Bracketing in Medium Format

[bwidjaja]

Many suggests that bracketing is essential in shooting film. But given 120 film in medium format only gives 12 shots in 6x6 and 16 in 6x4.5, do you bracket, or just be more careful with exposure when shooting medium format?

[BillBingham2]

I rarely did in 35 mm and per frame cost is less. I should say I only shot chrome and B&W but never really felt the need for bracketing.

But that is me. While I do not take a lot of time on the exposure, I do a lot of thinking about it.

B2 (;->

[oftheherd]

I personaly don't as a matter of course, in MF or 35mm. I do it when I think there is a need, such as when I want two different exposures to choose from for whatever reason. What I really try to do is use a meter I can trust and use it based on the conditions.

[Juan Valdenebro]

I trust my metering 100% so many years ago I don't bracket in 35mm.

But, when a 120 or 4x5 slide is important, I shoot also at -2/3 and +2/3 because a certain level of shadows or highlights can be very important to be digitally treated.

Cheers,

Juan

[bagdadchild]

An incident light meter is the best way to avoid bracketing.

[bwidjaja]

Thanks everyone, i think this is the best responses I have gotten on this subject. Off to more shooting...

[charjohncarter]

Originally Posted by bagdadchild

An incident light meter is the best way to avoid bracketing.

Right, whatever you use: reflective or incident, get to know your meter and bracketing is out the window (unless you shoot digital).

[Keith]

In medium format I'd only do it if the shot was something that was impossible to recreate ... a particularly spectacular sunset or a shot I'd hiked hours somewhere to take.

Imagine bracketing LF!

[Juan Valdenebro]

Sometimes bracketing makes sense... For example: you're in the studio, where you normally use three or more lights, and where most of the 120 and 4x5 slide film is used... The main light is what you meter incident, but the effect light, and the background light, are aimed in a different direction, So, sometimes it doesn't matter too much if the main light is a bit higher or lower on the final slide, and LOTS of times you end up deciding which slide to scan and process depending on shadows and/or highlights rendition instead of that of the main light...

And even outdoors, light and its measurement change a lot, because of quality and not only quantity... If the sun is a bit lateral you need to expose for more light, or with the sun right behind, some other times for less light because of too harsh light reflection on certain surfaces... For all those reasons bracketing for 1/2 or 2/3 stop both sides is highly recommended for the best possible results. Only with slide film, and only that close to one decided incident metering.

Cheers,

Juan

[Juan Valdenebro]

Originally Posted by Keith

In medium format I'd only do it if the shot was something that was impossible to recreate ... a particularly spectacular sunset or a shot I'd hiked hours somewhere to take.

Imagine bracketing LF!

Bracketing LF is normal. I did it while being a student of Product Photography, and years after that, not long ago, was the common thing at the studio I worked for... And for architecturial work too, because of the precise whites often needed...

Cheers,

Juan

[sjw617]

I bracket when needed. I use a spot meter to get my readings. Bracketing kills me since I get only 4 shots per roll with 120 film in my 617.
Learn your meter and camera to bracket as little as possible but don't be afraid to.

Steve

[Steve M.]

I don't. but probably should on important shots. You need to know the variables. Have your shutter speeds tested (or make a tester from the simple instructions on the internet) and make sure your meter is accurate.

For me, it's more about being familiar w/ the light I'm in as well. Often in the bright New Mexican sun I can't rely on the meter. I've found from trial and error, mostly error, that things can get blown out simply by following the meter. Often it's better to get the camera aimed anywhere but toward the sun or a reflecting building, or simply wait for a later time of day if possible.

It's not really an exact science no matter how much we think it is. Sometimes the shots come out perfect no matter what we do, and other times even the most careful metering gives flat, gray photos.

[Carterofmars]

Any of you guys use the Zone System when metering? I've been reading about it lately again. The master said, " Expose for shadows...". Do any of you do this? Meter shadows then place the scene on a zone and expose accordingly?