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SLRs - the unRF For those of you who must talk about SLRs, if only to confirm they are not RF.

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Old 10-08-2010   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevo View Post
The entire LCD is the weak point in the F3 ergonomics
In the 1980's I was a Nikon user but I never wanted an F3 because of that unfriendly meter display.

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Old 10-08-2010   #52
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Originally Posted by JSU View Post
After the Nikon FTn, or the various sports finders, how can the DE3 finder be too large for the body?
Oh I definitely prefer eyelevel finders on the F and F2 too

The F3 body seems one size smaller than its predecessors though, so to me the HP finder looks even more lumpy than an FTn or F2AS
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Old 10-08-2010   #53
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I love my F3 (though I only use the DW-3 viewfinder pictured here occasionally, I prefer the HP viewfinder):

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Old 10-08-2010   #54
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Here is my F3/DW-3. [Waist level ]




Cheers [I need a DW-20 for my F4! ]

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Old 10-08-2010   #55
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I recently traded a beat up bronica ETR-C for an f3 with 50 1.8 series E and an md-4. I love it.

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Old 10-08-2010   #56
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I have 3 Nikon F3/Ts and love them - two are fitted with MD4 drives and the third has a black Luigi half-case and fits into a small Artisan bag for portability. I managed to get these as new old stock a few years ago, along with some Ai-S lenses and they have been my main cameras for 35mm work.

I've been playing with an F4S recently, using a Beattie Intenscreen for manual focus with the Ai-S lenses, and that is lovely too, but doesn't quite beat the solid simplicity of the F3.
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Old 10-09-2010   #57
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My bags are packed, I'm ready to go...

... on a leasurly 500 mile 2 day motorcycle trip to see some fall colours. In my tank bag are 2 F3's. I have lots of different cameras to choose from, so that's a tribute to the F3. (My lenses are 20, 28, and 50mm.)
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Old 10-10-2010   #58
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Yes, the F3 is a great camera. I've been using a F3 and F3 HP for something like 20 years, preferring the HP finder. They are practically indestructible and incredibly reliable. If I had to pick the "best" manual slr ever made, this would be it for me. They are widely available on internet and you can pick up a pretty nice one for around $200 or less, have it CLA'd for $100 and "presto" you're set. Now, it is paired with a 105mm f1.8 AIS lens that never leaves the body. Stuff it all in a Domke F-6 and you've got quite the nice setup.

I use Leicas for all the shorter focal lengths, as I prefer rangefinders, have never been impressed with Nikon wide angle faster primes and the Zeiss lenses are just plain huge. But the F3 handles longer lenses much better than the Leicas and the 85/1.4, 105/1.8 and 180/2.8 prime lenses (among many others) produce great images.
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Old 10-10-2010   #59
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I have a 2nd F3 DE, and a WLF for it. However, this 2nd F3 is different from my first in that I can't really use it for test metering, etc. This one sticks to 1/80th pretty in most any mode until film is loaded.

I thought it was broken, but it's always spot on when film is loaded, and some folks said they were like this before a change occurred at some later build date for them.
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Old 10-10-2010   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ampguy View Post
I have a 2nd F3 DE, and a WLF for it. However, this 2nd F3 is different from my first in that I can't really use it for test metering, etc. This one sticks to 1/80th pretty in most any mode until film is loaded.

I thought it was broken, but it's always spot on when film is loaded, and some folks said they were like this before a change occurred at some later build date for them.
Mine does this too. Slightly annoying.
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Old 10-10-2010   #61
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I didn't know that they ever changed the 1/80 behavior on Auto until frame 1. The original purpose was so that you don't have to wait for many, many minutes if you are trying to get to frame 1 with the lens cap on, and the camera in AUTO mode. The F3 is a great night stalker. I've had it time out to 45 minutes on a tripod on AUTO. That could be very frustrating if it didn't have the default 1/80 feature.
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Old 10-10-2010   #62
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Hi Robert

They did, I don't know if the were very early, or very late models.

My first one was great. I could fondle, compare metering in A mode, and play all I wanted without film in it. I miss that.

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I didn't know that they ever changed the 1/80 behavior on Auto until frame 1. The original purpose was so that you don't have to wait for many, many minutes if you are trying to get to frame 1 with the lens cap on, and the camera in AUTO mode. The F3 is a great night stalker. I've had it time out to 45 minutes on a tripod on AUTO. That could be very frustrating if it didn't have the default 1/80 feature.
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Old 10-11-2010   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuelphoto View Post
Now, it is paired with a 105mm f1.8 AIS lens that never leaves the body. Stuff it all in a Domke F-6 and you've got quite the nice setup.

I use Leicas for all the shorter focal lengths, as I prefer rangefinders, have never been impressed with Nikon wide angle faster primes and the Zeiss lenses are just plain huge. But the F3 handles longer lenses much better than the Leicas and the 85/1.4, 105/1.8 and 180/2.8 prime lenses (among many others) produce great images.
+1 on having a 105/1.8 AIS permanently mounted. This lens besides having more speed also has more aperture blades (9 where the 105/2.5 only has 7). The bokeh is extra pretty and the OOF areas extra smooth. Mine is rigged on a F3P with MD-4 and E screen.

BTW also has the 85/1.4 AIS but I sold it because I own a 75 Lux. Also has the 180/2.8. You have good taste. LOL.

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Old 10-11-2010   #64
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As nice as the F3's are, I prefer my F and F2's. Must be an old school thing. IMHO these are the classic Nikons. My favorite is my black F with Ftn head, weighs a ton, clunky and brick like but feels like it will last forever. As far as meters go, the F2AS is great. I always find the paddle and needle meters in my others difficult in low light much like any other needle type. It was the main reason I sold my OM's and lenses.
Can't disagree. The F and F2AS are two savagely overbuilt cameras that are legends.

Retro is good (great) even by today's standards. Interestingly the durability has stood the test of time.

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Old 10-11-2010   #65
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I still have mine and a 45P AIS 2.8, 50 1.4 AIS and 105 2.5 AIS not getting used for a long time

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 10-11-2010   #66
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I used F3T for quite a while but left it in the dry-box in recent years when my R-D1 came. It's a very reliable camera !
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Old 10-12-2010   #67
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You got to Luv the F3.

My fav is the beaten chrome with the Nikkor-P 45/2.8, I think they match even better then the FM3A.

But the F3 with MD-4 imposes some drooling... me think!
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Old 10-12-2010   #68
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Quote:
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I still have mine and a 45P AIS 2.8, 50 1.4 AIS and 105 2.5 AIS not getting used for a long time

[IMG][/IMG]
That is a fantastic kit! Add a 28 AIS and you have it all! I use the 105 Ai on my D700 and its simply one of the best there is.
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Old 10-12-2010   #69
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I wish you guys wouldn't put pics up of all this nice kit. That's how it starts! A little light bulb switches on and before you know it YOU NEED in this case an F3!!!!!!!
I have a few F2's, only one F now and my D700. I still have one M2 and still, I end up bidding on an F3 at the weekend!!! I didn't win it thank goodness, missed out by a tenner. And still I'm thinking I NEED another camera. I'm using my F2as this week for a change of scene.
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Old 10-12-2010   #70
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That's how it starts!
I just caught myself checking KEH for an F3+ 28Ais grrrrr
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Old 10-12-2010   #71
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Part of the reason i'm using my F2as and 28 Ais this week is to try and dim the F3 light bulb!!!!
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Old 10-12-2010   #72
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Resistance is futile!




the F2's.. hmm the F2's....
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Old 10-12-2010   #73
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migtex, that P is the F3 I like, nice
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Old 10-12-2010   #74
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After having read this thread I went Ebay and won an F3HP with MD-4 drive; the guy described as in "good condition". Yeah, right! When it arrived the MD-4 could not be opened at all, since the batteries had been left in it for 3 or 4 years, leaking and corroding their little heads off! I had to pry it open with a screwdriver (not recommended) to remove the batteries. I then cleaned it up as best I could, applying white vinegar to the corroded areas to remove it all. After cleaning the contacts, loading new batteries, I pushe the shutter release button and - Tah Dah! - back in business! Then I had to apply sewing machine oil (quite sparingly, I assure you) to the rewind buttons on the back of the thing, since the application of my screwdriver (again, not recommended) to the things wouldn't make them budge one iota. But now, asfter some cleaning, scrubbing, cussing, and drinking a scotch or two, I seem to have a working F3 to add to my other Nikon arsenal. I'm headed out to shoot a roll or two with it - I'll keep you posted!


Mark

BTW, anyone leaving batteries in unused photo equipment for long periods of time should be flogged!

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Old 10-12-2010   #75
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What is the difference between the two different motor drives, I see with the F3?
There is one motor drive, the size of an aircraft carrier with drive mode selector in front and one more compact (like in medium oil tanker compact) with, what looks like caps for flash sync in front and on the side.

Confused.

The black F3P with additional non HP finder for a more compact package and better focussing of fast glass seems the camera to look after.
Is it common, the shutter release rubber is lost on these?
How sensitive is the additional rubber sealing after all these years - all gone by now?
What is the general premium over a standard F3 HP?
Is the difference of the F3T to the standard F3HP just the body and prism housing material? Whats the premium?

You guys really lured me into looking after the F3 now - a good or bad thing - I don't know.

I find myself not enjoying my FM3a much with the needle meter and tiny finder (hate the meter, taking ages, to figure out in quick situations, much prefer the Leica 2 dot meter of my M6).
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