Which SLR allows consistent handheld steady and slow shutterspeed ?

[raytoei@gmail.com]

hi,

i was intrigued by Jonathan Leder who shoots with the Canon Pellix, the images in Jacque Magazine by him were shot with available light.

I am curious, what/which SLR allows consistent shutter speeds below 1/30 ? I tried the pellix with the 55/f1.2 today and shot mainly at 1/15. The images were okay but slight handshake was visible in 50% of the images.

Some of the helpful suggestion from friends are:
* monopod
* using the camera strap to tension for stability
* using the elbow for stability

Some other brands were suggested as well.

Any suggestions ?

thanks!

raytoei

[Vickko]

Try the Leica R6.2 or R9.

[StevenJohn]

I like a fairly heavy body with a light shutter trigger. I've had good luck with my F100 shooting a 50mm down to 1/15th. Good form is important. Keep those elbows tight to your sides and breathe out slowly until you are ready to inhale and squeeze off a shot.

[digitalintrigue]

This is pretty difficult. Maybe use a wider angle lens. I doubt any SLR is better than any other in this regard, it's probably mostly up to the shooter's ability to become a mannequin.

[raytoei@gmail.com]

thanks for the replies, does a compact slr mean better (lower) hh speed ?

for example, pentax mx or lx ?

thanks for sharing.

[StevenJohn]

I find it doesn't. A lighter, more compact body has less mass. Force=Mass*Acceleration. The lighter the body, the less force is required to get it accelerating, and therefore moving. I've got a Minolta Himatic 7s that is fairly light with a heavy shutter button (opposite of the F100). I can consistently hold the Nikon at lower shutter speeds.

[Vickko]

I'd think a lighter camera is worse for slow speed hand held. I'd think a heavier camera, with more inertia, is better for slow speed hand held. And, technique would be of paramount importance.

[raytoei@gmail.com]

i tried the pellix because the beam-splitter technology meant that there was no mirror slap. I think i should frame the question for this thread as: "Are there SLRs which are suited for low-light photography"

[StevenJohn]

I was thinking about that too. You lose quite a bit of light going through that mirror. That light could be used for shutter speed...

[StevenJohn]

No finder blackout would be nice though.

[digitalintrigue]

Any SLR with a 1.4 wide angle, say 35/1.4

[bidnez]

I recently got an Om-1n in very good shape, feels like the camera shake is minimal. It feels very stable; I believe 1/15th should be possible. BTW; Leaning myself or the camera against a wall or a tree has been helpful more than once.

[photografity]

Originally Posted by Vickko

I'd think a lighter camera is worse for slow speed hand held. I'd think a heavier camera, with more inertia, is better for slow speed hand held. And, technique would be of paramount importance.

Agreed, I used to use a Leicaflex SL2, I could handhold a 60mm @ 1/15.
Today's camera, I find it impossible without any support.

[StevenJohn]

Also, avoid caffeine on an empty stomach.

[Nikon Bob]

Originally Posted by raytoei@gmail.com

i tried the pellix because the beam-splitter technology meant that there was no mirror slap. I think i should frame the question for this thread as: "Are there SLRs which are suited for low-light photography"

I guess you are not concerned with subject motion blur at slow shutter speeds so any DSLR with in camera stabilization or any system that has stabilized lenses available would really help. Failing that a heavy body with a fast wide angle lens and very good technique. I thin k getting "consistent", 90% keeper rate, in any case is difficult.

Bob

[telenous]

The Leicaflexes (SL/SL2) are good in terms of mirror vibration. (Not saying perfect, just good.) It is said the camera was designed to reduce mirror vibration by a mechanism that slowed the mirror just before it hit the top. Body mass helps too (Leicaflexes are quite heavy, so, more inertial). In my experience, with a wide angle lens you can get down to 1/30th, while 1/15th is possible too with proper technique (e.g. holding breath, chest brace). All said, they do not compete with rangefinders because the only way to alleviate completely mirror vibration is to use mirror lock-up (which the SL/SL2 do not have). Sometimes I think I'll get an original Leicaflex which does have a mirror lock-up and use it with an external viewfinder and the 35/2 which I like a lot. You can obviously do something like that with any camera offering mirror lock-up (OM-1s come particularly to mind -- also reputed to be low on mirror vibration).

.

.

[david.elliott]

I love my leicaflex sl2.

Darned heavy but good for handholding down to about 1/60, for me anyway with my 50/2 summicron. I can do the same with the r8 though, so not sure how much the camera has to do with it. Probably going to sell the r8 shortly even though I really like it -- tough decision.

At any rate, I think it is easier to handhold with a heavier camera. With lighter cameras I find that I move the camera slightly as I trip the shutter.

[E.M]

I used a Nikon F2 in the 70-ies and 80-ies and since I started using it with a MD2MB1 motordrive I could handhold it much better due to the heavier body and electronic shutterrelease . It was very comfortable to use with my elbow against my chest and holding breath . Had it as my only camera for 20 years , but don't use it any more .

[Steve M.]

Mirror slap is normally a straw man, as it often occurs a split second after the shutter has fired. You can test your camera if it has MLU by firing off a shot at 1/15 or so on a tripod, then again w/ the mirror locked up. On my Canon FT QL SLR, the shots looked identical.

While some cameras are probably better than others, if you have steady hands and a good place to lean against, you should be able to get good shots at 1/15 on most cameras.

[varjag]

Leica M with Visoflex.

[Phil_F_NM]

Canon EOS 1N-RS. I've used that camera to handhold shots down to a second. It's amazing for action panning. They are pretty inexpensive these days when you can find one. Built like tanks too. Mine was very reliable.

Phil Forrest

[Gumby]

Listen to your friends... and the one who will soon add "tripod" to the recommendations.

[semilog]

Just to add to what others have said, mass helps. But more recent high-end cameras also tend to have more sophisticated counterbalance and damping systems.Modern high-end DSLRs really show this progress.

[Nokton48]

My Minolta SRT's work pretty well at slower exposures; I can do 1/15 or 1/8 in a pinch. Shooting multipleframes, if it is a repeatable event, is a good idea. Relaxing and bracing, of course. Like firing a target rifle.

It's more technique and self-control than choice of camera body.

[Keith]

It's technique and a camera with some mass IMO. I regularly use my D700 at speeds below 1/20 and get acceptable sharpness. I often crouch down and brace the camera on my right knee ... sort of an organic monopod!

Or I'll find something to lean against for bracing.

The mirror black out doesn't bother me ... from the moment I press that shutter I've decided on what I wanted to capture and a moments black out in the finder isn't going to change the end result!