My film developing times

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-28-2010

I've put up a page on my website where I've posted all of my tested film developing times with the EI I use and times for normal and N-1 (reduced contrast) developing for the three developers I use (Tmax, Rodinal, and D-76) and the various films that I have tested. I get asked a lot what times I use and how I develop to get the quality that I get, so I decided to post it up for everyone to see and use. N-Joy!

http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com/te...developing.php

snausages · 03-28-2010

Very generous of you Chris.

I can vouch that Chris' development recipes yield terrific results.

Shac · 03-28-2010

Chris - Thank you. Very useful to help me zero in on mine
David

gb hill · 03-28-2010

Chris, your b&w work is incredible! Thank you for this!

charjohncarter · 03-28-2010

Yes, thanks, I haven't looked at your site yet, but as soon as I finish this stupid post, I will.

helenhill · 03-28-2010

its now 'BOOKMARKED'....Thanx

Cheers- h

jpa66 · 03-28-2010

Hey man - thanks a lot. Your insights and experience on development has always been appreciated by me. Thanks for posting that stuff.

charjohncarter · 03-28-2010

I looked at the one developer that I use and the two (2) films that I also use. My times are a little bit longer but not a great variation from yours, thanks again.

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by charjohncarter

I looked at the one developer that I use and the two (2) films that I also use. My times are a little bit longer but not a great variation from yours, thanks again.

Carter, are you scanning your film or printing in the darkroom? Those times are based on scanning in my Nikon LS-8000 but the negs I'm getting look very similar to my older negs that I developed back when I had a darkroom to print. Small time differences aren't that big of deal, your exact time will depend on what type of enlarger you have, what papers you print on, and what scanner and scanner software you use if you scan like I do.

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-28-2010

I'm glad I could help everyone. I'm going to add to it some more later with some examples done with the different combos and my opinions on what films I like best on each developer.

robklurfield · 03-28-2010

thanks for the link and the charts. great website, btw.

maggieo · 03-28-2010

Cool beans, Chris!! Thanks!

charjohncarter · 03-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto

Carter, are you scanning your film or printing in the darkroom? Those times are based on scanning in my Nikon LS-8000 but the negs I'm getting look very similar to my older negs that I developed back when I had a darkroom to print. Small time differences aren't that big of deal, your exact time will depend on what type of enlarger you have, what papers you print on, and what scanner and scanner software you use if you scan like I do.

Neither, I copy my negatives with my own copying device.

Juan Valdenebro · 03-28-2010

Hi Chris, your recommended time (last week) of 8.5 minutes at 20ºC for TMax100 under direct sun in Rodinal 1+50 was really close to my finding of 11 minutes at 18ºC... Thanks for a list of times I will trust any time...

Cheers,

Juan

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juan Valdenebro

Hi Chris, your recommended time (last week) of 8.5 minutes at 20ºC for TMax100 under direct sun in Rodinal 1+50 was really close to my finding of 11 minutes at 18ºC... Thanks for a list of times I will trust any time...

Cheers,

Juan

Did the 8.5 minutes work for you? I told you that from memory and when I checked my motes, it should have been 8 minutes, which I have correct on my site now. 30 seconds probably won't be a huge difference though.

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by charjohncarter

Neither, I copy my negatives with my own copying device.

Interesting system! Do negs that print nicely in the darkroom look good shot with your system straight from the camera (after inverting) or do they need a lot of contrast added, like my film scans always do?

raytoei@gmail.com · 03-28-2010

Chris, thanks ! I save a copy in pdf format. I hope you continue to update it, both in the film development time and the scanning portion. raytoei

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-28-2010

I just added the scanning page, which needs a lot more work. And I had forgotten to put the D-76 time for Neopan 1600, so its added now.

Juan Valdenebro · 03-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto

Did the 8.5 minutes work for you? I told you that from memory and when I checked my motes, it should have been 8 minutes, which I have correct on my site now. 30 seconds probably won't be a huge difference though.

Although I didn't try any developing time at 20ºC (I use 18ºC with Rodinal always) my best contact prints were from scenes exposed at ISO25 incident with yellow filter and developed for 11 minutes at 18ºC. I guess that's very close to your time...

And you were right: tone of TMax100 in Rodinal is fantastic! Now that I have seen how both 100 and 400 TMax films behave under harsh and soft lights, I guess I won't try any other film for long... I just hope Kodak keeps making them for many years, so I can shoot them and enjoy them for the rest of their lifespan... After comparing, for me TMax is as good as it gets!

Cheers,

Juan

sig · 03-29-2010

Thanks, I will try this

batterytypehah! · 03-29-2010

Many, many thanks, Chris. This is exceptionally generous. I think all of us would understand if you had kept this info a trade secret.

charjohncarter, that is one slick setup. I like the alpaca (?) figurine watching over it all.

charjohncarter · 03-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto

Interesting system! Do negs that print nicely in the darkroom look good shot with your system straight from the camera (after inverting) or do they need a lot of contrast added, like my film scans always do?

I adjust the shutter speed and F stop by looking at the histogram, and then it is usually just a convert and some levels. I hardly ever use curves. This old negative was a great print in 1971, and I recently did it over from the negative. This is the negative done with the digital copier:

Chriscrawfordphoto · 03-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by charjohncarter

I adjust the shutter speed and F stop by looking at the histogram, and then it is usually just a convert and some levels. I hardly ever use curves. This old negative was a great print in 1971, and I recently did it over from the negative. This is the negative done with the digital copier:

That looks very nice. The scanner I have produces very low-contrast results that need heavy curves adjustments to make them look good.

bmasonoh · 03-29-2010

This is very generous of you Chris. For a noob like me this type of info is worth its weight in gold. Thanks!

jan normandale · 03-29-2010

Chris, great spread sheet! I'm wondering if you have any jpgs of Tmax done in Tmax Developer and Tmax in Rodinal for comparisons

Slightly OT... what are your thoughts on HC110 if you have used it