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SLRs - the unRF For those of you who must talk about SLRs, if only to confirm they are not RF.

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Old 02-03-2017   #3561
skopar steve
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Surfing before the Storm


OM-1n + Zuiko 21mm 3.5 MC + Ilford Pan F Plus
Wonderful image Shab!
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Old 02-13-2017   #3562
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Hello. I have and using two OM2 cameras and few beautiful lenses but spot metering and brighter meter reading in viewfinder of OM4 sounds like it would be very helpful to me (n low light situations I cannot see meter needle in my OM2). But I have no any expirience with it so if someone have it would be great to hear how exactly functions spot metering in OM4 and is it complicated to use?
I had OM1 and now OM2 and these cameras are joy to use especially with beautiful 50 1.4, 24 2.8 and 85 f2.0
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Old 02-15-2017   #3563
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Hi. The OM4 meters the same as the OM2, average, unless you push the spot meter button. The spot you choose in your picture will be exposed as middle grey (in black and white terms), so if you choose to spot meter someone's face in a backlit situation, the face will appear well-exposed, while overexposing the surrounding area in the picture. This is a basic explanation of spot metering.
By the way, if you are buying an OM4 try and find out if it has an upgraded circuit ( the battery-check beep doesn't time out after 30 seconds), otherwise you will be buying a lot of batteries.
The newer model OM4T(i) doesn't have this problem.
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Old 02-15-2017   #3564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adresaba View Post
Hello. I have and using two OM2 cameras and few beautiful lenses but spot metering and brighter meter reading in viewfinder of OM4 sounds like it would be very helpful to me...
Another (cheaper) option is an OM-2S (or OM-2SP, same thing). Despite the 2 in the name, it is a later camera that uses the OM4 chassis but with a simplified spot light meter. The OM-4 has a mutil-spot mode that lets you trigger it multiple times (this has advantages in complete lighting situations). The OM-2S is just a regular spot (works just as Jajong described it).

Also, just like the 4 (or 3, which is identical to the 4 except that it uses a mechanical shutter instead of electronically timed) is that if you leave it in Auto mode, it'll do scene averaging just like your OM-2. If you want scene averaging but with full manual, just half press the shutter in Auto mode and it will read out the light value in the view finder, then you switch to manual mode. It's very simple and quick - obviously I'm a big fan.

I don't know if all the 2S or SP models got the circuit upgrade, but I think they did (someone correct me). Mine is pretty good on batteries; no camera that uses SR44 batteries is great, they just don't hold that much electricity. On the plus side you can buy energizer "357/303" batteries in 5 packs off amazon for the price of a single SR44 at my local pharmacy, and they take up no room in a camera bag so there's no reason not to have plenty of spares with you.
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Old 02-15-2017   #3565
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Thank you very much guys, this is exactly kind of information ive been looking for.I am familiar with spot metering on digi cameras but wanted to know how it works on OM4. Thing is I have offered OM4 body and winder for great price but I am undecided because I allready have enough OM2 bodys but,....spot, 3200 iso and illuminated meter needle would be very handy to have on OM so....
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Old 02-15-2017   #3566
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Make sure its a good price the last two om4s I bought only cost me 40.
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Old 02-15-2017   #3567
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This one costs about 40 with winder 2 and condition is excellent
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Old 02-16-2017   #3568
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This one costs about 40 with winder 2 and condition is excellent
Sounds good, have you tried to see if it has the upgraded power whatever fitted? even if it doesn't its still a good buy!
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Old 02-16-2017   #3569
David Hughes
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Hi,

The OM-4 spot metering can do a clever trick; if you think the wife/girlfriend's face is more important than the background then you can take 2 spot readings on her face and one on a typical bit of background and it will average them out for you with - obviously - twice as much emphasis on her face. It will take and hold and average up to eight readings.

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Old 02-18-2017   #3570
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David Hughes that sounds interesting. I did not tested it to see if it has the upgraded power but I had very little time so I drove for a half hour to a guy who is selling this camera and then he told me that suddenly it wont fire the shutter allthou he said before that it is in perfect condition! Grrrrrr
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Old 02-19-2017   #3571
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Hmmm, don't blame me if this fails, but my immediate thought was that the battery was dead and so the shutter can't be fired. I've risked it now and then and offered scrap prices for "dud" cameras. (The alternative is to carry a set of batteries for the things and test them properly. And pay the full price!)

But, as I said, don't blame me...

Regards, David
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Old 02-19-2017   #3572
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The 'battery check' should tell you if the battery is dead or not. If the check indicates that the battery is dead and the shutter fires on the 'red 60' setting (i.e. the all mechanical 1/60sec shutter speed that doesn't need batteries) then I would be 100% confident the problem was dead batteries.
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Old 02-19-2017   #3573
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Batteries dying very quickly is the big issue with the early OM-4 because of some fault with the printed circuit. I would think it highly likely that what happened is that the batteries have drained in this instance but, as mentioned above, you can check whether the shutter is working by putting the shutter speed ring in the M60 or B position and trying it. In the longer term, the solution is to either take the batteries out when you aren't using the camera or leave the shutter speed ring in the B position.
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Old 02-19-2017   #3574
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Thing is You cannot move the shutter ring to B or 60 and batteries are new. You cant press shutter on camera but when you press one on winderit sounds Ok but curtain does not move . Anyway seller will take it to repair man . I did not bought it.
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Old 02-19-2017   #3575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adresaba View Post
Thing is You cannot move the shutter ring to B or 60 and batteries are new. You cant press shutter on camera but when you press one on winderit sounds Ok but curtain does not move . Anyway seller will take it to repair man . I did not bought it.
I think you have to press a small button to move it to the red speeds. Also, I once put in a 'new' battery, that had been on the shelf for too long, and the shutter got stuck.
These cameras need good batteries!






.... or get a OM1 instead
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Old 02-19-2017   #3576
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Uh i didnt know that I am used to om2 and om1 I will wait for the guy that selling it to hand it over to repairman and then maybe I will buy it if everything will be ok. After I research a little about om4, and you helped me with your suggestions and explanations, now I think I will get one anyhow
p.s. excuse me for my bad grammar and everything else my English became little rusty
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3577
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The OM-1 with the black sheep of the Zuiko family - the 35 f/2.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3578
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Originally Posted by p.giannakis View Post


The OM-1 with the black sheep of the Zuiko family - the 35 f/2.
In what way? I have all of the F/2.0 lenses and I find them to all be exceptional.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3579
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In what way? I have all of the F/2.0 lenses and I find them to all be exceptional.
I only have this f/2 lens and i also find it to be very good but if you search on the internet you will see that the 35f/2 has somehow a bad reputation.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3580
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I'm sure this has been mentioned in all these posts but I'll put it up again -- The Nikon eyepiece diopters work with the OM1 and OM2 series of cameras - not sure about the 3 and 4. They are called DK 20 now (used to be called for FG/EM) and I believe you have to adjust your correction by a diopter (but it's on the Nikon website). Also you can use the DK22 adapter and then the round diopter for the F3. Big help for eyeglass wearers - you can see the whole frame. You do have to slide them up a little when you open the camera back as the interfere.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3581
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Originally Posted by p.giannakis View Post
I only have this f/2 lens and i also find it to be very good but if you search on the internet you will see that the 35f/2 has somehow a bad reputation.
I've seen the same comments, but I also notice that quite a few of them are being originated by people using them as adapted lenses on digital. I find mine to be great, on film!
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3582
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Originally Posted by plummerl View Post
I've seen the same comments, but I also notice that quite a few of them are being originated by people using them as adapted lenses on digital. I find mine to be great, on film!
I agree, this is a much better lens on film (especially high contrast b&w) than on digital. But even on digital, this lens is as sharp as Canon's EF 50 f/1.8.

This is a quick test i did when i bought it.

The picture:





The results:


But as you said - this lens is far better on film than on digital.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #3583
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Originally Posted by p.giannakis View Post
I agree, this is a much better lens on film (especially high contrast b&w) than on digital. But even on digital, this lens is as sharp as Canon's EF 50 f/1.8.

But as you said - this lens is far better on film than on digital.
I have a zuiko 35mm f2. I have taken plenty of sharp pics with it, as well as plenty of none too sharp pics with it. I believe this inconsistency is due to focusing errors. For some reason, the 35 f2 doesn't snap into focus as well as most of its Zuiko brethren. This is particularly true with the 2-4 and 2-13 focusing screens.

The truth is that a lens' real world picture taking ability turns on more than its optical testing results. How easy is it to focus? How easy is it to hold steady? These qualities are more important as a practical matter than how a lens tests (because the theoretically sharpest lens in the world won't yield sharp photos if misfocused or shaken) but are hard to accurately generalize about based on weight or aperture, etc. For example, I have trouble holding a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 version 1 steady on my OM bodies, but am much steadier with a Series 1 70-210 version 3 (which is lghter) and with a Tamron SP 80-200 f2.8 (which is heavier). Likewise, I somehow find the Zuiko 35 f2 the least snappy focusing of all of the Zuiko f2.0 series of lenses I own -- including the 21, 24, 28, 35, 40, 50 macro, 90 macro and 100. Not that the 35 is hard to focus outdoors, but it doesn't snap into focus that well for me indoors or in dimmer lighting.
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