yashica 35 lens removal

[shayne]

have just recieved older model 35 that wont cock or trip the shutter. it winds on allright but when you press the shutter button there is only a slight click and the shutter dosent move so i removed the trim ring then the ring that tretains the front lens then removed three screws that hold the aluminium ring with red indicator and am now faced with the next lens cell in a black cone which doesnt have any slots or screws to aid removal does this ring/cone arangement screw out or is there another method of removal im thinking that it could be removed with a rubber pad on a dowel type arrangement. I have dismantled a 35 G before and on that model the compleat lens cell comes away in one unit but this older style 35 the lens seems to come apart in separate pieces. another question while im at it when i press the battery check button on this older 35 the light comes on but if you hold it down for a couple of seconds the light slowly fades away to nothing the battery (4lr44) reads 5.36v on the multimeter any help with these problems would be greatly appreciated. shayne

[shayne]

well iv,e managed to get the rest of the front lens cell out using a plastic bottle cap (27mm id) filed to 45 degrees on the outside and a piece of rubber mat i didnt relise that the first part to come off was actually part of the front cell so i still have a sticking shutter and the fading test light this should keep me busy for a while again thanks in advance for any tips,ideas in advance. shayne

[bmarkmain]

Do you have any pictures of where you are right now on the disassembly. I am working on one too, and need to get to the shutter assembly in order to repair it. I have a thread working with a several closeups, titled "another yashica....".

bmarkmain

[shayne]

g,day bmarkmain i havent taken any shots of disassembly but i have taken it apart down to the shutter assemby and found that the iris has been forced and bent the operating tang and also bent one of the overlapping arms that control the iris which will only open up to 2.8 it feels as if its dragging on something at this point so i need to get at the iris to straighten this bent arm and find what is causing this problem im not overly concerned about taking the compleat lens assembly off but would like to know if this is the right way to go i cant see any way of getting to the iris from the front as there dosent seem to be any screws etc visible in the shutter assembly that would allow access to the blades cheers shayne

[bmarkmain]

Shayne,

I am down to the proximity of the shutter, but I do not see a way to reach the assemble from the front either. I have attached a few photos of my approach, but have tried to contact Matt Denton who has a web site that was useful to me in reaching the point I have. Maybe you could try him. His website is:

http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton

The instruction I used gets you pretty far along, but doesn't address the shutter other than how to get near it. You can see how messed up my shutter assembly is from the attachments.

[shayne]

man that is one messed up shutter it looks like your shutter blades have jumped off their mounting posts. if you remove the three outer screws positioned at 12,4 and 8 oclock on the outer ring, which are brass then remove the three black screws positioned at2,6and 10 oclock you can then remove the outer ring with the red mark on it and also the B auto and flash selector ring watch out for the tiny detent ball that sits under the brass strip on the outer ring at 9 oclock it wont fly out and might stick to the ring otherwise it will just sit in its track then rotate the larger screw that has a flat side on it so that the flat side is pointing straight down then you can remove the scalloped ring (brass) then you can lift off the rest of the capacitor board and switch tracks it wont come forward a great deal but enough to have a look into the shutter mechanism if you need to gain better acces to the shutter you need to disassembl the capacitor board and remove the track board also this only requires removing the 2 screws that hold each board on be careful you dont lose the little white insulating washers on the top screw on the right hand side its not a dificult job but make sure you watch how the wiring is routed especially the black wire which sits on post where those insulating washers live. but this wont get you access to the shutter blades only the shutter mechanism and self timer . i havent had time to have a go at taking the compleat lens barrel / front plate off yet but im guessing this is the way to go to get at the iris/shutter cheers shayne

[shayne]

man that is one messed up shutter it looks like your shutter blades have jumped off their mounting posts. if you remove the three outer screws positioned at 12,4 and 8 oclock on the outer ring, which are brass then remove the three black screws positioned at2,6and 10 oclock you can then remove the outer ring with the red mark on it and also the B auto and flash selector ring watch out for the tiny detent ball that sits under the brass strip on the outer ring at 9 oclock it wont fly out and might stick to the ring otherwise it will just sit in its track then rotate the larger screw that has a flat side on it so that the flat side is pointing straight down then you can remove the scalloped ring (brass) then you can lift off the rest of the capacitor board and switch tracks it wont come forward a great deal but enough to have a look into the shutter mechanism if you need to gain better acces to the shutter you need to disassembl the capacitor board and remove the track board also this only requires removing the 2 screws that hold each board on be careful you dont lose the little white insulating washers on the top screw on the right hand side its not a dificult job but make sure you watch how the wiring is routed especially the black wire which sits on post where those insulating washers live. but this wont get you access to the shutter blades only the shutter mechanism and self timer . i havent had time to have a go at taking the compleat lens barrel / front plate off yet but im guessing this is the way to go to get at the iris/shutter cheers shayne ps i nearly forgot on the aperture control ring onits right hand side there is a tang that goes into a slot that opens and closes the iris you will see it when you take that ring off its easy to put back into place upon reassembly it dosent fall out

[cralx2000]

this page may help.

http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/p...lectro_inside/
http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/Y35G/

[shayne]

thank you both , there is quite a good amount of useful information there i will definately have a go at taking the front off the old girl tomorrow, hopefully its not beyond repair ive managed to get the shutter working it was just gummed up my only problem now is the aperature dosent fully open and the afore mentioned test light slowly dimming. not being too conversant with electronics i could live with no test light so if i can get the aperature working properly i would be a happy chappy cheers shayne

[bmarkmain]

Thanks Shayne,
I'll have a go at it. Greyhoundman also quoted a procedure to remove the entire lens assembly, which I did to replace the POD. I don't think he was indicating that you could get to the shutter from the rear, but if he reads this, then he may clarify the need for removal of the lens barrel assembly in reference to the shutter problem, yours and mine. I'll take some shots when I am disassembling the problem, and upload, it may be helpful to someone else.
bmarkmain

Originally Posted by shayne

man that is one messed up shutter it looks like your shutter blades have jumped off their mounting posts. if you remove the three outer screws positioned at 12,4 and 8 oclock on the outer ring, which are brass then remove the three black screws positioned at2,6and 10 oclock you can then remove the outer ring with the red mark on it and also the B auto and flash selector ring watch out for the tiny detent ball that sits under the brass strip on the outer ring at 9 oclock it wont fly out and might stick to the ring otherwise it will just sit in its track then rotate the larger screw that has a flat side on it so that the flat side is pointing straight down then you can remove the scalloped ring (brass) then you can lift off the rest of the capacitor board and switch tracks it wont come forward a great deal but enough to have a look into the shutter mechanism if you need to gain better acces to the shutter you need to disassembl the capacitor board and remove the track board also this only requires removing the 2 screws that hold each board on be careful you dont lose the little white insulating washers on the top screw on the right hand side its not a dificult job but make sure you watch how the wiring is routed especially the black wire which sits on post where those insulating washers live. but this wont get you access to the shutter blades only the shutter mechanism and self timer . i havent had time to have a go at taking the compleat lens barrel / front plate off yet but im guessing this is the way to go to get at the iris/shutter cheers shayne

[bmarkmain]

Thanks greyhoundman, and Shayne. It is the shutter blades, as you can see from the attachments. The appature is now working, not before. Two small chrome screws fell out of the shutter assembly, and the assembly is holding on by something, I know not what, whether it is another screw or more involved than that. It seems that if I can get the assembly off then the loose shutter blades could be re-assembled, however, it looks like some wires will have to be un-soldered in order to completely free the shutter assembly. Is that how you see it?
bmarkmain

Originally Posted by greyhoundman

bmarkmain,
If you are only wanting to reach the shutter.
It is reached from the front. If you are trying to reach the aperture blades, you have to remove the lens plate to reach the nut that holds the whole shutter/aperture assembly together.

[bmarkmain]

Greyhoundman,
I have attached shots from the rear plate. Mine looks a little different from your attachment pic 1. Pic 2 shows me where the 4 screws that fell out of the front came from I believe. I got the rear lens element out and the two hold down, or locking brackets, for the large nut, but the large nut when turned turns the focus dial as well, and talk about wires! That is as far as I have gotten. It seems to me that if the shutter blades are forward of the appature, looking out the barrel, then why can't the shutter blades be reached from the front?

Originally Posted by greyhoundman

If you are wanting to reach the blades. You have to go in from the back.

Dismount the lens plate from the camera.
Remove the rear element
Then remove the retaining nut, shown in pic 1
Then you can access the screws, pic 2, that hold the aperture plate on.

I've done it without removing the wiring. But it is a royal PITA.

[bmarkmain]

Makes sense that going thru the back end is proper. I'm going to let it sit for a while, and plan my next move. It is a learning camera, and I do want to see how the shutter/appature are put together, so a loss may not be too tough to suffer. Camera may not have been designed originally to renovate parts deep inside. Repairs years ago were probably by replacement of whole units rather than individual parts. We will see.
bmarkmain

Originally Posted by greyhoundman

A tip.

If you decide to remove the wiring. Take tons of digital pictures from every angle.
Close up and personal.
You won't be able to put markers on the wires. There won't be room to get the harness through the holes.