (here I don't have a real test or a statistic but I think this is what it happens with my camera, I shall check more carefully)? Of course, I tend to believe you more than anyone else (expecially since I never had any problem with real photographs) but it sounds a bit strange that "that repairman" would have said something so badly wrong since he did repair several cameras of mine and I always got very clean works for which I had never anything to regret (he is an official deler and repairman of Olympus by the way) and also since I bought the camera from a friend and I just gave it to him asking about the problem without even saying that I was considering buying...

Anyway, whatever the case, I already have the camera which in fact gives to me no practical problem and, even if I (and or the repairman) am wrong, it makes no harm to check the slow speeds (mmmmh, all right, with film inside :rolleyes: ) before buying.

Giella lea Fapmu

PeterL
12-30-2006, 04:21
Oh, talking about long exposures reminds me... I have a pinhole body cap with a hole of 0.1mm. It's actually too small to be a perfect pinhole. I measured the distance to the film plane and it's about 5cm, so I tend to call it my 50/f512 lens. I could use that power of 2 to calculate the exposure time, but instead I just rely on the OM-4T's auto-exposure. It comes out just perfect on slide film ! I once doubled the auto-exposure time to compensate for the Schwarzschild effect but the picture that the camera had timed came out much better. Very impressive metering system.

Peter.

Archie
12-30-2006, 05:19
well I have a rather basic question, but maybe a OM-4 can help with that.

I'm shooting a lot of concerts and opera stuff in the last time. Well I'm using a Minolta XE for that purpose, which has center weighted metering. It's always a lot of guessing and experience (which I do not really have) to get the right exposure. So does a spot meter really help with such situations? Well if that would be the case I'm thinking about switching from Minolta to Olympus. And the camera of the choice would be a OM-4T(i).

Trius
12-30-2006, 07:24
giellaleafapmu: An incorrect battery could also be in play here. If someone put in something other than a high-drain silver-oxide battery (e.g., not an SR44W or 375/303), then yes, that behaviour could be expected.

The only way to REALLY tell is to either have an experienced Olympus technician check it out, or try it with film... with a proper fresh battery, of course. The only OM that doesn't use the SR44W battery type, AFAIK, is the OM-1, which used the mercury PX625.

PeterL
01-02-2007, 09:26
Archie,

I've used my OM-4T using spot metering to take pictures at a concert. The way I worked was to take a few measurements of the heads of the musicians (all causasian types, whose skin colour is pretty close to 18% grey) and then to fix my exposure at that, i.e. setting the camera to manual exposure at those values. The exposure came out great on all pictures. So yes, spot metering is a good tool in concert photography. But you can also buy a separate spot meter and to the same.


Peter.

Archie
01-03-2007, 02:19
thanks peter,

well the only problem is that you are much slower with a separate spot meter, as in concerts light situation changes really fast.
I'm using a minolta xe at the moment which is quite a huge monster. and as I'm also doing much street shooting, a smaller (and black) camera would be my preference

greentea
01-03-2007, 02:55
I would say 400$ is fair if without dent, even that dent is very slight, it makes the camera away from intact , and that makes different when you want to sale it.

ruben
01-03-2007, 03:10
Not specifically related to concerts, I would put the dilema from my personal angle.

With my Sekonic spot meter I near absolute security for any camera I may use, and obviously those without meter. A spot meter gives also a kind of "integrative" reading for tele lenses, where whatever is not spot simply doesn't.

On the other hand, and I repeat I am very subective here, the OM4 (ti or not) is the only camera with which I would dare to get out without a spot meter, whenever I need absolute security. But of course I am talking about "absolute" security and in daily life I use to use simple cheap camera readings and have a small digi in my pocket.

So in conclusion, either with a spot meter or the OM4 (ti or not), you will be dressed to kill - if this is what you are looking after.

Cheers,
Ruben

giellaleafapmu
01-03-2007, 18:00
thanks peter,

well the only problem is that you are much slower with a separate spot meter, as in concerts light situation changes really fast.


It does not in most classic music concerts... ;)

Anyway, I am not sure a separate spot meter is really that slower but I am also not sure it is much cheaper than a second hand OM-3, OM-4...

Also, most good spot meters are larger in size and look like a gun (or an hairdrier). :)

Giella lea Fapmu

Trius
01-03-2007, 18:29
Giella: You make a good point about the appearance of a spotmeter. It today's climate, carrying one can be problematic, unless it's a Weston Ranger 9.

giellaleafapmu
01-04-2007, 07:43
Giella: You make a good point about the appearance of a spotmeter. It today's climate, carrying one can be problematic, unless it's a Weston Ranger 9.

In Bogota' it could even be dangerous... :)

Giella lea Fapmu

PS
I use a Gossen Lunasix 3 with the 7 degree "almost-spot" attachment, it is not too bad but I don't think it is better than the OM-4 internal spot meter.

Trius
01-04-2007, 08:47
No, I'm sure it's not better, probably not even as good. The real advantage, as has been stated, is the OM-4's ability to store readings, plus the highlight and shadow buttons. Highly flexible, but elegantly simple.

Xmas
01-04-2007, 08:54
Trius

I thought you do a couple of high, a couple of averages and a couple of shadows and provided you remembered to memorise - shoot with a motor, click click click?

I never remember to memorise... well hardly ever...

Noel

ruben
01-04-2007, 09:14
Noel,
In my mind I do not associate my OM4 (and Ti) with machine gun shooting, although it is perfectly possible, technically. If I need to machine gun shots I will pic the OM2 (n or not) and quickly compensate the "auto" with the exposure compensating button at the top.

The multi spot metering is for me more associated with the exposure thinking state of mind. You may spot 2 or three times in manual mode, the camera will both show your spots and average the exposure, but then you should shift that averaging either for the black/dark/shadowed tones or the contrary. In my opinion you can spot 8 readings if you want but you will be messing up or playing rather than thinking.

Cheers,
Ruben

PS: I am also counscious you were just kidding in your upper post, but a militant of Maitani like me cannot afford loosing new recruits.

Xmas
01-04-2007, 12:11
Ruben

I apologise I did not mean to annoy.

I have had an OM1 from '78, it needs a new prism (foam rot),... 2x winders,... etc.

At a wedding I use 2x OM1 or 2x OM4 each with a winder, one 35mm the other 50 or 85mm and I have been known to hold down the button in continuous like an Uzi, for the whole 36. Always wanted a (2x) motor(s) for the power rewind... think of the fun I could have then.

Normally I'm forced to 400 ASA but take fast and slow primes along just in case.

Since I use chrome I normally only spot meter on the brides dress once and memorise, if I remember...

Noel

P.S. lots of the OM4 (whem new) and on were sold with a pager 'film' in the gate so that the meter worked properly...

Henryzx
01-04-2007, 17:09
Sold one of mine couple months ago for $450 with 50mm 1:1.4 - the condition is near new. You can get one on Ebay with similar price, keep in mind a slight dent on a titanium armor is a pretty "heavy" impact! ... good luck










Today, I looked in a shop and found a Olympus OM-4T in champange in excellent shape, a slight dent on the prism. Inside super clean. The lens on it is a 50mm F1.4. Glass is super clean. The price on it for $400 USD. Is this a good deal, or is this high? It is so tempting, yet $400 on some film would go a long way also.....should I?

Cheers

Mark
Quito, EC

ruben
01-05-2007, 02:14
Ruben

.....Since I use chrome I normally only spot meter on the brides dress once and memorise, if I remember...

Noel



Noel I don't follow, don't you have a "memory" button around the shutter release, lasting for up to 1 hour time?

Xmas
01-05-2007, 07:20
Ruben

Having spot metered there is too much temptation to trip the shutter, before anything else, frequently I forget to push or pull the rotary 'reset' or 'memorise' control, frequently one wants a photo of situation not a delay.

The OM1 is better for this, especially if you turn off the meter.

Noel