Old 12-01-2010   #41
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Hi Paul. All things are equal apart from the development itself. To start with the other stuff first. I use 1min water stop bath, fix 5min and regular wash. If you mix things every time you develop a film it will add considerably to your cycle. I don´t do this. I pre-dilute the three main ingredients triple strength and measure out 3 equal measures when developing. By doing this I need not wait for the powders to dissolve, settle and cool down. If I did it would add another 15-20 minutes. The soda generates heat, and the coffee needs hot water to dissolve properly. I avoid all this. In doing so preparations are equal to regular developer. So the only prolonging event is the development itself. Agitated development is in the region of 15 minutes. A long answer, but the short answer is 8 or 9 minutes!

How long do the dissolved mixes keep? Well I´ve got compressible bottles with sodium carbonate and ascorbic acid that are in their 8th week, and two films developed a couple of days ago, you´ve seen scans from one. The coffee mix however will keep anything up to 5-6 weeks if kept cold and airtight. It works still, but I suspect mould in the mix is not desirable.

Regarding potassium bromide as a restrainer. Yes, with faster films you will need it to inhibit haze. However TMAX100 needs it not. I use a very small amount out of habit, and because my development times are calculated with PB in mind (it slows development a tad). But you need not. TMAX 400 however would need something in the region of 1.5g/l developer.

Feel free to ask more. And follow my blog link, its mostly Caffenol related.
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Old 12-02-2010   #42
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Since the outset I´ve been using Caffenol mixed from solutions I diluted two months ago. There have been a lot of discussions as to whether or not the different components will keep or not. In general its been advised against, but I find it has its benefits. You mix up large quantities to begin with, making it easier to measure up the right amounts. When developing you need not mix up the powders and wait for them to settle, and the temperatures sink to 68F. I developed two rolls the other evening, one with 8 week old pre-diluted chemicals exclusively, and the second with a new coffee solution, all else equal. I´m assuming that the coffee is the part most vulnerable to deterioration.

First roll, last frame. All old chemicals:


Second roll, second frame. New coffee mix, all else equal:


To be quite honest, I can´t see that the new coffee batch has made any difference. Both came out as expected, and very well too. Film was as usual TMAX100, 120.
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Old 12-02-2010   #43
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Sharpness is just plain sick with this kit ... Your work inspires me, Ezzie.

That kind of sharpness for abstracts is the only reason I am thinking of upgrading from a Yashica A to what? A Kowa? Bronica?
But I have to have eye level viewing. The waist level view is extremely difficult for me to coordinate with the reversed view, tilting lines due to changing hand posture, outside-the-viewfinder awareness, and such.
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Old 12-02-2010   #44
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Very inspiring thread and excellent photos ! I have to try Tmax100 in 4x5 with this ....
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Old 12-02-2010   #45
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Anyone have a good source of potassium bromide in Canada?
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Old 12-02-2010   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulfish4570 View Post
Sharpness is just plain sick with this kit ... Your work inspires me, Ezzie.

That kind of sharpness for abstracts is the only reason I am thinking of upgrading from a Yashica A to what? A Kowa? Bronica?
But I have to have eye level viewing. The waist level view is extremely difficult for me to coordinate with the reversed view, tilting lines due to changing hand posture, outside-the-viewfinder awareness, and such.
Thanks Paul. But you have to remember this is MF (OK, so´s your 124) and I´ve used f11 to f16 for most of these shots. It should be sharp(ish). I use Caffenol-C-H or C-M which is OK with respect to grain, but I´ve heard that Caffenol-C-L stand developer is even better. TMAX evidently takes very well to Caffenol.

Finder? No problem there Paul. Most, if not all, the 6x6 SLR´s have interchangeable finders, WLF, prism 45 and 90 degrees, with and without TTL metering etc. Most also have different focusing screens too. My WLF has a magnifier, where the occular can be exchanged. So you have a plethora of opportunities to fit you style.

EDIT: Me ending up with this combination. Paul, its just a stroke of luck, chance, whatever you call it. I started off with TMAX when home developing because its the film I´d used the most previously. I ended buying the Kowa because its a bit different, I like that. Rather than a Bronica or Mamiya in the same price bracket. I ended up with Caffenol, also because its different, and its home brew, DIY, whatever - I like that too. Reminds me, I need to take my DIY 6x12 camera out for a spin, and process the results in Caffenol. See how that does.
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Old 12-11-2010   #47
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Here are some shots from my first roll developed in Caffenol. I hope you don't mind me posting in your thread.

Film: Ilford Pan 100 @ ISO100

Caffenol Formula for 500mL solution:
* 6tsp Washing Soda
* 2tsp Vitamin C
* 5tsp Coffee
* 1/4tsp Kbr

15 minutes @ 25°C. Very gentle agitation every 2 minutes



I am loving the results!
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Old 12-12-2010   #48
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I don't mind at all. Please do post anything related to Caffenol. I must say your results are stunning. They exhibit what I like about Caffenol, fine grain, well controlled highlights, good shadow detail, and lovely smooth midtones. Good job!

Your recipe seems to be rather similar to the one I'm using. I'm now going to test it on Acros 100, but it would seem I have to add Pan 100 to the to do list.
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Old 12-14-2010   #49
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On the recommendation of Reinhold of Caffenol.blogspot.com I´ve now dispensed with Potassium Bromide as a restrainer for TMAX100. It doesn´t need it. My findings confirm this:

0.2g/l PB:







No PB at all:







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Old 12-14-2010   #50
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There are some very stunning scenes here! The 3rd is particularly Wow!
I'm inspired as well to get the kit together to try Caffenol.
I wonder have you tried Rollei Retro 80s yet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ezzie View Post
On the recommendation of Reinhold of Caffenol.blogspot.com I´ve now dispensed with Potassium Bromide as a restrainer for TMAX100. It doesn´t need it. My findings confirm this:

0.2g/l PB:







No PB at all:







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Old 12-14-2010   #51
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Hi Andy

I've only tried TMX and TMY-2 so far. My next film will be Acros 100. Go to Http://Caffenol.blogspot.com They've done some tests on Rollei retro films if I remember correctly
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Old 01-17-2011   #52
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Testing Acros 100 will take longer than first estimated. My Mac went belly up, the leaf shutter on my favourite lens decided to pack it in (ruining a few films). I have been able to scan a couple of negatives though, and post-processed one in Gimp on my Asus Eee 7" 702!

Acros 100, EI 100, Caffenol-C-M, 12min @ 20C


Skoger gamle kirke by Eirik0304, on Flickr

And my first impressions are none other than very impressed! The grain is different to TMX and more pleasant to my eye. On 120 film it makes for a very smooth, yet sharp negative. The midtones are even better than TMX. I've 7 more rolls in the fridge, I must get hold of more. This film is stunning.
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Old 01-28-2011   #53
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More Acros. This time re-used soup. Once first roll was out of the tank, another put into the same mixture. Added one minute to my normal development times, and one teaspoon of instant coffee. Forgive me if you´ve seen these in another thread already.


A slight moon and thick fog makes for interesting lighting. 2 minutes metered and exposed:

Moonlight: The pier by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Same conditions, but lesser moon. Pure guesstimate metering, 20 minute exposure.

Moonlight: Abandoned house by Eirik0304, on Flickr

No moon, 2 minute exposure:

Darkness at the edge of town: House by the sea by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Midday fog:

Fog forrest by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 03-17-2011   #54
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Now up to three rolls of 120 in the same soup, and it works. Developed in succession, adding 1 minute to the timing for each film.

Flexaret Va, TMAX100 in Caffenol-C-M @16+1min. Epson scan @2400dpi, 16b/greyscale

+1 minute development as this was the second roll through the same batch of Caffenol.


Church door knocker by Eirik0304, on Flickr


A hint of Spring by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Zeiss Ikonta 523/16 w/Novar.

Acros 100 EI 100, Caffenol-C-M 12+2min @ 20C

+2 minutes development as this was the third roll through the same batch of Caffenol.


Totten II by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Dereliction: Old mooring by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 04-12-2011   #55
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These were developed in juice where each of the components were diluted 4 months ago. When mixing prior to developing, the developer didn´t attain the right colour, the right smell (normally awful), but it worked none the less.


River in spring by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Kicking Horse, BC by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Headless soldier by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 04-29-2011   #56
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Cheap Chinese emulsion? No problem. Read here for more info: GP3 in Caffenol-C-M (RS)


Hard Rock Cafe by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Grand Hotel by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 05-06-2011   #57
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HP5+? No problem either. EI400, Caffenol-C-H (RSA), 13min @ 20C


Sande bay by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 05-06-2011   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timor View Post
Hi guys ! I need a help. I mean HELP ! I live in Toronto, Canada, a place devoid of washing soda I guess, cause I can't get it. Nowhere. Also no pharmacist is interested in getting for me a pure vitamin C, for them I am nuts. And I just want to try caffenol by myself. Love the tonality. Please, someone help me.
Sold in harware stores here for cleaning drains.!
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Old 05-06-2011   #59
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A developer can also be made from Paracetamol tablets!!!
http://shadecamerahack.blogspot.com/...fixer-for.html
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Old 07-06-2011   #60
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Stand or semi stand in Caffenol? Oh yeah. In fact it works very well indeed. Rather like Rodinal the compensational characteristics of Caffenol are even more distinct than with regular agitated development.

I have not done much 135 film since I started using film again. Used to large 6x6 to 6x17 negatives and the lovely results these may give you, I thought I'd try to give the smaller format a fighting chance to prove itself against its bigger brother. For that I brought out low pH Caffenol, the C-L version championed by Reinhold over on the Caffenol.blogspot.com

C-C-L mixed by the book:
16g/l Sodium carbonate
10g/l Ascorbic acid
40g/l Instant coffee
1.25g/l Potassium Bromide

5 minute tempered presoak. Semi stand @20C for 70 minutes. 12 inversions initially, 2 inversions at the 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 minute markers. Let stand for the duration.

Pictures taken from a TMX test roll through the Royal 35-M, EI100 - no filter.

Henrik the crane by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Depot by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Another film I thought might benefit from stand development is the now defunct Rollei Retro 400 (this time in 120). Its reputedly rather grainy, so I thought I´d see what C-C-L could do. EI400

Same recipe and method, but this time for only 58 minutes @ 21C


L&M: Smoking Kills! by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Corn Silo by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 07-12-2011   #61
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I may have found the ASA 400 film for use in Caffenol. Delta 400 proved to be very smooth and fine grained when stand developed in low pH Caffenol. It shone especially when conditions were contrasty.

Pushed one stop. My estimate is that this works fine for contrasty conditions, but for grey and hazy conditions it should be exposed at box speed.

C-C-L mixed accordingly:
16g/l Sodium carbonate
10g/l Ascorbic acid
40g/l Instant coffee
1.25g/l Potassium Bromide

5 minute tempered presoak. Semi stand @20C for 60 minutes. 12 inversions initially, 2 inversions at the 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 minute markers. Let stand for the duration.


Moss Docks by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 07-12-2011   #62
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Nice Results Eirik. Ive been trying caffenol on my 35mm, i need some bromide to further experiment. Thanks for sharing
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Old 08-02-2011   #63
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Here's some 35mm HP5+ sort of at 1600, Caffenol-C-L semi-stand, 75 minutes:



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Old 08-08-2011   #64
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I just saw this thread now, but i was "i"ng long time ago on Caffenol, so i asked friends who are working on labs equipments sales and they are alchemists to provide me with the chemicals, so they brought me the NaCO3 and Ascorbic Acid [all crystals] and i will buy the coffee, they didn't find PB but i don't care, they may find it but i told them never mind, in fact i found it online and i may order it later, but once i get the chemicals soon [i told them i will take it when they will bring a better scale than what i can find markets] all together with coffee then i will give that a try.
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Old 08-09-2011   #65
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This is most interesting and thanks to all who have shared their findings about Caffenol. I see that the emphasis is on negatives for scanning and the images here are exceptional. Has anyone tried developing in caffenol and printing the resulting negs in the darkroom on conventional papers?

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Old 08-09-2011   #66
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I've done some printing, all with caffenol developed film. I've only done a few prints with film developed in something else, so I can't really compare it - but it seems to work great. I've got some rolls of 400 film (TMax and Tri-X) that was developed without the potassium bromide and those negs are a bit hard to work with, but far from impossible.

Some scanned prints: (from a cheap scanner)

TMax 400:




Lucky 100: (cheap and bad film...)
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Old 08-09-2011   #67
John Roberts
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I've done some printing, all with caffenol developed film. I've only done a few prints with film developed in something else, so I can't really compare it - but it seems to work great. I've got some rolls of 400 film (TMax and Tri-X) that was developed without the potassium bromide and those negs are a bit hard to work with, but far from impossible.

Some scanned prints: (from a cheap scanner)

TMax 400:




Lucky 100: (cheap and bad film...)
These look pretty good to me, may certainly be worth a try.
Thanks for posting.
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Old 08-09-2011   #68
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Old 08-09-2011   #69
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Fruktansvärt vackert Pontus!

I too hope to be able to wet print sometime during the winter, it will be interesting to compare the results to the scans.
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Old 08-10-2011   #70
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Tack så mycket

Right now I'm out of paper, but I can't wait to get back into the darkroom...
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Old 08-31-2011   #71
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ERA 100, now an extinct emulsion, cheap and cheerful? Not too bad really. These were developed in Caffenol-C-M for 13:30 minutes @ 20C/68F. Camera used was the Royal 35-M with 2.8 Tominor, exposed at box speed, no filter.


House, outhouse, doghouse by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Lysjøen, take 2 by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Self portrait with white umbrella by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Bragernes torv by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 09-02-2011   #72
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Last in the line of different films in Caffenol so far is Efke KB100


Spearhead by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Father and daughter by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 11-06-2011   #73
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Agfa APX in Caffenol-C-H

Amsterdam in September by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Amsterdam in September #2 by Eirik0304, on Flickr

The latter of the two suffers from film curl when scanning. Hence the softness.
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Old 01-17-2012   #74
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Legacy Pro 100 (135) - a.k.a. Acros. Very nice in Caffenol-C-M 12minutes @ 20C

At night and in the fog

Out of this world by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Winter morning sun

The long way home by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Winter midday overcast

Heddal stave church by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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Old 02-08-2012   #75
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Stunning shots Eirik. I just began shooting film this fall and soon afterwards learned to develop my own film using caffenol. I still have so much to learn, but your shots are inspiring. I've seen some of them before on Flickr. Thanks for sharing and posting your experiments. I'll be experimenting mostly with HP5+ because I can get it cheaper than anything else now. I imagine Caffenol C-L will be best.
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Old 02-08-2012   #76
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My favorite from this series. Stunning !!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ezzie View Post
Legacy Pro 100 (135) - a.k.a. Acros. Very nice in Caffenol-C-M 12minutes @ 20C

At night and in the fog
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Old 02-08-2012   #77
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Stunning shots Eirik. I just began shooting film this fall and soon afterwards learned to develop my own film using caffenol. I still have so much to learn, but your shots are inspiring. I've seen some of them before on Flickr. Thanks for sharing and posting your experiments. I'll be experimenting mostly with HP5+ because I can get it cheaper than anything else now. I imagine Caffenol C-L will be best.
Hi Chris

HP5+ is a very nice film, and works well in Caffenol. With respects to Caffenol-C-L, as you say it will most likely yield the best results, but it is also the most fickle of the solutions. You need to be painfully exact in measuring it up, not to mention you have to be 100% sure the ingredients are pure. Commercial soda (sodium carbonate) products can contain a lot of water, up to 50% and you wouldn't know (if the packaging doesn't state the purity). Vitamin C in tablet form will not work well with Caffenol-C-L for the aforementioned reasons, you would need powdered ascorbic acid for that (and I recommend it for all versions really). Instant coffee however is more or less the same no matter what. The cheaper and more cheerful the better.

In short, I would recommend you try out Caffenol-C-H first - its much more robust to any inaccuracies. Mix it according to Reinhold (imagesfrugales on flickr, and Caffenol.blogspot.com owner) recipe, and use 1.2g/l of Potassium Bromide (KBr). Expose film at EI 400 (box speed) and 800 (underexpose one stop), one frame of each for each scene. Then develop in said mix for 13 minutes at 20C/68F. Agitate 12-15 inversions initially (take 2 seconds to invert tank and back - not too quickly in other words), which takes up the first minute. Then invert 3 times every top of the minute. A couple good knocks to the base after each cycle to let loose any bubbles sticking to the emulsion. I use a water stop bath (tempered to 20C too), fill and empty 6 times in one minute should do it. Then fix as pr manufaturer's recommendations. When dry, make a note of which of the 400 vs 800 EI frames works best. Adjust your exposure, or your development times according to your taste.

A note on amount of developer. In a Patterson tank I use 350ml for a 35ml film. No less. Reason being coffee will froth. it forms a thin layer at the top of the solution in the tank. If not enough developer you get one edge of the film unevenly developed. For 120 films I use 600ml in the same tank.

Good luck, and feel free to send me a PM or two if you do get stuck.
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Old 02-08-2012   #78
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My favorite from this series. Stunning !!
Thank you Gabor. I got lucky with this one, I've walked across this plaza several times every weekday for ten years, and only ever seen it like this once. Pays to carry a camera at all times.
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Old 02-08-2012   #79
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I've stopped using a restrainer (KBr) for all my films. Also have stopped using Caffenol-C-L as I never got very good results with it (the reason being probably the fact that I don't have a pH meter). I now develop everything in Caffenol-C-M (which is the same as Caffenol-C-H, just without restrainer), according to Reinhold's recipe and get very good results. Have not used commercial developers (aside from C41 process obviously!) for well over a year now.

Films that I've found that work very well with Caffenol-C-M:

HP5+
Ultrafine Extreme 400 (which I very much think is rebadged HP5+)
APX100
Fomapan 200
Fomapan 400

And not:

Kentmere 400 / RPX 400.

TMY is a so-so, only one to exhibit somewhat heavy fogging, need to test still, but have not shot any for a while.

I get about a stop (or slightly more) over box speed by developing 20 minutes at 20 degrees, 30 second initial agitation and two agitations every two minutes. Results can be seen in my flickr stream.

ps. I have a google docs spreadsheet of my results, which I can share with anyone interested. PM me if you're interested.
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Old 02-09-2012   #80
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Good news Jani. Potassium bromide is not impossible to get hold of, but certainly more difficult than the other ingredients. I found that Neopan 400 didn't need a restrainer either (by mistake).

A bit of base fog is not so much of a problem, at least not if you plan on scanning only. The main problem with lack of a restrainer can be uneven development. Depends on the film though, especially with C-C-L, and how much bromide is released from the emulsion, and how.
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