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st3ph3nm
11-11-2004, 21:48
So I didn't realise this from my first roll, because I'd opened the back after loading and figured that that was the problem. However, after the 2nd roll I've still got a light leak that makes a strip down the left third of the print. Oddly, though, it only happens for about a third of the photos? Anyway, going by reading other posts here, I'm fairly confident it's the back of the camera not sealing. So here's the question - sealing an Olympus XA - does anyone do a kit. Kris, can you recommend a good repairer?

Cheers,
Steve

Kris
11-11-2004, 22:21
Steve, this light leak, is it caused by the absence of light seal around the film door? It shouldn't be too hard to put new light seals by yourself although I've never tried it myself.

If you decide to send it to a technician, Camera Lane did the CLA for my Pentax K1000 for $85 but that was in 2000. Camera Clinic in Collingwood is the most recommended by most people I know but their service can be expensive.

- Replacing my 420EX flash hot shoe - $62 and took only 2 days.
- Repairing and collimating EF70-200/4L, front barrel came loose after dropped twice - 5 days turn around, $120
- Repairing BP300 grip, shutter button doesn't work after the camera dropped once - 5 days turn around and also $120! :eek: :mad:

st3ph3nm
11-11-2004, 22:58
Hi Kris,

I believe it's the film door. I don't know if there's no seal or some seal, but there seems to be more movement in the door when it's closed than in my XA2 - so I think maybe it's not sealing/closing as well as it might. I'm halfway through a roll at the moment, so I can't really diagnose much until I finish it off. That in itself was a dilemma - do I finish the roll and have some potentially nice shots ruined? Or right off the roll and open it now? I've opted for finishing, and going from there. As for sealing it myself, I'd actually like to do that if there's a way of getting the right material for the job.

Cheers,
Steve
(Still, I figure selling the XA2 will get the money for fixing the XA)

Kris
11-11-2004, 23:22
Steve, movement of film doow is quite common on some cameras (certainly not Leica) but they shouldn't be too much. Light seal does make the film door close more firmly.

Look at the body when you open the film door. Can you see black foam there? May also be on the film door around the edges. If there is no black foam, then there is no light seal.

I haven't really looked at the materials need for the job but have a look around for rather firm black foam sheets or strips in Lincraft.

Just finish the roll in the camera. The light leak may create some artistic touch to your photos. You never know.... ;)

Pherdinand
11-12-2004, 04:04
jon goodman (interslice on e-bay) sells you a nice set of light seal foams cut into thin strips plus some tools needed, for 6$ incl shipping if i'm not mistaken. They are adjesive on one side.

It'
s very easy to change the light seals. The only problem is to get rid of the sticky old foam without messing up the optics the pressure plate etc.

fraley
11-12-2004, 07:14
I took Matt's Camera's advice on how to replace light seals, as far as using isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs to clean out the old corroded seal. It worked pretty well, here's the link:

http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/light_seals/

I bought a self-sticking foam sheet from our local arts & crafts store. It's two millimeters thick, black, sticky on one side. I cut a small strip to replace the seal on a camera door hinge and it fit snuggly, not too tight. With use it will be just about right. Info:

Darice Foamies
Darice , Inc.
Strongsville, OH 44149
www.darice.com

I think it was under $2.00 USD.