Nikon Waist-level Viewfinder SLR's

jkrumsick · 08-08-2012

Hey guys and gals. I am addicted to shooting from the hip (w/ both my rangefinder and slr). I have yet to use a waist level viewfinder. But I have been looking at the Nikon F2, F3 and F4 as viewfinder alternatives as I have some lenses I could put on them.

Does anyone have experience with these cameras and the DW viewfinders? I know that the viewing screen is pretty small (unlike the medium format viewfinders). Is it useable from the waist?

Todd.Hanz · 08-08-2012

I use a Nikon F with WLF, in order to achieve accurate focus you need to bring the camera to your eye which really slows things down. But...you could prefocus or use the hyper focal technique to focus then just glance down into the WLF to compose. The WLF is pretty small but is doable.

Todd

nikon_sam · 08-08-2012

What Todd said...
I have a WLF on an F4...use the magnifier to focus first then you can shoot from the hip if that's what you like to do...if you have young eyes you should be able to see the scene on the screen...although a small image you can tell what's going on...many times while sitting I'll focus on an area then bring the camera just above my knees and watch from there...it works and most people don't know what you're doing...

jkrumsick · 08-08-2012

Thanks for the feedback. I can see how the focusing wouldn't be possible from the waist but the composition would be. I think I am better at framing than zone focusing, but then, having one out of the two is better than none :-).

nikon_sam · 08-08-2012

The only problem I have with using any camera with a WLF is that I find that the screen gets dirtier quicker than when using a normal prism...the screen is pretty much out there and any dust will and can find it's way on to it...

Bobbo · 08-08-2012

Just remember a) it gets dirty, b) it's tiny, c) it's hard to focus, d) it's backwards and e) WLF are kind of pricey for what they are. To get over a and e, just pop your prism off and use the "built-in" finder in an F, F2 and F3 (F4 and F5 need a head to meter I think, but the F3 not only works, but meters, without).

I owned a DW-3 for an F3 at one point. It (the viewfinder) saw little use, but it did it's job. I prefer eye-level myself, unless going with a bigger format with an appropriately-bigger focusing screen.

In fact, unless you have a ton of Nikkors or you can't do 120 for some reason, I would go with a Rolleicord or some medium format SLR with a waistlevel finder option. I think you might like that better. If you have to get a 35mm, I'd say Nikon will have the best support, lowest prices and the most fun accessories (over, say, a Minolta XK or Pentax LX... a Canon New F-1 would be close to the Nikon, though)

Now if it's a "fear" thing, you could always just "nut up" and shoot with a camera to your eye

. I admit, there is some fear to walking down the street shooting at people. It just takes practice (I have a bad case of social awkwardness... a couple of years ago I was terrified to even talk to people on the phone, and today I knocked on the door of a house where a guy's stepson shot him the day before). You would honestly be surprised where a smile and a "I'm supposed to be here" persona will get you... trust me on that one

.

But yeah... a $49 meterless F2 and a $49 DW-1 from KEH.com would work for what you want.

Rayt · 08-09-2012

I shot with an F and waist level as my main camera usually with an 85/1.8 when I was much younger. From waist level I could easily nail focus. It takes a lot of practice. I could also guess the light pretty well too at the time without a meter but not anymore. Later tried the same WL technique with the F4 and of course autofocus. Right now if I want to shoot this way I would use my Rolleiflex or Hasselblad.

jkrumsick · 08-09-2012

I hear what you're saying about the 120 mm format. A Rolleicord would be fun but the problems I would run into-

1) 120 is more expensive due to less frames
2) 120 lenses are slower. I would want to make extensive use of my 35mm f1.4. And possibly save up for the 50 1.2.
3) 35mm film is easy to use.

I do shoot with my hassy swc and have shot with the 500 cm so I understand what it is like. I suppose I could overcome the slower lens issue by shooting high ISo or pushing.

I am not afraid of shooting with a camera at my eye (do it all the time to strangers). But having WLV makes me more discreet (subjects don't pose as much).

I also shoot a lot on the subway so WLV makes shooting the sitting subjects easier when I stand. This is especially helpful for close ups.

(wrote a blogpost about it which is coming out today at 12 noon ET). Www.stillthrill.com

Thanks for letting me know the other options out there! Is there a TLR in 35 mm that anyone suggests?

furcafe · 08-09-2012

In addition to the other considerations posted, the main reason why I don't typically use a WLF on 35mm is the landscape orientation of the format. Kind of hard to do verticals (though easier w/the eyepiece-style DW4-type finders than the old TLR-style WLFs for the F & F2) & a waste of film to constantly crop.

furcafe · 08-09-2012

Not a TLR, but maybe a Yashica T3 if you can work w/AF?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkrumsick

Thanks for letting me know the other options out there! Is there a TLR in 35 mm that anyone suggests?

Sejanus.Aelianus · 08-09-2012

When I had F4s with AF lenses, I found that they worked fine, if I just took the prism off; the screen is so deeply recessed that I could compose in bright sunlight, provided the sun wasn't directly overhead.

E.M · 08-09-2012

I'm not sure , but I think to remember there was a Yashica TLR wihichyou could use with 120 and also with 35 mm film .

sevo · 08-09-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobbo

(F4 and F5 need a head to meter

They'll meter fine in spot mode, that sensor being behind the mirror along with the AF sensor - matrix and weighted metering are functions of the heads, however.

jtm6 · 08-09-2012

You can take off the viewfinder off of an F3 and look at the exact same thing you would see with a DW-3. The DW-3 provides shielding from light and damage, and a flip-up magnification screen so you can focus if you bring it up to eye level.

Here is a picture of an F3 without a viewfinder. I'd link the picture directly but it isn't mine and I'm not sure if that is ok here.

Nokton48 · 08-09-2012

When I was using the Nikon F2 for Architectural exteriors and interiors, I generally used the High Magnification finder. This worked just great for me.

Recently I discovered the Minolta XK, and bought the High Magnification finder for that. And it works every bit as well on the XK as the F2 finder ever did. About identically, really.

I'm really a fan of High Magnification finders.